perf: optimize `StateTable::write_chunk`

[kwannoel]

1. We should check vis before serializing chunks, so we can use the right iteration (use iterate rows / use rows_with_holes / consider serializing columns).
2. Value chunk should be treated the same way as key chunks. If we skip key datum serialization because of viz, we should do so for values as well.
3. After serializing chunks, we can immediately insert them, rather than check vis again.
4. Ensure vnode_and_pks and the subsequent code is statically branched on USE_WATERMARK_CACHE.

We need better benchmarks for write_chunk:

• [x] different vis: 0%, 1%, 10%, ~25%~, 50%. https://github.com/risingwavelabs/risingwave/pull/11415
• [x] different op, just insert and deletes will do for now. https://github.com/risingwavelabs/risingwave/pull/11415
• [x] More columns / row. #11499

[kwannoel]

So far PR #11455 shows that there is mix of improvement and regression, hence I'm hesistant to merge it. Welcome any comments.

[github-actions[bot]]

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