MarlinFirmware / Marlin

Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your specific machine.
https://marlinfw.org
GNU General Public License v3.0
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Testers NEEDED #2214

Closed boelle closed 8 years ago

boelle commented 9 years ago

We are in the process of getting the issues list down to 0, or as close we can.

For this we need a lot of people, with as much different machine setups as we can, that are willing to load the latest development and report back any faults, the goal is not to do features but just to test for faults.

Test object: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:525888

Testers so far:

@MagoKimbra - one Prusa I3 with Ramps 1.4 and 4 extruder and autobed level with servo & one Kossel mini with ramps 1.4.

@a4jp-com - Scoovo X9H

@darkjavi - PrusaI3 with megatronics V2 & coreXY printer with ramps1.4

@fmalpartida - H-Bot mechanics (with auto level) and AT90USB1286 controller

@gregrebholz - Rumba on RigidBot

@avluis - MakerFarm Prusa i3v 12" - RAMBo w/heated bed & dual extrusion (Dual Hexagon set-up for > 300C), ABL (servo+micro switch), LCD + SD (RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Display).

@vandarin - Phoenix with RAMBo, 1 extruder, heated bed, switch touch probe

@Grogyan - RAMPS 1.2 derivative with on board MAX6675 & test bed electronics is RAMPS 1.4 with a RepRap discount full graphic display, Max6675

@thawkins - Scratch built machine with autoleveling inductive probe, ramps, 330x200 bed, based on zentoolworks cnc chassis, dual jhead hotend, qubd thermistors. Ballscrews. Reprap discount Full graphic display. Heatbed. & Scratch built machine with autoleveling servo and microswitch, ramps, 210x210 bed, jonbot, printed chassis. Single ubis hotend, qubd thermistors. Gt2 belts. Reprap discount 20x4 display. Heatbed.

@arno-millenaar - Rumba with external DM422C drivers (will add the extra delay in the stepper code) LCD + SD (RepRapDiscount Smart Controller) Bed Auto-Leveling Bulldog XL Extruders with E3D v6 hotends (not sure this is relevant :) ) setup for > 300C Bed 500W with temperature reach of 185C (or more not tested) Thermistor for Bed and Thermocouples (AD597) for the hotends

@Lukelectro - I have a Mendel90 (Melzi electronics), gt2 belts and modified (low power, run a 24V hotbed on 12V) hotbed, otherwise standard)

@pacaj2am - Rebelix with Ramps 1.4 and Heated Bet.

@JoshyuNL - MendelMax 1.5 custom, Rambo 1.3, Heated bed + dual extruder, Filament Diameter Sensor

@alhirzel - modified MTU MOST delta printer on Sanguinololu 1.3a

@thinkyhead - Prusa i3 with Mega2560, RAMPS 1.4, Gadgets3D (HD44780-based) 20x4 LCD. & Custom Deltabot with a Brainwave board.

@Booli CreatrHS

@CONSULitAS Vellemann K8200

@PxT Printrbot Simple Metal, Revision D board

@ProjectEnder Rostock, RAMPS 1.4, 1 Extruder, J-Head HotEnd, Nichrome Wire Heated Bed, RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Display Smart, and Filament Diameter Sensor

@clefranc Prusa i3 EiNSTeiN Variant, RAMPS 1.4, Dual Extruder, J-Head Hotend, Heated Bed, RRD Fan Extender, Filament Diameter Sensor, RepRapDiscount Smart LCD Controller or RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller

Boots Industries BI V2.5 (Delta), RUMBA, Dual Bowden Extruder, Pico Hotend, 500°C Thermistor, Heated Bed, RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller

@boelle Mendel90 Sturdy version. OMC Board w/DSM Drivers

@Natealus Modified Rostock Max V2, 280 mm circular diameter X 360mm height, E3D Kraken 4 nozzle hotend, M3 screw-in thermistors, water pump for Kraken, 4 Airtripper V3 BSP Extruders slightly modified, Onyx 120C Heated Bed, borosilicate glass print surface, Azteeg X3 Pro Printer Controller, servo z-probe, and Viki 2 Graphical LCD.

@Sniffle 12" Makerfarm Prusa i3V, Rambo Electronics, bed auto-leveling with servo and switch, RepRap Discount full graphics Display, E3DV6 Dual extruder

@shampine1 Three printers, all using Printrboard rev D with Panelolu2: Emaker Huxley, Solidoodle 2, and Solidoodle 3.

@Nandox7 bq Prusa i3 Hephestos with Ramps 1.4, 1 extruder, capacitative sensor Z probe, REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER, and REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER.

thawkins commented 9 years ago

What tools did you use to compile and upload to the printrboad, did you use platformio?

On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 6:57 AM giliammc notifications@github.com wrote:

@boelle https://github.com/boelle @thinkyhead https://github.com/thinkyhead i have marlin dev working perfectly on a modified printrbot simple 2014 with a printrboard rev D and a ABL servo

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136212923 .

shampine1 commented 9 years ago

I use the DFU bootloader and FLIP. Here's my crib sheet for DFU-fu:

1.You will need a USBtinyISP or similar ICSP http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/ Mine is avrisp2,not USBtinyISP. 2.Download WinAVR http://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/ 3.Install AVR dev tools http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-win.html 4.Obtain a compiled DFUbootloader http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=548 5.Installing A Bootloader reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard 6.Remove the BOOT jumper from the Printrboard. Press the Reset button 7.Connect the 6 pin programming cable to the Printrboard’s ICSP header. \ Red wire is next to the SD card slot!!!** 8.Connect your programmer’s USB cable. 9.Run the following avrdude commands, avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0x9B:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U flash:w:BootloaderCDC.hex:i 10.Replace jumper on the Printrboard. Press Reset again.

Re-flashing the printerboard with DFU: Install the BOOT jumper (for Rev D,E & F boards) Press and release the Reset button. The AT90USB's bootloader will appear as

a new USB device the first time you boot into the bootloader. Allow Windows

to install the USB driver and note the new COM port number.

DFU BOOTLOADER Open Atmel's FLIP software. Select the target device: AT90USB1286. Select Communication medium as USB.

Click Open. Compile firmware within Arduino. You will need to copy and paste the

compiled .HEX file into the HID application directory. The HEX file is saved in the temp folder, C:\users{currentuser}\appdata

\temp\build1234567890\Firmware_Name_Here.cpp.hex Open compiled HEX file within the FLIP software. Make sure the Erase, Blank Check, Program, and Verify checkboxes are

checked. Click the Run button Remove the BOOT jumper on the board (for Rev D, E & F boards) Hit the reset button

thawkins commented 9 years ago

I would be interested if you can make this work under platformio, i currently dont have a windows machine.

See, platformio.org

There are a set of platformio config files in the root of the marlindev folder. And there is already a printrboard target in the platformio target. It would automate most of what you have outlined here, for installing the toolchains. You do however need to add python support to your machine.

Im trying to bring it up under linux this weekend.

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 11:00 Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

I use the DFU bootloader and FLIP. Here's my crib sheet for DFU-fu:

1.You will need a USBtinyISP or similar ICSP http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/ Mine is avrisp2,not USBtinyISP. 2.Download WinAVR http://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/ 3.Install AVR dev tools http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-win.html 4.Obtain a compiled DFUbootloader http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=548 5.Installing A Bootloader reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard 6.Remove the BOOT jumper from the Printrboard. Press the Reset button 7.Connect the 6 pin programming cable to the Printrboard’s ICSP header. \ Red wire is next to the SD card slot!!!** 8.Connect your programmer’s USB cable. 9.Run the following avrdude commands, avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0x9B:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U flash:w:BootloaderCDC.hex:i 10.Replace jumper on the Printrboard. Press Reset again.

Re-flashing the printerboard with DFU: Install the BOOT jumper (for Rev D,E & F boards) Press and release the Reset button. The AT90USB's bootloader will appear as

a new USB device the first time you boot into the bootloader. Allow Windows

to install the USB driver and note the new COM port number.

DFU BOOTLOADER Open Atmel's FLIP software. Select the target device: AT90USB1286. Select Communication medium as USB.

Click Open. Compile firmware within Arduino. You will need to copy and paste the

compiled .HEX file into the HID application directory. The HEX file is saved in the temp folder, C:\users{currentuser}\appdata

\temp\build1234567890\Firmware_Name_Here.cpp.hex Open compiled HEX file within the FLIP software. Make sure the Erase, Blank Check, Program, and Verify checkboxes are

checked. Click the Run button Remove the BOOT jumper on the board (for Rev D, E & F boards) Hit the reset button

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136560394 .

thawkins commented 9 years ago

Ps: i thought that printrboards already used dfu protocol when in programming mode. Certainly the ones from printrbot do, im not sure what some of the clones like geeetech ones have as bootloader.

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 11:23 Tim Hawkins tim.thawkins@gmail.com wrote:

I would be interested if you can make this work under platformio, i currently dont have a windows machine.

See, platformio.org

There are a set of platformio config files in the root of the marlindev folder. And there is already a printrboard target in the platformio target. It would automate most of what you have outlined here, for installing the toolchains. You do however need to add python support to your machine.

Im trying to bring it up under linux this weekend.

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 11:00 Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

I use the DFU bootloader and FLIP. Here's my crib sheet for DFU-fu:

1.You will need a USBtinyISP or similar ICSP http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/ Mine is avrisp2,not USBtinyISP. 2.Download WinAVR http://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/ 3.Install AVR dev tools http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-win.html 4.Obtain a compiled DFUbootloader http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=548 5.Installing A Bootloader reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard 6.Remove the BOOT jumper from the Printrboard. Press the Reset button 7.Connect the 6 pin programming cable to the Printrboard’s ICSP header. \ Red wire is next to the SD card slot!!!** 8.Connect your programmer’s USB cable. 9.Run the following avrdude commands, avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0x9B:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U flash:w:BootloaderCDC.hex:i 10.Replace jumper on the Printrboard. Press Reset again.

Re-flashing the printerboard with DFU: Install the BOOT jumper (for Rev D,E & F boards) Press and release the Reset button. The AT90USB's bootloader will appear as

a new USB device the first time you boot into the bootloader. Allow Windows

to install the USB driver and note the new COM port number.

DFU BOOTLOADER Open Atmel's FLIP software. Select the target device: AT90USB1286. Select Communication medium as USB.

Click Open. Compile firmware within Arduino. You will need to copy and paste the

compiled .HEX file into the HID application directory. The HEX file is saved in the temp folder, C:\users{currentuser}\appdata

\temp\build1234567890\Firmware_Name_Here.cpp.hex Open compiled HEX file within the FLIP software. Make sure the Erase, Blank Check, Program, and Verify checkboxes are

checked. Click the Run button Remove the BOOT jumper on the board (for Rev D, E & F boards) Hit the reset button

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136560394 .

giliammc commented 9 years ago

i use linux. so what i did is install teensyduino and compile marlin for teensy ++2.0 and then use dfu-programmer to flash the hex file. i have herd that you can flash the lufa cdc boot loader and upload code directly to the printrboard with the arduino ide i haven't had any success with that.

On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 10:27 PM Tim Hawkins notifications@github.com wrote:

Ps: i thought that printrboards already used dfu protocol when in programming mode. Certainly the ones from printrbot do, im not sure what some of the clones like geeetech ones have as bootloader.

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 11:23 Tim Hawkins tim.thawkins@gmail.com wrote:

I would be interested if you can make this work under platformio, i currently dont have a windows machine.

See, platformio.org

There are a set of platformio config files in the root of the marlindev folder. And there is already a printrboard target in the platformio target. It would automate most of what you have outlined here, for installing the toolchains. You do however need to add python support to your machine.

Im trying to bring it up under linux this weekend.

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 11:00 Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

I use the DFU bootloader and FLIP. Here's my crib sheet for DFU-fu:

1.You will need a USBtinyISP or similar ICSP http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/ Mine is avrisp2,not USBtinyISP. 2.Download WinAVR http://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/ 3.Install AVR dev tools http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-win.html 4.Obtain a compiled DFUbootloader http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=548 5.Installing A Bootloader reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard 6.Remove the BOOT jumper from the Printrboard. Press the Reset button 7.Connect the 6 pin programming cable to the Printrboard’s ICSP header. \ Red wire is next to the SD card slot!!!** 8.Connect your programmer’s USB cable. 9.Run the following avrdude commands, avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U lfuse:w:0xDE:m -U hfuse:w:0x9B:m -U efuse:w:0xF0:m avrdude -c usbtiny -p at90usb1286 -U flash:w:BootloaderCDC.hex:i 10.Replace jumper on the Printrboard. Press Reset again.

Re-flashing the printerboard with DFU: Install the BOOT jumper (for Rev D,E & F boards) Press and release the Reset button. The AT90USB's bootloader will appear as

a new USB device the first time you boot into the bootloader. Allow Windows

to install the USB driver and note the new COM port number.

DFU BOOTLOADER Open Atmel's FLIP software. Select the target device: AT90USB1286. Select Communication medium as USB.

Click Open. Compile firmware within Arduino. You will need to copy and paste the

compiled .HEX file into the HID application directory. The HEX file is saved in the temp folder, C:\users{currentuser}\appdata

\temp\build1234567890\Firmware_Name_Here.cpp.hex Open compiled HEX file within the FLIP software. Make sure the Erase, Blank Check, Program, and Verify checkboxes are

checked. Click the Run button Remove the BOOT jumper on the board (for Rev D, E & F boards) Hit the reset button

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub < https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136560394

.

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136566759 .

shampine1 commented 9 years ago

The CDC/arduino process sucks; that's why I went to the trouble to re-flash the bootloader on my old boards to DFU. the FLIP process is quick and dead reliable, but irritating to dig out the .hex file.

Yes, the current printrboards from the mothership have DFU. Clones seem to have CDC on them. I really wish printerbot would add some dc power pins for fans and lights!

giliammc commented 9 years ago

What do you want the lights for? Have you tried useing the expansion pins

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 9:13am Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

The CDC/arduino process sucks; that's why I went to the trouble to re-flash the bootloader on my old boards to DFU. the FLIP process is quick and dead reliable, but irritating to dig out the .hex file.

Yes, the current printrboards from the mothership have DFU. Clones seem to have CDC on them. I really wish printerbot would add some dc power pins for fans and lights!

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136734878 .

shampine1 commented 9 years ago

The panelolu2 cable occupies those pins. The Solidoodles have LED lights inside the case; quite nice. I have rigged up cables to power them. The Solidoodle version of printrboard (old, old, old) had pins for the lights.

giliammc commented 9 years ago

Are you using both of the expansion headers

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 11:24am Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

The panelolu2 cable occupies those pins. The Solidoodles have LED lights inside the case; quite nice. I have rigged up cables to power them. The Solidoodle version of printrboard (old, old, old) had pins for the lights.

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136781176 .

shampine1 commented 9 years ago

Yes, the Panelolu2 adapter mates with all of the pins.

giliammc commented 9 years ago

@shampine1 If you are not using the estop pin that might work

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 12:19pm Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

Yes, the Panelolu2 adapter mates with all of the pins.

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136801402 .

giliammc commented 9 years ago

@shampine1 The estop pin number in marlin is 37.

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 2:33pm Gilliam Mcilheran gilliammcilheran@gmail.com wrote:

If you are not using the estop pin that might work

On Tue, Sep 1, 2015, 12:19pm Rod Shampine notifications@github.com wrote:

Yes, the Panelolu2 adapter mates with all of the pins.

— Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2214#issuecomment-136801402 .

giliammc commented 9 years ago

@shampine1 it looks to me like the panelolu2 only uses 1 of the expansion ports

shampine1 commented 9 years ago

It has an adapter that covers all the expansion pins. In any case, I've already solved the problem; just whining about it ;-)

Lukelectro commented 8 years ago

Okay, A lot has changed since I last looked at this... Is anybody using my fork or can I remove it, fork again and try to fix things that way? (I know that's not how you are suposed to use Git but I'm no git guru).

As for testing: I plan on trying the latest "RELEASE" (from marlinfirmware/marlin, not marlinfirmware/dev) and see if there are some issues that are no longer an isue. So they can be closed.

Wackerbarth commented 8 years ago

@Lukelectro -- Don't use "Release" for testing. That branch is the old 1.0 material that has actually been released. If you want to test something either work from RCBugFix (which is the latest 1.1 Release Candidate + some fixes) or go to the MarlinDev repository and test "master" or "dev" which is currently a little behind master, but I will be catching it up soon.

shampine1 commented 8 years ago

I have a new printer running now; a highly modified Cobblebot with a 15" printing volume. It has a prox on it and I have been experimenting with mesh bed leveling. I've been running the Marlin RC from 9/29/2015, but I'll switch over to the latest rev tonight.

jbrazio commented 8 years ago

Thank you for your interest making Marlin better and reporting this issue but this topic has been open for a long period of time without any further development. Marlin has been under heavy development for the past couple of months and moving to it's last mile to finish the RC cycle and release Marlin v1.1.0. We suggest you to try out the latest RCBugfix branch and reopening this issue if required.

github-actions[bot] commented 2 years ago

This issue has been automatically locked since there has not been any recent activity after it was closed. Please open a new issue for related bugs.