Connecting router

[TRUDIM]

What am I not connecting right as it seems that I am not able to turn my router on/off using M3/M5 commands? I can hear the relay inside the xPro click but the router does not turn on. What I am using to connect the router to the xPro is an old power socket where the router is plugged in (did not wanted to cut the plug on the router) and that goes into the controller via TOOLHEAD's ground and power.

I see that there is an IoT relay used in the illustrations but is that the only way?!?

[Mboss32]

Could you upload a picture of your setup?

[TRUDIM]

There it is. It's just a temporaty setup until everything works as it should!

[Mboss32]

Thanks - that connection is a 0-5V pwm output. This is a control signal typically used to either trigger a relay (like the IoT) or to drive a DC speed controller or VFD. This output will not be able to power a router.

Instead of the IoT Relay you could also use a Solid State Relay.

[TRUDIM]

So in my understanding an SSR of this type will do the job? Wouldn't that be an overkill at 60A? Or maybe it won't get that hot? It will probably be good idea to install a heat sink.

[Spark-Concepts]

[TRUDIM]

At possition 1 on the SSR I have to hook it up to a power outlet? SSR controlls the router through ground or phase (don't think it matters)? Does the higher current SSR means lower temperature?

[Spark-Concepts]

Correct,

SSRs are able to switch the "ON" and "OFF" state of a load very quickly, through the electronic circuit, just like the function of traditional mechanical relays.

When compared with the Electromechanical relay, there are no movable mechanical parts inside the SSR, and there is also no mechanical action during the switching process of the SSR. Therefore, the Solid-State Relay is also called a "non-contact switch".

The main advantages of solid state relays are as follows:

• The semiconductor component acts as a switch for the relay, which is compact in size and has a relatively long lifetime

• Better Electro-Magnetic Compatibility than a electromechanical relay; immunity to Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) and Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI), low electromagnetic interference, and low electromagnetic radiation

• No moving parts, no mechanical wear, no action noise, no mechanical failure, and high reliability

• No spark, no arc, no burning, no contact bounce, and no wear between contacts

• High sensitivity; low electrical level (3.3V) control signals (SSR can directly drive large current loads through the small current control signals such as logic circuits (TTL, CMOS, DTL, HTL circuits), and easy to implement multiple functions

Wiring a SSR:

1. Leave the neutral (ground) wire uncut from your power cord
2. Cut 120V/220V Line (HOT) and connect to Position 1 and 2 connect in series with your 120V/220VAC Line (or Phase) - polarity of 1 and 2 is NOT important since we're controlling AC voltage
3. Wire position 3 (+) to "EN" (spindle enable) and 4 (-) to GND on the xProV5 - polarity IS important for 3 and 4

note: make sure to verify the the voltage ratings and position numbers on the SSR as yours may be configured/labeled differently

Function:

• The EN pin on the xProV5 outputs a +3.3V when the spindle is commanded
• With the 3.3V low voltage/low current DC signal is applied to positions 3 and 4 (voltage and ground) on the SSR, Position 1 and 2 essentially make contact thus providing power to your router.
• When the 3.3V is removed, Position 1 and 2 open, effectively removing voltage from your router

Higher Amperage means lower ON resistance (thus higher efficiency and less heat) - when the SSR is triggered "ON" - make sure its rated above what router is rated at. Also, make sure to may attention to the min and max - the minimum "Input" side needs to be rated to 3-3.2V min, otherwise the SSR wont trigger

[TRUDIM]

That's some great info! Thank you! I'll get two SSR's right away! So in order to automate the dust extraction I have to do the same hook up but at COOL output?

Regards, Dimitar

[Spark-Concepts]

TRUDIM,

To answer your question, yes, you would do the same hook up, but to the COOL output - the input to the SSR illustrated below is rated for 3 - 32VDC; thus either 5V or 24V is within the specifications on this SSR - in other words the jumper₁ position setting is irrelevant

make sure the maximum SSR output voltage and current/power rating appropriate for you application. AC line voltage (220VAC in your case; the req current 'amp rating' will depend on your Load)

[TRUDIM]

Allright!

I got the relays, made a quick setup to see if everything works and got an issue. When I engage M3 or M7 the relays are both outputting 240V, oddly when I plug in the Roüter11 in any of the two EU sockets the router starts working on impulses. The whole thing just pulsates and is not running smoothly (like I am rapidly switching it on and off). If plugged in a normal wall socket it works as it should. This problem occurs with other tools but is barely noticeable!

Made a quick video for better illustration of the problem. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K5bbKMFTtgrnaZ7H0XmYZfkh5KdnADoF/view?usp=sharing

[Spark-Concepts]

TRUDIM,

If you don't mind move the "MIST" jumper₁ over to 24V as shown below and see if you're still getting the pulsations when triggering the COOL output - however some lesser quality SSRs can give trouble with larger inductive loads (as the current lags the voltage). If you're still having issues which is very likely, you could try adding a varistor (MOV) across terminals 1 and 2 with a rated withstand voltage of 350 - 420VAC. Alternatively you could eliminate one of the SSR's and connect your router to the xPro's onboard relay as shown at the very bottom (assuming your router draws less than 10A @ 250VAC).

[TRUDIM]

Installed one of these: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/2135/S14K385_amp.php

Didn't change the router behavior. Will try connecting it to the on board relay. Might also get a more expensive SSR. The one I got was really cheap conpared to others...