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bigtreetech / BIGTREETECH-SKR-CR6

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ABL Not working and The Z home does not work as should. #12

Open terencepeace opened 3 years ago

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

I have a CR-6 SR with the BTT CR6 V1 motherboard and a TFT70.

I home Z so I can do a ABL. But I notice that it hits the bed to hard each time that the strut bends. When it has finished the Home Z, the nozzle is hitting the bed to much.

I do a ABL and save. I press the main home icon again and it it goes down to the bed to much that the blue light is on. So I use baby steps to get the distance right. And save that. I Press the main Home icon, and it still hits the bed.

So I do a G28 then a G29 then a M500. It's still the same. I can not get the gap between the bed and nozzle right. So I put a M420 S1 after the G28 in Cura and simplify3d. If you look at the picture you can see it does not work.

Using the Creality board. One just presses home and use the up\down icon to get the nozzle gap right. Can you fix this or give me some advice on what to do please? Thank you.

abl

I should of said that I have made sure a;; the screws under the glass bed are tight.

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

Is the support for the motherboard dead?

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

Still no help?

mpowerevox commented 3 years ago

I'm almost having a problem close to U From the right to the bed, the ABL is very bad. I don't know what the solution It's the second panel. The first one returned to Amazon. its Don't work. The second one works, but I didn't get excited about it. It's too slow.

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

I'm almost having a problem close to U From the right to the bed, the ABL is very bad. I don't know what the solution It's the second panel. The first one returned to Amazon. its Don't work. The second one works, but I didn't get excited about it. It's too slow.

The hotend is coming down to fat and putting pressure on the bed, So we will never get a good mesh.

I am talking to Bigtreetech. But I'm getting no where.

dream111119 commented 3 years ago

It is possible that the photoelectric sensor on the left side of the rack is not powered normally We tested sensor, it is no problem. You can also use 5V by directly connecting to 5V with Dupont or changing the resistor R53, as the picture below. Actually, it is R52. Note: when we move the 0R resistor, R53, to the red marked as the picture below (you should note the capacitor near it. You can also directly remove R53 and short-circuit both ends of the red marked as the picture below. So this socket becomes 5V power supply.

dream111119 commented 3 years ago

image

dream111119 commented 3 years ago
  1. The sensor on the gantry is not powered normally. According to the data sheet, the port on the SKR board provides 3.3V voltage, but the sensor needs 5V voltage. You may also need to add a resistor to the STM32 processor on the signal pin.
dream111119 commented 3 years ago

@terencepeace

terencepeace commented 3 years ago
  1. The sensor on the gantry is not powered normally. According to the data sheet, the port on the SKR board provides 3.3V voltage, but the sensor needs 5V voltage. You may also need to add a resistor to the STM32 processor on the signal pin.

I can not do any of that because I'm disabled. Wish I could :)

Why is the hotend hitting the bed so hard? I see the rail holding the hotend bending. This can't be good. Can you at least bring down the hot slower and not press so hard?

Or is it because of the 5V problem? Thank you for your time.

Can you show me how to connect the 5V using a DuPont(wire) please.

j3ffrw commented 3 years ago

@terencepeace have you look into adjusting the the sensitivity of the strain gauge, from what I understand you're able to do an ABL so that means the photoelectric sensor sensor is working. The pilot lamp(red) in the sensor not lighting up is a known issue when using BTT board, but it doesn't affect the actual triggering of the sensor. Initially I had the same issue wherein the the hotend is digging too hard on the bed causing the bed to flex especially on the corners. I ended up adjusting the sensitivity of the strain gauge via RP1 and removing the bowden tube when doing a ABL procedure, I have "luke's hotend fix" so its easy to remove the tube. see my post on for pictures https://www.facebook.com/groups/cr6community/permalink/1005699113289813/

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

@terencepeace have you look into adjusting the the sensitivity of the strain gauge, from what I understand you're able to do an ABL so that means the photoelectric sensor sensor is working. The pilot lamp(red) in the sensor not lighting up is a known issue when using BTT board, but it doesn't affect the actual triggering of the sensor. Initially I had the same issue wherein the the hotend is digging too hard on the bed causing the bed to flex especially on the corners. I ended up adjusting the sensitivity of the strain gauge via RP1 and removing the bowden tube when doing a ABL procedure, I have "luke's hotend fix" so its easy to remove the tube. see my post on for pictures https://www.facebook.com/groups/cr6community/permalink/1005699113289813/

Thank you.

If I go back to stock the mesh is spot on. It never presses down on the bed and the mesh always works.

With this board it bends the cross member. The blue light comes on. but it keeps going down. That is not a sensor problem. I even used weighing scales like Sebastiaan Dammann said in a tut about the sensor. It still did it.

But BTT have told me they no longer sell the CR6 with the 5V problem. So that could be it. Maybe it was there first batch was rubbish? and I got one.

I will have to wait for a V2 version so I can use my TFT70 :(

j3ffrw commented 3 years ago

that sucks, they are essentially selling two "version 1.0 boards" , one w/ 5V issue and another w/o the 5V issue without having a way to identify which is which? @bigtreetech it might be good to just put SNAPSHOT on your version if you don't intend you use proper versioning.

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

that sucks, they are essentially selling two "version 1.0 boards" , one w/ 5V issue and another w/o the 5V issue without having a way to identify which is which? @bigtreetech it might be good to just put SNAPSHOT on your version if you don't intend you use proper versioning.

Yep.

I tried Sebastiaan Dammann custom version for this board and it still hit the bed way to hard.

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

that sucks, they are essentially selling two "version 1.0 boards" , one w/ 5V issue and another w/o the 5V issue without having a way to identify which is which? @bigtreetech it might be good to just put SNAPSHOT on your version if you don't intend you use proper versioning.

I would like to know how to wire up the 5V so I can try it to see if it's a bad board.

Sebazzz commented 3 years ago

If you think the optical sensor has anything to do with the leveling accuracy on this printer, then you don't know how the leveling system works. I did a write-up earlier about it. In fact, there is not much Marlin can do at all, except for mitigating inaccuracy by doing a few tricks. The real interesting stuff happens in the hotend daughter board, but Creality didn't release source code for that, and even if they did, it is not easily user-updatable.

terencepeace commented 3 years ago

Thank you.

I will read it later

Thank you for working hard on your own version of software.

BTT has refunded me. The other guy who got the new version, says it works out the box. And he had the same problem as me.

BTT must of changed something in production?

Terry. . On 2 Mar 2021, at 23:06, Sebastiaan Dammann notifications@github.com<mailto:notifications@github.com> wrote:

If you think the optical sensor has anything to do with the leveling accuracy on this printer, then you don't know how the leveling system works. I did a write-up earlier about ithttps://damsteen.nl/blog/2021/01/19/mounting-the-biqu-h2-to-creality-cr6#the-cr-6-se-bed-leveling-system-recap. In fact, there is not much Marlin can do at all, except for mitigating inaccuracy by doing a few tricks. The real interesting stuff happens in the hotend daughter board, but Creality didn't release source code for that, and even if they did, it is not easily user-updatable.

— You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHubhttps://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-CR6/issues/12#issuecomment-789287834, or unsubscribehttps://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AHNS4GUBD5QQWEYAUPDUPRTTBVVPHANCNFSM4XQHWJSQ.

Thinkersbluff commented 2 years ago

I have a CR-6 SR with the BTT CR6 V1 motherboard and a TFT70.

I home Z so I can do a ABL. But I notice that it hits the bed to hard each time that the strut bends. When it has finished the Home Z, the nozzle is hitting the bed to much.

I do a ABL and save. I press the main home icon again and it it goes down to the bed to much that the blue light is on. So I use baby steps to get the distance right. And save that. I Press the main Home icon, and it still hits the bed.

So I do a G28 then a G29 then a M500. It's still the same. I can not get the gap between the bed and nozzle right. So I put a M420 S1 after the G28 in Cura and simplify3d. If you look at the picture you can see it does not work.

Using the Creality board. One just presses home and use the up\down icon to get the nozzle gap right. Can you fix this or give me some advice on what to do please? Thank you.

abl

I should of said that I have made sure a;; the screws under the glass bed are tight.

The Creality stock firmware performs ABL with a short, sharp, “knock” on glass. The Community Firmware is designed to use feather-light taps. That difference in philosophy seems to require a change to the activation force. User’s choice to favour one firmware over the other. Both work in their own way to their own performance standards.