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fgorina / RF300-Converter

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Wiring diagram #1

Open tlf30 opened 1 week ago

tlf30 commented 1 week ago

Hello, do you have an example diagram for the wiring, I'm very interested in getting this working.

fgorina commented 18 hours ago

The RF300 has only 2 leads, one + and the pther ground but you must not connect directly +12 to the + lead. Put a resistor between so the tension in the RF300 may be modulated.

I pass this signal through a capacitor to remove the dc voltage and send the resulting signal to an operational Amplifier. probably a voltage follower is enough but a bit of amplification may be good. Will look at the schema but i was quite straighforward. Do you have access to an Oscilloscope?. Was invaluable.

tlf30 commented 18 hours ago

Thanks @fgorina, yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus. I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300. https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf

image

image

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]
                                   |
[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again, Trevor

fgorina commented 17 hours ago

Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.

​After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.

​

​It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.

​

​It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.

​

​I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.

I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.

https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-] | [ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again,

Trevor

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2405415483), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

fgorina commented 17 hours ago

There is a README in the test folder, no Idea how it arrived there, that explains a bit more

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 6:09 PM, Paco Gorina @.***> wrote:

Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.

​After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.

​

​It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.

​

​It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.

​

​I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.

I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.

https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]

                                                                   |

[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again,

Trevor

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2405415483), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

fgorina commented 17 hours ago

I found this file. Hope it works

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 6:12 PM, Paco Gorina @.***> wrote:

There is a README in the test folder, no Idea how it arrived there, that explains a bit more

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 6:09 PM, Paco Gorina @.***> wrote:

Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.

​After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.

​

​It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.

​

​It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.

​

​I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!

​

On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn @.***> wrote:

Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.

I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.

https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/

lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)

image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)

I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?

Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.

Just so I understand, you connect like this:

[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]

[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]

                                                                   |

[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +

How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.

When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.

Thanks again,

Trevor

—

Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (https://github.com/fgorina/RF300-Converter/issues/1#issuecomment-2405415483), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).

You are receiving this because you were mentioned.

tlf30 commented 12 hours ago

Thanks for the help. If you tried to attach a file I don't think it came through. I read the README in the test folder. I'm going to try to get this setup and working. What opamp did you use? Just wondering on a working setup for it. I'll order some of these optoisolators: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/H11L1M/284866

I assume you are using a ceramic cap? What are good starting values for the resistor and cap?