Have tou tested?

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Maybe I'm wrong , but, I've downloaded your zip and take a look inside BTT config.ini. You have changed NC value of runout sensor, but (and here I don't understand if I have an old one version of GD32 porting) when I've tried, two week ago, to change NC nothing happened, seems we need to change logical of runout (few linea above). Could you confirming this changing real working? File is AT-SW-fill-lev.zip P.S.: what meaning leveling ok? Cause when I've tried the noozle it didn't stop fine and ittrying to "hole" bed!

[Dave811]

I am writing here now, my bed level is working, but I double check in about 2h!

Indeed the config from the TFT needs to be addressed, because you found an issue and my file name isn't scrolling. For the rest I need my PC to look into it.

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Ok...fine. I wait for news, I hope good news! P.S.: I think, but is only my opinion, if you share a guide "how to" for installing new fw for TFT and Marlin, a lot of rockies could try to test all 🤣 For example M502, M500 and so on...

[Dave811]

So a few questions did you run abl from the tft? and does the tft give you a warning that the runout sensor was triggered?

[Dave811]

Another question, did you level your bed with a piece of paper?

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Yrs with paper. In my tests it seemed that the BL touch was not working properly. But if I poked him with a finger he would stop. I never understood what the problem was, so after two different Marlins I went back to the stock situation and for now I have only changed the firmware of the TFT.

[Dave811]

So what I did:

1. flash both firmware (tft and marlin)
2. goto: menu -> movement -> leveling
3. do all corners with the paper test until all feel the same
4. goto: menu -> bed level -> p offset
5. do the paper test, so that it feels like the leveling -> click on next and on save
6. goto: menu -> bed level -> abl -> start -> after finish -> save
7. make sure bl: on is there and not bl: off
8. under mesh edit you can see your mesh
9. do a firstlayer print and fine tune the baby steps while its printing, be ready to increase the steps if needed, so that it didn't scratch the bed
10. I use this for the first layer https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
11. after the baby stepping do not do the p offset again! Because the baby stepping is done while printing and therefor the right number
12. If you fear, have the finger on the reset button or the power button, so that you can stop the print

[Dave811]

So I thing you problem is the z offset

[Dave811]

I also uploaded a new firmware with a few new settings that I got from prezis thingiverse

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Now I'm outside home. When I'll come back tonight I'll try..

[Dave811]

also on my end the run out sensor is working, if the filament runs out, I get an immediate reaction on the display and a few moments later it stops the print

[Dave811]

a small tip, write down your numbers, before you flash, such as the z offset in the baby stepping menu, so after a reflash you can just enter the values before (but make a first layer test befor printing something big, so "only" the bottom left get a scratch if something is not working, the link I sent starts at the bottom left. also Include on the website your slicer start gcode to do a prime line)

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I'll doing a M503 with Pronterface, so I'll have all EEPROM settings. After I'll installing both firmwares. Only a question,when I've trying, last time, I've saw that the 2 right corners (looking bed in front) was strictly to the bed border right. Are You adjusted this issue?

[Dave811]

@Ricky1966 What do you mean with the 2 right corners? English isn't my first language, so perhabs this is why I dont understand it

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Me too. Last time I've tried firmware, the noozle was placed near the right border (only in manual leveling), and probe was outside bed...I'm explained?

[Dave811]

Do you have a Sidewinder or a Genius Pro? I don' have the problem, did the printer home before? then it shouldnt happen

Or did you install any mods that places the BL-Touch elsewhere? (Because I had the issue before, now I am again on the stock SW)

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Sorry, I've not said, X2 No, only mod are the Z shoulders

[Dave811]

Did you test it again? Does it still happen? You can stop it if you use your finger so that the Nozzle dont ram the bed

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I'm on work, tonight 🤣

[Dave811]

Don't worry xD I assumed you where at your printer because you wrote here ^^

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I told ypu all the isaues I've had the 2 times who I've tried

[Dave811]

So to summarize

1. filament runout sensor not working
2. on bad leveling the BL-Touch is on the right side not over the bed

[Dave811]

To 1: Can you try later: start a small print without filament in the sensor?

• It should say on start on the display that there is no filament or something similar
• If it says it: --> Stop the print, add a small piece of filament into the sensor, start the print and while its printing pull the small piece out --> the display should mention again that there is not filament, and a bit later the printer should stop

• ---

• If the display says nothing:
• Does the Lamp on the filament sensor is lighting?
• Yes: Green when filament is in there? red when no filament is in there?

To 2:

• Home manually and start a bed level
• and be ready to stop the printer if it does it again

If this isn't working we need to look further into it

[Ricky1966]

https://github.com/Dave811/ATSG/issues/1#issuecomment-1477981261 No the leveling doesn't work because even if I did (not with your Marlin, but with two others) the manual leveling with the card, then when I tried the ABL the noozle banged on the plate even if I lifted it and saved it in EEPROM. The question of the right angles, I told you because in addition to placing the 300x300 plate, you need to adjust the noozle distance from the right edge of the plate.

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 What I tell you are relative to other Marlin, I tell you so you could tey if those issues happen also with ypur Marlin

[Dave811]

#1 (comment) then when I tried the ABL the noozle banged on the plate even if I lifted it and saved it in EEPROM.

So it crashes on the plate on the first abl messure, not only on the right side?

I only build the firmware, and I use the firmware that freakydude uses, and he uses this offsets

define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 27.25, -12.8, -1 }

You can calculate your own offset if you like and check if they match

• So you place a piece of paper on the bed
• Than make a point on the paper
• Than home your printer and move the nozzle to the point
• Note the coordinates down
• move the BL-Touch to the point
• note the coordinates down
• then you substract the x value with the x value and the y value from the y value (I don't know the direction)
• Then you get two numbers. If they are completly off of the "27.25, -12.8" values, we need to communicate more.

So perhabs you can do this to make sure your offsets are the same

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I've not move anything, so I think the NOOZEL_TO_PROBE_OFFSET is the same.... The weird thing was this, if I tried to do the ABL after all the adjustments it would smack the noozle on the platter, but if I put a shim between the platter and the BL Touch (I used a CD) the Z axis would stop, but even giving an M500 it didn't hold the position. This sounded very strange to me.... Only a question, not it's not true the questions are 2, after uoloaded Marlin, I have to do M502 and M500 or not? And with M503 which value could I find from stock Marlin?

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I've noted only now, we are speachen on an issue open by me in your repository and not in GD32 Issue. Ok sorry. What I want to report to you is where mine tests fault with other Marlin, and know if ypu have news about those issues by other users with your compiled Marlin. Because if someone else have same problems, means the interfaceing from TFT and Ruby (firmware side) have some problems

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Tell me how you are installed Marlin and TFT firmware, step by step, perhaps I've jump aome passage.

[Dave811]

• I download the Zip "AT-SW-fil-lev.zip"

• I unpack it

  TFT

• I put the contents from the display folder (7 elements including folders) on my SD card

• I put the SD card into the printer

• If the printer was on I press the reset button next to the display, if off I turn the printer on

• The display flashes itself, after a while I am in the displays menu

  Marlin

• I donwload the "https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stm32cubeprog.html#get-software" STM32Cubeprogrammer

• I install it

• I open it

• I connect the printer to the PC

• Now you need to send M997 to the printer

• The easiest way ist to use the display, but you can use also pronterface or octoprint

• "Menu" --> "Terminal"

• Enter: "M997"

• Then I select from the dropdown "USB" (image 1)

• Then in the STM32Cubeprogrammer I click on the refresh button (image 2)

• Then I click on connect (image 3)

• Then I click on "Download" Button (image 4)

• check the verify programming check box (image 5)

• Then I select with browse the firmware in the marlin folder (the extracted folder from the downloaded zip) (image 6)

• Then I hit "Start Programming" (image 7)

• I wait till I get 2 dialog boxes (image 8)

• Then finally I power off and disconnect the printer

I hope I got everything right

[Dave811]

But I run out of ideas what the problem on your side can be :/

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 After all the sequence above, I have to give a M502 and M500 (I give via PronterFace), right?

[Dave811]

Ah I didn't wrote it: on the display itself is somewhere in the menu a button that resets the EEPROM. But you are right after that you can use these commands

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 First at all Thanks for your kindness and your job. Unlucky I've no much time to spend behind the printer, now, but I hope in the week end to have a bit more, but at a first glance seems the home problem I has had with Z axis is solved. Just a side note, when I has flashed TFT, the screen appeared 180 degrees rotated, and all white with black written...but when I restarted all gone well. For lunch, I hope to testing manual leveling and ABL. If all will gone fine, maybe tonight I will print usual calibration cube. 🤣 P.S.: I think you could add the above instructions in the first page, so the next dummy user like me, won't ask again all from the beginning.😀

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I don't know if you know, but I've started a Telegram group to help install and discuss any TFT and Marlin issues. I would like to set a link to this repository, if you allow me.

[Dave811]

In the other thread, they say the exact same thing with the rotated display. But because its only on update, I guess its fine.

And yea you can add a link to that repository, I want that to be as open as possible, and perhabs add many more boards. Or someone else wants to contribute. But can you wait a couple of days? Then I can add another file with the Instructions, and with some more Fotos.

In the End I want a Github webpage, where you can select your printer and the options you want to have (like the x1 has no bedleveling etc.) and you get the download link from there. Because if I add another display (like the older models from X2) the table in the readme would get to big!

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 I'll wait all the time you need! With Github, I've no experience but if you are interessing, we could use a free host to put all there!

[Dave811]

I think you send the image to early, it still says uploading, so perhabs you need to try it again

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 M710 unknown....

[Dave811]

Thats ok, the display or marlin try to use bed leveling all the time, but since you reset the eeprom (maybe it erase itself on flash I dont know) you dont have a mesh. So after a bed level you won't get this message!

[Dave811]

And the M710 belongs to the fan control, so I need to adjust the tft config again, because it tries to change the fan speed I guess. I look later into it, but it shouldnt make a problem while printing

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 First printing test, faulted! Maybe noozle is too close to bed. Afternoon I'll try again, adjusting a babystep.

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Hi. Second (and third) attempt to printing. Thinwall and calobration cube (still in printing), thinwall very well, .46 (the caliper's precision in +/- .01) I"ve setted the Z offset, et voilà, all gone fine. P.S.: on Telegram, Italian Artillery group, asked me for some guide about installation, so I'm looking for a free hosting site to publishing yet another guide! Multilanguages and as easy as possible (like you had doing for me)! Obviously I give you all access credentials!

[Dave811]

Glad to see that your print is finally working :D

Can you give me the link to the telegram group you mentioned, the issue chat from bigtreetech is sooo long, and it is hard to find?

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 https://t.me/Artillery3DItalia This is the group I've menthioned. https://t.me/Artillery_GD32_TFT_configuration This is mine (for now I'm administrator but if someone else will want to do, will be welcome!

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 You said me English is not your mother's language, so which is? Where do you came from?

[Dave811]

My mother's language is german

[Dave811]

Have a look here: https://dave811.github.io/ATSG/

everything that gets pushed to the gh-pages branch here on github is automatically deployed there

[Ricky1966]

@Dave811 Guten tag Ich verstande wenig Deutch und Ich sprache bischen 😀 Wohin komst Du? Ich bien in Bayern und Beelin und Hambirg gegangen...

[Dave811]

Ich komme aus der nähe von Duisburg. Wo kommst du her?

[Ricky1966]

Ich wurde in Veneto geboren. Nähe Padoa, 30 km nach Venedig. Aber Ich habe eine frau nach südde auf Piedmont (Turin) verheiratet, und heute Ich wohne hier. In der nähe von Ciotto , der in Turin lebt, ungefaheren 100 km. Help3d lebt wo Ich wurde geboren.