Limited capacity LED driver for strip lighting?

[jetcat-bob]

My LDO Voron 2.4 kit came with 2 strip LEDs for the chamber light. Their combined current requirement is 580ma @ 24v. The Leviathan has a limit of 350ma (LM3407MY). Is there a suggestion for a replacement LED strip that would be compatible with half the current of the supplied strip? It would be nice to have the same brightness. Maybe a more capable driver in the future would be nice......

[JNP-1]

Perhaps the LED strip is too long. In my printer, I have a total of 36 LEDs (2x18) on the port. Was the V2.4 an LDO kit?

[jetcat-bob]

Yes it's a Voron 2.4 LDO kit. Two strips with 18 LEDs each. Each strip pulls 280ma.

I was considering using a fan port on the Leviathan but I did find a lower power LED strip that would work. 170ma per strip of 18. Not as bright however.

I like the idea of having a constant current source for the lighting but maybe on V2 consider a higher output device ;).

Bob Wilcox

On Tue, Feb 6, 2024, 1:58 PM JNP @.***> wrote:

Perhaps the LED strip is too long. In my printer, I have a total of 36 LEDs (2x18) on the port. Was the V2.4 an LDO kit?

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[JNP-1]

Then we both have the same LED strips, my printer is also an LDO kit. With a constant current source, the output voltage is regulated to achieve the 350mA. In my case I get 22.5V, the two LED strips are connected in parallel (with the included little PCB in the Kit). Is it the same for you?

[jetcat-bob]

Measuring with my DVM and not the iffy power supply, I get 20.8V @ 353ma. Full brightness @ 24V is 510 ma. There is a difference but I can live with it. Compared to my other Voron 2.4 that has 3 strips of 18 LEDs (24V @ 700ma) on an Octopus fan port, it's pretty dim.

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 7:58 AM JNP @.***> wrote:

Then we both have the same LED strips, my printer is also an LDO kit. With a constant current source, the output voltage is regulated to achieve the 350mA. In my case I get 22.5V, the two LED strips are connected in parallel (with the included little PCB in the Kit). Is it the same for you?

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--

Bob Wilcox

[JNP-1]

It is clear that the current increases slightly at 24V. At 28V they are even brighter ;-)

[ccatlett1984]

Just run positive and negative to the PSU, only the "signal" wire needs to be on the pin. if 3 wire. Or use the spare heater output for them.

[jetcat-bob]

I don't have a spare fan output but there is a spare heater. I'll look into that possibility. Thanks for the suggestion!

Bob Wilcox

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024, 5:12 PM ccatlett1984 @.***> wrote:

Just run positive and negative to the PSU, only the "signal" wire needs to be on the pin. if 3 wire. Or use the spare heater output for them.

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[CallumRD1]

I’m also surprised at how low of a current the LED port is regulated to. My lights want to draw far more current than the header will output. It’s a very convenient port but isn’t usable for me due to the low brightness of LEDs connected to it. When I use a heater output with unregulated 24V the LEDs are far brighter. I’d have much preferred an unregulated LED header.

[ccatlett1984]

You can use [output_pin] for that pin, and be able to control the brightness.

On Thu, Feb 8, 2024, 11:49 AM CallumRD1 @.***> wrote:

I’m also surprised at how low of a current the LED port is regulated to. My lights want to draw far more current than the header will output. It’s a very convenient port but isn’t usable for me due to the low brightness of LEDs connected to it. When I use a heater output with unregulated 24V the LEDs are far brighter. I’d have much preferred an unregulated LED header.

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[JNP-1]

If you connect the LED strips in series, they should be brighter.

[CallumRD1]

I can't. I'm using Daylight on a Stick and Matchlight on a Stick. They're designed to be run inline off of 24V.

[ccatlett1984]

for those, you run the 24v directly to the psu, and the "data" pin to the neopixel header on the board.

On Thu, Feb 8, 2024 at 6:21 PM CallumRD1 @.***> wrote:

I can't. I'm using Daylight on a Stick and Matchlight on a Stick. They're designed to be run inline off of 24V.

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[CallumRD1]

for those, you run the 24v directly to the psu, and the "data" pin to the neopixel header on the board.

You have no idea what you’re talking about. These are not neopixels and have no control wire. They’re 24V white led strips with two pins: 24V and ground. They’re designed (like most white light led strips for this kind of application) to take in straight, non current regulated 24V and daisy chain in parallel so you can run many of them inline.

[jetcat-bob]

The LED strips are 2 wire. They are not addressable. For my case, I'll use the the tool head heater output for the LEDs since the printer uses a canbus driver board. The heater has plenty of current capability for making the printer glow very brightly...

Bob Wilcox

On Thu, Feb 8, 2024, 4:04 PM ccatlett1984 @.***> wrote:

for those, you run the 24v directly to the psu, and the "data" pin to the neopixel header on the board.

On Thu, Feb 8, 2024 at 6:21 PM CallumRD1 @.***> wrote:

I can't. I'm using Daylight on a Stick and Matchlight on a Stick. They're designed to be run inline off of 24V.

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[ccatlett1984]

for those, you run the 24v directly to the psu, and the "data" pin to the neopixel header on the board.

You have no idea what you’re talking about. These are not neopixels and have no control wire. They’re 24V white led strips with two pins: 24V and ground. They’re designed (like most white light led strips for this kind of application) to take in straight, non current regulated 24V and daisy chain in parallel so you can run many of them inline.

I have a set that have the 3 pin connectors. Didn't realize they had 2 pin variants.. No need to be snobby about it.

[jetcat-bob]

FYI, I did change the heater output 7.5 amp fuse (F1) to 1 amp.