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dot-bob / Marlin-Duplicator-6

Marlin firmware for the Duplicator 6
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Question about the extruder fan #6

Open anoldguy opened 6 years ago

anoldguy commented 6 years ago

Description

Looking at Configuration_adv.h I see that the extruder fans are disabled, which makes the extruder fan stay on all the time. I also see in some of the Ultimaker code repos comments that suggest the fan pin for the extruders was removed, implying they switched to an always-on arrangement?

Ultimately, I'd love to get the fan off below 50C.

I've got a Monoprice Maker Ultimate, running off the MMU-2.0.x branch (c86943e01). I'm loathe to take my machine apart to trace these, and I'm hoping there's a clear answer. A "no" just means I'll stop hunting for it. :smile:

dot-bob commented 6 years ago

Unfortunately they just hardwired the extruder fan to 24V. There isn't much free I/O routed from the microprocessor on the mainboard to use with a relay to switch it on and off.

I am using the analog port for my BL_Touch and I really didn't want to solder directly to the micro so I used a small buck converter, dropped the voltage to 12V, and installed a 40x10 Noctua fan that is almost silent.

anoldguy commented 6 years ago
  1. Thanks for the quick, knowledgeable reply!
  2. Thank you for the work in bringing Marlin to the MMU/Wanhao D6!
  3. If I have further questions, is a GH issue the best way to ask them?
dot-bob commented 6 years ago

It is fine to use GH to ask questions. I am also on facebook as Robert Mendon.

anoldguy commented 6 years ago

I'm not on facebook (but I am on keybase.io), so I'll drop questions here.

I've got the all-metal hot-end upgrade from MicroSwiss, and I was looking at attempting to print polycarbonate. Some PC needs to be printed at/near 300C, so I know I'll have to bump MAXTEMP. Any experience with that?

dot-bob commented 6 years ago

Yeah just change the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP to something like 310C. I print polycarbonate on mine all the time. I printed my cooling fans in it as I got tired of them drooping all the time.

I have my max temp on the hotend set to 400C and the bed set to 150C but have yet to take it that high. I have taken the bed up to 140C so far. I did change the connector on the bed as the stock one was melting at 120C. If you go much above 300C you will not want to use a silicone sock.

In the next week or so I may try to print some small PEEK parts on it at about 380C.

anoldguy commented 6 years ago

Last question for a bit, but I cannot get the Bed PID Autotune M303 E-1 S80 C8 to ever complete. I can see it cycling to different power levels, but eventually (cycle 4 or 5?) it will drop power, but not enough to stop heating the bed, and it slowly raises without stop, and I have to eventually turn the entire printer off. I've run it with fewer cycles, C4 or C5, but it didn't give me useable numbers for the final PID constants; they were all 0's.

Any thoughts there?

dot-bob commented 6 years ago

Check your thermistor and see if it is still secure on the bottom of the bed. It may be an issue with mainline marlin. You may want to try manual adjustment (see manual section of PID Tuning).

I am using a glass sheet with PEI for my build plate for my D6. As a matter of fact most of my printers have a large gIass bed or MIC6 aluminum and have a lot of thermal mass so I usually disable PID control for the bed. If I enable PID control it actually causes more temperature fluctuation as my beds need full power to sustain a constant temperature.