Closed afbenevides closed 5 years ago
I haven't done much with the code. I've been moving and my pegasus is in a box. Once I'm able to get settled I'll try and open it up and see how things go. I'm sure it's a typo, so maybe if I get a chance this evening I'll attempt to fix the missing file.
from what i get you need a new board to use this right?
No dia quarta-feira, 22 de maio de 2019, doobie42 notifications@github.com escreveu:
I haven't done much with the code. I've been moving and my pegasus is in a box. Once I'm able to get settled I'll try and open it up and see how things go. I'm sure it's a typo, so maybe if I get a chance this evening I'll attempt to fix the missing file.
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I did not try it with the built in board, I got a new BBB directly as @doobie42 proposed
do you have a link to the one you got?
No dia quinta-feira, 23 de maio de 2019, afbenevides < notifications@github.com> escreveu:
I did not try it with the built in board, I got a new BBB directly as @doobie42 https://github.com/doobie42 proposed
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I took it on Digikey https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=BBB01-SC-505-ND
You may wish to compare prices, I'm pretty sure I used the wireless beaglebone black with success. It would save the need for a wired connection.
I'll confirm sometime this weekend if I can get a chance to grab the box out of storage and pop it open.
dam expensive piece of hardware ... maybe porting this to a arm32+raspi would be a better solution
OK, I push the changes that should help enable a compile to github.
Ok thanks I will try that, thanks a lot!
HI Doobie, my pegasus touch seams almost alive.
Do you know or someone else know the spacing of the grid for calibration? Tried to download from the site but wiki is down.
Also, I can run the galvo calibration, I can see the laser dot (that is why I'm looking for the calibration grid) but the z does not seem to work. Maybe something is wrong in my connections.
Does someone has a photo of the board with wires attached?
So I checked all wiring according to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCa616iFqBw&list=PLRhV54_kAGWTsPdzRNcGqUWNiridHccYr&index=9 and all seams ok, but still no Z movement.
If you have an idea feel free to tell me.
For the calibration grid targets, I found this in the google group of fsl3d:
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!category-topic/fsl3d/-n_oTSmL1L8
Should be the file i needed so just posted here if anyone else is searching for it.
For the Z axis, I tried with original BBB and the printer moves, so there is no hardware problem. I will try to understand what is going on in the code, but @doobie42 your knowledge would certainly help.
Photos of my Pegasus, https://photos.app.goo.gl/jAxs5vE5puoAWkZZ8
I opened it to remove the Stock beaglebone and managed to break the SD card trying to remove it :P. And that killed the SD, guess i'll be using the stock beaglebone to install @doobie42 firmware :)
Saving the calibration file on this thread for future reference ;) calibration_pattern.pdf
@X3msnake did you get it working? Still stuck with the z axis not working here. There is maybe something I forgot in the steps so looking forward to your trial and results.
need to backup the old firmware from the beagle memory first.
have you had any experience doing that?
No dia terça-feira, 25 de junho de 2019, afbenevides < notifications@github.com> escreveu:
@X3msnake https://github.com/X3msnake did you get it working? Still stuck with the z axis not working here. There is maybe something I forgot in the steps so looking forward to your trial and results.
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No but I thought you had found a way with the link you sent (https://elinux.org/BeagleBone_Black_Extracting_eMMC_contents).
Did you try it? In my case I have just bought the second BBB to test this firmware. The stock BeagleBone is still working.
Not yet, we have been renovating the printing room at work so all printers have been offline. I have no experience with Beaglebones only Raspi, but i believe it is probably similar except for the permanent flash memory right?
if the z axis is not working, the issue is almost likely the DTB not being setup/loaded correctly. It's been a while since I looked into them, so google is likely your best friend. I'm 99% sure I provided versions for both BBB and BBB wireless; and you'll likely need the right one (though wireless might work on a non-wireless)
@afbenevides can you check my backup upload on #9 and see if you can use it to restore on your machine and if it works?
@X3msnake @doobie42 Just sent a pull request with the install scripts I used to gain control of my machine
Please accept the pull request and please try and tell me if it works for you too.
So when I say it works, I should say that there are still work to be done.
Home switch on bottom doesn't seem to be recognize When i start an stp fil the plate goes full up non stop...
So needs some work, and I would be interested in continuing. Your help will make it easier for sure
Status now:
1-Z axis can move up ( i can make it move down also by modifying/inverting the ABDdir GPIO call in the moveZ function of z-axis.cxx....but this still is not making it working properly)
2-galvo function works and moves the galvo as supposed... so it should work well.
3-OPEN LID switch works because it doesn't start a print if the lid is open...
If any idea please let me know.
Finally in one of my hundreds of time I took the board appart to add or remove the SD card, i mixed the location of the connector and limit was always seen as TRUE.... Now got the printer working. I will start real calibration work now!
Thanks @doobie42 for this code, the printer will live!
awsome news master.
afbenevides notifications@github.com escreveu no dia quinta, 1/08/2019 à(s) 18:19:
Finally in one of my hundreds of time I took the board appart to add or remove the SD card, i mixed the location of the connector and limit was always seen as TRUE.... Now got the printer working. I will start real calibration work now!
Thanks @doobie42 https://github.com/doobie42 for this code, the printer will live!
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No luck today, couldn't make it stick to the plate.
Is the conversion to the FEP vat a must?
Also do you know where we can get these pieces nowadays? Are there other printers vat that fit the pegasus? Or maybe will build it with FEP film from amazon^
that is most likely a levelling issue.
vest way to fix that is to use a plate with the same size as the inside of your vat and put the zero with a paper sheet. you should be able to pulll but not push the paper in.
i have taken mesuments for the vat and i believe the peopoly fepvat for the moai200 might fit.
i was not aware pegasus had a fep vat at all
some photos and general info that i collected is on www.openmachines.xyz
No dia sexta-feira, 2 de agosto de 2019, afbenevides < notifications@github.com> escreveu:
No luck today, couldn't make it stick to the plate.
Is the conversion to the FEP vat a must?
Also do you know where we can get these pieces nowadays? Are there other printers vat that fit the pegasus? Or maybe will build it with FEP film from amazon^
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I've never used a FEP. I was trying to design one, but I never made progress on it. Your issue sounds very much like your build plate is not lowered enough down. It does need to be calibrated to get that working.
IIRC there is a setup tool for that, but you may need to manually edit the calib file. Put the build plate, and vat in the machine. Run the script; it'll find the home. Then you put a piece of paper in the vat, and lower the build plate via the calib tool until you can just barely wiggle the piece of paper. Also there are settings to increase intensity of the laser for the first (few) layers. You may need more power depending on your resin.
Is it this setting?
laser.firstlayersrepeat = 8
Yes I saw the zcal tool. The build plate is not that good too, it is a bit warped.
Thanks I continue tu try different settings to make a small part stick on a well placed part of the build plate
Yes that is the setting. I popped my printer out of storage. I'm not at a point where I'll be printing with it due to where I'm living, but I can get the controls back up and running....if I can find the power cord which is currently missing.
Hey i'm getting somewhere!!! First print with the pegasus and with the open firmware!
So now I need to do a good calibration of the laser and I guess of the Z too... but it should be quite close...
Now do you have good guides on how to properly fine tune laser exposition for a resin? I'm looking for maximum details on which sign indicates what correction is needed. If you know of a good source of information point it out I will go read it.
I really enjoy working with a fully open firmware! We can fine tune any part we want! Really great work @doobie42 . I will try to add wherever I can help with while improving the prints and use of the pegasus Touch open version!
I'm quite impressed. I don't have a guide for how to calibrate. I've only printed a handful of things before switching back to my FDM. I need to update my wifi network then ican reassemble my machine. So far that isn't going well...
Looks possibly like too much power, for the first layers for sure. Make sure you ran through the galvo calibrate too. Maybe also try various calibration objects too
there is a mathod for testing the light dosage that was used for ember
check it on www.openmachines.xyz i dropped a link there
No dia sábado, 3 de agosto de 2019, doobie42 notifications@github.com escreveu:
Looks possibly like too much power, for the first layers for sure. Make sure you ran through the galvo calibrate too. Maybe also try various calibration objects too
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Wow I do like this kind of informative Site! Thanks a lot will read and test. Just need to find the radiometer to measure.
you need a micrometer only. best to look at the dosage test for the form1 since it is a closer technology base is the same. the dosage of light will result in a certain layer height and that is the correct exposure for that layer height
No dia sábado, 3 de agosto de 2019, afbenevides notifications@github.com escreveu:
Wow I do like this kind of informative Site! Thanks a lot will read and test. Just need to find the radiometer to measure.
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https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Working-Curve-Measurement-on-the-Form1/
No dia sábado, 3 de agosto de 2019, afbenevides notifications@github.com escreveu:
Wow I do like this kind of informative Site! Thanks a lot will read and test. Just need to find the radiometer to measure.
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i had a first try at the working curve, but the print file did not go well. I will improve the file and post it later when it works
But now I would like to understand better the calibration file.
In the calibration there is always the light intensity( witch should be measured with a radiometer). Do you know what it should be for the pegasus printer?
Does the dot size is a kind of power control of the laser? Or a spacing for positioning behaviours? Should it match what we put in slic3R?
Can you confirm my comments @doobie42 ? I would like to update that file to make use of it. Also, I did not go through the complete code, so maybe some answers will be found when I do, but if you have some answers directly it will save me some time
Thanks
===================== ; comment ( TO DELETE) debug.value = 0x000 (what is that for?) ;debug.value = 0xFFFF ( TO DELETE) ;debug.value = 0x0C100 ( TO DELETE) ;disable Z = 0x4000 ( TO DELETE) ;debug.value = 0x40ef( TO DELETE) ;disable galvo ( TO DELETE) ;debug.value = 0x8020 ( TO DELETE) ;disable Z+Galvo ( TO DELETE) ;debug.value = 0xc0ef ( TO DELETE) ;debug.value = 0xffff ( TO DELETE) laser.pattern = 0xffff (what is the laser pattern, and what is the influences? I would add the possible values with explanation once I understand better. laser.repeat = 0x1 ( Number of passes of the compiled version of laser) ( kind of power regulation)
laser.spotsize = 80 (is that the size of the laser dot?) How did you measure and in what units? laser.usehypot = 1 ; required don't turn; only for testing (what is that ?)
; repeat the first X layers ; number of layers to repeat laser.firstlayers = 8 ( number of layers in the beginning that will behave with same settings as first layer) ; number of times to repeat first layers laser.firstlayersrepeat = 8 (kind of power setting for first layer) ;laser.firstlayers = 1 ( TO DELETE) ;laser.firstlayersrepeat = 1 ( TO DELETE)
;; old code section start ; This calibrates the rought X/Y; this is for the short-term. We need a matrix transormation to get it better. x.scalemm = 340 (Is that section still used or is it now the calibrate script that does it?) y.scalemm = 340 ; offset to where we can start printing; in ticks, divide by scale to determine how many MM from edge x.offset = 2750 y.offset = 2750 ;; old code section end ; estimated zaxis z.scalemm = 200
; How far to lift after a layer completes (in ticks; divide by scalemm=how far in MM) z.liftdistance = 2000 ; Pause after layer is printed before lifting z.liftpause = 500000 ; 1 second(s) z.liftsteps = 1 ; Pause after lift before lowering for next layer z.lowerpause = 500000 ; .5 second(s) ; Pause after lowering before starting print z.printpause = 500000 ; 1 second(s) z.donelift = 1600 ; lift after print is done z.maxlift = 35000 ; limit to move up
; z axis motion tuning z.initialacd = 6000 ; initial stepper motor acceleration delay z.accconst = 270 ; ratio for slope; lower const means faster acceleration
; Indicates how far below limit switch your vat is located. Don't make it too low or you'll smash your build plate into the vat. ; GUI has a calibrate Z that can be used to find the depth; doesn't save to file z.belowlimit = 1080
; new calibration method. general.matrix = 1 `include galvo.txt
reading the spec sheet, i understand that the spotsize is 80um per spec.
correct.
on the form1+ running the openFL firmware we have access to a laser power value in miliwatts and a laser xy speed
the dosage per centimeter is a mater of how much power speed is set.
you can have the same dosage with various powers
ex you can see on you can achieve 4 on the table below with a multitude of choices
pwr/spd
0 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6 7 3 4 5 6 7 8
the objectivo is to use the fastest speed that keeps quality and the lowest laser power for a given dosage.
No dia quarta-feira, 7 de agosto de 2019, afbenevides < notifications@github.com> escreveu:
reading the spec sheet, i understand that the spotsize is 80um per spec.
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here is the ini file that sets the speed/power settings for the OpenFL form1 firmware
No dia quarta-feira, 7 de agosto de 2019, Vinicius Silva x3msnake@gmail.com escreveu:
correct.
on the form1+ running the openFL firmware we have access to a laser power value in miliwatts and a laser xy speed
the dosage per centimeter is a mater of how much power speed is set.
you can have the same dosage with various powers
ex you can see on you can achieve 4 on the table below with a multitude of choices
pwr/spd
0 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6 7 3 4 5 6 7 8
the objectivo is to use the fastest speed that keeps quality and the lowest laser power for a given dosage.
No dia quarta-feira, 7 de agosto de 2019, afbenevides < notifications@github.com> escreveu:
reading the spec sheet, i understand that the spotsize is 80um per spec.
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the power setting in here isn't based on mw. I didn't have the conversion or a meter to determine how much is needed. It uses PWM to indicate how much power, basically it has a HEX value that detemrines turning on/off the laser (at a very fast rate) and a repeat rate for that PWM. Based on how long it is on for it'll use a certain power level.
The spot size is used for how far to move between spots. I'm always looking forward to new ideas. I however do not have the ability to run the printer with resin at this time due to the location of where the printer is setup to make any radical changes.
@doobie42 ok I will look in to it, but for now I can't print anymore... I have to understand what is my problem.
I did a logbook of my tests today, if you want to have a look and comment or if you have some ideas...
https://github.com/afbenevides/OpenPegasus/blob/test/Tests_log_book/Tests_LOG_BOOK.txt
Can't stick to the build plate anymore... always on pdms... I also changed my build plate... maybe the finish is not good... I guess I will continue tomorrow...
Are you getting the resin to harden when you tested? Have you attempted to adjust the zaxis? If you are too high or too low you may not get the first layers to stick. Also note that in longer prints, I was running into issues where printing could cause suction on the vat which could overpower how it sticks to the build plate.
What type of object are you attempting to print? Is there a large area that gets printed to the build plate? If you just have a few supports, it may easily come off.
Are you using my slicer ini settings? I found they worked fairly well (though they are 3 years old?)
If my last post wasn't clear...different build plate (or new/recoated VAT), means you need to recalibrate the xaxis.
you mean recalibrate the zaxis no?
No dia quinta-feira, 8 de agosto de 2019, doobie42 notifications@github.com escreveu:
If my last post wasn't clear...different build plate (or new/recoated VAT), means you need to recalibrate the xaxis.
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Yes I did recalibrate everything yesterday.
Laser calib Zaxis calib to verify the zscalemm zaxis calib for first layer position below limit switch bed levelling.
It as quite late yesterday on my last attempt, Im trying again to see if i can do better this morning.
1-Yes resin hardened and the thickness is around 1.5 -1.8mm after 8 first layers depending on tests
2-The print is the maker rook so it has a big base at bottom. I'm writing at 30% size so it is 12.72 x12.72 x 21.3mm high
3-Yes you slic3r .ini dit make it for the only print that worked. I will try to redo a test with it unchanged, but with it after the only good print it did not work anymore. I will still give it a shot
So tried with the doobie ini files 3 and 50. Both did not work. However I always get same thickness around 1.5mm that stick on the pdms.
I will recheck my plate, maybe something happened and now it is higher in the middle. Near where i print. I will also try to print models in different positions of the plate to validate that.
So the build plate is maybee not perfect perfect, but is as good as it can be....
still: stick on 4 corners, no stick on center.... so maybe the vat is a problem? Did you have curved vat in your machines?
4 corners prints have about same thickness. Center one (on the pdms) is thicker
I will see how I can redo a new vat... or put back the old plate that was curved ( center lower than edges.... but maybe better for a vat that has the same problem...
I would expect the VAT to be even all around if it was made properly
Check the build plate is clean as well. I use IPA on everything between runs.
Hi doobie, I just got a pegasus touch a couple weeks ago that was not used anymore. I would be interested in running it with your open source firmware to try different settings for the resins. With stock machine resins keeps staying uncured.
Could you tell me if you have any update since the commit from February 2017?
I have the BBB (ethernet not wireless) running, but as meryan00 pointed compile laser calls for a z-axis.p that is not present. I am not very familiar with pasm, but if you could point me toward a solution I could do some work and push it to the repo if I can help.
Looking next lines, dbg_zaxis.c does not seem to exist either.
pasm -b zaxis.p ../bin/zaxis gcc -o ../bin/dbg_zaxis dbg_zaxis.c -lprussdrv -lm
I would love to make this thing work!