Could this also be used with temp sensors for non TRV?

[Alevale]

This isn't much of an issue but actually a doubt about the project.

I see that you are using a stepper motor that goes on top of a TRV, so that the valve is smart... But could you replace the valve alltogether by adding a temperature sensor to the setup and actually having this just turn a normal valve instead of a thermostatic one?

If you think that is feasable (to use a normal valve as a base instead of a TVR) please let me know.

I would really appreciate it if you could get in contact with me, as I am trying to change all the normal valves in my house to be "smart thermostatic ones" but don't want to have to put TVR's first and then add the smart ones, since it would cost over 100 euros per radiator

Thank you very much

PS: Yes, I know that git shouldn't be used for this, but I really wanted to contact you first

[AJStubbsy]

Hi Alejandro, I think it could be achieved but you would need geared stepper motors to produce enough torque to turn a valve. This would make the device pretty big.

I'm surprised you estimate 100 euros per radiator. The TRV valves I bought were £7 each and at the time I made the sRV's the whole additional part was about £5 (the price has dramatically increased since then). I have found that the stepper motors I used are starting to become under powered and one of my radiators doesn't always close, it's probably the bottom part of the TRV is becoming more difficult to move. To combat this I am going to try a different solution and I have ordered 2 of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001339536265.html?_randl_currency=GBP&_randl_shipto=GB&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=12555183349&albag=122168288289&trgt=743612850874&crea=en1005001339536265&netw=u&device=c&albpg=743612850874&albpd=en1005001339536265&gclid=CjwKCAiA24SPBhB0EiwAjBgkhriSyj_qHB5YbHAEtf70LX2rEApMFoA3Lf8_am7_3nlph6YNxCUQKhoCsgkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=66ce8b5fc6f743eeb401bc99fb4b6710-1642149939445-07722-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=66ce8b5fc6f743eeb401bc99fb4b6710-1642149939445-07722-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=13dc632bba6d490bb955fb779da24a56

Apparently these fit on a TRV thread and so I'm going to use a Sonoff to power this, which is normally open.

Good luck with your project, it would be great to here how you get on!

[Alevale]

Thank you for the feedback, I am indeed adding some gearing to the design and also some way to grab to it. The issue with the TRV valves isn't that much the hardware but the installation at home. The valve is ~20 bucks more or less, but the issue is that in The Netherlands (where I live) there are no workers available, and the ones that are around cost like 80 bucks an hour + materials + take 3 months to come... So all in all, it makes the installation of this really expensive and I feel like I'm better off just by making a 3D desing around the manual valve, which also adds way more value to people that can't afford a TRV or that have manual valves at home from their landlord I'll create a git project with it all (fusion 360 files + ESP board code and such)... let's see how it unfolds the goal is to make it all as efficient as possible

[AJStubbsy]

It sounds a great project and a good reason to achieve it. I don't know if our valves are different but the ones originally fitted to my radiators were extremely difficult to open/close, so I can imagine that a geared system that can achieve what you want will have much wider applications than just turning a radiator valve.

If you ever did decide to change to TRV's though, I can tell you they are extremely easy to fit. I have a closed pressure system, so it was a case of turning off the boiler, so the water-pump will not activate, bleeding the radiators in various rooms until the pressure in the system is released. At that point you close off the inlet valve to the radiator and start to undo the valve where you want to fit the TRV. Water will start to leak from that valve, which you catch in a container and have plenty of towels for spillage. At some point there will be enough suction in the radiator that, although there is still water in there, it will stop pouring out. Once the water is being held back by suction, you can quickly replace the valve and then reconnect. For my system, it is then a case of re-pressurising the water by opening a tap at the expansion tank and then bleeding the radiators again and repeat until the pressure is back where it should be.

Obviously an online tutorial for your specific system is best to follow to make sure the safety critical steps are covered

Hopefully your solution will be viable and the information above is not needed, especially because your use case of people living in rented accommodation where they cannot change the valves is a really good point, but I thought I would include it, in case someone else stumbles across this.

Once again very best of luck with your project and if you could come back and post a link to your project, I would be very grateful. If the components I have on order do not work, I might be able to adapt your geared solution to increase the power of my existing design. :D

[Alevale]

I do agree very much with what you said, the thing is that on the field and mainly in old houses things are usually trickier than they appear in paper.

For example my house (1959) has no inlet valve, which means that you have to kindaa empty the whole system... and well, that's quite some time and also money, and I wouldn't do it because the risk of "ducking it up" is too great. If you have a good floor or if you have some stuff around or difficult to access spot you need also to make room/adapt...

Ideally it should be as easy as getting the correct manual valve fitting shapes and a motor that works well, and you should be off... And that is what I'm trying to do :)

Main issue with gearing right now is that they are bulky because we have to be limited to the definition of the machine in the X/Y axis which is kindaa crappy and completely unable to make gears of small teeth (modulus) 😝
🤔 Maybe I could print smaller teeth in the Z axis, but that would mean adding supports or maybe add a smaller nozzle 🤔

I would love if you could take ideas of my project ^^

I'll post a link as soon as I have it, and let's hope we do make houses more efficient with this.

Also, I'll be adding a "ventilator/fan" module to it, so you can also print some supports to ventilators and use the same power supply to both actuate the valve, and when the heater is at the right temp blow air through it :)