This is great. It is very much what I had planned to do to make some of the parts more print friendly. The heatset insert for the case are excellent, and the reduced overhangs in the gimble parts too.
Just a couple of suggestions;
Its good practice for the face that touches the build plate to use chamfers rather than fillets to minimise overhang and cooling issues, even if its only slight. Its generally easier to print a 45 degree slope rather than trying to 'role' the face up to vertical just to eliminate those few layers that have to form a steep overhang
Most refering to the gimble_arm part.
eg
VS
For any parts that may need to be printed with an overhanging counterbore its useful to use counterbore bridging features built into the model so the slicer does not try to print circles in mid air or to eliminate support use.
For example the gimble_stick part
eg
creating small bridges that step up one layer or 0.2mm in height at a time
She slicer shows the sequence for printing
The bore starts round
Four small bridges form the bore into a square profile
The next layer bridges into a hexagon bore
and finally the new narrow circular bore is easy to print without extra support
This is great. It is very much what I had planned to do to make some of the parts more print friendly. The heatset insert for the case are excellent, and the reduced overhangs in the gimble parts too.
Just a couple of suggestions;
Its good practice for the face that touches the build plate to use chamfers rather than fillets to minimise overhang and cooling issues, even if its only slight. Its generally easier to print a 45 degree slope rather than trying to 'role' the face up to vertical just to eliminate those few layers that have to form a steep overhang Most refering to the gimble_arm part. eg
VS
For any parts that may need to be printed with an overhanging counterbore its useful to use counterbore bridging features built into the model so the slicer does not try to print circles in mid air or to eliminate support use. For example the gimble_stick part
eg
creating small bridges that step up one layer or 0.2mm in height at a time
She slicer shows the sequence for printing
The bore starts round
Four small bridges form the bore into a square profile
The next layer bridges into a hexagon bore
and finally the new narrow circular bore is easy to print without extra support
If its of interest this tool for F360 can make counterbore bridges easier: https://github.com/Finn2708/CounterboreBridging