Support for Sonoff D1 Dimmer

klotzma commented 4 years ago

Have you looked for this feature in other issues and in the docs?

Yes

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Sonoff has released a new dimmer, the Sonoff D1 dimmer. Is Tasmota compatible with this dimmer, if not, is it possible to add it?

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Add any other context or screenshots about the feature request here. 1579955221551916829968913932071 1579955250365492535689669968940

(Please, remember to close the issue when the problem has been addressed)

Ant1q commented 4 years ago

Then select module "Sonoff D1" from the drop down module selection screen.

I have flashed lastet update, select Sonoff D1, but there is no way to control dimmer and no option for domoticz idx. What im doing wrong?

lyrray commented 4 years ago

Hi everyone! I received this device a few days ago and tested the above mentioned changes. I can also confirm, that it doesn't work.

I tried to fix it myself but I don't know the code well enough. It kinda works, but a lot of functionality is still missing. Please take a look at my commit: (https://github.com/lyrray/Tasmota/commit/e08a772a4b6e3f5dfa080c535d358914ef2ae555)

arendst commented 4 years ago

Thx will have a look.

arendst commented 4 years ago

Latest commit has Sonoff D1 enabled by default.

All suggested changes by @lyrray have been incorporated and a fix for received data has also been applied.

Pls retry. If the buttons still provide no feedback enable more logging with command Weblog 3. This will dump serial data as it is received from the (rf)microcontroller.

robbz23 commented 4 years ago

@arendst I played with this tonight and yes I can confirm that dimming is working fine. It sends commands to the d1 and dimming is changed. However we get nothing back in the console at all until I do like I did before and send a serial command. Then I start receiving back information.

23:41:04 RSL: stat/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"POWER":"ON","Dimmer":39}
23:41:04 CFG: Saved to flash at FA, Count 45, Bytes 4096
23:41:05 SRC: WebGui from 192.168.1.193
23:41:05 CMD: Group 0, Index 1, Command "DIMMER", Data "83"
23:41:05 RSL: stat/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"POWER":"ON","Dimmer":83}
23:41:06 CFG: Saved to flash at F9, Count 46, Bytes 4096
23:41:16 CMD: SerialSend5 aa550104000a0101ffffffffffffffff09
23:41:16 SRC: WebConsole from 192.168.1.193
23:41:16 CMD: Group 0, Index 5, Command "SERIALSEND", Data "aa550104000a0101ffffffffffffffff09"
23:41:16 RSL: stat/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialSend":"Done"}
23:41:16 CFG: Saved to flash at F8, Count 47, Bytes 4096
23:41:16 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA00550001000400000000000500}
23:41:24 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0001002800FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF003000}
23:41:29 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0001003C00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF004400}
23:41:33 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0001006400FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF006C00}
23:41:38 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0001000100FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF000900}
23:41:43 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0001002800FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF003000}
23:41:49 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0000002800FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF002F00}
23:42:02 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0001002800FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF003000}
23:42:06 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA0055000100040000000A0000002800FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF00FF002F00}

also the data coming back is a bit strange when configured as a D1 compared to a sonoff basic. Here is how it looks as a sonoff basic. It is adding an empty byte after every byte of data.


23:47:18 RSL: stat/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialSend":"Done"}
23:47:18 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA550104000005}
23:47:24 RSL: tele/tasmota_D9E56D/RESULT = {"SerialReceived":AA550104000A0164FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF6C}

at 23:47:18 is a confirmation of the updated value from the ESP. starting at 23:47:24 I am using the remote to update the values.

arendst commented 4 years ago

Thx for your feedback. I'm in the process of getting my hands on one. Once received I hope to narrow down the issue which, I think must be minor.

arendst commented 4 years ago

Thx to Tim I now have a D1 on my desk.

Will report progress once made.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

You guys can keep working on the software, eventually there will be some use for it.

But, for now, I think these D1's are exciting for tinkering with, but garbage if you intend to use them for real life situations. I purchased 10 of them, my fault, and have installed at 4 gangs. They have issues with ghost switching constantly and going offline constantly. Don't have similar issues with Sonoff basic R2s in the same network. Initially I thought that it was my capacitive touch mod that was causing these issues but I have been constantly replacing 'bad' switches with fresh ones, but no luck. Furthermore, I am skeptical as to whether any software update will solve these issues, they are likely hardware issues. Either the low voltage power ICs are under powered or ESP8285 is not quite as reliable as the ESP8266.

Either way, this is no good for any real life usage.

And there is no word from Sonoff as they seem to be in quarantine.

Other manufacturers wifi on/off switches are also working flawlessly in my home, so it is not a network issue.

I created 'scenes' in the stock software for controlling multiple of them together but it is one in a hundred times that all devices are successfully triggered in a scene.

digiblur commented 4 years ago

I didn't like them myself either for various reasons such as no actual physical control of the dimming and many others. Kinda bashed them in my video but I tell it like it is.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

I didn't like them myself either for various reasons such as no actual physical control of the dimming and many others. Kinda bashed them in my video but I tell it like it is.

True... I bet that they removed the physical switch from the design at the last moment, thinking that it would help resolve the ghost switching issues. Why else would it be there in the board? To be honest, there was no need for the RF remote option... reliable operation is way more important. And the real stupid cyclical dimming in discovery mode.

The one in my hallway goes into discovery mode in the middle of the night and the only way for me to switch it off is to switch off the breaker, so that we can sleep in peace.

arendst commented 4 years ago

Try latest commit. It works for me with Remote, Gui and commands.

Pls report back any issues you may find.

lyrray commented 4 years ago

I tested the latest commit and it works much better. No more intensity jumps on power on/off.

I also tried it from Home Assistant using MQTT and that one works too, except one thing: the light can be turned on using the big icon but it remains grey and can only be turned off by setting the brightness to 0%.

arendst commented 4 years ago

You'll have to investigate what commands HASS sends over mqtt to satisfy it's GUI. This driver only supports power and dimmer commands.

FourFoot commented 4 years ago

Anyone who has this working with Tasmota, when you dim from say 100% to 40%, does it instantly jump or does it fade down?

arendst commented 4 years ago

It fades nicely under control of the microcontroller. Can't help it.

arendst commented 4 years ago

@lyrray after struggling for some time I managed to get a HASS.io environment running. Adding the Sonoff D1 using auto discovery was a breeze once I figured out the FullTopic did not need a change anymore.

It all resulted in a functional dimmer dial allowing me to control the brightness and the Bulb within the dial and did exactly what it had to do; go blue/gray when off, turn yellowish when on.

I'm starting to like HASS again.

arendst commented 4 years ago

I tend to close this issue as it has been solved.

ascillato2 commented 4 years ago

Closing this issue as it has been solved.

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robbz23 commented 4 years ago

@arendst Thanks for looking at this and solving it so quickly. I tested it last night and it works great.

arendst commented 4 years ago

Thx for feedback. Much appreciated.

Meeh1 commented 4 years ago

@arendst Great job, thanks! Does anyone know how to learn rf remote on the D1? I've tried several things without success.

arendst commented 4 years ago

Me too. In the end I pressed a button on the remote and then applied power to the D1. It beeps when it recognizes the remote. YMMV.

robbz23 commented 4 years ago

It says in the manual but yes I believe it is when you first plug it in (and maybe the light has to be pulsing).

Does anybody else get ghost switching on? I wish I knew how to solve this. I have 2 online, one with original firmware and one with the latest dev build from @arendst. The original kept coming on mostly in the middle of the night until I moved the router within 1m of it. The tasmota one is about 2 m from the router and has had at least 2 events in the last 48hrs. I am thinking it must be coming from the 433 and bb10 side of it. @sandeep-ma didn't you have this problem?

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

Hi All Regarding the RF remote, it works perfectly for me. In fact, I have 5 D1switches controlled from a single RF remote. They are all in the same living room area, so a single switch works fine.

The trick is to press buttons on the remote within 5 seconds of powering on the switch. Since I had already installed the switches, what I had to do was to turn the breaker on and then run to the switches within 5 seconds, clicking madly at the remote buttons till I heard the beep.

With regards to ghost switching, yes, I still have that and it does seem like an antenna issue and I also noticed that the switches keep going offline frequently. I have 5 switches in a single scene and they rarely all succeed in a single scene activation. I did a bit of cleanup of the wifi access point and things are a bit better. I am going to try by adding additional access points in the same room as the switches, maybe that will help a bit. The ordinary sonoff basic and the awesome gosund plugs dont have such an issue, even though they are far away from the access point, some of them in the basement. I found that the switches that I had opened up and done soldering on are more impacted by ghost switching than the ones that I did not open.

Although, I live in a rural area and my Internet is over fixed wireless and pretty flaky... eagerly waiting for Elon Musk's satellites to go into service.

And I am using the stock firmware, not tasmota. Maybe the tasmota dev guys can try fiddle with the weak wifi scenario to see if that can be worked around at firmware level. Or check if the 3.3v supply is dipping or something?

The RF remote works perfectly, although I find hardly any perceptable difference in brightness between II and III in the case of LED lights.

kugelkopf123 commented 4 years ago

Does this Ghostswitching only happens with a connected Switch?

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

I am not totally sure... maybe... I had one sitting on my table for a couple of days and did not have an issue... I will try again and report back. I did kind of start thinking lately about how I have these stuffed in, inside the standard galvanised steel gang boxes that are used in north america... with a blank plastic decora plate in the front... maybe they are chocking the wifi signal? anyone has any idea about how to implement an external antenna, like in the sonoff mini? Can such micro antennas be purchased? On a sonoff mini, it is hard to tell how it was done as they have a put a lot of some crazy white glue on top that hides everything.

Also, maybe it is the cheaper 8285 versus the 8266

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

It appears like there are different levels of badness... One of the ten I have is really bad... it keeps going into discovery mode (dim and bright) and then later starts blinking on and off. This is one from which I accidentally ripped the S1 PCB contact when desoldering... but it was working okay for a few days after that... 5 that I have currently installed are mostly okay... just one or two ghost switchings over a few days. Then there are 4 that I had modded with touch sensors and those had a lot of ghost switching and are currently all removed.

But all of them keep going offline all the time, the bad ones as well as the not so bad ones.

I have ordered these, but dont know what I am going to do with them once they get shipped in a few weeks: https://m.banggood.com/5Pcs-IPEX-Welding-2_4G-PCB-Antenna-4dBi-Built-in-Antenna-Bluetooth-Wifi-Omnidirectional-Aerial-p-1532396.html?utm_design=41&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=Neworder171109&utm_campaign=trigger-emarsys&utm_content=winna&sc_src=email_2675773&sc_eh=69b1bb2d513d147f1&sc_llid=20949888&sc_lid=105229698&sc_uid=35w2MjMmri

sfromis commented 4 years ago

Here's a page about soldering an external antenna to a D1 Mini (non-pro). It involves cutting the internal antenna, and tricky soldering of the external antenna instead. Similar points can be found on the Sonoff D1 board. https://www.instructables.com/id/External-Antenna-for-ESP8266/ In principle, the antenna is just a wire section of about 30 mm, with shielding on the part leading to the board. Can be made from some thin coax. https://oscarliang.com/repair-2-4ghz-antenna-rx/ This gets to something similar to the Sonoff Mini antenna. Fun fact: Lots of wifi antennas have a long plastic shell, which is mostly empty, and the antenna inside much shorter :-)

robbz23 commented 4 years ago

I know that this is probably not the right place to continue this discussion about the ghost switching issue. It happened to me a few times today with one of my two D1's. This last time I was able to catch it in the console and it looks like a normal power-on event, the same as if I pushed the remote button. So I doubt it is an unstable 3.3v that is causing it because tasmota is still reporting the uptime as over 13h ago which is when I first plugged in this device today.

DMP: AA 55 01 04 00 0A 01 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 08
22:27:21 SRC: Switch
22:27:21 MQT: tele/kitchen_spots/STATE = {"Time":"2020-03-12T22:27:21","Uptime":"0T14:13:04","UptimeSec":51184,"Heap":29,"SleepMode":"Dynamic","Sleep":10,"LoadAvg":19,"MqttCount":6,"POWER":"ON","Dimmer":0,"Fade":"OFF","Speed":1,"LedTable":"ON","Wifi":{"AP":1,"SSId":"mywireless","BSSId":"50:D4:F7:98:15:A7","Channel":11,"RSSI":94,"Signal":-53,"LinkCount":1,"Downtime":"0T00:00:08"}}
22:27:21 MQT: stat/kitchen_spots/RESULT = {"POWER":"ON"}
22:27:21 MQT: stat/kitchen_spots/POWER = ON
22:27:21 CFG: Saved to flash at FA, Count 180, Bytes 4096

Gravitate1 commented 4 years ago

Just thinking aloud... could it be that when it was first switched on, it picked up some rogue background RF signal, and saved it, similar to how it would when pairing it with a remote.

And the ghost switching occurs whenever it happens to pick up that same rogue background signal again?

You could test it by powering it on when completely surrounded by foil and see if it reduces the occurrences of the ghost switching.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

Folks, I have been doing some experimenting and analysis for the last few days... here are some of my preliminary conclusions:

I don't have any ghost switching issues with Sonoff D1. Whatever ghost switching I had experienced was solely a result of my capacitive touch mod to those switches. Now I have found a solution to that issue. A 22pF capacitor can be placed in a preallocated location on the TTP223 and that makes it a lot more stable for a 3.3V application, eliminating the ghost switching issue. Only thing is that soldering a normal ceramic 22pF on these is a nightmare, to say the least... I have ordered 350 minute SMD capacitors for future application. I have a bunch of HTTM capacitive touch switches also, which people claim are a lot more stable than the TP223, but soldering a NAND gate to them is another nightmare, so I did not attempt that, although I have about half a dozen Sonoff Basic R2s installed at home with HTTM + SMD NAND that are working pretty well. I don't do that anymore since you almost need a microscope to solder those SMD NAND gates onto a PCB... I love the TP223 as there are 2 solderable jumpers to achieve any possible latch / no-latch / NO / NC application you have.
But having said that, I have a very big issue. So far, three of the ten Sonoff D1s I purchased have 'died'. Died as in: every now or then, they suddenly go into that 'breathing' mode and that is followed by them going into rapidly switching on and off for a minute... then back to normal. Now this is scary since I was originally blaming myself for this, self effacing as I am, telling myself that it is because of all the soldering I did on them. I even did a full cleanup of all microscopic solder beads and flux but no luck... and lately, one switch that I had completely not tinkered with, not even unscrewed the cover from, has started behaving that way. And furthermore, there is another un-tinkered one that has done it a few times today. Each of these worked fine for a few weeks, including the ones I had tinkered, and then started this behaviour. Once a switch starts this behaviour, it stays like that, even after a full reset... maybe someone could suggest if there is some specific component on the low voltage board I could consider replacing, to fix this. Or maybe this is due to that whole RF433 business and if there is a way to get rid of it but keep the basic functionality of the switch working. And I now have two 'tinkered' ones on the wall with my new capacitive touch approach with the 22pF capacitor, working perfectly since the last couple of days. So I am now wondering if these Sonoff D1s will eventually all fail this way in the next few weeks or months? That would be a real waste of the hundred dollars spent on buying 10 of them.
Lastly, with regards to the WiFi issues, I am surprisingly having a lot less of that over the last couple of days, especially since I switch to LAN mode if my Internet connection is unstable, but I will talk more about it once I receive the external antennas that I ordered from China, and when I get to try them out.

robbz23 commented 4 years ago

I got some feed back from someone over on iTead's forums. They were told by iTead support to clear all rf codes by holding the bottom left button down until it beeps. Then reprogramming the remote. I did this by flipping the breaker for few seconds then pushing the on button right after it came back on. This person claimed it worked for them, and so far ( 6 hours) it has worked for me.

EDIT: It was the bottom left button.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

I performed the remote code clearing routine... now the switches are not working with the remote. But two of them are still going into breathing mode spontaneously every now and then. While they are in breathing mode, they are not accessible over Wi-Fi. Once they have completed their cycle of breathing followed by on-off, they are back on the network and work normally, till the next time.

jkimmel commented 4 years ago

I'm not sure whether this is the right place to ask: Do I need to put the D1 in programming mode to flash it via Tasmotizer? If so, howto do it ?

robbz23 commented 4 years ago

@jkimmel You have to ground the pad that says 0 on it while powering on the board. Take the top layer board out of the case and use the power from your usb ttl device to power just the low voltage board. Hook everything up and ground the 0 pad before connecting the ground (or 3.3) and keep it there for a few seconds after powering. The LED should not be on or flashing if you are in programming mode.

robbz23 commented 4 years ago

@sandeep-ma could it be some sort of automatic firmware upgrade? are all of your devices in eWelink app? How many of these breathing ones are running stock firmware vs Tasmota?

jkimmel commented 4 years ago

@robbz23 could you show me the location of the mentioned pad? Maybe on a photo? Edit: Found the pad ;-)

kumy commented 4 years ago

I've installed one of them in my bedroom yesterday, and we're also impacted by the ghost switching many times during the night.

Regarding the "remote code clearing routine", where is the bottom left button, I think they are on the remote, but I don't own them.

I have used GPIO0 to connect my mecanic switching buttons, could the solution from @sandeep-ma, placing a capacitor between GND/GPIO0 would help? (Edit: capacitor added, it doesn't hurt in switch usage, let's see if it helps solving the problem in the long time…) (Edit2: it doesn't helps, just found it on once again :()

Also, for me options SwitchMode 3 / SwitchMode 4 behave both the same as SwitchMode 3 - command launched only when button is released.

klotzma commented 4 years ago

could someone flash the dimmer by ota?

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

@sandeep-ma could it be some sort of automatic firmware upgrade? are all of your devices in eWelink app? How many of these breathing ones are running stock firmware vs Tasmota?

All my devices are running ewelink. There has been no firmware upgrade from the original, so far. I have 3 D1s that are installed (a third one started behaving this way recently) that keep going into breathing mode multiple times a day. They are all complely untoched and not even had their cover unscrewed. And there were two more with this same issue which I have since removed and those were the ones to which I had previously soldered the TTP223 but even after removing that and completely cleaning up the solder, they continued to have the issue. So, 5 out of 10 have this issue. I opened a ticket a few days ago, but no response from itead. I assume their support staff is not back.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

I've installed one of them in my bedroom yesterday, and we're also impacted by the ghost switching many times during the night.

Regarding the "remote code clearing routine", where is the bottom left button, I think they are on the remote, but I don't own them.

I have used GPIO0 to connect my mecanic switching buttons, could the solution from @sandeep-ma, placing a capacitor between GND/GPIO0 would help? (Edit: capacitor added, it doesn't hurt in switch usage, let's see if it helps solving the problem in the long time…) (Edit2: it doesn't helps, just found it on once again :()

Also, for me options SwitchMode 3 / SwitchMode 4 behave both the same as SwitchMode 3 - command launched only when button is released.

Maybe a capacitor placed in the correct place could help reduce the chances of an extra sensitive circuit causing ghost switching. But just to clarify, I do not have that ghost switching issue (I have the issue of the devices going into breathing mode spontaneously). I had ghost switching issues with my capacitive touch mod and I was able to resolve that by putting a capacitor on the TTP223 board which it supports with contacts provided for it.

brazil83 commented 4 years ago

hi, i flashed sonoff d1 with tasmota 8.2, then i selected module type "sonoff D1 (74)"... but when i connected the dimmable bulb, its always on, even if i switch it off or on, and dimming is not doing anything... is there anything wrong, is tasmota 8.2 contains the modifications to support sonoff d1?.. am i missing any configuration other than what i mention earlier?... do i need to run any commands in console?... to be honest, i had a short circuit, and i changed the fuse... i tested the esp circuit, and its fine...

FourFoot commented 4 years ago

I'm getting this ghost turning on issue on 2 out of 3 I've just installed. If it is as people have suggested and just stray RF transmissions, is it possible to completely disable the RF section of the D1? I have no interest in using it, so don't mind cutting tracks, ripping off chips etc...

kugelkopf123 commented 4 years ago

I'm getting this ghost turning on issue on 2 out of 3 I've just installed. If it is as people have suggested and just stray RF transmissions, is it possible to completely disable the RF section of the D1? I have no interest in using it, so don't mind cutting tracks, ripping off chips etc...

It seems that U2 and U1 on the LowVoltage board are responsible for the 433Mhz antenna. Somewhere here in the issue, these chips are dealt with a little more. Possibly. it would be the easiest to first unsolder C4 and C11. As far as I can see in the photos, these seem to be the direct connections to the 433Mhz antenna.

@all by the way, what are the resistors R6-R14 anyway? Are these all voltagedivids? U2 5V -> U3 3.3V? If this is the case, it could be that this ghost switching may be due to this. Serial data transmission via voltagedivider never worked properly for me.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

Three D1 switches are connected to potlights, sconces and a chandelier in my living room and are constantly going into 'breething' / blinking mode. It is driving everyone in the house crazy.

Would anyone have any clue or thought as to which MCU could be managing this blinking routine? Is it the ESP or the EFM8 and any way to stop it? I have tried removing the Remote Control registration as well as removing WiFi registration but the issue is not resolved.

Others who are facing ghost switching, could you confirm if it is this ghost blinking issue or just ghost switching,since I am not having ghost switching, but ghost blinking.

kumy commented 4 years ago

Others who are facing ghost switching, could you confirm if it is this ghost blinking issue or just ghost switching

For me the light switched on unexpectedly, no "breath". I have unplugged it the second night as it made us crasy too!!

FourFoot commented 4 years ago

Others who are facing ghost switching, could you confirm if it is this ghost blinking issue or just ghost switching,since I am not having ghost switching, but ghost blinking.

Mine was just switching on. 24hrs ago I removed C4 and C11 as suggested by @kugelkopf123 and so far haven't had any random switch-ons, fingers crossed.

Do these devices go in to a constant dim-up/down cycle if you press and hold "on" on the remote as others do? Could yours perhaps also be RF interference, but it's seeing a long "on" command and going in to said loop?

kugelkopf123 commented 4 years ago

@FourFoot The next option would be to remove r14, r13, r12, r11 in order to interrupt the communication between u1 and u3.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

I removed C4 and C11 but the problem of the random triggering of breathing mode is still there. And the remote control is still working, so it seems that C4 and C11 do not actually break that path. I will give it a try, to remove that array of resistors next, will probably have a much lighter D1 model that can eventually be placed in the recycle bin.

sandeep-ma commented 4 years ago

I removed C4 and C11 but the problem of the random triggering of breathing mode is still there. And the remote control is still working, so it seems that C4 and C11 do not actually break that path. I will give it a try, to remove that array of resistors next, will probably have a much lighter D1 model that can eventually be placed in the recycle bin.

arendst / Tasmota

Support for Sonoff D1 Dimmer #7598

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