Add quick_measure_model abstraction to simplify tests

[codecov[bot]]

Codecov Report

Attention: Patch coverage is 94.33962% with 3 lines in your changes missing coverage. Please review.

Project coverage is 92.61%. Comparing base (b95b6a2) to head (5ffbe34). Report is 3 commits behind head on main.

Files with missing lines	Patch %	Lines
lenskit/lenskit/metrics/bulk.py	72.72%	3 Missing :warning:

Additional details and impacted files

```diff @@ Coverage Diff @@ ## main #518 +/- ## ========================================== + Coverage 92.58% 92.61% +0.03% ========================================== Files 94 95 +1 Lines 6362 6415 +53 ========================================== + Hits 5890 5941 +51 - Misses 472 474 +2 ```

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