TS100 bricked

[zZ-JayBuck-Zz]

Please edit this template and fill out all the information you can (where relevant). Failure to provide essential information can delay the response you receive.

• I'm submitting a ...

  • [x] Bug report
  • [ ] Feature request
  • [ ] Translation

• Do you want to request a feature or report a bug? Bug

• What is the current behavior? Booting with button closest to tip goes to DFU 3.43, C4D3BC1A (E:) drive opens. These files are there, dunno if relevant.

When copying TS100 v2.04 to drive this occurs and the drive disappears.

After a minute or two E drive reappears as this.

TS100 does not power when plugged in now, and firmware from manufacture, returns with first error message.

TS100 is bricked, any help or should I just RMA it to Amazon?

[ppisljar]

i got into the same issue.

i wanted to install alternative bootloader, copying that file 'kind of' works:

• file starts copying
• i get windows sound that usb device was disconected before it finishes, but everything seems to be ok otherwise
• drive reapears with filename changed to .RDY
• however screen still says DFU 2.45

tried rebooting, its still DFU 2.45, so it seems flashing the alternative bootloader didn't work. am i missing any steps to installing the alternative bootloader ?

is there a place i could find original firmware so i can try flashing that one over usb drive ?

[ppisljar]

never mind, trying on an old computer with usb 2.0 solved my problem

[Jasonstewart81]

Hello everyone. New here. Really could use some help. Ive had my sainsmart ts100 for maybe 3 years now and absolutely love it, up until I found out about this upgraded firmware and tried flashing it over by following the instructions with no success using the (TS100-EN.HEX) file. I was having the same issues others were having where it wouldn't go through, the serial numbered drive window that would pop up would just revert to a USB drive D: and either say try again, skip, or cancel. Then I tried following the instructions about the bootloader I see mentioned in here but was extremely confused about how to do the process. So now my ts100 is completely screwed and stuck on the "bl flash" when powered by the DC barrel jack or via the USB cable. I'm heart broken. I love my ts100 and now I can't use it. How do I fix this?

[Ralim]

@Jasonstewart81 If you have flashed the new bootloader and done the "confirm" stage, so it has replaced the original firmware. You now have to use a usb-dfu compliant tool to flash the firmware, rather than it showing up as a virtual USB drive.

If you have flashed the alternate bootloader, just use a USB-DFU tool for your operating system. As you have not stated your operating system, I'm going to assume you are using a Windows based OS. Back when I used Windows I was using http://dfu-programmer.github.io/ to do DFU flashing. Just use that program to load the .bin file into the flash at the correct offset, or use the HEX file (if its suported)

If you have not actually replaced your bootloader, then you should still be able to hold the front button (A) and have it show up as a USB drive on your pc. In this case you just need to flash the firmware like normal.

[Jasonstewart81]

Sorry, I'm using Windows 10. I'm not savvy with programming and stuff so I'm a bit lost when trying to figure this stuff out. So basically where I'm at with my ts100 is whether plugged in via the micro USB cord or DC barrel jack all I get is the "BL FLASH" screen where you confirm it and it says "done!".

[Jasonstewart81]

So what all do I need to download to try this out? I know I'll need your TS100-EN.HEX file for the firmware. What are the other files do I need to get my iron back online? 😔

[Jasonstewart81]

Weird. When I flashed dapboot ( ts100-dapboot.hex) it did not replace DFU, it replace the firmware. When I start the iron normally it just shows BL Flash, if I start it pressing the front button it goes to DFU.

This is EXACTLY my issue as of right now and i have absolutely no idea how to do anything else. If i press the A button while inserting the USB cable it does pop up in my device manager as "STM device in DFU mode" under the Universal Serial Bus controllers. I just have no idea what to do from here.

[Ralim]

If your device is showing up as "STM device in DFU mode" that means that you have replaced your bootloader with the DFU one instead.

As i mentioned earlier, this means you must use a DFU tool to load the firmware. You could try the one i linked earlier, i normally use dfu-util to load firmware on my devices.

[Jasonstewart81]

I'll try again, but I've never done this before so I have no idea what I'm doing. That why I came here looking for guidance on how to do it.

[Jasonstewart81]

This is what I get trying to use the DFU-UTIL you linked to me.

[Jasonstewart81]

All i wanted to do was upgrade my firmware by following the very simple steps and it didn't work. Now i have a useless soldering iron. About ready to throw it in the trash. I'm pissed because there was nothing wrong with it prior to me trying to upgrade firmware.

[Ralim]

Hey man, don't panic. This will be fixed fine, if you haven't used normal USB-DFU updaters before this is just a bit of teething as it's the first time your doing it. That error message indicates your missing libusb, so check the libusb wiki for how to setup the libusb driver https://github.com/libusb/libusb/wiki/Windows#How_to_use_libusb_on_Windows

You could also try following this guide : https://www.hanselman.com/blog/HowToFixDfuutilSTMWinUSBZadigBootloadersAndOtherFirmwareFlashingIssuesOnWindows.aspx

I don't have any windows machines currently so I cannot give you step by step instructions, but generally with windows it's just a case of getting drivers sorted.out and then it works. Try not to panic, this isn't going to suddenly brick your device, you just chose to flash a different bootloader to the unit, so now you have to use that bootloaders method of updating (which, is generally much, much more reliable than the miniware one).

[Jasonstewart81]

I really do appreciate the help. I just honestly don't know what i'm supposed to do. I've tried to read and follow the instructions, but honestly they aren't very helpful. It's worded in such ways that only people who already understand it and have programming experience will know what to do. I give up on it. I'd rather have a useless ts100 than brick my computer I recently built myself. I've built several computers and I am a knowledgeable guy when it comes to many things, but programming isn't one of them and I really just can't get a grasp or understanding of how to do what you guys are telling me to do. I'll just stick to using my Hakko FX-888D for now I guess.

[Ralim]

Try using https://devanlai.github.io/webdfu/dfu-util/ I haven't used it in ages, but it should work. Give it the .bin file from the releases page.

If the TS100 doesn't show up straight away, you may need to fill in the vendor ID. This can be found by looking in device manager ->details -> hardware details. Then it will be VEN=XXXX and you need the four X's.

On Fri., 18 Oct. 2019, 08:05 Jasonstewart81, notifications@github.com wrote:

I really do appreciate the help. I just honestly don't know what i'm supposed to do. I've tried to read and follow the instructions, but honestly they aren't very helpful. It's worded in such ways that only people who already understand it and have programming experience will know what to do. I give up on it. I'd rather have a useless ts100 than brick my computer I recently built myself. I've built several computers and I am a knowledgeable guy when it comes to many things, but programming isn't one of them and I really just can't get a grasp or understanding of how to do what you guys are telling me to do. I'll just stick to using my Hakko FX-888D for now I guess.

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[Jasonstewart81]

See, what's weird is sometimes in the device manager it shows up as STM device in DFU mode and other times I get DAPBoot something bootloader.

[Jasonstewart81]

I think where I screwed up and created this whole issue in the first place was when I went to flash the upgraded firmware, I deleted whatever was on the device that showed up when it opened up the USB drive window. I have a habit of doing that when I want to load something new and fresh onto a device. Most likely I deleted something that was meant to stay and now I'm in the situation I'm in.

[Jasonstewart81]

Beating my head against the wall right now. I wish I understood what to do, but I just don't get it. Tried the last link you gave me for that web based deal but can't find the VEN=xxxx number. I click on device manager->universal serial bus controllers->stm device in dfu mode->details. Nothing in the drop down list shows ANY kind of VEN=xxxx numbers.

[Jasonstewart81]

There needs to be a YouTube video showing a step by step process of how to get your ts100 back online when in STM device in DFU mode. Lol

[Jasonstewart81]

I just went ahead and ordered a new one on Amazon that came with 2 soldering tips which the Sain Smart pro32 I originally had did not. This one says its the upgraded version which I'm not sure what that means. I believe it has the accelerometer in it. Comes with power adapter also. I just got way too frustrated with the other one and not being able to get it working again. Maybe one day I'll figure it out and hang onto it. Still would be very cool if someone made a how to video covering firmware upgrades and how to get your iron back online if you accidentally did what I did and put a different bootloader on it or whatever it was that I did.

[Jasonstewart81]

So.................i just got my new TS100 today and tried updating the firmware still with NO success whatsoever. I don't understand how most people are able to do this without any issues. Mind blown. Brand spankin new, held the A button while inserting the USB cable, DFU : 3.45 pops up, a window opens BEC5B012 (D:), drag the TS100_EN.HEX file over and all i get is an error message and then eventually i get the "file size is too large" message. So i said screw it. i'm not gonna worry about this upgraded firmware and just use this new iron as it is...........BUT NOW WHEN I PUT POWER TO IT IT WILL NOT TURN ON. I am absolutely pissed off right now. Now i'm going to have to wait AGAIN and return this iron because it's not working. Brand new iron already dead from trying to upgrade firmware step by step EXACTLY like i'm supposed to. This is ridiculous.

[Jasonstewart81]

I don't mean to come off rude, but I honestly don't recommend anyone try this UPGRADE if you want to keep a WORKING ts100 otherwise you risk it NOT working. This is two ts100's in a row now that haven't been successful at upgrading firmware on windows 10. Whether it's a windows 10 issue or something else, that I'm unsure of. I think the developer of this firmware needs to make sure to include detailed instructions on how make this work for all platforms in the event that you run into the same issues like I and others are having. I can't afford to keep losing $70 a pop. Yeah, it's my fault for even trying this again when I could have very well just used the ts100 with the stock firmware, but let's face it, the options of the upgraded firmware are nice, but if it doesn't work and bricks my iron to where it won't power on, it's useless to me at that point and since I myself am not savvy with programming and figuring out how to do all this fancy stuff trying to make it work, I'm either out $70 of my hard earned money or possibly still within my 30day return policy. So as of right now my original ts100 I've had for about 3 years that worked before trying this upgrade I've lost my money on and thankfully this new one I just bought I'm able to return for a new one AGAIN. So damn mad right now. 😡

[whitehoose]

jason, its obvious from the outset that you don't have even the slightest idea what the point of modding is. First rule is nobody mentions fight club. The second is you have to if not KNOW what you are doing - you should at least have the basics mastered. What the standard boot loader consists of and how to apply a firmware update, and perhaps most importantly, how to backpedal if its gone TU. The brains of this outfit don't get any kicks from buggering up ... but equally the whole idea is packed with knowing that if you start reading from day 1 - and read through to present. NO ONE can conclusively say that a firmware update has ever physically damaged an iron. But when YOU download the update you also have to accept you (and only you) are responsible for what happens next.

There are a (very) few people so out of their depth that they have thrown their teddy grasping their iron out of a window ... but anyone with even a grain of sense knows that modding anything with any version of firmware (even the official versions) must face the fact that there is some chance that it's going to end in tears. (Look at windows - from day 1!!!!!!!)

Read the comments - plenty of people saying everything from great!!! to great scott!!!! - but you are the only one who has "broken" not one - but two irons (and in record time!!!)... I'd have to emphasise THE ONLY ONE. With one in the ditch what on earth possessed you to do it again? Once you secured your second and confirmed it was working.. Fair enough Try a few alternatives on the first - but even Homer and Bart know when to throw in the towel (OK that's not a good example - but at least THINK before you advertise what you've done).

Yes I'm here - because Yes I understand the risks and accept the consequences. And yes I broke an iron (ts80) when they first came out - I tried to power the 80 wit a non qc3 powerbank and some hardware I'd built. I spoke to the retailer and told them what I'd done - they replaced the iron. I then spoke to mini to source and buy replacement parts - they insisted on sending me a new motherboard - so now I have TWO irons - and both are working.

Sometimes I update - sometimes I sit back and wait and see - depending on what's said I update ... or not. But I always take an educated risk knowing that I can undo what I've done.

Seeing as how you've now screwed two - I've got to ask, "can I have at least one of your cast offs"? I'll pay postage, I could do with a project and I'll report back when I have it (them?) working.

[Jasonstewart81]

As I said, yes this was my fault for even trying again. I plugged this brand new one in while pressing the A button entering DFU mode. Try dragging and dropping the HEX file over like it says to do and all I get is an error. I said to myself okay, screw it. I'll just use the iron stock with what it came with. No worries. But when I tried to plug in the included power supply it doesn't turn on. So even though the firmware upgrade didn't successfully transfer over it still bricks the TS100. This is what I don't understand.

[Jasonstewart81]

I'm a commercial HVAC service technician. I fix and repair air conditioning systems and or controls, high or low voltage. I'm not a programmer or electronics engineer. No, I don't know 100% what I'm doing, but I sure as hell know how to follow instructions as simple as pressing a damn button while inserting a USB cable and dragging & dropping a HEX file over into the root of a drive. I accept responsibility for trying this, but I DON'T accept full responsibility for following step by step the process of upgrading this firmware and ending up with another dead ts100. I'm all for trying to get my old one working that was fine before trying to upgrade firmware. The new one I just got today I've already put in a return on for a new one which will be here next week. I have yet to get solid instructions on how exactly to get my old one working again for a "dummy" like me which you pretty much are referring me to in your own way.

[Jasonstewart81]

I've tried usb 3.0, usb 2.0, different cables. Unfortunately I don't have anything older than windows 10 so I'm stuck with that.

[krepa098]

The default bootloader is junk. The drag and drop firmware upgrade doesn't work for me either (also tried different cables, ports etc.).

However, the other bootloader which you flashed successfully to one of your TS100s works like a charm. The problem in your case seems to be Windows. Get an Ubuntu live image and run the dfu-util with the command I posted in one of my posts above (make sure you use the .bin firmware and not the .hex).

[Jasonstewart81]

Krepa098

Thank you. I'll try again, but here's my issue. Without fully understanding what I'm doing, I'm not sure what files I need to download to make them work.

[Jasonstewart81]

I apologize if I'm coming off as an asshole. I don't mean to be. I'm just upset because I want my ts100 working again with upgraded firmware. I'm will to try whatever is suggested, but I need links to download what I need to download. I know some of you were already helpful in giving me links to download to try, but I'm back to square one with not knowing exactly what I'm supposed to do. Like many things in life, if you've never done it before how are you going to know what you NEED to get started and once you have what you NEED you're gonna need to know what steps to take to do the job. Sure with a lot of things also there's multiple ways to get the same things done, but I imagine with programming it needs to be done with specific things in a specific order in order for the end result to work as it's supposed to.

[Jasonstewart81]

Ultimately I'd really like to start over from scratch step by step. Reload whatever bootloader I need and how to do it PROPERLY. Download whatever BIN or HEX file I need or whatever file(s) I need period to make this work. Download whatever utility I need and how to use it in conjunction with whatever files I downloaded to get my ts100 working again. If someone could kindly help me with that I would be absolutely grateful.

[Jasonstewart81]

New ts100 arriving Tuesday to replace the new one I received today and already messed up. I still really wish I could understand what the heck to do to fix my old ts100. Really bummed out about it honestly. I somehow managed to get it back to saying DFU:3.43 again using that web based DFU tool thing. Can't remember for the life of me what file I used to get it back to saying DFU:3.43. at least the window pops up again, but I still can't drag & drop over the TS100_EN.HEX file nor can I drag and drop the stock TS100.HEX file over without getting the same failed errors as before. 😥

[whitehoose]

Jason. Firstly - I have two ts80s and not any ts100s so I cant talk with any authority BUT dfu is a funny old system. (as is windows, consider making a Linux live CD or memory stick - its sometimes useful to get a second opinion - MINT is a good beginner's distro) I've worked on PCs since before the term was invented - small systems cut corners and DFU is pretty tiny. On my 80 you press button A and plug in the lead. If you've got it right you don't see anything but an empty file manager window named with a serial like BFCAC8F0. If you see a USB drive its gone wrong (although you might see "system volume" in windows - start again. The iron just says DFU:xxx

see https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/wiki/Upgrading-Firmware Drop ts80_whatever.hex into the empty window. there will be a flash and a bang the window will close. WAIT!!! After a few seconds The window will reopen and hex file will ave been replaced by something on the lines of TS80_E~1.ERR (or possibly *.rdy) DON't PANIC. nothing happens - unplug press button A plug in dfu - and on (mine) same serial - empty file manager - looking good UNPLUG then reconnect Iron restarts Press button B - you should have iron's menu - and tip getting warm?

To reverse - go to mfr's stock firmware download page, download copy of your version apply as above - back to normal. NEVER f**k with bootloader unless someone tells you to - make certain you clarify with them HOW BEFORE you start.

You will always get some genius telling you the stock whatever is rubbish unless research shows they're right (there will be many more than a single voice if its true) I don't have any reason to believe it is - no one else says it is - so I'm questioning whether krepa098 is in the same boat and just clutching for straws. I certainly see no evidence to support his opinion (so I'm ignoring him, pending more inf). You really need to get to grips with google ... searching "ts100 official firmware" shows results for updating Ralim''s firmware NOT the stock - so you need to be suspicious of everything (even me!) This at least shows the broad principle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2k_kvUDuPY But it's misleading anyone could find this and unless they know to pull out - they're going to end up going ralim without any explanation what that means. Always start as the frightened bunny. If you look at something and decide you need someone to hold your hand to get to the other side. its simple TURN AWAY AND START WALKING - DON't look back, certainly don't carry on. If you can't look after yourself don't do it ... or don't do it unless you are willing to risk losing. If you haven't learned that as a engineer - you're not safe. If your way of working is to ignore when you're out of your depth and blow the unit off the wall, burn the building and destroy the equipment then scream for help and blame others - I won't be employing you. Sometimes a rookie would follow through a door guns blazing and 10 minutes later, well after the entry was over, he'd still be squeezing the trigger. He'd get ripped for not seeing the danger, next one people would put him somewhere safe, the rest was up to him. Everyone gets a strike - but you have to at least learn know when to stop shooting - or someone gets hurt.

In your case - get a pencil and write down what you've done - that way wen someone else does what you've just done you can pay your dues and help them

[Jasonstewart81]

When i plug in my ts100 while holding the A button as of right now a drive window pops up named "C1DC85E6 (D:)" which is the window you're instructed to drag and drop the new UPGRADE ts100_en.hex file or the stock .hex file for that matter if it were to come direct from the manufacturer. All i get when i try to drag & drop the file is what you see in this picture. The C1DC85E6 (D:) disappears, i hit cancel, and then the drive reappears as USB drive (D:).

[JennyEverywhere]

I don't know that it was made clear at the beginning, but if you're under the impression that Ralin's firmware is the MANUFACTURER'S firmware upgrade, someone sold you a bridge somewhere. It isn't. It's a HOBBYIST'S 3rd party firmware. There is an actual manufacturer's firmware elsewhere -- the documentation your iron came with should have an URL. Mine did.

That said, I have to agree with the "be the timid little bunny" point of view. I don't like taking chances with something I rely on. I rely on my TS100 as my GOOD soldering iron. I still have my old Weller station that's only temperature controlled inasmuch as the heating element has a temp range on it, but I'd rather heat up a butterknife in a blowtorch and use THAT than go back to that piece of crap iron. It's 20 years old, and was out of date when I got the thing. So...risk my TS100 that I use, if not every day, at least several times a week, or just keep using it in the pristine condition it had coming out of the box...? Bueller? Bueller?

Yes, I belong to this list, and watch Ralim's progress...but I have never, ever, EVER installed his firmware on my beloved TS100! I might, someday, if I get a SECOND iron, probably another TS100, because I don't see the great benefit to a TS80, and I have 4 or 5 tips for the TS100 that wouldn't be compatible. Now if I could only find that bag of tip sponges I have around here someplace...

My suggestion: DO NOT try to install this firmware on your new iron when it comes in. Instead, take the advice about putting the factory firmware on your old irons, and try again to make them work. You may have to fiddle a bit, read some documentation, follow some more threads, watch some videos. LEARN what this thing does and how it does it, rather than just asking for others to fix it for you by proxy. IF they do that, you won't understand WHY what they did worked. You'll just know Yet Another Rote Procedure. Learning by rote is for drones, and you don't strike me as being a drone, so why are you learning that way? Figure out how the darned thing works. Study some microcontroller stuff. There's enough free learning content out there, you could learn WHY the bootloader is important and how to use one, probably in a couple of hours. Take a free or cheap class on setting up a Linux distro, so you'll have more operating system options than just Windows 10, which particularly blows in the USB handling portion, which is why I have a Raspberry Pi with Linux on it AND my main PC still runs Windows 7. Only my workbench PC runs Win10, because that's what it came with.

Do not experiment on something you rely on unless you have a backup, or are CERTAIN you understand how to fix it if something goes sideways. And go find the manufacturer's firmware and download it, because THIS AIN'T IT.

---Gwen

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 5:10 PM Jasonstewart81 notifications@github.com wrote:

When i plug in my ts100 while holding the A button as of right now a drive window pops up named "C1DC85E6 (D:)" which is the window you're instructed to drag and drop the new UPGRADE ts100_en.hex file or the stock .hex file for that matter if it were to come direct from the manufacturer. All i get when i try to drag & drop the file is what you see in this picture. The C1DC85E6 (D:) disappears, i hit cancel, and then the drive reappears as USB drive (D:). [image: Untitled] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/56612936/67166360-6f381d00-f35c-11e9-8d2d-b4ec6c38667d.jpg

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[whitehoose]

Release button a - can you see d:? - because its not there in your screenshot try opening a command prompt and typing copy c:\Users\<yourname>\Downloads\TS100_EN.hex d:

PS - Jenny's right

[Jasonstewart81]

I don't know that it was made clear at the beginning, but if you're under the impression that Ralin's firmware is the MANUFACTURER'S firmware upgrade, someone sold you a bridge somewhere. It isn't. It's a HOBBYIST'S 3rd party firmware. There is an actual manufacturer's firmware elsewhere -- the documentation your iron came with should have an URL. Mine did. That said, I have to agree with the "be the timid little bunny" point of view. I don't like taking chances with something I rely on. I rely on my TS100 as my GOOD soldering iron. I still have my old Weller station that's only temperature controlled inasmuch as the heating element has a temp range on it, but I'd rather heat up a butterknife in a blowtorch and use THAT than go back to that piece of crap iron. It's 20 years old, and was out of date when I got the thing. So...risk my TS100 that I use, if not every day, at least several times a week, or just keep using it in the pristine condition it had coming out of the box...? Bueller? Bueller? Yes, I belong to this list, and watch Ralim's progress...but I have never, ever, EVER installed his firmware on my beloved TS100! I might, someday, if I get a SECOND iron, probably another TS100, because I don't see the great benefit to a TS80, and I have 4 or 5 tips for the TS100 that wouldn't be compatible. Now if I could only find that bag of tip sponges I have around here someplace... My suggestion: DO NOT try to install this firmware on your new iron when it comes in. Instead, take the advice about putting the factory firmware on your old irons, and try again to make them work. You may have to fiddle a bit, read some documentation, follow some more threads, watch some videos. LEARN what this thing does and how it does it, rather than just asking for others to fix it for you by proxy. IF they do that, you won't understand WHY what they did worked. You'll just know Yet Another Rote Procedure. Learning by rote is for drones, and you don't strike me as being a drone, so why are you learning that way? Figure out how the darned thing works. Study some microcontroller stuff. There's enough free learning content out there, you could learn WHY the bootloader is important and how to use one, probably in a couple of hours. Take a free or cheap class on setting up a Linux distro, so you'll have more operating system options than just Windows 10, which particularly blows in the USB handling portion, which is why I have a Raspberry Pi with Linux on it AND my main PC still runs Windows 7. Only my workbench PC runs Win10, because that's what it came with. Do not experiment on something you rely on unless you have a backup, or are CERTAIN you understand how to fix it if something goes sideways. And go find the manufacturer's firmware and download it, because THIS AIN'T IT. … ---Gwen On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 5:10 PM Jasonstewart81 @.***> wrote: When i plug in my ts100 while holding the A button as of right now a drive window pops up named "C1DC85E6 (D:)" which is the window you're instructed to drag and drop the new UPGRADE ts100_en.hex file or the stock .hex file for that matter if it were to come direct from the manufacturer. All i get when i try to drag & drop the file is what you see in this picture. The C1DC85E6 (D:) disappears, i hit cancel, and then the drive reappears as USB drive (D:). [image: Untitled] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/56612936/67166360-6f381d00-f35c-11e9-8d2d-b4ec6c38667d.jpg — You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#298?email_source=notifications&email_token=AENBU7KBJIMZ6OEWEE6WEGLQPTCLPA5CNFSM4E7KWE22YY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEBYUAZY#issuecomment-544292967>, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AENBU7ISZNASER24FUJ6ETDQPTCLPANCNFSM4E7KWE2Q . -- -+-+-+-+- Jenny Everywhere's Infinite: Quark Time http://quarktime.net

I know i know. Shame on me for even doing this not only once, but twice. I thought that MAYBE just MAYBE it had to do with my older TS100 not accepting this UPGRADED firmware, but obviously that's not the case since it happened to my brand new one also.

I'm still stuck here because unfortunately i just don't know how or what to do when you are stuck in DFU mode or Bootloader mode or whatever MODE it's in.

I'd gladly try and put the old stock firmware on my original iron which i've tried to without success. If i knew what i was doing i wouldn't be here asking for help and rather i would be here providing help to those who are having my issue.

So let me strat back fresh here. I have an older ts100. As of right now all i can do with it is plug in the usb while holding the A button, it shows DFU:3.43, and the window pops up C1DC85E6 (D:). It will not accept dragging the HEX file over whether it be Ralims or the stock HEX file.

I would really like to get my old iron working, but i don't know how to get this stock firmware flashed back onto this iron. At this point i'm ready to just throw it in the trash, but at the same time i'm not trying to spend hundreds of dollars to take courses to learn how to do this just for a $70 soldering iron. I just wish someone who knows how to do this, could explain to me what i need to do in dummy form. I'm not expecting you to do it for me....i just need to know what files or software i need to try and get this iron working again. Now if this is a windows 10 issue holding me back from doing this, well then i guess i've got other bigger issues holding me back.

[JennyEverywhere]

Step 1: Drop the Chalupa. Put down all of the irons, and step away. Just step away. Step 2: Look up "How to use DFU" with Google. Step 3: Read pages and watch videos until you understand how it works. If you have to detour into how to program microcontrollers, that's fine, go spend a day or two (or longer) haring off in that direction. The new TS100 that's on its way will let you solder until you know how to deal with the old ones. Warning!: DO NOT try to upgrade the firmware on the NEW iron at this time. Not even with the factory upgraded firmware. Just use it as-is, it'll be just fine. I know this to be fact, since that's what I do. So it's perfectly safe to NOT upgrade the iron. Don't. Step 4: Continue to study until you understand what's going on. If you feel you want to experiment, you have two irons that you can experiment on. Just do NOT use the new one that's working fine!

I know I'm hammering hard on this, but I had to learn this myself. It's okay to take some time to study the technology first. Get a couple of cheap microcontrollers. Learn to program them. There's lots of free resources. Find a couple that use DFU to program them, and play around with them. Write a couple of simple programs for them, and learn how to upload them on your cheap microcontrollers. You may find it to be fun in and of itself.

I had to do this to learn how to take a little ATTINY based board that plugs directly into a USB port and turn it into a gadget that would convert Morse Code into ASCII text and shove it into the keyboard buffer. I sometimes have so much trouble with chronic pain that I can't type, so I use it to enter simple text into chat programs and emails when I can't type. It's slower, but only moves one or two fingers a little bit, instead of both hands and arms, and I can hold said fingers at a more comfortable angle. So I can totally relate with wanting to make something work, but not quite knowing how to go about it. Take your time and study the problem from the beginning. I'm sure you can get it, if you take your time.

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 7:08 PM Jason Stewart notifications@github.com wrote:

I don't know that it was made clear at the beginning, but if you're under the impression that Ralin's firmware is the MANUFACTURER'S firmware upgrade, someone sold you a bridge somewhere. It isn't. It's a HOBBYIST'S 3rd party firmware. There is an actual manufacturer's firmware elsewhere -- the documentation your iron came with should have an URL. Mine did. That said, I have to agree with the "be the timid little bunny" point of view. I don't like taking chances with something I rely on. I rely on my TS100 as my GOOD soldering iron. I still have my old Weller station that's only temperature controlled inasmuch as the heating element has a temp range on it, but I'd rather heat up a butterknife in a blowtorch and use THAT than go back to that piece of crap iron. It's 20 years old, and was out of date when I got the thing. So...risk my TS100 that I use, if not every day, at least several times a week, or just keep using it in the pristine condition it had coming out of the box...? Bueller? Bueller? Yes, I belong to this list, and watch Ralim's progress...but I have never, ever, EVER installed his firmware on my beloved TS100! I might, someday, if I get a SECOND iron, probably another TS100, because I don't see the great benefit to a TS80, and I have 4 or 5 tips for the TS100 that wouldn't be compatible. Now if I could only find that bag of tip sponges I have around here someplace... My suggestion: DO NOT try to install this firmware on your new iron when it comes in. Instead, take the advice about putting the factory firmware on your old irons, and try again to make them work. You may have to fiddle a bit, read some documentation, follow some more threads, watch some videos. LEARN what this thing does and how it does it, rather than just asking for others to fix it for you by proxy. IF they do that, you won't understand WHY what they did worked. You'll just know Yet Another Rote Procedure. Learning by rote is for drones, and you don't strike me as being a drone, so why are you learning that way? Figure out how the darned thing works. Study some microcontroller stuff. There's enough free learning content out there, you could learn WHY the bootloader is important and how to use one, probably in a couple of hours. Take a free or cheap class on setting up a Linux distro, so you'll have more operating system options than just Windows 10, which particularly blows in the USB handling portion, which is why I have a Raspberry Pi with Linux on it AND my main PC still runs Windows 7. Only my workbench PC runs Win10, because that's what it came with. Do not experiment on something you rely on unless you have a backup, or are CERTAIN you understand how to fix it if something goes sideways. And go find the manufacturer's firmware and download it, because THIS AIN'T IT. … <#m5385516061679012850> ---Gwen On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 5:10 PM Jasonstewart81 @.***> wrote: When i plug in my ts100 while holding the A button as of right now a drive window pops up named "C1DC85E6 (D:)" which is the window you're instructed to drag and drop the new UPGRADE ts100_en.hex file or the stock .hex file for that matter if it were to come direct from the manufacturer. All i get when i try to drag & drop the file is what you see in this picture. The C1DC85E6 (D:) disappears, i hit cancel, and then the drive reappears as USB drive (D:). [image: Untitled] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/56612936/67166360-6f381d00-f35c-11e9-8d2d-b4ec6c38667d.jpg — You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#298 https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/issues/298?email_source=notifications&email_token=AENBU7KBJIMZ6OEWEE6WEGLQPTCLPA5CNFSM4E7KWE22YY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEBYUAZY#issuecomment-544292967>, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AENBU7ISZNASER24FUJ6ETDQPTCLPANCNFSM4E7KWE2Q . -- -+-+-+-+- Jenny Everywhere's Infinite: Quark Time http://quarktime.net

I know i know. Shame on me for even doing this not only once, but twice. I thought that MAYBE just MAYBE it had to do with my older TS100 not accepting this UPGRADED firmware, but obviously that's not the case since it happened to my brand new one also.

I'm still stuck here because unfortunately i just don't know how or what to do when you are stuck in DFU mode or Bootloader mode or whatever MODE it's in.

I'd gladly try and put the old stock firmware on my original iron which i've tried to without success. If i knew what i was doing i wouldn't be here asking for help and rather i would be here providing help to those who are having my issue.

So let me strat back fresh here. I have an older ts100. As of right now all i can do with it is plug in the usb while holding the A button, it shows DFU:3.43, and the window pops up C1DC85E6 (D:). It will not accept dragging the HEX file over whether it be Ralims or the stock HEX file.

I would really like to get my old iron working, but i don't know how to get this stock firmware flashed back onto this iron. At this point i'm ready to just throw it in the trash, but at the same time i'm not trying to spend hundreds of dollars to take courses to learn how to do this just for a $70 soldering iron. I just wish someone who knows how to do this, could explain to me what i need to do in dummy form. I'm not expecting you to do it for me....i just need to know what files or software i need to try and get this iron working again. Now if this is a windows 10 issue holding me back from doing this, well then i guess i've got other bigger issues holding me back.

— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/issues/298?email_source=notifications&email_token=AENBU7PBLTFT723DZJW2IVDQPTQIJA5CNFSM4E7KWE22YY3PNVWWK3TUL52HS4DFVREXG43VMVBW63LNMVXHJKTDN5WW2ZLOORPWSZGOEBYWKTI#issuecomment-544302413, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AENBU7NTGKE3Z3FFPFGJLDTQPTQIJANCNFSM4E7KWE2Q .

--

-+-+-+-+- Jenny Everywhere's Infinite: Quark Time http://quarktime.net

[Jasonstewart81]

So has anyone used this to flash stock firmware back on to their ts100? I mean, it's directly from the maker of these STM32 microcontrollers ain't it? Or is this not the correct software for doing this?

[Jasonstewart81]

Okay. This is my last and final comment as I'm sure most of you will be thrilled to not hear from me anymore. I'm done trying. I'll just enjoy my new ts100 when it arrives tomorrow and I'll be throwing this old one away. I have no patience for this damn thing anymore. I'm only making matters worse at this point. Tried playing around with Zadig to load different drivers onto the ts100 and now it's recognized as a "STM32 mass storage" in device manager even with it saying "DFU:3.43" on the ts100. I throw in the towel, I surrender, I give up. At least I have my Hakko fx-888d, an old Weller 100/140 bulky buzzer iron, and I'll have my new ts100 tomorrow. I do appreciate all of your help, but I just can't deal with it anymore and sorry for my attitude. I'm just frustrated is all because it always seems like regardless of me following the step by step instructions even with something so simplistic like this it never works in my favor, but for others it does. I'm just done. Thanks everyone.

[whitehoose]

Well at least you are consistent. Why would a real engineer throw ANYTHING away that might be usable for spares? Or you just might have a flash of inspiration or log on here by mistake and see your exact problem + a confirmed fix. and you'll never know in in the cool light of day if your epiphany would have worked - because you've chucked it. If you use leaded solder at worst you could use the corpse's tip as a pencil. Or you could post it to me (I'll pay for the stamp and brown paper!). And I'll report back in technicolor detail how I fixed it. Whatever .. don't be rash - hang on before you do something else ill conceived, ridiculously impulsive and badly thought out to that poor iron.

Another thought for anyone (Ralim?) - Just noticed that the iron in question is the Sain Smart pro32!!!!!!!! Is this just a knockoff or re-badged mini ts100 clone - or is it a fundamentally different beast in the same handle? Wrong or incompatible firmware might account for a device with similar but different hardware not working with firmware for the mini TS100 as posted. I've seen "insignificant" hardware changes render low level code useless on a number of occasions.

[huynhdesign]

Well at least you are consistent. Why would a real engineer throw ANYTHING away that might be usable for spares? Or you just might have a flash of inspiration or log on here by mistake and see your exact problem + a confirmed fix. and you'll never know in in the cool light of day if your epiphany would have worked - because you've chucked it. If you use leaded solder at worst you could use the corpse's tip as a pencil. Or you could post it to me (I'll pay for the stamp and brown paper!). And I'll report back in technicolor detail how I fixed it. Whatever .. don't be rash - hang on before you do something else ill conceived, ridiculously impulsive and badly thought out to that poor iron.

Another thought for anyone (Ralim?) - Just noticed that the iron in question is the Sain Smart pro32!!!!!!!! Is this just a knockoff or re-badged mini ts100 clone - or is it a fundamentally different beast in the same handle? Wrong or incompatible firmware might account for a device with similar but different hardware not working with firmware for the mini TS100 as posted. I've seen "insignificant" hardware changes render low level code useless on a number of occasions.

I am very sad, because my ts100 has BL Flash like in the case of # Jasonstewart81, my ts100 has been faulty for 2 years. and I followed the article to fix it myself. I haven't fixed it yet. I am a designer and I'm not a programmer. I am from Vietnam and I am not fluent in English. I had to ask for google translate

please help me, BL flash error

[Jasonstewart81]

I just broke down and bought a new one. I'm sure this Ralim firmware works great, but unfortunately in my and other people's case it has not. I didn't throw my old SainSmart pro32 (ts100) away in hopes that one day someone will provide detailed instructions on what to download and how to go through the process of getting BRICKED ts100's working again. Until then I'll just keep using my new stock ts100 as is. I'm afraid to even try a custom boot screen like I did to my other one. Seems like the minute you plug it into the computer "POOF" the firmware is gone.

[Jasonstewart81]

And like I said in a previous comment. I honestly don't know if it's a windows 10 thing or the firmware itself. I'm guessing it's a windows 10 thing honestly and because I'm not a super computer genius, I'm definitely not going for round 3 of trying to flash the firmware over again and bricking a third ts100 that works just fine.

[fricy]

My hunch: It's your windows. Or most likely that POS Norton suite I saw installed on some screenshot. If I were you, I'd try flashing stock or Ralin 2.04 on your supposedly dead iron using another PC. It's not normal that you killed two TS100, something is wrong with your computer.

[Ralim]

@Jasonstewart81 It's almost 100% certain that it's your computer that is the issue. Please just try using another computer that DOES NOT have anti-virus like Norton that man in the middle's every file transfer.

I've loaded plenty of firmware images using Windows 10, it works fine so long as you dont mess with it (by installing MITM software). All firmware development up until 2.05 was performed on Windows 10, it works totally fine. If anything is trashing your firmware, its software you have on your computer.

[Jasonstewart81]

That Norton isn't even active. I even tried disabling all windows built in firewall and anti-virus software and still couldn't flash anything. All I ever get is what the original question that was asked happening. I can TRY on my laptop with windows 10, but I doubt it. I'd have to save the hex file to a thumb drive and transfer it that way because for some reason the wifi on my laptop died. Doesn't recognize the hardware for it anymore.

[Ralim]

@Jasonstewart81 If Norton is installed it keeps its hook in the OS active. Even if its not active.

Generally if a computer has had Norton installed at any point in time then it wont work as those hooks just get left behind.

Usually the trick here is people use a friends computer or work computer that hasnt had MITM stuff installed.

[Jasonstewart81]

Sorry, but what is MITM stuff? I'm assuming (Microsoft ___).

[whitehoose]

Firstly Jason dont even think about trying tis on Iron no3 - this is intended ONLY to recover your already messed up iron. - you have the perfect subject for experimentation - and its almost impossible to make it worse - it can only get better.

Another alternative to struggling with windows is use a linux live CD (actually a dvd). My recommendation would be linux mint - it's almost a windows clone and is intended for people who are curious about linux but who aren't willing to dedicate their lives to computers. It's about as simple as it gets.

download the mint Cinnamon ISO (32 or 64bit) (https://linuxmint.com/download.php) download Rufus or Windows USB/DVD Download Tool ( see https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/10-tools-make-bootable-usb-iso-file/). either burn the DVD or make a USB bootable. by transferring the ISO to DVD or USB using any of the tools in the article (Rufus would be my choice). You can then use your bootable device to start your PC without involving (or endangering) your windows install.

Linux Mint is ready to use as is - you don't need to add anything else - not even a virus checker, because you aren't going online (and arguably linux doesn't need it).

Once you are up and running you can try (re)flashing your broken iron(s?) without windows.

All it costs is an hour of your time and (possibly) a DVD. If you use a USB memory stick - just reformat when done.

A linux option is always handy to have around when trying to prove if a problem is windows or hardware related.

[Jasonstewart81]

I may try that on the old iron. I have absolutely NO plan to try it on my new one. Now my question is the last time I was screwing around with the old iron it showed up in device manager as "STM mass storage" if I remember correctly. Does it actually matter what it's being recognized as or as long as I am able to at least drop the hex file in the root of the visible drive will it work or do I need to somehow get a bootloader back on it and then flash firmware. That's where I'm stuck is not know the correct process from start to end. I wish I could just completely wipe this old iron clean of anything on it and start from scratch.

[whitehoose]

Jason, just reading your comments - notice you say your WiFi stopped working (after an update perchance)? Just a stab in the dark. There is a hierarchy to driver updates. Suggest you visit either your machine's manufacturer's support site and download their driver for your machine in preference to the chip mfr's site. If the machine was a bundle - visit the machine vendor's support site and download from them - it's important to get the driver package that's specifically for your make and model - F'rinstance If its an intel wifi card on an Asus machine sold by the Computer Barn you should initially go to the computer barn for updates and not the chip or machine mfr as large retailers often heavily customise packages in order to tie you to their brand. remove the drivers - reboot - (windows will re-detect the hardware - decline the install) - manually install the driver package - reboot. Log on and log into your router. Whether you then allow windows update to maintain your driver is up to you. In most cases if the device is working and the driver is 8 years old DON't PANIC - the important thing is its working .... not that you saw a driver with today's date - don't be tempted unless you know how to recover.

Using a linux live distro would be a good way to prove if your problem is a hardware problem or caused by a rogue driver. (Linux will usually load the correct driver on startup without prompting).