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MarlinFirmware / Marlin

Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your specific machine.
https://marlinfw.org
GNU General Public License v3.0
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Hotend temperature fluctuates and heating failed system stopped occurs #13515

Closed sriram135 closed 5 years ago

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Description

Hello I have a DIY 3d printer which has E3d v6 hotend.. when I load file and give print in pronterface the printer starts but the hotend temperature never increase it simply fluctuates ( increases and Decreases) and then Error heating failed system stopped comes please help

Steps to Reproduce

  1. I start print
  2. The printer homes itself every axis
  3. And waits for temperature of hotend to increase...

Expected behavior: [What you expect to happen]: The hotend temperature must meet target temp and start the print...

Actual behavior: [What actually happens]: In reality it doesn't happen... Instead the temp reading fluctuates never reached the target temp and heating failed system stopped printer halted occurs...

Additional Information

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

I,

Have you set hotend PID ?

https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

best

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Thanks for reply...No... I haven't set please help me out..😔

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

I my link you have the command to set it.

You can use octoprint, repetier, pronterface to launch the g-code (usb link) or activate the Pid Menu in Marlin to use it with your screen.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Is it required? Or without that is ok Does activating pid autotune solve my problem?

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

I have previously tried uncommenting the pid open loop and everything of that stuff but agian it doesn't work

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

it is essential to have a stable temperature and to have no heating error or safety when the ventilation is active.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Okay it seems I have tried that earlier... Didn't work .. But once again I would like to try that... I will inform you once I do...

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

I,

Don't forgot to save parameters in eeprom after PID set.

I have soo an E3D hotend. My parameters :

// Hypercube E3D

define DEFAULT_Kp 13.90

define DEFAULT_Ki 0.93

define DEFAULT_Kd 51.72

best

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Should I use your kp ki kd .... As I did pid autotune using m303 I got my own results... Kp 12.7 Ki. 0.65 Kd. 57.8 Is this ok or I should use urs?

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

I,

your values are comparable to mine. Have you registered them in Marlin?

best

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

No...I have simply changed the previous default values to newly obtained values by pid autotune.... After doing this also didn't work for me... When I gave print it started heating slowly..i.e fluctuated and when I paused the print the temp started to raise very rapidly... Then when temp reached target(200) I resumed the print... The print started but the temp started falling down and never rose up... Here is the link for the latest pic of configs... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-DfcNebNaxUGWIuEouJILPEWCI4xdcer/view?usp=drivesdk

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

In terminal 👍

M304 P12.7 I0.65 D57.8 M500

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

It is showing unknown command

J-charles-C commented 5 years ago

M301 P12.7 I0.65 D57.8 M500

sorry

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

https://youtu.be/OsBx6u4L83E

See this please... It will give you the better idea of the problem...

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

If you don't mind getting back to basics …

Please ZIP the following files up and then drop them on your reply:

What controller are you using?

Looks like you have a PT100 thermal sensor on the E3D. Is that correct?

Does the hot end heat up?

With the hot end off, does the temperature reported by Pronterface increase when you hold the heater block?

What pin is your extruder fan connected to?

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Thank you for responding... Here are my configs... CONFIGS.zip

I m using Arduino Mega2560 with Ramps 1.4... I m quiet not sure about the temp. sensor i have.... yes the hotend do heat up...(only when i separately heat it i.e setting pla temp in pronterface) Yes with the hotend off when i hold it the temp do increase.... extruder fan is normally connected to two pins on ramps 1.4 i dont know which pins they are but fan works correct.

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

On my system my extruder fan overwhelmed the heater. I could only get to 125C with the fan running at full speed all the time.

BEFORE TURNING ON THE FAN, stick something in the fan to keep the blades from turning. Then turn on the heater and see if the temperature rises. Turn it off before it gets to 100C.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Yep I will try that....

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

From your configuration files it looks like your fan is tied to the D9 pins/connector.

If that's correct then try the following files. The only change I made was to the configuration_adv.h file. Configuration_1-1-9.zip

This should result in the extruder fan turning on at 50C and running at half speed. If it doesn't turn on then you'll need to change line 247 in configuration_adv.h from 128 to 255. All it means is your fan isn't designed to run at anything other than full speed.

I suggest strongly that you switch from Marlin 1.1.9 to Marlin's bugfix_2.0.x. 1.1.9 is not being updated. 2.0.x is the future.

To help with the conversion I'm attaching the 2.0.x config files with your customizations included. I only found a few. Configuration_2-0-x.zip

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Hey here is where I have connected fan... Check this pic... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-GY2gDU0qnWxMr2DTL6-VuBaCNHE0KD8/view?usp=drivesdk

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

I think that's just 12V. Does the fan run as soon as power is applied?

If you are running 12V steppers then move the orange wire to the + terminal on D9 and the white wire to the other terminal on D9. That way you'll have control over the fan via the software. If you have +24V then don't do this. You can damage a 12V fan by running it on 24V.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Yes... As soon as power is on fan starts... I m running 5V stepper motors... Shall I still connect as you told?

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

You weren't kidding about home built. In the picture I saw the piece of wood with a bearng and a rod through the bearing.

How did you acquire this machine?

I added a 3D print head to my CNC machine several years ago. It was low performance back then and it was down more than it was up. I finally realized that I'd spent more on fixes & improvements than it would have cost to buy a low end printer. The Creality Ender 3 would have saved me $$ and I'd have a better printer. Finally put down some $$ on a mid range printer a month ago.

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

5V motors?? There's not a 12V or 24V power supply?

What stepper drivers are you using?

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

@Bob-the-Kuhn look at the above linked video @sriram135 What is your power source,? It is probably overloaded, you need at least 12V and 4A

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

There is just +5V tied to the big power inputs on the RAMPS card?

If that's the case then go ahead and move the fan wires.

That also might explain the heating problem. Unless you have something special the heater expects to see 12V or 24V. If you're running a 12V heater from 5V then it's only seeing (55)/(1212) = 17% of the power it was designed for. It may not get hot enough to melt PLA even without the fan.

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

I am amazed!!!

Do you actually have motors moving? What motors do you have?

Those look like A4988 steppers. They're only rated for 8V and above operation.

If you're anything like me it won't be long before you'll be wanting faster printing and higher quality prints. It's really easy to do 3-5 upgrades at $30 - $50 over the next 6 months. That puts you close to the cost of an Ender 3. Please seriously consider the Ender 3 rather than doing upgrades. The Ender 3 has reasonable speed and produces prints that are as good as come from printers 3 times the cost.

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

I agree on the power supply.

I've only seen 30W and 40W heaters. Even if you did find a 5V heater chances are excellent that you'll burn up the USB cable before you melted any plastic.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Hey nice suggestions @kAdonis and @Bob-the-kuhn.... I have built this printer at my house and the motors move just fine!! I m using A4988 drivers... The motors get a little hot after sometime.... But for smaller prints they are absolutely fine... The machine works perfectly as CNC the only problem is with hotend...😶 @Bob-the-kuhn I built this printer because I wanted to... I had no idea all this would happen... Please I need your help in at least making it print.. Now I don't want to spend any money on buying a new one... Please help me with this... Its a kind request... I use 12V 5A power supply...

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

I'll stick with you as long as you're working on it.

Wow - another person that started with a CNC machine and decided to add 3D print capabilities. We must be both geniuses. My wife has a rather different opinion of what I've built and how I've been spending my time. ☹️

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

OK - 12V power supply. That's good. That explains a lot.

I would suggest going to a better power cord. I'm surprised that it hasn't already burned up.

Yes, it's OK to move the fan to the D9 connector.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Oh sir u are older than me I m a student studying engineering.... I daily sit infront of the printer dealing with problem and get up without solving it... Sir what shall I do now? Shall I connect fan to D9 port? Or shall I update the marlin and flash marlin 2.0 bugfix? Sry sir I didn't see your comment as I was busy in typing... Ok I will move fan to D9...

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

In the video, you could see the red led near the Hotend connector on the RAMPS flashing, indicating that the output is active, but only for a split second. It should be permanently on until the hotend temperature is nearly reached and then start pulsing. I think your 12V power supply is switching off, because it is overloaded. Your hotend might have a 24V heater cartridge or is shorted, could you measure the resistance? And where is this beeping and clicking sound coming from?

Bob-the-Kuhn commented 5 years ago

You'll need some cooling on the hot end or you'll melt plastic too far up the borden tube. I ruined a heatsink trying to drill out a melted tube.

Let's stick with 1.1.9 and play with the fan to see if it can be throttled back far enough that you can melt plastic.

For a month or so I had a piece of cardboard partially covering my fan. I eventually ordered one that could be throttled back.

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

@kAdonis the beeping and clicking sound is maybe from fan turning on and off ... Its a E3D V6 all metal hotend Wade extruder type... I think it maybe 12V heater cartridge....hmm I don't have multimeter right now to measure the resistance...😁

@Bob-the-kuhn throttle back means slowing it down or reversing the fan direction?

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

the beeping and clicking sound is maybe from fan turning on and off

If you didn't change your connection yet, the fan is connected directly to 12V from your power supply, therefore it should run all the time the power supply is on. For testing you could disconnect the heater from RAMPS and try to heat, the fan should stay on and the red led should light up (until heating failed error, of course) If that works, we know its a problem with heater or power supply, if not we have to look further

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Now I connected it to D9 and saw for first time the when I gave print the temp rose up to max 230 and kept stabilizaling it didn't resume the print at all... Then I disconnected and reconnected to pronterface then again I saw the beeping sound and clicking sound... And it gave thermal runaway error...

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Now the red led is on only when temp is above 50 Celsius that too at half speed... As per Bob-the-kuhn

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

What did you connect to D9, the fan or the heater?

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

The fan..

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

are you using Bob-the-Kuhn's Configuration_1-1-9.zip?

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Yes

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

There are two leds on RAMPS for D9 and D10, D9 should blink over 50 deg, thats fine Try now to disconnect the Heater from D10, let the printer cool down below 100deg and try to heat watch led 10, it should be on and no clicking and beeping

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Should I heat it without the heater connected?

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

yes just a test

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Yes it remained on i.e it started heating correctly... I.e no clicking and beeping

kAdonis commented 5 years ago

That means software is working You have either a faulty heater, a 24v heater- you need a multimeter to verify or your power supply is not able to deliver enough current

From your picture I think your hotend is probably a clone, not a genuine E3d Genuine E3d hotends need thermistor 5, but i have seen clones that need thermistor 11 Sorry, I have to leave now, good luck with further troubleshooting

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

Oh okay thank you very much for spending your valuable time in trying to solve my problem...

sriram135 commented 5 years ago

@Bob-the-kuhn how do I know what kind of E3d I have whether it's clone or genuine... I purchased it for 800 INR..