Open rgleason opened 6 years ago
The formula is over simplified I think.
Example: http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/waves/Lesson-2/The-Wave-Equation The wavelength must be 8 meters (see diagram). The period is 3 seconds so the frequency is 1 / T or 0.333 Hz. Now use speed = f • wavelength Substituting and solving for v, you will get 2.67 m/s.
Another Example: http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/waves/Lesson-2/The-Wave-Equation The wavelength is 8.6 meters and the period is 6.2 seconds. The frequency can be determined from the period. If T = 6.2 s, then f =1 /T = 1 / (6.2 s) f = 0.161 Hz Now find speed using the v = f • λ equation. v = f • λ = (0.161 Hz) • (8.6 m) v = 1.4 m/s
Ocean wave speed Also depends on depth https://www.google.com/search?q=ocean+wave+speed&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiM8eT3n-jZAhUJnFkKHd5oAPsQsAQIzQE&biw=986&bih=388
A good PDF showing formulas and diagrams. http://www.utdallas.edu/~mitterer/Oceanography/pdfs/OCEChapt09.pdf
Calculator http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Sound/wavplt.html
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Waves/watwav2.html#c1
Shallow water waves: When waves enter shallow water:
The constant value of 3.03 is somewhere / sometimes about right, and the formula 3.03 (or some value around this) x wave period = wave speed is about right.
I have not checked this, but the output speeds don't look right. To do Check the formula and how it calculates. Verify against another source