Hop-up tab

[KookyMawnster]

Hi! Finally finished my build. Even wired it to do a 3-shot burst 8).
Would it be possible to make a couple hop up tabs to try that are a little bigger? Definitely in the horizonal dimension, but also a bit in the vertical dimension? I have a Perses and the hop-up tab is quite substantial. From 25 feet away all shots hit a 2x3 door window. The Juno at times shanks balls like a drunk golfer - i feel the balls are sometimes catching more of the corner of the hop-up tab (using TPU BTW)....Please and thanks in advance.

[Turokhunter]

I made an adjustable hop-up, where you can change the Depth with m3 screw. Do you have m3 x 8mm screw?

[KookyMawnster]

Yes I will try that.

[Turokhunter]

Here are the 8mm and 10mm(this screw came in the hardware kit) for the adjustable nozzle versions. Give this a try, and let me know if it helps or worsens it. These are very much experimental designs.

8mm m3: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/k85dqsc0absgw8wncjm47/Nozzle-Adjustable-v1.3mf?rlkey=ohvq6emkdmmildqdpytttmpz2&dl=0 10mm m3: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/r2ufx46qfqeuanzkb84up/Nozzle-Adjustable-10mm-v1.3mf?rlkey=5khtg860btbpl7kmhalg5353y&dl=0

[phoem]

In my tests so far I am not running into this issue. Will do further testing tomorrow when I can see better. How did you wire the 3 shot burst using an arduino?

[KookyMawnster]

Hi, No it's the analog way with a capacitor. It's not perfect. Sorry holiday's always a busy time I drew a wiring diagram just have to find time to post it. I know BBC micro:bit well if done digitally I would put an IR break beam counter in the barrel/nozzle and control the n20 motor with the micro:bit, cutting it off when the IR beam counts 3

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-------- Original Message -------- On Dec 26, 2023, 6:34 p.m., Jordan Newman wrote:

In my tests so far I am not running into this issue. Will do further testing tomorrow when I can see better. How did you wire the 3 shot burst using an arduino?

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[phoem]

No problem, please share when you can. Are you cutting all the motors off at the 3rd shot or just the n20? Could it be they are getting cut off a hair early and thats affecting tbe trajectory and power of your 3rd ball? I am assuming a lot here I know. I will do some tests when its sunny today, don't have a large enough area inside unless I want to watch them ping pong off 3 walls :)

[KookyMawnster]

I think it's the alignment of the wheels but it's seemingly solved itself. Have yet to try Tarik's adjustable hop up tabs. Here is the wiring diagram it just shows the circuit to the pusher motor - the flywheel motors are wired in paralell to this. I ended up using a 4700 uF capacitor.

[KookyMawnster]

Sorry not sure if the wiring diagram showed up The capacitor charges from the battery, and discharges to run the pusher motor when the trigger is pulled. Interestingly, "full auto" is achievable by rapidly actuating the trigger, which alternately recharges and discharges the capacitor to keep the pusher motor running.

[Turokhunter]

If it’s working I wouldn’t touch it. The adjustable hop-up might sound great but there is a reason I didn’t include at first. It’s way too easy to set the hopup wrong and either tank your balls or end up shooting the sky.

[KookyMawnster]

Ya I'm find the hopup tab in TPU work but they are tearing. I had printed one in PLA before finding out they should be in TPU....wicked hopup. I filed the leading edge down a bit which greatly reduced the hopuo so when I have time I will try to file it down more. On another note, I find the size of the pusher fine for Rival rounds, but not for the slightly larger and denser dart zone rounds. These don't feed. I ended up printing the loose pusher at 92% in the x and y dimensions. Now the feeding is flawless. It doesn't help that the magazine springs are quite weak to start with.

[Turokhunter]

Yea, I received an email yesterday about the tpu tearing. I will have to investigate. In my build I have been mostly using Pla version and it works fine. Are you mostly using dart zone rounds? I wonder if they are the cause of the PLA version not doing the right hop up and tearing of the tpu. If so, I might need to design separate parts or figure a more robust solution.

Hmm resizing the wheel will cause to feed slightly different. Let me know if affects aim. I try to do more investigation.

[KookyMawnster]

You know Tarik I think your design is great. It is the nature of the beast printing with melted plastic, with different filament brands and printers, that there will be variances so I thought I would give you a big thanks for this project 👍 To me if people have to make adjustments it's because we are 3D printing not injection moulding or CNCing aluminum

[phoem]

I ran quite a few tests and I am not seeing any issues with the shots so I think you are probably right it might be something related to your print tolerances. But it sounds like you fixed it so awesome. Turok, The tpu hopper that came in the OOD kit hasn't worn or broken on me so maybe the person who has one that broke got a bad print, TPU can be finicky after all. If mine breaks though I will let you know and just print some more. Have some TPU-95A High Flow I have been wanting to try out so maybe ill print a few backups just in case. Love the gun! Thanks again

[Turokhunter]

I can always thicken up the hopup, but it will lose some flexibility. Let's see if others are running into issues so we can nail down what is happening.

[KookyMawnster]

Update - I filed the PLA hopup tab a little more and took a hair off the height. Rounds fly a lot straighter now. Pretty much now a 45 degree bevel on the leading face of the hopup tab that faces towards the flywheels.