Now have a v2.5 in hand for references

[foreverimagining]

It finally arrived!

Alright, this may be a bit of information overload, but I'd rather provide more than enough starting out and therefore, limit the need for further questions. I broke out my DSLR to get some decent macro photos of the various components, traces, and vias because it really is surprisingly small in person. I have compiled them with smaller references marking approximately where on the board front and back I think the pictures are in order to make review a little easier. I can provide more, if necessary; I just need to know what parts need focusing on.

Let me know if you want any testing done, and I am also tempted/willing to desolder the terminals to get a look at what's underneath them. I'll be doing some soldering, anyways, for this project. I figure I'll leave off installing it for at least a few more days, partially because I don't know if I'm even tall enough to plug the little bugger in.

[mmotley999]

Can confirm the schematic from @thayerfox worked for me for a liftmaster 8500 (which is one of the strange openers labeled as security + 2.0 and have a yellow learn button, but they use the older wireline protocol from the Security + 1.0 openers). It needs 2.5 software so I flashed the original MQTT 2.51 software.

I'm almost certain I have the same model (8500), says Sec 2.0+ and has a yellow button and the sticker says it was made in 2016.

In my case the original schematic, with the 2n7000 MOSFETs and only 3 10k resistors (pulldown on TX and voltage divider on the obstruction side), works perfectly for the past 2-3 weeks using ESPHome 2.5 code. It works consistently for all features including status for motion off the panel, obstruction sensors blocked, light on/off, remote lockout on/off, open/close/status of the door.

[thayerfox]

My PCBs finally arrived and I was able to test them out. Working well so far on my Liftmaster 8550-267 opener. I am using 12V off the battery backup to power the unit.

I also tested out the status and dry contact IO using a basic esphome config to toggle the outputs etc. They appear to function as expected.

[thayerfox]

My PCBs finally arrived and I was able to test them out. Working well so far on my Liftmaster 8550-267 opener. I am using 12V off the battery backup to power the unit. I also tested out the status and dry contact IO using a basic esphome config to toggle the outputs etc. They appear to function as expected.

Oh nice! Any chance you can share the kicad for that?

Sure, https://github.com/thayerfox/rat-ratgdo/tree/full_featured/kicad_files/D1%20Mini%20-%20ESP8266%20-%20Tubez

[Kaldek]

Closing as this is more accurately going to lead to additional Pull Requests rather than being an Issue.

[conradopoole]

Interesting, thanks for that. So that confirms the following schematic then: Its interesting that a 10K series resistance was used for the gate on the two status outputs. The esp8266 gpio doesn't really need that level of current limiting. 100-1K would have made more sense. They used a 1K current limiting resistor for the gate of Q2, though they used a 10K for the gate of Q1 in the v2.5. Perhaps this was to counteract the 12V red control line being unable to draw much current from the GDO. I can't see them wanting to slow down the switching speed.

I'm assuming they are relying on the internal pullups of the esp for Q3 and Q4. I probably would have put a 10K pulldown/up (depending on desired state) on those if it had been me, as the gpio state is indeterminate until the uC boots up and the onboard pullup/downs are enabled.

As for Kaldek's question about how much the 1K R8 is needed.... Connecting the ESP 12mA GPIO directly to drive the AO3400A gate isn't something to lose sleep over, its not going to burn anything and I would have likely omitted it from the design.

@thayerfox Did you verify the orientation of the Dry contact diodes D1, D2, and D3? From the MQTT code seems like some of those pins are defined as inputs but all diodes in your schematic are pointing agains the ESP.

[thayerfox]

Yes, going by the ratgdo wiring diagram, those "inputs" pull to ground to actuate. When the dry contact is open, the esp gpio is pulled high by the internal pull-ups. By grounding the dry contact, it goes low. The diodes are to protect from someone overvolting the esp from miswiring and applying power instead of grounding.