Open Bexman opened 1 year ago
Same issue here, sensor seems dead :( , started to face @Bexman issues randomly at the beginning. Querying endstop status stow and deployed returned always TRIGGERED status and not able to do homing any more, changed to SuperPinda to fix my issues as currently no replacements showed on BIQU Store.
Same issue here, sensor seems dead :( , started to face @Bexman issues randomly at the beginning. Querying endstop status stow and deployed returned always TRIGGERED status and not able to do homing any more, changed to SuperPinda to fix my issues as currently no replacements showed on BIQU Store.
Yes, unfortunately in my case it is a mechanical problem. It looks like there was an issue with build quality. Even if the pin is free to move up and down, there is no electrical contact when released. My version was sealed with "superglue" (Cyanoacrylate). The superglue evaporates and leaves a coating on the contacts. There are several contact points in the design that are not soldered in any way. In particular, the spring through which the contact is transmitted. It is problematic to clean the contacts, since you need to disassemble it without damaging it. In case someone wants to fix it, before disassembly, you need to unscrew the pin. It is screwed on.
I started getting this error after installing BIQU Hurakan Dual Z Upgrade Kit 1060000584. It's a config problem I think that occurs when you install a second z motor. Not sure if i have to mod Klipper config file or something else related to the MCU?
I started getting this error after installing BIQU Hurakan Dual Z Upgrade Kit 1060000584. It's a config problem I think that occurs when you install a second z motor. Not sure if i have to mod Klipper config file or something else related to the MCU?
I would recommend double checking all your connections. There is nothing needed to be changed in the configuration. It's utilizing a parallel circuit that shares the single Z stepper driver. It's full on plug and play. There is a high chance that a plug was knocked out of alignment while adding the second motor connection. A poor connection can cause intermittent issues.
I am having the same issue. After trying a few ideas on my own BIQU support said it was a faulty probe and is sending me another one. Hopefully that works but I really hate paying full price to be a beta tester for new hardware. Ive had this machine for weeks and haven't even been able to home the z axis let alone load any filament.
I just assembled my Hurakan and have been getting it set up to print...for two days.
I cannot get the probe to work. In the process of probing, it deploys, but the red light on the LED does not always illuminate, and takes several attempts to get a reading without any errors. Furthermore, bed leveling (creating a heightmap) fails partly through because the probe seems to get stuck or malfunction.
3:58 PM Endstop z still triggered after retract 3:58 PM G28 Z 3:58 PM G28 X Y 3:58 PM Endstop z still triggered after retract 3:58 PM g28 3:58 PM Endstop z still triggered after retract 3:58 PM g28
I just assembled my Hurakan and have been getting it set up to print...for two days.
I cannot get the probe to work. In the process of probing, it deploys, but the red light on the LED does not always illuminate, and takes several attempts to get a reading without any errors. Furthermore, bed leveling (creating a heightmap) fails partly through because the probe seems to get stuck or malfunction.
3:58 PM Endstop z still triggered after retract 3:58 PM G28 Z 3:58 PM G28 X Y 3:58 PM Endstop z still triggered after retract 3:58 PM g28 3:58 PM Endstop z still triggered after retract 3:58 PM g28
Get in touch with BIQU support through their website. They ended up sending me two more probes. The first one would randomly fail during probing but the second one worked. I have printed a bunch of stuff on my Hurakan now.
Hello,
I've been having a problem with the probe on my Hurakan "endstop z still triggered after retract" for some time.
It seems to work correctly, it extends the probe when starting (3 times) and the blue LED lights up.
I've ordered a new probe, but the problem remains the same.
I've looked at various sites but can't find a convincing solution. Do you have any ideas?
I've noticed that if I tap on the probe (the old one) the LED turns red and I don't get the error. I've completely dismantled the head to check all the connector soldering, and there doesn't seem to be a problem there.
Hello, I have same problem "Endstop z still triggered after retract" when try to home all axes. I found out that if I turn off the printer and let it cool down completely, then after turning it on, the homing of the Z axis usually works. I also found out that the probe can be temporarily repaired by removing it from the hava, disconnecting it from the cable and reconnecting it, then it always works normally for a while. I suspect that there may be a problem on the electronic board inside the print head where the probe, fans, etc. are connected, but I have not found out if it can be bought as a spare part. Does anyone know if it's a record to buy? At first I thought that the error was related to the thermal load during printing, but even if the printer remains inactive for a long time after switching on, the error will also manifest itself. I tried to solve this problem with Biqu but they are not reactin on tickets. So a I open a ticket with banggood and I'm waiting to see if they send me a new probe and if that doesn't fix the problem I'll start disassembling the print head and looking for some bad connections. i will be happy if any of can help me solve this problem.
Thx Zbynek
Hi all! Printer cannot print. After homing, nothing happens. Clipper gives you an error: "Endstop z still triggered after retract" When the printer is turned on, the sensor pin clicks several times. It slides in and out freely on its own. Maybe someone faced such a problem?
Hello, my English is bad so I translated this with the help of Google so as not to take too long any questions about what I wrote put it here I will be checking.
After dealing with the BiQu Huracan 3D printer for 1 year and since I was looking for the same answers for the same time, I dare to share what I have learned through trial and error. It seems that the "Endstop z still triggered after retract" problem can be caused by 3 different situations.
1 The head thermistor is very sensitive because in my case it arrived damaged and burned, if yours is in good condition you can try to rearrange the cable a little with tweezers with the machine off, and you will notice that this problem will be intermittent, you just have to find the position of the thermistor lead in which it operates. The most knowledgeable will realize that this is due to a short in the thermistor connector to the board if you have the experience and knowledge of repairing it, congratulations and I ask that you upload a video of how you did it, if you do not have such knowledge as I just move the cable a little and it works.
2 The damaged sensor, this is easy to identify when you turn on your machine, the head light should turn on 6 times, that is, once blue and once red, red when it comes out and blue when it retracts, if you do this cycle 3 times your sensor works ( I found out about this since I bought another sensor as soon as it went on sale and I realized that the one I had worked and the new one I bought never worked. In these comments, a colleague already explained how to fix it in case this is your case). If the metal stick comes out of your probe and sometimes the red light comes on and sometimes it doesn't, it is most likely the thermistor.
3 Printer.cfg I don't understand why, but it is very easy to damage the SD card by modifying these codes or so I think so trying to fix the error "Endstop z still triggered after retract" try to check the code with which it arrived only by sight comparing it with some that I found on the internet in the end did nothing and seeing that the people of Bi Ku shared the operating system (the system image) I decided to change it to a new SD resulting in the repair of almost all the problems for around 3 months, although I already need to do it again but I have forgotten how I did it the first time, if someone knows, please tell me (at that time I became obsessed with the printer and that's how I found out how to do it the first time but I can't do that anymore)
Hello Cuent0, Ihad probably the same problem. In my case it was faulty microprobe v1. When i changed it to BQ microprobe v2, everything is working well. I was asking Bigtreetech with that but I get no response. I get microprobe in warranty for free from Banggod after dozens of emails, videos photos etc. at the end.
Before I get new microprobe v2 I was able to start print with this little trick:
It seems that the microprobe v1 is serial faulty, this problem happens to all owners of this printer I was talking with. Microprobe V2 sems to be beter construction, feels more solid. Replacin probe is easy: two bolts, one cable. In firmware you need to modify generic-bigtreetech-mp4-hurakan.cfg file. You have to find probe settings and add exclamation mark in front of PC14. See attached photo, line 32. Than you should run microprobe Z offset calibration. The procedure is described in the microprobe V2 manual. New microprobe is something significant shorter and there is a risk that nozzle will touch heatbed without calibration.
Firmware and SD card theme If you are playing with config and firmware is allways better to have two or three SD cards and backup runnig firmware to them. I am using Balena Etcher software for clone sd card files. When I was solving probe problems I was close to corrupt config files totaly and lost all fimware copy... It is also not easy to update all firmware becasue not every Klipper is working with other mainsail... And for somebody who don´t understand it deeply is better to stay with older working firmware than get bricked with new one.
Hope it will help and you will solve the problem. Printer Hurakan is good quality, but support from manufacturer is HORRIBLE!
Again sorry for the bad English.
I thought I was the only one who had tried the trick of removing the sensor with small tweezers. That worked for me once a few months ago but it hasn't worked again. A few days ago I saw the live that the company did, hoping that they would resolve more things but no. Currently I think the best solution will be to download the older iso image and keep my first probe, I imagine it is a V1. The truth is, I lost the manual that came with the new one, now I think I have 2 BQ microprobe v1.
Hi, having the same issue, got the printer for christmas and i have done couple of prints but suddenly i couldnt home the z axis if pull out the probe little bit it homes fine but fails bed calibration. Judging by these comments i should get probe v2 and try if it works. Like zbynek said customer support is horrible. Thx. Děkuji Zbyňku.
Another one with the same problem!!!
hello, same for me here.
I ordered the v2.0 probe to change the ^!PC14.
Home ok
Mesh failure at the 5th point on x axis. No trigger on probe after full movement
I don't know what to do anymore, this printer is a disaster
Just adding myself to the mix. I have the same problem. Got a v2 probe, which fixed the problem of the probe not working at all. Only to be stuck with this error and no way to fix it that I can find. I've been talking in circles with support but they've been less than helpful.
I'm concerned that I've gone past my return window so I may be stuck with having to engineer my way out of this nonsense. I don't know if that's fixable through software surgery or replacing the M4P board altogether.
hello, same for me here. I ordered the v2.0 probe to change the ^!PC14. Home ok Mesh failure at the 5th point on x axis.
No trigger on probe after full movement
I don't know what to do anymore, this printer is a disaster
It should be matter to the heat bed , manually level the heat bed via the 4 black nut under the heat bed what a A4 paper and then do a leveling again
Son of a....the heat bed has to be on and heating. I only set it to 30c but the homing and the height map worked without issue. Now to try a print...
The bead heater should not have anything to do with probing. That is very unusual if it only works when the heater is on. I would suggest further investigations on why that is so.
Only required it the first time. Now my problem is that despite the probe doing a height map, saving the config and restarting, the head still crashes into the board. Trying all kinds of Z offsets and nothing seems to make a difference. I'll keep experimenting.
Z offset had to be zeroed out. The config file has the offset commented out (which I think is correct) but the default seems to be the same 2.6 offset. I used the web interface to zero the Z offset and it's working fine now. Successfully printed test01 and I'm currently printing test02-circle. Painful getting to this point but maybe I'll have some luck from here out.
Hi All, Please check for the instruction Q:New microprobe is something significant shorter A: The probe lengths of both versions are the same. The trigger positions are the same as well. Due to structural and design, the maximum extension size of V2 would be a little shorter. Q:There is a risk that nozzle will touch Hurakan heatbed without calibration. A:1.When replacing the microprobe There is a high probability that when installing the print head, the print head of the hurakan is heads up So press down on the print head of the hurakan when locking the screws. Refer to the video to reinstall the print head and press down on the print head. https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?ref=watch_permalink&v=286972584316996 2.It could be result from the heat bed not enough flat,uses screw tilt adjust for the bed Manually level the heat bed with A4 paper through the 4 plum nuts underneath the heat bed Main menu-------manual level -----control------right let ..... (we need to home all at first) Finally do a Z offset calibration according to the manual for microprobe v2 Q:Home ok Mesh failure at the 5th point on x axis. No trigger on probe after full movement A:It could be result from the heat bed not enough flat ,uses screw tilt adjust for the bed Manually level the heat bed with A4 paper through the 4 plum nuts underneath the heat bed Main menu-------manual level -----control------right let ..... (we need to home all at first) Finally do a Z offset calibration according to the manual for microprobe v2 Q:Home fail A:For the microprobe v2, you need to modify generic-bigtreetech-mp4-hurakan.cfg file. And find probe settings and add exclamation mark in front of PC14. See attached photo, It also could be fix via updating the latest image Hurakan-MicroProbe-V2-2023-08-08.img.xz at 1tags v1.0.0 https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIQU-Hurakan/releases/tag/V1.0.0 Q:Where can i get the MCU firmware for the Hurakan? A:Please check https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIQU-Hurakan/blob/main/firmware/klipper-config/firmware.bin
Some good news/bad news with this. The good news is that the oddly named Hurakan-Microprobe-V2 boot image appears to work relatively well and seems to be newer. More good news is that I can successfully run updates from the web interface. The bad news is that the Klipper update appears to have a broken repo and is saying it's "dirty". I'm going to try a hard reset. A soft reset didn't work.
A hard recovery on the Klipper repo allowed it to update to v0.11 but now it's yelling about the MCU firmware being out of date and needing to be updated. I'll go hunting for that firmware update but it would help to get that linked in here.
I'm not finding it, so I'd appreciate it if @BTTJUSTIN would provide an MCU firmware for the Hurakan that's compatible with Klipper v0.11.x.
It's "dirty" because it's a modified version of the original. It's not an error but is not going to update with the master repo. of Klipper. As for the firmware, you can make your own with the make menuconfig comman as described in the manta M4P repo. https://github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-M4P/tree/master/Firmware/Klipper
Solved the problem with the first version sensor I took it apart, there was a regular contact group, cleaned it, put it back together, and it works. There was a problem with it that during calibration it raised the z-axis up. In the configuration, I changed the settings that the manufacturer recommends for the version 2 sensor, only I removed the exclamation mark. In the second version sensor, an optical sensor is installed instead of a contact group. It may get clogged during operation.
Hi all! Printer cannot print. After homing, nothing happens. Clipper gives you an error: "Endstop z still triggered after retract" When the printer is turned on, the sensor pin clicks several times. It slides in and out freely on its own. Maybe someone faced such a problem?