new hardware Teckin SP22 v1.4

[Clooney82]

Hello together,

just bought a 4pack of Teckin SP22 because, I knew they were identical to Blitzwolf SHP2 / Gosund SP1. I´ll got them yesterday an recognized that there is a new Version of them out now.

1. The are no more screwed together
2. New HW Layout. TYWE2S based

Layout of new HW:

TYWE2S:

Details:

Good new is, that i managed to get them to work. For flashing I used this page: https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/CE-Smart-Home---LA-WF3-Wifi-Plug-(TYWE2S)

For basic feature I used a generic board in configuration GPIO1 Button 1 GPIO3 Led2i GPIO13 Led1i GPIO14 Relay1

after this was working I tried to figure out power measuring feature. In sonoff_template.h I added a new entrie of for the Teckin based on the Blitzwolf setup. After a few tried I got a working one.

{ "TECKIN SP22v1.4", // https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07D5V139R GPIO_USER, // GPIO00 Red Led (1 = On, 0 = Off) GPIO_KEY1, // GPIO01 Serial TXD and Button GPIO_USER, // GPIO02 Blue Led (1 = On, 0 = Off) GPIO_LED2_INV, // GPIO03 Serial RXD and Red Led (1 = On, 0 = Off) GPIO_HLW_CF, // GPIO04 BL0937 or HJL-01 CF power GPIO_HLW_CF1, // GPIO05 BL0937 or HJL-01 CF1 voltage / current 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, // Flash connection GPIO_HLW_SEL, // GPIO12 BL0937 or HJL-01 Sel output GPIO_LED1_INV, // GPIO13 Blue Led (1 = On, 0 = Off) GPIO_REL1, // GPIO14 Relay (0 = Off, 1 = On) 0, 0, 0 }

Only Voltage was not shown correctly, so I calibrated it via console an VoltageSet

Hope this one will get official support.

BR, Jochen

[milobt]

Mine have the same print as the original ones you were flashing, so your pin positions should hopefully be good for me.

[MJP-76]

Looks to be the same board as @ocl80

Wont be hard to get the pins holes for it now I have it open and the fact its not at an angle but parallel with the casing

[m24andrew]

@matthewjporter What a pain! I have the newer ones with the holes needed as per your template. You are doing a great job, I hope I can sort mine easily, as I have just stuffed two of my old sockets trying to update Tasmota OTA... By the way, are you using 5v for VCC?

[MJP-76]

@matthewjporter What a pain! I have the newer ones with the holes needed as per your template. You are doing a great job, I hope I can sort mine easily, as I have just stuffed two of my old sockets trying to update Tasmota OTA... By the way, are you using 5v for VCC?

Interested how you managed the OTA on these or was it other brands?

Here is the FTDI I am using. Connected to 5V

[m24andrew]

Interested how you managed the OTA on these or was it other brands?

Other brands that were Sonoff clones...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076CFG3NS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it was once possible to upgrade to Tasmota OTA right from the start. Unfortunately they upgraded the firmware and now not possible. They are almost impossible to dismantle without breaking them so OTA was great. Going from 5.14 to 6.30 worked for the minimal but failed on the classic and now they are useless...

Here is the FTDI I am using. Connected to 5V

Ah ok, I've always used 3.3v, interesting to know.

[MJP-76]

Holes drilled, checked and flashed Messy pic, Sorry

Problem with this one is that its a different chip and circuitry

I will upload two STL for the different versions

[MJP-76]

Ah ok, I've always used 3.3v, interesting to know.

I tried 3.3V and the 5V and just left it on 5V so is the only reason its on that :)

[MJP-76]

Success first go

I will work on the STL now, I promise

[milobt]

@matthewjporter any success with the STL templates?

[MJP-76]

@matthewjporter any success with the STL templates?

Sadly no, Day job got in the way as I had to do two exams, Hopefully this afternoon

[milobt]

Here's an STL of the jig I managed to pull together, using @matthewjporter photos as a guide. With a bit of fine tuning, I managed to get it accurate enough to drill 1mm holes.

One side of the jig has V,G,R,T (Vcc, GPI0, RXD, TXD) - GND on Neutral plug pin. These holes can be used for your test pins.

If you flip it over, there is the word "DRILL", which indicates the use of the holes in the circle that can be used as guides to drill holes, which ever size you feel necessary.

Teckin_SP23_Smart_Plug_Template-New_PCB.zip

I currently have no need for the older PCB hole arrangement, so maybe @matthewjporter can advise on these.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread.

[MJP-76]

Here's an STL of the jig I managed to pull together, using @matthewjporter photos as a guide. With a bit of fine tuning, I managed to get it accurate enough to drill 1mm holes.

One side of the jig has V,G,R,T (Vcc, GND, RXD, TXD). These holes can be used for your test pins.

If you flip it over, there is the word "DRILL", which indicates the use of the holes in the circle that can be used as guides to drill holes, which ever size you feel necessary.

Teckin_SP23_Smart_Plug_Template-New_PCB.zip

I currently have no need for the older PCB hole arrangement, so maybe @matthewjporter can advise on these.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread.

Great work, Sorry my time ran away with me.

I will look at adding the other model to the same STL as I found that they do no overlap and have it on a single print out

[pauledd]

I just want to mention my Europe-Plug Teckin SP22 v1.4 flashed device consumes ~0.8W turned off and ~1.3W turned on, just if someone wants to compare...

[n3m3s1s]

Hello everyone maybe someone can help me a little with these devices. I am not able to get esptool connected to that device. My hardware is an arch linux laptop and as you can see in the pictures below I tried using an arduino as power source and a ch341-uart jumped to 3.3v to try and get a connection. I tried as well by wiring the arduinos RESET to GND since the atmel is practically disabled then. I plugged in the CH341, pressed the button on the SP22 and then connected 3.3V from the arduino. If I open the ch341 console in screen I get some garbage on booting. So I assume something must be going on. Anyways whenever I try to use esptool this happens:

esptool --port /dev/ttyUSB1 chip_id  
esptool.py v2.5.1
Serial port /dev/ttyUSB1
Connecting........_____....._____....._____....._____....._____....._____....._____

A fatal error occurred: Failed to connect to Espressif device: Timed out
waiting for packet header

Off course RX <-> TX and vice versa.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

[MJP-76]

Have you tried swapping the tx and tx?

Sent from my iPhone

On 24 Nov 2018, at 11:08, n3m3s1s notifications@github.com<mailto:notifications@github.com> wrote:

Hello everyone maybe someone can help me a little with these devices. I am not able to get esptool connected to that device. My hardware is an arch linux laptop and as you can see in the pictures below I tried using an arduino as power source and a ch341-uart jumped to 3.3v to try and get a connection. I tried as well by wiring the arduinos RESET to GND since the atmel is practically disabled then. I plugged in the CH341, pressed the button on the SP22 and then connected 3.3V from the arduino. If I open the ch341 console in screen I get some garbage on booting. So I assume something must be going on. Anyways whenever I try to use esptool this happens:

esptool --port /dev/ttyUSB1 chipid esptool.py v2.5.1 Serial port /dev/ttyUSB1 Connecting........____..............................

A fatal error occurred: Failed to connect to Espressif device: Timed out waiting for packet header

Off course RX <-> TX and vice versa.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

[img_20181124_112201]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/2639374/48967479-5d7db680-efe1-11e8-9446-8b4835c62bdc.jpg [img_20181124_112234]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/2639374/48967482-62426a80-efe1-11e8-887e-827ac0fd8c39.jpg [img_20181124_112215]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/2639374/48967483-640c2e00-efe1-11e8-989d-b24b713174b7.jpg

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[pauledd]

Have you tried to enable flash mode (IO0 (for the european plug) to GND at powerup) ? I cant remember if it was necessary to communicate with the device...

[MJP-76]

Good shout, I had to ground gpio0 on all the ones I have done

Sent from my iPhone

On 24 Nov 2018, at 15:51, pauledd notifications@github.com<mailto:notifications@github.com> wrote:

Have you tried to enable flash mode (IO0 (for the european plug) to GND at powerup) ? I cant remember if it was necessary to communicate with the device...

— You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHubhttps://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/3950#issuecomment-441376810, or mute the threadhttps://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/APDgWtGk83ZHPQJ9cEsm662-AHWlLS0sks5uyWsagaJpZM4XBlkc.

[m24andrew]

Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the SP23 or know where else GPIO0 can also be pulled to zero on the board...I have pulled off the track and need another point to bring it down? Thanks

[n3m3s1s]

Have you tried swapping the tx and tx?

Yes I have.

Have you tried to enable flash mode (IO0 (for the european plug) to GND at powerup) ? I cant remember if it was necessary to communicate with the device...

Yeah I did that. too but with no result. May I ask what Hardware you are using to flash the ESPs?

[m24andrew]

I am using this USB to TTL adapter and VSCode to upload the firmware. Works a treat. In the end I am just hitting them with a hammer to open them up as they open so easily and cleanly that way. I printed the template and it didn't work for me. I then stick them back together and you would never know they had been opened...

[n3m3s1s]

I really think about buying a different USB to TTL but I don't think this really is the issue. Can I verify in some way that my power supply is working and providing sufficient power? I start to think that this might be one of my problems. I also might try simply flashing it without using esptool before. Is that how you did it?

[MJP-76]

I had a cheap o chips one that for most things worked fine but when I started to flash my sonoff device it was very hit and miss and that was with the proper headers on the device so no soldering etc. I bought the one I pictured above and have not had a missed flash since then

[m24andrew]

@n3m3s1s I couldn't get esptool to work, I tried using my Mac and a raspberry PI but nothing same output as you. I have Visual Studio Code and Platform installed on it. Just loaded up the Tasmota folder, made the relevant adjustments and worked fine for 8 plugs.

[milobt]

Anyone tried the Slitinto smart plug Amazon

They look just like the Teckin ones, only with an LED on the front surface?

Also, when choosing Teckin for the device type, in the config, it does not work, so have to choose Blitzwolf - I though the latest compile had an update to mimic the settings?

[m24andrew]

I bought 8 slitinto plugs in a flash sale on Amazon. They are slightly different shape to Teckin ones but actually are slimmer and don't interfere with the switch . The board is the one in the photo I published yesterday and they are easily flashed. I use the blitzwolf config and they all work great. I gave up after one plug drilling holes as they all open so easily with a soft hammer and they go back together a treat.

[milobt]

Here's a template for the older Teckin plugs with (vertically aligned ESP8266 chip), plus the Slitinto plugs. As with my previous jig design, one side can be used as a drill jig, the other for programming. This design has holes for ~0.7mm test pins and also sockets for jumper wire headers.

Slitinto(NX-SM110)-Smart_Plug_Template.zip

[szepnorbee]

Has anyone experienced even more random restarts with this module? (Teckin SP22) I have two of these modules and every day, at least once a night, they restart. Restart Reason is always: Power on. Flashed first with sonoff minimal then sonoff full image. Then custom image with many features disabled, but the problem remain. Free Program Space: 516kB ;Free Mamory: 27kB

[Aida3000]

Just bought three of SP22 (EU-plug), glued and without screws :-( It is a real pain to open it. A sharp cutter knife diesn't help much. This is the first Chinese plastic device that has gap tolerances of a BMW. Is there no way to flash using OTA?

[n3m3s1s]

Is there no way to flash using OTA?

Did you even read the posts above you? This whole "thread" is about how to flash that device. You can either open it or even flash without opening depending on the conditions of your device and your equipment.

[Aida3000]

n3m3s1s, you don't get my point: I'd like to flash the device without opening the case. At what point in this thread is a solution to flashing it using a no-cable-connection (OTA)?

[MJP-76]

@mgaida11

At the mo there is no OTA from the official firmware that I have seen

[m24andrew]

@mgaida11

It's not that hard cracking them open with a solid rubber mallet...I have just done 4 more very easily and went back together no problem.

https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/hi-gear-rubber-mallet-12oz-p360534

The original Sonoff device that connected via Ewelink was able to flash OTA directly but that stopped being possible after a certain firmware release and the conversation about it continues today....

Have a read here..

https://github.com/mirko/SonOTA

[Aida3000]

Cracking with a rubber mallet? It sounds pretty bizarre to me. How do you do that, please?

[m24andrew]

It isn't that bizarre... Place the socket on a cloth on a hard surface or the floor: Firmly hit the plug on the border of the base and the main part of the plug:

Rotate round and continue firmly hitting until the base releases from there main plug;

flash the firmware the stick the base back in with hot glue and good as new...

I have done 16 of these now and all working perfectly with the Tasmota firmware...

And now I have updated them all OTA with the latest firmware version too.

[beveradb]

Thanks so much for clearly explaining the rubber mallet technique for getting these open cleanly @m24andrew - I don't own a heat gun so was worried I'd have to claw at these plugs with a blade to open them, leaving them looking scrappy/unsafe (to my wife). I actually didn't own a rubber mallet either, but realised my shower rail end plug fits perfectly over the end of my claw hammer 😂 It worked a treat, and I've now got 8 open Slitinto (NX-SM110) plugs with no visible damage 👍

However, before I get out my soldering iron (it's been a while) and start unsoldering the Live & Neutral so I can remove the PCB, since you've done 16 now I thought I'd ask if you had any tips for doing this cleanly?

My worry is that I won't resolder it well enough for it to make a reliable connection, and at some point in the future, there will more current going through the plug than my poor solder joint can cope with and it'll be a safety hazard 😟

[m24andrew]

No worries, I’m glad you got them all open ok! Desoldering them is a bit of a pain. I have a solder sucker and desolder braid. What you have to do is get most of the solder off then heat what’s left and start to slide the board off the two big pins. But this is where you have to be careful as it can lift the PCB tracks if not molten fully when you try to lift the board! Also be careful soldering to the pins for flashing as they are very delicate and I almost buggered one up in the process. When you have flashed, remove the ground to GPIO and restart the module to see if you see the WiFi AP. If all is ok, continue. When done, resoldering is easy, just make sure it flows through to the back of the board. If you have a multimeter check the continuity from the mains pins to the board and check your solder joint carefully before reassembling. My solder joints were much better than what had been done by the manufacturer! Good luck!

[SynAckFin]

Put your hammers away. https://github.com/codetheweb/tuyapi/issues/49#issuecomment-452512186

[servidge]

Put your hammers away. codetheweb/tuyapi#49 (comment)

well i guess that's worth a look. maybe with some adjustments. The SSID from my version of the Teckin SP22 v1.4 is "Smart-Life-xxxx" xxx=the last 4 digits of the mac of the device.

[Aterfax]

I can report complete success on the Teckin SP23 utilizing @SynAckFin 's Perl script and using the Sonoff BlitzWolf SHP2 config.

His script can be found here:

https://github.com/SynAckFin/TuyOTA

His detailled walk through here: https://github.com/SynAckFin/TuyOTA/wiki/Walkthrough

[servidge]

I can report complete success on the Teckin SP23 utilizing @SynAckFin 's Perl script and using the Sonoff BlitzWolf SHP2 config.

His script can be found here:

https://github.com/SynAckFin/TuyOTA

His detailled walk through here: https://github.com/SynAckFin/TuyOTA/wiki/Walkthrough

Confirmation, the Teckin SP22 v1.4 can also be updated via ota update. Set as Teckin (52) in Tasmota config. My sawing work was unnecessary and is now obsolete. Thanks to @SynAckFin for his awesome work.

For clarification: The plugs must be integrated to your own wifi. (Normal setup like everyone else) The given IP from the walk through within the Command "sudo ./tuyota.pl -ip 192.168.31.45 -s MyHomeNet -p MySecret" should be the device IP from your plug. After this @Aterfax linked walk through from @SynAckFin works fine.

Only the power readings need to be adjusted after the OTA update. 270 instead of 227 volt is yet a noticeable difference.

[Rodny9]

I can report complete success on the Teckin SP23 utilizing @SynAckFin 's Perl script and using the Sonoff BlitzWolf SHP2 config. His script can be found here: https://github.com/SynAckFin/TuyOTA His detailled walk through here: https://github.com/SynAckFin/TuyOTA/wiki/Walkthrough

Confirmation, the Teckin SP22 v1.4 can also be updated via ota update. Set as Teckin (52) in Tasmota config. My sawing work was unnecessary and is now obsolete. Thanks to @SynAckFin for his awesome work.

For clarification: The plugs must be integrated to your own wifi. (Normal setup like everyone else) The given IP from the walk through within the Command "sudo ./tuyota.pl -ip 192.168.31.45 -s MyHomeNet -p MySecret" should be the device IP from your plug. After this @Aterfax linked walk through from @SynAckFin works fine.

Only the power readings need to be adjusted after the OTA update. 270 instead of 227 volt is yet a noticeable difference.

Thanks for your comment I didn't have to saw my plug lol. However, in the configuration I wasn't able to find the number 52 or nothing Teckin related. Which firmware have you flashed?

[servidge]

Thanks for your comment I didn't have to saw my plug lol. However, in the configuration I wasn't able to find the number 52 or nothing Teckin related. Which firmware have you flashed?

I just clicked the start update button ;). After the OTA update and reboot the sonoff.bin Version 6.4.1 is active.

[Rodny9]

Ok, so you next updated it? Cause i have sonoff 6.2.1 installed by TuyOTA. Yes, I just upgraded it with the latest through the webui. Thank you.

[spock64]

I managed to flash my Slitinto plugs using https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert (the now recommended method).

But, beware! You must ensure that you configure the unit type (as the Blitzwolf SHP2) at first boot with the new firmware and before the unit is restarted. If you don't and you manage to get the password wrong (or it contains an asterisk), the wifi will not connect and you cannot get wifimanager to work by the normal button presses - because the button is on GPIO 0 by default (he Slitinto button is on GPIO 13). The unit appears to be bricked - but it isn't - you just need to erase the flash, and flash again ...

So, hit up http://192.168.4.1/cn while connected to the plug's AP before configuring anything else - otherwise it is time for the hammer, soldering iron, etc.

Oddly enough, I have become adept with my rubber mallet!

[SynAckFin]

I managed to flash my Slitinto plugs using https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert (the now recommended method).

But, beware! You must ensure that you configure the unit type (as the Blitzwolf SHP2) at first boot with the new firmware and before the unit is restarted. If you don't and you manage to get the password wrong (or it contains an asterisk), the wifi will not connect and you cannot get wifimanager to work by the normal button presses - because the button is on GPIO 0 by default (he Slitinto button is on GPIO 13). The unit appears to be bricked - but it isn't - you just need to erase the flash, and flash again ...

So, hit up http://192.168.4.1/cn while connected to the plug's AP before configuring anything else - otherwise it is time for the hammer, soldering iron, etc.

Oddly enough, I have become adept with my rubber mallet!

There is a simple solution to recovering when the password is incorrect that doesn't involve a rubber mallet.

1. Log into you WiFi access point
2. Remove the access point password so devices can connect without a password.
3. Power your device on. It will connect to the WiFi.
4. Connect to your device and correct the password.
5. Put the password back on your WiFi access point.

[spock64]

Hi, Yes I guess that would work - though there would be a little chaos when the AP password changed. There’s a lot of devices on the network! Thanks for pointing this out :-)

On 16 Feb 2019, at 12:21, Terry Sanders notifications@github.com wrote:

I managed to flash my Slitinto plugs using https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert (the now recommended method).

But, beware! You must ensure that you configure the unit type (as the Blitzwolf SHP2) at first boot with the new firmware and before the unit is restarted. If you don't and you manage to get the password wrong (or it contains an asterisk), the wifi will not connect and you cannot get wifimanager to work by the normal button presses - because the button is on GPIO 0 by default (he Slitinto button is on GPIO 13). The unit appears to be bricked - but it isn't - you just need to erase the flash, and flash again ...

So, hit up http://192.168.4.1/cn http://192.168.4.1/cn while connected to the plug's AP before configuring anything else - otherwise it is time for the hammer, soldering iron, etc.

Oddly enough, I have become adept with my rubber mallet!

There is a simple solution to recovering when the password is incorrect that doesn't involve a rubber mallet.

Log into you WiFi access point Remove the access point password so devices can connect without a password. Power your device on. It will connect to the WiFi. Connect to your device and correct the password. Put the password back on your WiFi access point. — You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/issues/3950#issuecomment-464342521, or mute the thread https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AViF0799IlktjfKAtKft_k_5pv2YpLy3ks5vN_exgaJpZM4XBlkc.

[evaluationevaluation]

Hi,

just tried to flash my 2 Slitinto Model NX-SP202 (Dual Outlet) using tuya-convert. Used VM-Ware image of Kali Linux 2019.1 Installed requirements using ./install_prereq-sh and installed missing npm using apt-get install npm

So far managed to flash one of the two with Tasmota image shipped with tuya-convert.

Now my 2 questions: 1) really don't know why the second does not want to get flashed. Tried the fast and slow blinking mode and restarted the start_flash.sh several times and waited quite long... nothing happens. The log files are fine and also observed the 4 different SCREEN sessions. My android connects well to the access point but this is the only reaction in the 4 SCREEN sessions. Is there a possibility to find out why my second Slitinto does not connect? Should I see the section "sending packets and waiting 60 seconds" every 60 seconds again? I see it only once...

2) What Tasmota configuration does you use for Slitinto Dual Outlets? I selected "Generic (18)" as Module Type and found out that

• Button1 is on GPIO0
• Button2 is on GPIO16
• Relay1 is on GPIO15
• Relay2 is on GPIO14 But then I don't see metering information. Do I need to flash a different Tasmota Version or is there a better "base module" to configure Slitinto devices? In Tasmota WIKI "Templates" I saw example for Blitzwolf with GPIO5 selected as "BL0937", but in Generic Module I cannot select such a function. What is the trick to get Slitinto fully working with 2xButtons,2xLEDs,2xRelays and Metering Sensors?

Your help is really appreciated and I want to thank everyone who can point me to the right direction or even give me the final solution.

[spock64]

Hi,

First, are you using the stop flash and then start flash script for the second and further units? This worked for me.

Second, as of version 6.4.1.17, Tasmota includes a “template” facility that does what you need - you can define your module pin by pin. See https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Templates Perhaps you could wait for the next release or build it yourself?

Sent from my phone ...

On 24 Feb 2019, at 01:19, evaluationevaluation notifications@github.com wrote:

Hi,

just tried to flash my 2 Slitinto Model NX-SP202 (Dual Outlet) using tuya-convert. Used VM-Ware image of Kali Linux 2019.1 Installed requirements using ./install_prereq-sh and installed missing npm using apt-get install npm

So far managed to flash one of the two with Tasmota image shipped with tuya-convert.

Now my 2 questions:

really don't know why the second does not want to get flashed. Tried the fast and slow blinking mode and restarted the start_flash.sh several times and waited quite long... nothing happens. The log files are fine and also observed the 4 different SCREEN sessions. My android connects well to the access point but this is the only reaction in the 4 SCREEN sessions. Is there a possibility to find out why my second Slitinto does not connect? Should I see the section "sending packets and waiting 60 seconds" every 60 seconds again? I see it only once...

What Tasmota configuration does you use for Slitinto Dual Outlets? I selected "Generic (18)" as Module Type and found out that

Button1 is on GPIO0 Button2 is on GPIO16 Relay1 is on GPIO15 Relay2 is on GPIO14 But then I don't see metering information. Do I need to flash a different Tasmota Version or is there a better "base module" to configure Slitinto devices? In Tasmota WIKI "Templates" I saw example for Blitzwolf with GPIO5 selected as "BL0937", but in Generic Module I cannot select such a function. What is the trick to get Slitinto fully working with 2xButtons,2xLEDs,2xRelays and Metering Sensors? Your help is really appreciated and I want to thank everyone who can point me to the right direction or even give me the final solution.

— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or mute the thread.

[evaluationevaluation]

Hi,

thank you very much for your quick answer. Yes, I use stop_flash between the trials. Also rebooted the machine several times in between to be sure that all is fine again.

Will have a closer look at the template facility. Found the wiki article with the example of Blitzwolf and just wanted to select the mentioned entries in the web config... Will try to find out if my knowledge is enough to create my own template and upload a custom made image... at least for the first of my modules.

Any further ideas to find out why my second item denies to get in contact with tuya-convert? Do I have to take care about a special timing when starting tuya-convert or should it be sufficient to simply start tuya-convert, plug in the device and start blinking and just wait some minutes? Can I see somewhere whether tuya-convert resends connection packages every 60 seconds or not?

[spock64]

To make the flash happen, the plug needs to be in the mode where the led blinks rapidly. To get into this mode, the button needs to be held for a few seconds. You may have been lucky that the first plug you tried was in that mode when first powered on - one of my six plugs was like this. Also, remember to follow the instructions precisely and follow the sequence that is specified by the script - the start_flash, connect a Wi-Fi device to the temporary AP, then power on the plug. Hold the button if needed to get the led to blink rapidly. The initial flash should complete within a few sips of your cup of tea / coffee. You can then load the firmware you need. Beware - the most recent firmware is bigger than 512k so you need the initial flash to be smaller than that!

Sent from my iPad

On 24 Feb 2019, at 10:04, evaluationevaluation notifications@github.com wrote:

Hi,

thank you very much for your quick answer. Yes, I use stop_flash between the trials. Also rebooted the machine several times in between to be sure that all is fine again.

Will have a closer look at the template facility. Found the wiki article with the example of Blitzwolf and just wanted to select the mentioned entries in the web config... Will try to find out if my knowledge is enough to create my own template and upload a custom made image... at least for the first of my modules.

Any further ideas to find out why my second item denies to get in contact with tuya-convert? Do I have to take care about a special timing when starting tuya-convert or should it be sufficient to simply start tuya-convert, plug in the device and start blinking and just wait some minutes? Can I see somewhere whether tuya-convert resends connection packages every 60 seconds or not?

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