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arendst / Tasmota

Alternative firmware for ESP8266 and ESP32 based devices with easy configuration using webUI, OTA updates, automation using timers or rules, expandability and entirely local control over MQTT, HTTP, Serial or KNX. Full documentation at
https://tasmota.github.io/docs
GNU General Public License v3.0
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Lyasi/Meamor bulbs #1822

Closed Jolanrensen closed 5 years ago

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

So I bought a Lyasi bulb on Amazon since it also had an ESP8266 chip to try if I could get Tasmota to run on it. However when opening it I was greeted by the lack of Rx/Tx etc contact points. Photo album As you can see only the (gp)io0, (gp)io2 and RET (whatever that might be, Rest? Rx?) are available. Others might be as well where the green board is soldered to the blue one, but this is unlabled so I don't know. Is it possible to flash Tasmota using only those ports? And if so, how? Or does anyone know the layout of the board? The bulbs are btw based on the Tuya protocol out of the box.

reloxx13 commented 6 years ago

google esp8266 pins solder cables to the vcc,rx,tx,gnd pins directly on the chip flash

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

I would do that, however as you can see in the pictures the Rx/Tx pins on the top right of the chip are behind that cylinder thing. I can't properly see it, let alone solder a cable to it... I did however get a response from Lyasi themselves and they probably will send me the board schematics (after the Chinese new year)

samuscherer commented 6 years ago

Hey, did you receive the schematics? If so, do you think it's possible to upload them so we all can have a look at how the bulb is build? Thanks!

helmar74 commented 6 years ago

Depending on your Picture, I think I have the same bulb: https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/2293

It's running Tasmota and I controll white LED, but not the RGB. Good informations can be found: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/cheap-uk-wifi-bulbs-with-tasmota-teardown-help-tywe3s/40508/39

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

I think the AI light is slightly different as it does have labeled pins on the top, right? Mine almost has no labeled pins, so I asked Lyasi and got a specsheet from them. I'll try to flash tasmota on it in a week or so. Any idea how to backup the current software btw?

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

So I found the time to try to flash tasmota on the Lyasi bulb, but, I'm running into a bit of a problem. First of all, the board appears to be ESP8266EX, which should be okay I guess. But when I install it onto the bulb (the installation succeeds), it won't connect to the wifi network I entered. Reading the serial logs: 00:00:00 Project sonoff4 Sonoff (Topic sonoff4, Fallback DVES_2C1032, GroupTopic sonoffs) Version 5.12.0 bcn 0 del if1 usl mode : sta(dc:4f:22:2c:10:32) add if0 00:00:00 WIF: Connecting to AP2 Jolan in mode 11N as sonoff4-4146... wifi evt: 8 scandone no Jolan found, reconnect after 1s wifi evt: 1 STA disconnect: 201 reconnect scandone no Jolan found, reconnect after 1s This is all while my phone is sending out said wifi network (on 2.4G of course) lying right next to the bulb... Ideas? Here's the link to the spec sheet btw https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0OEeK5SfttfQWxSc0YxNkptcnYwZkRPWHNDdFlaTTdWTnBn/view?usp=sharing Edit: so I just found out that when I flashed back the original software (it didn't work, but that's not relevant), two blue lights appeared on the board next to the wifi antenna. They do not appear on the tasmota version. Might it be that the wifi adapter is relocated and tasmota can't find it?

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

Using esptool and the latest sonoff.bin I managed to get the server running! However, the lamp won't stop blinking, which makes sense as it's an unknown device. Edit: So, how should I go from here? In the spec sheet it's shown which gpio ports control r/g/b etc but I don't know how to make tasmota control them Edit2: I tried setting it to generic device, but I don't seem to have contact to any of the led's. I tried setting a PWM to all the gpio's but none seem to react. And when I screw the bulb in a socket it doesn't blink, instead it shows just white with a hint of blue...

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

well rip, I think I created a short circuit trying to see which lines correspond to which leds XD I have no contact with the chip whatsoever and the leds only turn on through the main power supply, skipping the esp chip

samuscherer commented 6 years ago

Sounds like you fried your chip 😆 Do you think you'll get a new one or just buy a non-lyasi bulb?

ascillato commented 6 years ago

Hi,

There is still interest on supporting this Bulb?

Anyone is working in a PR ?

helmar74 commented 6 years ago

Maybe this helps: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/cheap-uk-wifi-bulbs-with-tasmota-teardown-help-tywe3s/40508/39

ascillato commented 6 years ago

Have you make it work?

Jolanrensen commented 6 years ago

Personally I stopped trying as Home assistant now has native support for Tuya lights, so I just use it that way. But feel free to try yourself as the bulbs aren't that expensive

ascillato2 commented 6 years ago

Hi,

As nobody is working in a driver for this and now this lights are being supported directly by HA softwares, this issue is being closed.

Please, If someone is interested in working on a driver, please, ask to reopen. Thanks.

blawford commented 6 years ago

So I have just flashed Tasmota to one of these bulbs. I can access the web interface but having no luck getting any light out of the bulb.

The spec says that the LED channels are:

IO12 (R), IO15 (G), IO13 (B), IO4 (W)

I have set the module type to '18 Generic' and set the channel configuration as follows:

GIO12 = 37 PWM 1 GIO15 = 38 PWM 2 GIO13 = 39 PWM 3 GIO4 = 40 PWM 4

Having had no luck there I tried setting each individual pin to '40 PWM 4' one at a time and restarting to see whether it would turn on white, but nothing.

Bulb is reporting status on MQTT but no light. Anyone any idea on how I configure it?

blawford commented 6 years ago

@ascillato - Could this be reopened? I would be interested in working on this further.

andrethomas2 commented 6 years ago

@blawford Enlighten us ;)

blawford commented 6 years ago

@blawford Enlighten us ;)

Haha, I didn't say I had any clue as to what the problem was!

I have got a bit further than the OP, he also thought that the WiFi may have been handled off-chip and not supported by the Tasmota firmware. I haven't found this to be the case as I can access the Tasmota web interface on my device after flashing.

I am therefore hoping that it might just be a case of configuring the module correctly, rather than having to write any new code (although I am willing to give that a try if need be). I have detailed 3 posts up what I have tried and was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction of what to do next? I am guessing that the LED channels are driven by another chip on the board? Otherwise I would have seen some life out of the bulb with what I have tried already? Is that situation workable from what is already included in the firmware?

The (translated) spec for the chip is here , but I am not seeing anything in there I can use to help me configure the module, but I don't have much experience in reading such things, could someone give it a look?

Many thanks!

andrethomas commented 6 years ago

For starters, some high resolution pictures of the PCB that the LEDs are on from the front and then from the back (same flat PCB) so we can try to see what is going on there - the other PCB which seems to be 90 degrees with the one that the LEDs are mounted on is probably the power supply but lets have high-resolution photos of those on both sides also so we can see what we could be dealing with. I looked at the photos posted in the first post but they do not provide enough detail to provide more information from my perspective.

blawford commented 6 years ago

Will see what I can do.

Did you have a look at the spec pdf? Does it help at all?

Didn't see anything too helpful on there.

chaosmaster commented 6 years ago

@blawford The OP mentions it uses the tuya protocol. Have you tried selecting the "54 Tuya Dimmer" in module configuration? If it indeed uses the tuya protocol it should probably at least allow switching on and off and controlling one channel. Weblog 4 should also give some info.

ascillato commented 6 years ago

Seems that supporting this bulb is more complicated. See comment https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/2293#issuecomment-378021008

So, as now some automation softwares has native support for this bulb, seems that not worth to spend a lot of time making Tasmota to work on this. @blawford, it is up to you.

chaosmaster commented 6 years ago

I was under the impression, this is a different Bulb (it doesn't use a TYWE3S). Although it still might use the same implementation. Does this one have a SM16726/SM16716 as the other one apparently does?

@ascillato native support means using the manufacturers cloud? I wouldn't really consider this an alternative.

blawford commented 6 years ago

@blawford The OP mentions it uses the tuya protocol. Have you tried selecting the "54 Tuya Dimmer" in module configuration? If it indeed uses the tuya protocol it should probably at least allow switching on and off and controlling one channel. Weblog 4 should also give some info.

Definitely had it fully working with the Tuya app before I flashed it. I have just updated OTA to 6.3 but still nothing after choosing '54 Tuya Dimmer' with the same pin configuration as I mentioned above, also tried the one on this page.

andrethomas commented 6 years ago

I think I saw some Tuya stuff added to the development codebase which was not included in the 6.3.0 release.

Have you tried the pre-compiled development binary from http://thehackbox.org/tasmota/sonoff.bin

blawford commented 5 years ago

I think I saw some Tuya stuff added to the development codebase which was not included in the 6.3.0 release.

Have you tried the pre-compiled development binary from http://thehackbox.org/tasmota/sonoff.bin

Tried it after you mentioned it, not sure how I should be configuring it but tried the Tuya Dimmer and Generic modules, no luck either way.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

Ok, so we wait for nice photos so we can see whats going on.

blawford commented 5 years ago

Ok, so we wait for nice photos so we can see whats going on.

@andrethomas - I have done my best here. Some with a phone camera some with a a DSLR. Taking macro photos is difficult! Let me know if you need more detail of anything.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UtXzHos3nA2CU8dB9

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

Definitely ESP8266 as can be seen in the photos

image

As you can see there is a air gap in the PC board which seperates the AC (High voltage) side from the DC (Low voltage side)

The pins that are being used to control the device is soldered from the seperate pc board on which the ESP8266 chip is mounted - I marked it bottom left in above image.

ESP8266 chip with the SPI flash chip is clearly visible here:

image

Given the part number of the SPI Flash it is 1M (which is to be expected)

This guy here, circled in red, is what you identified as part number MY9291QD is the driver chip for the LED's - Manufacturer link: http://www.my-semi.com.tw/content/products/product_mean.aspx?id=6 and a not so complete datasheet to be found here: http://www.my-semi.com.tw/file/MY9291_BF_0.91.pdf

image

So basically you need to do the following:

  1. Figure out which pins of the ESP8266 are brought down to the main board via the soldered join posted in my first image.
  2. Figure out how they are connected to the MY9291QD chip.
  3. Research if you can find anything else using a ESP8266 and this chip from a circuit and/or code perspective to get insight as to how to interface with it.

I think depending on the outcome of point 3 there is a good chance this one can be made to run Tasmota.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

image

So there will be data comming from the ESP8266 on only two pins for DI (data) and DCKI (data clock input)

They would not have used normal serial - this chip will have some two wire protocol that it uses.

I marked the pins of interest with BLUE circles on the diagram, and blue lines on the chip footprint itself. Those pins should match up to two of the soldered connection to the ESP8266 board. The pushbutton visible in the previous posts last image is most likely connected to GPIO0 so there is a good change that (VCC, GND, GPIO0, RX, TX) and (DI,DCKI) will be among those 8 solder joins from the ESP8266 board to the main board.

If you have a multimeter with diode-test (that function that beeps when you connect the two probes to test for continueity) you should be able to map them out with some luck.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

Links of potential interest: http://supersimo88.altervista.org/ailight-an-esp8266-rgbw-light-bulb/

And here is what appears to be a arduino driver library for the LED controller chip https://github.com/xoseperez/my9291

arendst commented 5 years ago

My9291 is being used by both Tasmota AiLight and Sonoff B1 modules!

Did you try the AiLight or Sonoff B1 module?

blawford commented 5 years ago

My9291 is being used by both Tasmota AiLight and Sonoff B1 modules!

Did you try the AiLight or Sonoff B1 module?

Yes, I found the same doing some Googling the MY9291. No I haven't tried either of them.

I will attempt to but the bulb back together and give it a try, not entirely sure how I go about reconnecting to the threaded part of the E27 connector but I'm sure I will work it out.

arendst commented 5 years ago

Before putting it all together perhaps you can manage to find out the correct GPIO connections to the My9291 chip ;-)

The interface only uses two GPIOs. AiLight uses GPIO13 for DI and GPIO15 for DCK Sonoff B1 uses GPIO12 for DI and GPIO14 for DCK

You might be able to measure no resistance between pins 15/16 of the My9291 chip to any of the GPIOs of the ESP8266.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

@blawford Did you make any further progress?

blawford commented 5 years ago

Unfortunately not, upon trying to get enough access to solder where I needed for reassembly, long story short, the bulb is never going back together!

With that said, I was assuming I should just be able to connect the red/black leads of the bulb to live/neutral on a cable with a plug on the end and have it work as if it was connected in the lamp holder? I did try this briefly and saw no signs of life from the bulb, so it is possibly bricked.

I would like to get it up and running so this hasn't all been for nothing! For the sake of others if not my own. Might consider buying another bulb too as access for soldering wasn't too difficult. If I am unable to verify this as working I would probably give up on it and just buy a Sonoff B1.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

Its not possible to brick the ESP chip, if that is what you mean by bricked.

Also, did you by chance manage to check the pin map with a multi-meter as recommended by @arendst ?

It quite possibly is compatible with either the AiLight or the B1.

blawford commented 5 years ago

Its not possible to brick the ESP chip, if that is what you mean by bricked.

I had to remove a capacitor to get to the pins on one of the chips, so it could have been something around doing that which has caused the problem.

Tried to check the pins with a multimeter, I wouldn't be able to say with enough certainty what was connected to what, the chips are so small! I possibly have a rough enough idea that I might be able to try the combinations if I can get the bulb up and running again though.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

I have a modified set of leads for my multimeter that has normal sewing pins soldered to the end so that I can test in high density areas.

These kind of pins: image

arendst commented 5 years ago

But how do you fix these pins to the device?

I have “pogopins” also soldered to wires but still have to find an easy way to connect them to the device. Currently they are just present; never used.

https://www.banggood.com/nl/100pcs-P75-E2-Spring-Test-Probe-Pogo-Pin-Dia_-1_02mm-Pin-Tool-p-1247554.html?gmcCountry=NL&currency=EUR&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=2zou&utm_campaign=pla-all2-nl-dutch-pc&gclid=Cj0KCQiA597fBRCzARIsAHWby0HT4ksCenLUKidZKScnxfdra76Y_pFjXNkkJUl8wbU0PHTnvYpkToUaAsrgEALw_wcB&ID=41299&cur_warehouse=CN

blawford commented 5 years ago

But how do you fix these pins to the device?

I don't think he does, just soldered to his multi-meter to give something much thinner than the metal tips it comes with.

andrethomas commented 5 years ago

Yeah, it is just soldered onto the end of the multi meter leads to have super thin probes that can test pins and pcb traces down to 0.4mm pitch no problem.

ascillato commented 5 years ago

@blawford

Hi,

Any news on this? There is anything where we can help?

ascillato2 commented 5 years ago

@blawford

Hi,

Any news on this? There is anything where we can help?

andrethomas2 commented 5 years ago

Closing this one until there is more feedback.

janrueth commented 5 years ago

I got the same bulb. I just opened it up and removed the capacitor to get access to the ESP and the my9291. It seems that my9291 DCKI maps to PIN 24 (GPIO 5) and my9291 DI maps to PIN 16 (GPIO 4). When looking at the image posted before where the ESP pins are highlighted in yellow, these are the pins to the top right corner with DCKI being the rightmost.

Since it is the first time for me to fiddle with the tasmota firmware, can anyone hint me at how to get this into the firmware? Is the sonoff_template.h the right starting place (for the beginning I just wanted to modify the B1 or the AiLight). How are the pins numbered within the tasmota firmware? Do I need to simply move the GPIO_DI and GPIO_DCKI to the GPIO 4 and 5 position in the file?

janrueth commented 5 years ago

So, short update, I got the stuff compiled. The light works flawlessly with the AiLight on GPIO 4 and GPIO 5, the B1 does not work properly, so it seems the bulb is a LT_RGBW.

janrueth commented 5 years ago

So, I would be happy to contribute this, but there are two solutions to this.

A: The strawman solution is kind of copying the AiLight module and creating a new one with the modified pin assignment.

B: The, in my opinion, better solution would be to enable the selection of the bulb type and DI and DCKI pin assignment via the web interface, this would allow to collapse all my9192-based bulbs into a single module. However, I'm not really familiar with the firmware and how one would do this, from quickly looking at some files it seems that such a design is not intended.

So, I'm happy to contribute solution A. So please let me know if I should file a PR.

Apart form that I noticed that the colors are a bit off compared to the stock firmware. I saw that there seems to be some sort of color correction via ledTable, how is that table generated, is that somehow dumped from the original firmware?

Edit: for reference, here is a change to 6.4.1 adding this as a module: https://pastebin.com/0aWxp9ZQ

victorChB commented 5 years ago

Is this still

So, I would be happy to contribute this, but there are two solutions to this.

A: The strawman solution is kind of copying the AiLight module and creating a new one with the modified pin assignment.

B: The, in my opinion, better solution would be to enable the selection of the bulb type and DI and DCKI pin assignment via the web interface, this would allow to collapse all my9192-based bulbs into a single module. However, I'm not really familiar with the firmware and how one would do this, from quickly looking at some files it seems that such a design is not intended.

So, I'm happy to contribute solution A. So please let me know if I should file a PR.

Apart form that I noticed that the colors are a bit off compared to the stock firmware. I saw that there seems to be some sort of color correction via ledTable, how is that table generated, is that somehow dumped from the original firmware?

Edit: for reference, here is a change to 6.4.1 adding this as a module: https://pastebin.com/0aWxp9ZQ

Is this still the same for release 6.5.0 ? I mean do I have to modify the pins in the firmware and flash it? or can I use the web interface, because I see that there are two options for the GPIOs (my92x1 DI (143) my92x1 DCKI (144)) but havent been able to control the Lyasi bulb.