S26 Smart Plug support

[CoarsePiglet]

Hello

Smart On Off just recently released the S26 Smart Plug. It's a new version of the S20 Smart Plug. I see support is not yet added for this. So here's me requesting it.

Thank you in advance guys! Only now gonna start using your software but I have a feeling it will be great! ;)

[Jason2866]

Why do you think it is not compatible? Just try S20 as device. It looks like a design upgrade only...

[djwillis]

Popping the info here as it seems relevant.

The S26 is still an ESP8266 device and as Jason mentions it looks more like a board redesign to create smaller sockets.

Seems to work with the S20 setup on the same GPIO but more testing is needed. I have more on order to play with as this one got used in another project.

However it is not all good news. At least on the UK style model, the ESP8266 is moved off to a daughter board and the pads (no holes any more) for the serial and 3.3v are much smaller in pitch making soldering more of a pain.

It may mean these are much less desirable for tinkering than the S20's as flashing them is so easy for a DIY'er.

Attached are a few (bad, as I was in a rush) photos of the board.

[stewface]

Dam... the S26 is a bit smaller but more importantly its cheaper!

Keep us updated if support comes

[arendst]

As @djwillis suggested it might just work choosing module S20...

[freynder]

Hi, I can confirm it works without issues when choosing module S20. The pads are tiny and not easily accessible, so loading the firmware was a pain. I connected the power pins to the regulator output pins using test clips and soldered a wire to RX and TX. The button is connected to GPIO0 so can be used to enable the serial bootloader.

[fluppie]

I soldered some wires to them and installed a BME280 inside :). So when they run above 60 degrees I get a pushmessage that they caught fire :D. Ambient 22-23°C gives 30°C inside the Sonoff S26. 40°C when turned on with a 60W bulb.

[arendst]

Great pictures!!

My S26 is on the way. Glad it is supported already. When verified I'll update the readme and wiki.

[newzealandpaul]

@fluppie are they easy to disassemble? Are the RX and TX ports marked? I can't quite see in the photos. I am keen to purchase one.

[fluppie]

3 screws, so quite easy yes :). Only the solder pads are tiny, so it shouldn't be the first time that you solder :).

[newzealandpaul]

Perfect thanks for the photo!

[roguestreak]

Sorry to pseudo-hijack, but while we're discussing it can the plug/socket be inverted? Looking at the S26, for my specific purpose it wouldn't work as it would be "upside down" and not fit; From these and other photos it SEEMS like both the plug and socket could be rotated 180degrees, can anyone confirm or reject? OK if it needs longer wires soldered to achieve.

[TommySharpNZ]

@roguestreak I opened one up and it'd be easy enough to change the orientation.....

[arendst]

S26 fully supported in latest releases either as S20 or S2X.

[PJFonseca]

@fluppie thank you. With your images and 4 hours later ( i'm a n00b at soldering ) i did it :)

[vogler]

Might help someone: I had to increase the voltage from 3.3 to 3.4 V (or was it 3.6?) to get it into programming mode. Before that it didn't react. Probably depends on how well you soldered - although mine didn't look too bad 😄

[Jason2866]

The ESP is a 3.3 Volt device if your power supply for flashing is reliable there is no need to increase! I think your power supply does not deliever enough current. Maybe you use a FTDI device. The 3.3 Volt path are delivering only a few mA!! Try a extra power supply or use a CH340 Usb serial adapter

[vogler]

I used a Rigol DP832 for power, the current limit was at 500mA.

[Jason2866]

Nice Power Supply. Why have you limit current at 500mA? Just connect the power wires correct and safe and use 3.3V No current limit needed. The device takes only the current which it needs! Before you power on connect GPIO to GND. Urgent keep Gnd from power supply, device and serial adapter always connected. Put serial adapter in usb port. Now power via Rigol with 3.3V. Start flash process. After flash power off and disconnect Gpio0 from Gnd. Disconnect rx and tx connection. Unplug serial adapter. Power on Rigol. S26 will work, just relais wont switch (5v are missing) Disconnect everything and reassemble.

[vogler]

Safety? I didn't check what the max current draw was, but 500mA should be more than enough, no? I think it was 0.3 mA powered down and ~34 mA after I got it into programming mode.

I just wanted to share that I had to increase the voltage. First I thought I fried it somehow. Maybe it was the breadboard/cables.

[Kedryn]

I'm using an arduino as a programmer (as i did with all sonoff basic i have), but i can't get the S26 in programming mode. Does the led has to stay off? mine is blinkning no matter what.

[ichbinrodolf]

@vogler, I'm about to flash my S26 and read that CH340G doesn't deliver enough current as you seem to confirm. Can you explain how you did increase the voltage ?

[Jason2866]

@ichbinrodolf The CH340 should deliver enough power (current) FTDI devices are not suitable

[Kedryn]

I managed to flash it using CH340 + external power supply. Now i'm facing another problem. Even before i first test it after flashing, it felt off my desk. The little electric transformator broke. Does anyone have a close up photo of the front part where it's soldered to the board? i need to check if i can solder it's filaments again. Or, anyone knows where i can buy a new one?

[freynder]

I hope this helps.

[Kedryn]

A bit, but i need a closer and more "front" photo of this. If possible, from the side where you see "T1" on the board.

[freynder]

Hi, Ok, here it is under a magnifying glass. Best I can do with my cam. Best of luck.

[Kedryn]

Thanks.. i have a bigger filament that i can sold to the other that got severed, but it seems that there are small filaments too that connects to the other pins... this is the condition i'm right now. Better way is if i find a replacement that i can put in place of this, but i think it will be hard.

[svh1985]

Does anybody know if it has 1M or 4M? And is it upgradable?

[wojked]

I have used a slightly recharged lipo (3.7V) as a power supply, otherwise I was not able to connect so the insufficient current might have been the reason indeed.

[fluppie]

@svh1985 1MB, mine is running Tasmota 6.1.1 and gives this info:

Flash Size	1024kB
Program Flash Size	1024kB
Program Size	536kB
Free Program Space	464kB
Free Memory	16kB

[tam481]

hi all, I'm using a CH340 USB Serial Adapter. I have two Sonoff S26 sockets. I managed to flash one by connecting the power to the VCC port but I cannot get the second one to enter flash mode no matter what I do. I even used a step-down regulator and connected it to the 5v pin to no avail. Connecting it to the 3.3v pin does not work and connecting it to the VCC pin makes it heat up and still does not work. The same happened with the step-down regulator. It just heats up and nothing else happens.

It is still working as I can connect it to a power socket and control it via the eWeLink app. I just cannot flash Tasmota. I don't have a professional power device so is there anything else that I can use?

[freynder]

Hi,

There is an AMS1117 LDO regulator on the board. I would suggest connecting the ground and input pins with the 5V output and ground output of your USB Serial adapter.

You can find the datasheet here: http://www.advanced-monolithic.com/pdf/ds1117.pdf . Pins 1 and 3 are ground and Vin respectively.

On Sun, Sep 2, 2018 at 7:18 PM tam481 notifications@github.com wrote:

hi all, I'm using a CH340 USB Serial Adapter. I have two Sonoff S26 sockets. I managed to flash one by connecting the power to the VCC port but I cannot get the second one to enter flash mode no matter what I do. I even used a step-down regulator and connected it to the 5v pin to no avail. Connecting it to the 3.3v pin does not work and connecting it to the VCC pin makes it heat up and still does not work. The same happened with the step-down regulator. It just heats up and nothing else happens.

It is still working as I can connect it to a power socket and control it via the eWeLink app. I just cannot flash Tasmota. I don't have a professional power device so is there anything else that I can use?

— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/2808#issuecomment-417945531, or mute the thread https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AF-eR8T340JL_ltxgUpwtpRe5bzhQ8NOks5uXBL6gaJpZM4UK1an .

[tam481]

@freynder Thank you very much indeed. That worked beautifully. I've managed to flash Tasmota successfully.

[ant-thomas]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but I successfully flashed 3 x S26 sockets a few days ago. My only issue is the Blue LED. Usually it flashes, I've managed to set it to permanently on using the "LedPower on" command. Is it possible to turn it off permanently?

[ascillato]

try commands ledpower and ledstate. please see for more information in the wiki

[nate131]

I bought 3 of these modules - was able to flash two of them using esptool (platformio was unable to upload the firmware).

Does anyone know the pinout for the esp daughterboard? I ripped one of the traces out accidentally and want to replace it with an esp-01. The mainboard of the S26 has the labels of J1-5 & J10 (6 connection points)

[ant-thomas]

@ascillato Unfortunately neither ledpower or ledstate permanently turn off the blue LED. I've resorted to covering the button with some black tape where needed.

[arendst]

And in addition set SetOption31 to 1 to get rid of wifi and/or mqtt connection failure blinks

[ant-thomas]

Great, thanks. Looks like that's one I need.

[ant-thomas]

After buying another 3 S26 sockets I decided to look at an easier way to flash. I designed and 3D printed a solderless type adapter to flash a bit easier. It's not perfect but does work I'll upload the STL soon. Also found that the 2 more difficult pads out of the 4 to solder are the 3V3 and GND. You can use alternative pads underneath J1 - 3V3 J2 - GND

[simweb-info]

ant-thomas - looks nice, do you have this stl file? would be great :) or maybe to find in thingiverse br

[alexmelSC]

Hi,

I'm trying to flash this with SonOTA but the ITEAD wifi won't come up (it came up once and never again). Anyone had any luck?

A

[TommySharpNZ]

I'm pretty sure the current Sonoff firmware doesn't allow OTA flashing anymore? V1.6 was the last version that worked I think...

[rzr]

ITEAD wifi

My undestanding that fw (2.6.0 at least) is not more using open AP but use some kind of promiscuous mode and get ssid/password by listening to multicast udp (from app):

https://www.reddit.com/r/sonoff/comments/9q49dq/beware_sonoff_s26_firmware_260_and_ewlinkapk_is/

[alexmelSC]

That sounds about right. Anyway happily using them via the EWElink app but just wish I had something to tinker with Home Automation. Will wait.

[h4knet]

Hello @alexmelSC @TommySharpNZ and @rzr, I'm pretty new to this world as I received yesterday my first Sonoff unit ever so I might not understand well what you are talking about..

What I can tell you is that I had some issue with getting the ITEAD WiFi SSID appearing for the first config of the unit but at the fourth try it worked and I was able to configure the socket to connect with my WiFi.

The firmware version showed up in the EWeLink app is 2.6.0. I didn't have to work with OTA at this time so I might be out of the scope of your discussion ^^

My two cents,

[gnomosg]

Hi, it took some time, but it works :) I used pogo pins: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100Pcs-Bag-Spring-Test-Probe-Pogo-Pin-P50-B1-Dia-0-5mm-Length-16-35mm/32845302540.html

[dugite-code]

A good write up on the espurna github solved my issues i.e. I wasn't pushing the button hard enough.

That was 3 hours wasted on a sticky button

[thomasleitner]

Hi Guys, great show here: I was able to flush two S26 with the latest ESPEasy software using the provided pictures above. At times a bit complicated to put it in flash mode but with some fiddling (connect everything except USB, push button and simultaneously connect USB, release button) it works. Now my problem is: After re-assembling both S26, only one of them works: The blue LED is lit and it connects to the Wifi. For the other one: No blue LED, not Wifi. I re-opened it, resoldered power and reconnected 3.3V and it works great. Only when assembled and connected to the mains, it does NOT work. I've double checked all connections internally, checked soldering etc. but no avail. Any educated guesses out there what the problem could be? Thanks // Tom

[rzr]

@thomasleitner , Can you see any difference between the two, can you at least try to revert to original firmware ? I have one S26 that was just paired once.