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DurandA / reflow946

Bluetooth LE temperature controller for the 946C electronic hot plate
Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
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Support new variant #4

Open Toniob opened 1 year ago

Toniob commented 1 year ago

Hello,

I have received this new version of the 946C : hot plate new version

The PCB look really different : 2023-10-06-12-11-12-046 2023-10-06-12-11-26-298

Do you think we could adapt yours to make it work with this new version ?

2023-10-06-12-13-54-028

Thanks

russkel commented 5 months ago

Did you end up adapting the board? I have one of these on the way.

Toniob commented 5 months ago

Sorry but I didn’t have the skills to do it yet.

russkel commented 5 months ago

All good. I might give it a shot and make the results available.

russkel commented 5 months ago

Do you mind measuring the distances between the centres of the displays and the three buttons? Need to see if the button locations need to be updated.

Toniob commented 5 months ago

signal-2024-06-12-192504_002

Good for you ?

russkel commented 5 months ago

Perfect, thanks. I'll modify the board design to suit these dimensions, and change the power in and heater out connectors to two separate screw terminals. Might be worth crimping those wires with a spade terminal or something.

My hardware should be arriving soon.

russkel commented 5 months ago

The transformer is now part of the PCB, so the power supply for the DC side is not going to work. I might replace it with a AC to DC module and be done with it.

russkel commented 5 months ago

I have been hacking at it.

image

I am hoping @DurandA is willing to give this a look over at some point as I really haven't much experience with AC PCB design.

I was wondering if I should use a 230VAC to 12V DC instead and then add a fan controller..

DurandA commented 5 months ago

Hi @russkel. Thank you for sharing your work, it is very nice to see other people playing with the design.

What power supply module are you using? Some Hi-Link HLK-*? I saw there are some really compact ones. I also saw that the datasheet recommends a MOV and an inductor at the input.

I am hoping @DurandA is willing to give this a look over at some point as I really haven't much experience with AC PCB design.

I am by no means an expert in AC design as this is my only AC board ever. :laughing: I just followed some rules of thumb and recreated the spark gap present in the original board. Looking at your design on the AC side, I would increase trace width to improve thermal dissipation and keep traces as distant as possible from each other.

It would be nice to have a feedback from a real expert to be on the safe side.

I was wondering if I should use a 230VAC to 12V DC instead and then add a fan controller.

Is it to cool the heater surface or the controller board? Normally passive cooling should be OK if you use a 105°C ESP32 variant. I use a 85°C variant without cooling, and I once experienced some constant reboots while heating a large thermal mass (a cheese fondue).

russkel commented 5 months ago

Hi @russkel. Thank you for sharing your work, it is very nice to see other people playing with the design.

Hi @DurandA, my pleasure. Thanks for sharing it in the first place.

What power supply module are you using? Some Hi-Link HLK-*? I saw there are some really compact ones. I also saw that the datasheet recommends a MOV and an inductor at the input.

Yes, it's a HLK-5M03. If you find a better option please let me know. It looks big, but that might be because the board itself isn't that big. I am aware of the those two components, but I wasn't sure how necessary they are. The datasheet mentions it is for certification, not sure what that means exactly. I will have to rejig things a bit to fit them in.

Looking at your design on the AC side, I would increase trace width to improve thermal dissipation and keep traces as distant as possible from each other.

I will try and increase them, but I am getting quite limited in space, and the routing is a bit difficult as both sides are used. I will post some better drawings soon (and push my branch) after I get the heater hardware in my hand and can measure and determine what board holes are required and where.

Is it to cool the heater surface or the controller board? Normally passive cooling should be OK if you use a 105°C ESP32 variant. I use a 85°C variant without cooling, and I once experienced some constant reboots while heating a large thermal mass (a cheese fondue).

It would be to cool the heater surface somehow. I haven't checked where I could mount a slim fan yet. I would also add an additional header for a board fan. I did see your comment on the high temp variant and it got me a little bit concerned, the temp-performance curve of the AC-DC converter also is a bit concerning. The fan headers and parts could be left unpopulated if a fan is not desired, so seemed like an okay idea. The only 'issue' would be the 12V rail for fans. I would have to use a 230VAC to 12V converter instead of a 230VAC to 3.3V, and then add a regulator for the 3.3V rail.

I actually though the fondue was a joke :laughing:, but why not :cheese:.

The final thing I wanted to do was replace the LCD segment display with one of these https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Organic-Light-Emitting-Diode-Display-Screen_HS-HS13L03W2C01_C7465997.html. Similar to what this guy did: image (https://www.e-tinkers.com/2021/07/converting-uyue-preheater-into-a-solder-reflow-hot-plate/) Should I make that in a separate revision as it does remove quite a lot of the original design. The removal of these parts and replacing with modules does simplify the BOM quite considerably which I think is desirable for hobbyist one offs. Although maybe it is moot given this project is for people making PCB, who probably have most of the BOM parts already.

Toniob commented 5 months ago

Great work ! Thank you.

When I checked what was possible, I’ve found those fans : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005736257626.html . I bought one and it’s working great (it’s 5V and PWM, and has a good flow). Maybe you can use a 230 to 5V module, and an AMS1117 or something like that to have your 3.3V ?

russkel commented 5 months ago

Great work ! Thank you.

When I checked what was possible, I’ve found those fans : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005736257626.html . I bought one and it’s working great (it’s 5V and PWM, and has a good flow). Maybe you can use a 230 to 5V module, and an AMS1117 or something like that to have your 3.3V ?

I think 12V fans are more common and therefore are cheaper and have more selection especially from Aliexpress. I found a slim fan that was 25mm tall and it was pretty cheap. Something of similar size to what you linked to would be good for a board fan.

Pegoku commented 4 weeks ago

Hi, how it this new version going? I'd like to buy one of the new model, and want to know if I'll be able to use this mod. Thanks

russkel commented 4 weeks ago

Hi, how it this new version going? I'd like to buy one of the new model, and want to know if I'll be able to use this mod. Thanks

Hi,

It's getting close, but none of the firmware is written nor hardware assembled/tested. I wouldn't expect plug and play any time soon.