Open jruths opened 2 months ago
This youtuber hobbyist has a bunch of videos on modding the car we have. He used a different controller (not the Flipsky), but I think in principle they are very similar. So the setup tools might be a bit different, but I bet you need to enter in pretty much the same information... so if there is something that you can't figure out on your own, I think this video might touch on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHt-mKDFR-g
We have determined the issue of the undervoltage fault. It appears that for some unusual reason that that the controller is pulling its voltage from the DC/DC converter which outputs around 15V. The operating range of the controller is around 14V to 84V (4-20S).
The issue of the undervoltage fault is I think might be because we are barely within the operating voltage of the controller. Either way I think it is better to directly hook up the controller to the battery since the Lithium-Iron battery is within the 84V.
Power Source Stability:
Anti-Spark Switch Installation:
Since the motor controller is now directly wired to the battery, it is recommended to add an anti-spark switch between the battery and controller. This will prevent sparks when disconnecting or reconnecting power, protecting both the controller and wiring from damage.
Examples: https://www.amazon.com/Amass-Connector-Anti-Spark-Battery-Charger/dp/B074PTHZ3M?th=1
Monitoring and Safety:
We now also have an unused DC/DC converter because originally for some reason that converter was dedicated for the motor controller but in my opinion that is overkill.
Demonstration of the throttle: https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/d6851d0b-c39e-4602-bd95-cd78ec4f6258
Problem that we need to fix with hooking up motor controller directly to battery: https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/600dd9db-ec58-4d82-b048-41a72754a305
The motor controller needs to be configured to work with the stock motor on the 1/3 scale car.