Closed FVM00 closed 5 years ago
It is already supported.
If you need further assistant, please, address this to the Tasmota Support Chat. The chat is a better and more dynamic channel for helping you. Github issues are meant for Tasmota Software Bug Reporting.
Thanks.
See Wiki for more information. See FAQ for common questions/answers and links if none of your question is in the list See Chat for more user experience. See Community for forum. See Code of Conduct
@ascillato2: Why did you say this Sonoff model is supported? This product was released in August only.
I'm interested in this also! Agreed can't find info on this device as it has only just been released.
This device is new indeed.
I expect that module 28 (Sonoff T1 1CH) will do the job just fine. Let me know if it doesn't.
Will do. Thanks...It's on order now.
Still looking for (extra) GPIO0 spot :-) .
Looking at the small amount of logic AND the fact that the device doesn't need both power connections it might well be that Tasmota won't work because it uses a lot of cpu resources.
From the pictures it seems the push button is connected to GPIO0 via the additional microcontroller.
Once you're able to flash I suggest you make a backup first.
So how can i put this into flashing mode?
I am interested in this too :)
Tried to find a connection for GPIO0, but did not find anything on the board. Gave up hope and tried to connect directly on the chip. This worked, flashing mode was enabled (WiFi led not blinking) Flashing Tasmota without a problem. Operates also exactly the same as T1.
Currently operating with Homey through MQTT 😁😁😁
@FVM00 thank you very much for this information. Please inform us if you find any abnormalities/inconvenience. I'm very interested.
Is this pin you are referring to?
@Hellcube
In the diagram, yes. In the photo, yes (edited).
Note in the diagram the black dot in the corner of pin 1 & pin 33. The dot is also on the physical chip itself. It tells you were pin 1 is.
@meingraham I think you're wrong. Both picture and diagram are correct. Remember, he turned the picture upside down.
Or likely I'm blind and need glasses :wink:. That looked like a dot in the photo.
Nevertheless, @Hellcube, orient using the dot.
There's also the dot on the PCA next to the almost invisible dot on the chip :-)
I made a new, better, photo. Now you can see clearly the marking spot on the chip and on the board :smiley:
I think R10 on the flip side is connected to GPIO00 too. So it may be easier to wire it up there.
R10 works. Sucesfully flashed. I have a problem with the relay, it switches on and off all the time when pluged in main power (not from serial adapter).
I'm in on this too.
I got it flashed with R10 as my GPIO-0 connection. I'm not getting a relay toggle with the cap-touch button. I had the relay toggle working via the UI with the Module as Sonoff Basic, but not the cap-touch switch.
I had a look to the board, since @Snipercaine jump on our channel to get some info. Looking at the pic I have, seems GPIO0 is the one controlling the touch, but passing trough the MCU (U2). Is an SOT23-6, Touch I/O Flash MCU model BS83A02A-4. ON Pin3 (PA0/INT/ICPDA) is connected GPIO0 trough R10 and on Pin5 (PA1/KEY1) there is the touch in.
Is the diagram in the Original Post accurate? It indicates a (N) Neutral Wire, but this switch doesn't require one.
It indicates a (N) Neutral Wire, but this switch doesn't require one.
Neutral is still required to the load, it just doesn't need to go to the switch. The diagram is correct.
It indicates a (N) Neutral Wire, but this switch doesn't require one.
Neutral is still required to the load, it just doesn't need to go to the switch. The diagram is correct.
Except in the diagram, it has the "Out" connection of the Switch connected to the (N) Natural Wire. This switch only uses the (L) Live wire. Both in and out.
The out looks to be connected to the live side of the bulb and then the neutral to the other side of the bulb to me, then the anti flicker module connected across both.
The out looks to be connected to the live side of the bulb and then the neutral to the other side of the bulb to me, then the anti flicker module connected across both.
Oi, you're right.. dumba$$ me didn't take notice of the circle/X representing the bulb.
I've done a description of how this board works, and the process that I found to be successful for installing Tasmota. Some of it is documented in the video, some is on the page: https://www.superhouse.tv/34-science-or-sorcery-sonoff-t4eu1c-no-neutral-wifi-touch-switch/
There must be a problem with tasmota because esphome works fine flashed on the"normal" way
And we are aware of it. The problem is being investigated.
Thats fine. Hope you find the problem. Love tasmota on the sonoff units
Quick question for current users. Is this device immune to Ghost switching? Thx
@s-hadinger I'm not sure. As for now we tested three units, each one showed different behavior:
reset
pin to enter in program mode and flashed successfully just using 74880bps .As you can imagine is hard to reply until we get more units with Tasmota on board. Seems on EspHome this particular model is working just fine out of the box. My fear is we are facing a power issue here: @jonoxer told me the stock firmware was draining about 70-80mA and will test the actual draining under Tasmota. Until then can't say what's going on.
Successfully flashed without any difficulties. Used R10 as a connection point for GPIO0. Additional GND for easy connection is available at some of J2 pins. Switch works just fine with a couple of fluorescent bulbs and the anti flicker module.
@vampik thanks for your feedback.
What is your Voltage configuration? 110v/220v? 50/60Hz?
And what .bin
you flashed?
What is your Voltage configuration? 110v/220v? 50/60Hz?
220V 50Hz.
And what
.bin
you flashed?
I flashed sonoff.bin.
It may be also worth noting that I didn't use it with the original firmware. I flashed Tasmota right after unpacking.
Hi guys,
Timely this came out. So my home wiring does not have a N to the switch and I find it next to impossible to run the lines.
So I do have the Sonoff T1 UK switches. Will the anti-flicker module work with this? And can I make my own anti-flicker module? Any help on how to make that will save me the trouble and hassle of snake wiring all my points.
Thanks guys.
No the T1 will not work without neutral. With on without the anti flicker device. See @jonoxer video above
Any news for this device ?
Yes. Google it and Tasmota. Several successful outcomes.
Can you send me a link. I read everywhere that after tasmota is flashed the Hardware button is not working anymore
The first link Hardware Button does not Work Second link to strong way not doable for me. Third link if you read the comments the hardware button does not work.
Them's your choices at this time.
FYI: Flashed three T4EU1C with an older sonoff.bin from februar 2019 and all works. After flashing it does not work, But after setting up the wifi and set the device to T1 alls is working fine
Tried new version v6.7.1 does not work. Can You provide me the link to that firmware from february? i will test it...
What exactly does not work?
R10 works. Sucesfully flashed. I have a problem with the relay, it switches on and off all the time when pluged in main power (not from serial adapter).
Seems that something is misconfigured. Please, address this to the Tasmota support Chat with the output of the console. Thanks.
R10 works. Sucesfully flashed. I have a problem with the relay, it switches on and off all the time when pluged in main power (not from serial adapter).
Do you have attached the anti flicker module ?
R10 works. Sucesfully flashed. I have a problem with the relay, it switches on and off all the time when pluged in main power (not from serial adapter).
Do you have attached the anti flicker module ?
I did not flicker module fixed it. Thanks.
https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-t4eu1c-wi-fi-smart-single-wire-wall-switch.html
Anybody already seen this device? Is it ESP8266 based and flasable? Very exited and curious. Living in an old house with very strange wiring, So have not been able to route an extra wire