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bigtreetech / BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3

BIGTREETECH SKR-mini-E3 motherboard is a ultra-quiet, low-power, high-quality 3D printing machine control board. It is launched by the 3D printing team of Shenzhen BIGTREE technology co., LTD. This board is specially tailored for Ender 3 printer, perfectly replacing the original Ender3 printer motherboard.
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Skr Mini E3 1.2 problem to flash : complile ok but the ender 3 didn't boot, screen is just blue #61

Closed thedark20 closed 4 years ago

thedark20 commented 4 years ago

Hi; i try to flash my SKR mini E3 1.2 with newest firmware i took here.

I configure all requirement like it is specified here in the readme : https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V1.2

but after insert the sdcard, i see the led flashing and nothing.. blue screen.. i got the cur file on sdcard also with the bin. i don't understand what i miss thanks for help me to understand and solve this things

Marlin-2.0.x-SKR-Mini-E3-V1.2 config files.zip

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

Oh you have BLtouch clone, keep in mind I've only tested this using a genuine BLtouch 3.1, but with that said...

I'm puzzled by your statement "when i press bed levelling", this is not how you use a bltouch (or clone presumably)...

Typically you setup your slicer to insert a G29 after the G28 in your start gcode.

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

Oh you have BLtouch clone, keep in mind I've only tested this using a genuine BLtouch 3.1, but with that said...

I'm puzzled by your statement "when i press bed levelling", this is not how you use a bltouch (or clone presumably)...

Typically you setup your slicer to insert a G29 after the G28 in your start gcode.

Aaaah oké. Well i have a Trianglelab 3Dtouch and Many say it is the same as the BLTouch. I have no clue how to put in G codes in the cura slicer. I just put in my settings and press slice and i print it =|

I have watched a few video's on YouTube and they all press bed leveling first and than start the print.

swordfish45 commented 4 years ago

Oh you have BLtouch clone, keep in mind I've only tested this using a genuine BLtouch 3.1, but with that said... I'm puzzled by your statement "when i press bed levelling", this is not how you use a bltouch (or clone presumably)... Typically you setup your slicer to insert a G29 after the G28 in your start gcode.

Aaaah oké. Well i have a Trianglelab 3Dtouch and Many say it is the same as the BLTouch. I have no clue how to put in G codes in the cura slicer. I just put in my settings and press slice and i print it =|

I have watched a few video's on YouTube and they all press bed leveling first and than start the print.

In Cura under machine profile there is start and end gcode. Add g29 after the g28 line

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

Oh you have BLtouch clone, keep in mind I've only tested this using a genuine BLtouch 3.1, but with that said... I'm puzzled by your statement "when i press bed levelling", this is not how you use a bltouch (or clone presumably)... Typically you setup your slicer to insert a G29 after the G28 in your start gcode.

Aaaah oké. Well i have a Trianglelab 3Dtouch and Many say it is the same as the BLTouch. I have no clue how to put in G codes in the cura slicer. I just put in my settings and press slice and i print it =| I have watched a few video's on YouTube and they all press bed leveling first and than start the print.

In Cura under machine profile there is start and end gcode. Add g29 after the g28 line

I found it and added the G29 code, TNX! But i still cant see the Z lead moving while printing after leveling.

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

Please be a little more forthcoming with information.

But you seem to imply that the printer successfully moves the Z lead while probing the 9 points on your printbed? If so, your Z stepper is likely connected properly, and thus I'd suspect slicer settings.

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

Please take a look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8WlB8wUHuU Also, posting a video of your issue will likely be quite enlightening...

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

Please take a look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8WlB8wUHuU Also, posting a video of your issue will likely be quite enlightening...

Yea im sorry for that, ill try to give some more info also im going to start a xyz cube soon so ill try to film the start.

I got a Ender 3 pro with yellow springs, glass bed, Trianglelab 3Dtouch and a bigtreetech skr mini e3 v1.2 board. Printing with inofill3D pro1 filament.

When i added the G29 code after the G28 and he does that! When i load the print it heats up and goes bed leveling. But when it starts to print he puts down the line and i dont see the Z lead moving for compansation.

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

Well, that's another matter entirely... so you don't see your Z lead moving during a layer, not between layers...

And to be honest I've never obviously noticed that, because keep in mind if all is well those changes in Z should be really tiny. Larger changes should be addressed by "bed level corners", not auto bed leveling.

So in my also somewhat limited experience it seems you're looking for a problem where there isn't one?

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

Well, that's another matter entirely... so you don't see your Z lead moving during a layer, not between layers...

And to be honest I've never obviously noticed that, because keep in mind if all is well those changes in Z should be really tiny. Larger changes should be addressed by "bed level corners", not auto bed leveling.

So in my also somewhat limited experience it seems you're looking for a problem where there isn't one?

Well, if it should compansate 0.1mm (thats how curvy my bed is and cant get it better even with corner leveling) i was thinking you should see the Z lead moving because he has to compensatie 0.1mm right? Tell me if in wrong!! Because than in worried about nothing :)

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

How large is the print you're testing this with? Keep in mind if you have a 0.1mm dip over the full length of your bed, this will be next to nothing on a 5 cm print. You may want to try printing a 20x20cm square.

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

How large is the print you're testing this with? Keep in mind if you have a 0.1mm dip over the full length of your bed, this will be next to nothing on a 5 cm print. You may want to try printing a 20x20cm square.

Sorry for my late reaction! Everything seems to work doe so far but sometimes when i start the print he does 1 bed level point and the 3dprobe is blinking and or just starts to print (it does work so...)

But now my extruder starts clicking after i installed the skr mini v1.2 board with TMX2209 UART, my extruder is cslibrated, my nozzle is not to close to bed, my speed is between 50 and 60 so not that slow and i have no clogs.

Hou have any idea?

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

Just seeing one "bed level point" in the center means it's just doing Z homing, so really no bed leveling at all, which means you forgot to add G29, or are re-using a previously generated gcode before you added G29. If it does have G29, you BLtouch might be off, you can adjust it using the hexnut at the top, as already mentioned on my repository.

As far as step skipping goes on the extruder, if you'd have researched the TMC drivers a little, you'd have noticed it has multiple modes, like the popular silent but weaker StealthChop and the more powerful but louder SpreadCycle. If I recall correctly you can switch between via the menu, you might try SpreadCycle.

If you'd have browsed recent Marlin commits, you might have noticed: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/commit/329f5b4df97111a7f8019292aa3ac6713e0656ff HYBRID_THRESHOLD makes Marlin automatically switch between the two, but the upstream thresholds seem excessively conservative to me, making the printer louder than it needs to be.

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

Just seeing one "bed level point" in the center means it's just doing Z homing, so really no bed leveling at all, which means you forgot to add G29, or are re-using a previously generated gcode before you added G29. If it does have G29, you BLtouch might be off, you can adjust it using the hexnut at the top, as already mentioned on my repository.

As far as step skipping goes on the extruder, if you'd have researched the TMC drivers a little, you'd have noticed it has multiple modes, like the popular silent but weaker StealthChop and the more powerful but louder SpreadCycle. If I recall correctly you can switch between via the menu, you might try SpreadCycle.

If you'd have browsed recent Marlin commits, you might have noticed: MarlinFirmware/Marlin@329f5b4 HYBRID_THRESHOLD makes Marlin automatically switch between the two, but the upstream thresholds seem excessively conservative to me, making the printer louder than it needs to be.

I have the G29 code in cura and it is when i printed something and start another print he does the middle point and when he is at 1/9 bed level points it touches the bed 1 time and the bltouch keep blinking and the pin stays out so it hits my bed....

I havent read all your settings because i dont understand platformIO. So i have no idea of my stepperdriver is the same as yours. I will check the setting you told me but havent seen it so far.

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

@HeathNL : I just posted a new firmware build on my repo that has hybrid threshold enabled, so you can adjust the speeds (via Advanced Configuration) at which your Trinamic stepper drivers will switch from StealthChop to SpreadCycle for more torque.

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

@HeathNL : I just posted a new firmware build on my repo that has hybrid threshold enabled, so you can adjust the speeds (via Advanced Configuration) at which your Trinamic stepper drivers will switch from StealthChop to SpreadCycle for more torque.

This also works on a Ender 3 Pro? 😁

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

This also works on a Ender 3 Pro? grin

Huh? You have an Ender 3 Pro upgraded with an SKR mini E3 V1.2 board right? Then that's exactly what my firmware is intended for. Weren't you already using my firmware?

Presumably you're confusing the stepper motors on the Ender 3 with the Trinamic stepper driver chips on the SKR mini E3.

TerryFrench commented 4 years ago

Also as Pascal wrote, the hybrid mode is quite noisy in its default setting. Adjust the value if you use it.

Sent from my mobile device

On Jan 1, 2020, at 13:14, Pascal de Bruijn notifications@github.com wrote:

 This also works on a Ender 3 Pro? grin

Huh? You have an Ender 3 Pro upgraded with an SKR mini E3 V1.2 board right? Then that's exactly what my firmware is intended for. Weren't you already using my firmware?

Presumably you're confusing the stepper motors on the Ender 3 with the Trinamic stepper driver chips on the SKR mini E3.

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HeathNL commented 4 years ago

This also works on a Ender 3 Pro? grin

Huh? You have an Ender 3 Pro upgraded with an SKR mini E3 V1.2 board right? Then that's exactly what my firmware is intended for. Weren't you already using my firmware?

Presumably you're confusing the stepper motors on the Ender 3 with the Trinamic stepper driver chips on the SKR mini E3.

Yes i'm using your firmware :D Sorry i readed to fast so i misunderstood, i tought your repo was your printer.

Than i think i have to deal with the clicking noise... I dont want the printer to make more noise thats why i bought the SKR.

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

Heey Pascal,

I'm using your firmware for a while now and i love it! My Trianglelab 3Dtouch seems to work and do his job good!

But i only have stringing problems now after the flash, do you have any idea what could cause this? I have tryed new filament (PLA), other brands, lower temp, retraction distance and speed, combing on and off, coasting, nozzle whipe and i can keep going what i tryed more.

Could thare be anything in the firmware what could cause more stringing?

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

I just pushed a new updated firmware (please do read the README as there are some changes as opposed to previous versions).

Also, keep in mind that filaments can absord moisture and nozzles wear out.

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

I just pushed a new updated firmware (please do read the README as there are some changes as opposed to previous versions).

Also, keep in mind that filaments can absord moisture and nozzles wear out.

Ill try your new firmware tomorrow or this weekend.

Yes i know, but its also with new filament and different brands.

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

BTW, do you have your bowden tube secured with those blue collet clips? or lacking them some tyraps? If your bowden tube isn't properly secured, it sortof defeats your retractions...

HeathNL commented 4 years ago

No clips but i put on new fittings, some industrial ones we use on our work. And didnt see the PTFE moving. Only when i had a cloch 1 time.

pmjdebruijn commented 4 years ago

I didn't see mine move either, then I put tyraps around them, and suddenly stringing reduced significantly. Combined with 5-6mm of retraction at 80mm/sec I have almost no stringing anymore, even on torture tests.