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Armchair-Heavy-Industries / Xol-Toolhead

Xol Toolhead is the evolution of 'Mantis Xol 2'. Aimed at modularity and quality of life improvements for installation and serviceability. We have left the mantis carriage behind, and thus are now just Xol sans Mantis. Don't worry, it's still a bit ugly. We wouldn't fix that.
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Xol HE Mount - NF-Crazy_fanHS.stl feedback #23

Closed YesterdaysCoffee closed 6 months ago

YesterdaysCoffee commented 7 months ago

All these mods I've done on my copy. 1) HS holes for hot-end fan could be 4-6mm deeper, otherwise plastic gets back filled into heat set, deeper holes will also allow for 20mm screws to be pulled snug.

2) The posts for the topmost fan mounts (when sitting on the build plate): This 'wing' snaps easily, due to a smaller layer area at this point. A small support web has been added, this web needs to be much larger. On my copy I will widen the web in to the HE fan platform and out a good 10mm. Perhaps out to flush with the part fan.

3) The bottom most HS post (oriented on the printer) would benefit by adding webbing to close the gap between main gap and horizontal HS socket.

DW-Tas commented 7 months ago

Hi @YesterdaysCoffee, would you mind adding some screenshots to assist with your descriptions?

YesterdaysCoffee commented 7 months ago
NF crazy fan mount modifications A NF crazy fan mount modifications B
YesterdaysCoffee commented 7 months ago

I am not suggesting the wire channel be moved or the wire splitter mounts be added.

DW-Tas commented 7 months ago
  1. Hole depth: These holes are already extended to accept 20mm screws:
    image

  2. Top "wings" breaking: That is standard geometry on all Xol HE mounts and it doesn't have issues with "snapping easily". If it is breaking there for you, I recommend to print hotter and slower to improve layer adhesion.

  3. Bottom heatset holes: This is also standard geometry for Xol parts, but as the NF-crazy is a lower hotend than most, I will look to see if this can be done without increasing the toolhead weight. From a quick look, this may be possible without changing print perimeter length and may provide some bonus stability. Thanks for the idea :)