Wiring diagram

[tlf30]

Hello, do you have an example diagram for the wiring, I'm very interested in getting this working.

[fgorina]

The RF300 has only 2 leads, one + and the pther ground but you must not connect directly +12 to the + lead. Put a resistor between so the tension in the RF300 may be modulated.

I pass this signal through a capacitor to remove the dc voltage and send the resulting signal to an operational Amplifier. probably a voltage follower is enough but a bit of amplification may be good. Will look at the schema but i was quite straighforward. Do you have access to an Oscilloscope?. Was invaluable.

[tlf30]

Thanks @fgorina, yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus. I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300. https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]
                                   |
[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again, Trevor

[fgorina]

Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.

​After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.

​

​It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.

​

​It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.

​

​I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.

I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.

https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-] | [ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again,

Trevor

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2405415483), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

[fgorina]

There is a README in the test folder, no Idea how it arrived there, that explains a bit more

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 6:09 PM, Paco Gorina @.***> wrote:

Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.

​After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.

​

​It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.

​

​It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.

​

​I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.

I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.

https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]

                                                                   |

[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again,

Trevor

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2405415483), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

[fgorina]

I found this file. Hope it works

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 6:12 PM, Paco Gorina @.***> wrote:

There is a README in the test folder, no Idea how it arrived there, that explains a bit more

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 6:09 PM, Paco Gorina @.***> wrote:

Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.

​After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.

​

​It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.

​

​It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.

​

​I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.

I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.

https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]

                                                                   |

[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again,

Trevor

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2405415483), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

[tlf30]

Thanks for the help. If you tried to attach a file I don't think it came through. I read the README in the test folder. I'm going to try to get this setup and working. What opamp did you use? Just wondering on a working setup for it. I'll order some of these optoisolators: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/H11L1M/284866

I assume you are using a ceramic cap? What are good starting values for the resistor and cap?

[fgorina]

1.- Input resistor about 200/300 ophms

​2.- Input Filter probably 10nf and 10k

​3.- Output filter 2 low pass filters, r 10k, c 10nf

​4.- OP LM358

​5.- Optocoupler yes the one you reference seems fine. Must accept the abour 2K frequency

​6.- Yes ceramic caps

​

​Hope the schema arrives!!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 10:54 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks for the help. If you tried to attach a file I don't think it came through. I read the README in the test folder. I'm going to try to get this setup and working. What opamp did you use? Just wondering on a working setup for it.

I'll order some of these optoisolators: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/H11L1M/284866

I assume you are using a ceramic cap? What are good starting values for the resistor and cap?

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2406020434), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU3MRUUM6PYGRSUXLVDZ23SQZAVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBWGAZDANBTGQ).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

[tlf30]

Thank you for the values. Unfortunately, I do not think attachments to email responses make it to the github issue. I think I understand the setup though, thank you for the help. Next time I am home I'll setup a test. Currently, I'll be traveling for the next few weeks (Seems like all I ever do anymore is travel...)

Thanks again for the help!

[fgorina]

I will try to put the schme in Github

​

​

On Oct 11 2024, at 7:44 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thank you for the values. Unfortunately, I do not think attachments to email responses make it to the github issue.

I think I understand the setup though, thank you for the help.

Next time I am home I'll setup a test. Currently, I'll be traveling for the next few weeks (Seems like all I ever do anymore is travel...)

Thanks again for the help!

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2407869937), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU5CPVPR5TG34FIDPQ3Z3AFBPAVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBXHA3DSOJTG4).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

[tlf30]

I see the diagram. I think I understand the circuit. I will take some time and play with it once I am done traveling. Again, I really appreciate the help.