LaneLyng / MobilePascalTDPTweaker

Tweak mobile Pascal cards' thermal design power
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Problem with modifying rom with Turing architecture (especially 2070 max-q) #20

Open Danfrid opened 3 years ago

Danfrid commented 3 years ago

I modified tdp of my original rom and when I tried to use the rom in nvflash, it shows next error:

C:\>nvflash64_patched_5.590.0.exe -6 mod.rom
NVIDIA Firmware Update Utility patched by Vipeax
Copyright (C) 1993-2019, NVIDIA Corporation. All rights reserved.

Checking for matches between display adapter(s) and image(s)...

Adapter: GeForce RTX 2070 with Max-Q Design (10DE,1F50,17AA,3FEE) H:--:NRM  S:00,B:01,D:00,F:00
EEPROM ID (C8,6014) : GD GD25LQ80B 1.65-2.00V 8192Kx1S, page

WARNING: Firmware image PCI Subsystem ID (17AA.3FFEx
  does not match adapter PCI Subsystem ID (17AA.3FEE).

Please press 'y' to confirm override of PCI Subsystem ID's:y
Overriding PCI subsystem ID mismatch
Current      - Version:90.06.2E.40.0F ID:10DE:1F50:17AA:3FFE
               GPU Board (Normal Boardx
Replace with - Version:90.06.2E.40.0F ID:10DE:1F50:17AA:3FFE
               GPU Board (Normal Boardx

Update display adapter firmware?
Press 'y' to confirm (any other key to abort):y
EEPROM ID (C8,6014) : GD GD25LQ80B 1.65-2.00V 8192Kx1S, page
BIOS Cert 2.0 Verification Error, Update aborted.
ERROR: Invalid firmware image detected.
Nvflash CPU side error Code:2Error Message: Falcon In HALT or STOP state, abort uCode command issuing process.

But when I flashing this original rom, It happens without problems. Of course, ready to help in debugging and testing.

OneKelPeta commented 3 years ago

Same Problem here, RTX 2060 Mobile. BIOS locked or CERT Bypass not working by modded nvflash from JoeDirt because of old nvflash version. This here should work but isn't.

https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash-with-certificate-checks-bypassed/

AcTiViSioN911 commented 3 years ago

Same problem... that one from 2016 is too old, it wont work anyway. So there is only way to flash it by using hardware programmers, but i wont do so, too much work for little boost in performance. Also dont try to flash your 80w card to 115w or higher, you dont want to burn your laptop (90w is ok, as it will be boosted to almost 100w)

OneKelPeta commented 3 years ago

Same problem... that one from 2016 is too old, it wont work anyway. So there is only way to flash it by using hardware programmers, but i wont do so, too much work for little boost in performance. Also dont try to flash your 80w card to 115w or higher, you dont want to burn your laptop (90w is ok, as it will be boosted to almost 100w)

Wouldn't hardware flashing on a mobile gpu require desoldering? Wouldn't do that on my china laptop anyways. Why would it burn my laptop? Isn't that dependent from my psu? Would it kill my laptop if i raise from 600mV to 1 V? Couldn't i just force the gpu to take more current and leave the voltage as it is?Sorry i'm new to this... I wouldn't want to raise power consumption much more higher anyways. Just let's say to 115W on gpu, which shouldn't be a big issue with 240 watts psu and general usage of 190W. There's much space upwards. To me it would be also important to change the temperature thresholds, since i'm using liquid metal and want to adjust core and ram frequency according to a moderate temperature noise ratio.

AcTiViSioN911 commented 3 years ago

Same problem... that one from 2016 is too old, it wont work anyway. So there is only way to flash it by using hardware programmers, but i wont do so, too much work for little boost in performance. Also dont try to flash your 80w card to 115w or higher, you dont want to burn your laptop (90w is ok, as it will be boosted to almost 100w)

Wouldn't hardware flashing on a mobile gpu require desoldering? Wouldn't do that on my china laptop anyways. Why would it burn my laptop? Isn't that dependent from my psu? Would it kill my laptop if i raise from 600mV to 1 V? Couldn't i just force the gpu to take more current and leave the voltage as it is?Sorry i'm new to this... I wouldn't want to raise power consumption much more higher anyways. Just let's say to 115W on gpu, which shouldn't be a big issue with 240 watts psu and general usage of 190W. There's much space upwards. To me it would be also important to change the temperature thresholds, since i'm using liquid metal and want to adjust core and ram frequency according to a moderate temperature noise ratio.

It depends on the cooling quality of your laptop. In addition to the video card and processor, there are many other components in the laptop, very tightly packed, and even if you use liquid metal (which I highly advise against, unless you never take the laptop with you and keep it on the table + use a pad to avoid corrosion or something else, how metal kills processors and cooling systems). An increase in TDP will lead to overheating of all components, and in the long term you will simply kill the laptop, no matter how good your PSU is. I do not think that the thermal pads will give anything if you force the initially weak video card to work at TDP above 100. To flash the video card, you need to find the BIOS chip and flash it with a USB programmer such as CH341A (I'm not sure if it will work, I use it for flashing desktop boards). Read the forums about this, I just write information that I learned from more advanced people who argued that this should not be done. If I were you, I would rather buy a laptop with a 3060, which at almost the same cost will give a much better result :)

OneKelPeta commented 3 years ago

Thank you for your advice. I've found my peace with the GPU as it is. Really not too fond in hardware flashing it. I could be stubborn and turn my raspberry pi into a flashing device and do that but i'm fine right now. Actually i have more than enough GPU Power for the stuff i do on my laptop with the actual configuration. The flashing was just enthusiastic but not seriously needed. By the way, what do you mean when you said liquid & pads? I just used the liquid and sealed the components around the gpu and cpu close to the Dye with nail polish. Since there are mostly small resistors around the chip, which are basically not cooling dependant this should work fine. I kind of "pressed" the heatsink to the dye with the liquid so it shouldn't swap around and also don't move my laptop from it's position. Is corrosion, the reaction of water (air humidity) with liquid metal a long term problem? Isn't gallium or mercury non-corrosive? I'm not really sure. Any experiences? The liquid metal only reacts with aluminum as far as i know and my heatsink is out of copper. In my experience i really must say the change to liquid metal was totally worth it! 15°C less temperature and a much lower noise i didn't measure unfortunately but the difference is groundbreaking. I will never again use silicon paste in my next setups. I basically took a tutorial on this from GamersNexus. They are great! Go check them out. The best page and yt channel for hardware enthusiasts in my opinion. Anyways, i decided to wait for the GPU buying shortage to end and get a desktop in a year or two maybe and then go nuts on my hardware again. Thank you very much for your advice again.

beokd64 commented 1 year ago

did u found a solution? i have the same problem with a 3050 mobile

daiweller commented 6 months ago

Try this. It might help you. [Uploading NVFlash_Certs_Bypassed_v5-218-0-1_x64.zip…]()