ringerc
commented
2 years ago Also here's a quick note I wrote to people elsewhere on matching compatible power supplies.
Power type must match exactly. AC devices only accept AC supplies. DC devices only accept DC supplies. Mixing them up is likely to let the magic smoke out.
Polarity (DC) must match exactly. Most devices and supplies use centre-positive wiring but someone always has to be different. Check before connecting. If your device doesn't have adequate reverse polarity protection then the smoke will escape. Best tested with a multimeter but you can use an LED with a resistor twisted onto one of the tails as a poor man's polarity checker.
Voltage should match exactly. Some decides are more more tolerant than others. Most tolerate slightly over voltage, but there's a risk of damaging the device, or in rare cases even fire. 6.5V device and 7V supply - almost always fine, but don't blame me if it dies. 6V device and 9v supply might work or might let the magic smoke out, depending mainly on the internal power regulation circuitry of the device. Overheating of the device is also likely. 6V device and 24V supply: expect smoke, burnt plastic smells, and possibly fireworks.
Amperage rating on the power supply must be equal or greater than amperage requirement on the device. It's better that the power supply amperage rating be above the required amperage for the device but not tons above. If you use say a 3A switched mode power supply for a 500mA device the switching duty cycle on the supply will be low and it might produce poor quality power depending on how much output smoothing it does. You may also notice an annoying buzzing noise.
Connector must fit well enough. There is some literal wiggle room here. You just need good contacts. I have been known to shove some alfoil or some thin copper strips around the barrel of the male connector or the pin of the female socket to make it work in a pinch.
Your page seems to have become a reference for people facing issues with Philips' odd power supplies and their refusal to sell supply spare parts.
Given that most people can't make their own PCBs would you be willing to amend to point out that there are also a couple of simple ways suitable for people who barely know which end of a soldering iron is which.
no solder fix
Buy a DC socket with screw terminals like this beastie https://www.jaycar.com.au/2-1mm-dc-socket-with-screw-terminals/p/PA3713 or equivalent barrel jack size for the power adaptor you have available. Cut the plug off the tail of the Philips device. Strip the insulation on the wires back about 3mm then twist each wire tightly (not together!) . Clamp each wire into the screw terminals. Make sure you get the polarity right. No soldering required, just some electrical tape. It's definitely better to tin the ends of the stripped wires but if you just twist them tightly you'll be ok.
usual re-termination method
Cut the nonstandard plug off the device's tail, making careful note of polarity. Solder on new generic electronics store socket.
non-destructive to device - re terminate power brick instead
Don't want to cut up your expensive light? Keep the weird plug on it and cut up a power brick lead instead.
Re-terminate an existing power supply to our a compatible female socket on the tail of the power supply. Buy compatible socket. Cut plug end off compatible power brick. Solder on socket. Wrap copiously in electrical tape.
non destructive: making gender benders without custom PCBs
Buy Philips compatible socket and standard DC socket to fit available adapter.
Then either: