posts/2022-09-30-flash_marlin_sidewinderx2/

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Flash latest Marlin firmware to Artillery Sidewinder X2 | freakyDude's Blog

Step by step guide to flash the my compiled Marlin firmware to the Artillery Sidewinder X2 printer

https://blog.freakydu.de/posts/2022-09-30-flash_marlin_sidewinderx2/

[TagAcheron]

Sorry for my English, I am new in 3D print Do you install this built (Marlin 2.1.2) on your sidewinder x2? My sidewinder x2 has never been update, do I have to do something first, is there a conflict with the TFT or something else (I don’t really know what I’m talking about sorry) I have read your ‘Tiny tutorial’, how to know if I have the right mainboard or screen TFT, or this firmware work with every sidewinder x2 ? if I have a problem can I ‘reverse’ this flash, do I need to backup something (firmware or config) ? I have seen other flashing, each time they change the interface of the sidewinder x2, this flash is compatible with the original sidewinder x2 touchscreen interface. Is this firmware have ‘Input Shaping’, m600, or the most important thing for me ‘Linear advance’ activate ? Do I have to compile something before or all is include in your github If you can answer me, thank you :)

[freakydude]

• yes you can install this firmware on your sidewinder x2. It does not matter which display you have.
• the display discussion is relevant if you also like to have an alternative firmware for the display.
• you can flash back and forward as often as you like
• m600, linear advance and input shaping are enabled (the uses configs can be found in the releases)
• no, it's compiled for the sidewinder. Just use the bin file

So have fun

[eRaz3r]

Hello and thank you first of all, for your work.

I have a few questions and hope you can answer them.

After flashing, I noticed that the spacing between the lines seems to have increased. This is noticeable in the first layer as well as in the rest of the print. I have no idea how to fix this. You can at least see the printing plate through the lines of the first layer. For the moment I think I fixed this as I revert to the stock firmware (the backup I make during the flash process).

How then can I tell if the flash was successful at all?

Thanks in advance for your time and best regards

[freakydude]

Hi,

a good advice is to see other tutorials out there for your problems. For example here. I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with the firmware itself.

But in general it sounds like a wrong adjustment of babysteps/z-offset. If you have spaces between the lines all over your print, a common problem is under extrusion.

So your keywords are under-extrusion, e-steps and babysteps/z-offset.

To get information about a Marlin version you have to send the g-code M115

With best regards

[eRaz3r]

Thank you very much for your fast replay. I will look after that and first of all read the actual settings from my firmware. Maybe I can use them on the new one.

[freakydude]

Very good idea! That will work.

[eRaz3r]

If you have a well configured printer with clean results it is the best thing to read the old values and overtake them after flashing a new firmware. In my case this was the solution for every problem and it wasn't neccesary to calibrate from scratch except the z-offset, bed leveling and the autoleveling.

[BounceG]

Thanks for your efforts on putting this together. I tried another trimmed down firmware by Mr. Magounet for this GD32F305 I have which is working properly but they made some tweaks to probing i'm not a huge fan of so wanted to give yours a try. Unfortunately I'm back to the bed/extruder not heating. Any ideas?

[BounceG]

Apologies, didn't meant to post that quite yet . . . so to specify, my issue with yours and previous non specific GD32F305 firmware is the bed/extruder heat cycle never starts.

[Clankcoll]

Hello M8,

i very thankfull that you have dropped a Version for the SWX2 with the "Autoleveling" enabled, Tryed a few that didn't had the Autoleveling enabled and i didnt want to look and compile it for just that additional feature.

But i read throug a few posts of yours and i believe you somwhere said that there is also an TFT Update available for the GD32F305.

And if not does that mean i can just flash this Version of Marlin and then use OctoPrint and forget about the LCD ?

Kind regards C

[eRaz3r]

@Clankcoll I am not mentioned but you could use octoprint also with the stock firmware very well as you can do it with this one.

[freakydude]

@Clankcoll

@eRaz3r is right. You can use it like to original firmware with your LCD as with your Octoprint installation. I did not remove anything from the configuration. But a added additional features, so that the all the features of the well known BigTreeTech Firmware for the LCD working too. And the good news are, that some smart guys (@gagipro @ciotto and others issue here) got this BigTreeTech LCD firmware working with the Sidewinder X2 (2022, 2023) working too. That means for the LCD Board with the GD32F305 chipset. I will do another post, got something even more fancy to work. ;-)

[eRaz3r]

@freakydude I am looking forward for your posting on the TFT firmware. It is the only thing missing to make my x2 perfect. And I also hope that it will solve the missing feature of the filament sensor when printing with octoprint Thank you very much for your work.

Will you tell us about the other fancy thing?

[freakydude]

@freakydude I am looking forward for your posting on the TFT firmware. It is the only thing missing to make my x2 perfect. And I also hope that it will solve the missing feature of the filament sensor when printing with octoprint Thank you very much for your work.

Will you tell us about the other fancy thing?

Could you tell me again, what's the detailed use case / issue with your filament sensor? And yes, an post is coming, but still testing by myself first

[eRaz3r]

Since the sensor is connected over the TFT mainboard octoprint didn't recognize when the filament is running out. I read your tutorial for klipper to rewire it and connect it to the printer mainboard. I hope that after flashing the TFT firmware the runout sensor will work with octoprint without rewiring it.

[freakydude]

The only way I know is that octoprint will recognize it, is by connecting it to the mainboard not to the TFT board. That's because Octoprint is connected to Marlin and Marlin is running on the artillery ruby mainboard. So. Yes, the filament runout will work afterwards - because it has nothing to do with the TFT and its firmware since you rewired it already.

[Clankcoll]

Well thanks for the Information!

i needed for Octoprint the Host commands active and also the Filament sensor so i would need to look for it how to rewire the Filament ronout senosr to the board and then i think adapt the Frmaware.

and with some firmware i tried the auto leveling dindt work so rn I am waiting for a new Nozzle since mine borke somehow ????

and then i am going to flash this one :)

[huettinger1985]

Hi, thanks for the good work! it helped me a lot.

I have a question. When I heat up the print bed after the update, the fan in the case starts to rattle. When I restore the original firmware, the fan runs normally. Is the fan somehow throttled?

[freakydude]

Hi, thanks for the good work! it helped me a lot.

I have a question. When I heat up the print bed after the update, the fan in the case starts to rattle. When I restore the original firmware, the fan runs normally. Is the fan somehow throttled?

I enabled the hardware pwm instead of the software pwm to control the fans. They run at the same speed but with faster power spikes. Because Artillery installed cheap fans some models begin to rattle. I will chance that back the next days. Till then, don't worry. This is not a defect

[pinay8273]

Hi freakydude,

i have some questions regarding your Firmware. I install v2.1.2.0.swx2-fd.04 on my Sidewinder X2.

-Is it correct, that i cannot print via the Display (USB, SD Card) anymore?

• I install this firmware because i want change filament while printing (M600), so i configure Filament Change->Marlin (M600 U) in Cura and print with Octoprint. The Pause printing working correct and it move in the correct position to change the filament, but how can i change the filament now? The change filament on the Printer Screen is not working anymore when im connected to Octoprint.

[freakydude]

Hi freakydude,

i have some questions regarding your Firmware. I install v2.1.2.0.swx2-fd.04 on my Sidewinder X2.

-Is it correct, that i cannot print via the Display (USB, SD Card) anymore?

* I install this firmware because i want change filament while printing (M600), so i configure Filament Change->Marlin (M600 U) in Cura and print with Octoprint. The Pause printing working correct and it move in the correct position to change the filament, but how can i change the filament now? The change filament on the Printer Screen is not working anymore when im connected to Octoprint.

Did it work with v2.1.2.0.swx2-fd.03? What TFT controller and Firmware you are using?

Should work, if it was ok with the v2.1.2.0.swx2-fd.03

[pinay8273]

i just make a test with fd.02 and fd.03 with same results. I just get the printer this week, When i start the printer its V3.0.4 and in Settings->About Version 3.1.3. To be sure what controller, I have to open the case?

[freakydude]

Ah OK. Now I got it, nono. Don't open it. Officially you will loose your warranty.

Does not sound like a firmware problem.

You have to understand if you print with Octo - the display is passiv. Pressing buttons is just a command to octoprint. Only if you print from sd/USB and start the print on the display it is the active controller.

What you can do is to print directly from SD or USB stick in your printer. To test if pause works. Even then pause must be configured in slicer + display firmware +Mainboard firmware together.

If you solved this, I would search the problem in octoprint. There are many reasons for missconfiguration.

[pinay8273]

Ok thank you, then i will look into Octoprint settings.

"What you can do is to print directly from SD or USB stick in your printer." since I install the custom Firmware, printing directly is not working anymore. I can heat up or change filament when the printer is not connected via USB, but when i want to print with SD/USB the printer stuck at 0% and do nothing.

[freakydude]

Maybe there is something wrong with your start-g-code in the slicer ... have a look through various tutorials around the web. I am sure that it works with BigTreeTech TouchScreenSoftware + the 2.1.2-fd4 version for example. Good luck!

[Clankcoll]

hello me again quick question with

FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR activated

did you mean you wrote the Lines so that we can plug the filament sensor in the Z endstop and use that one to get it back to octoprint like here described

-> https://www.reddit.com/r/Artillery3D/comments/yo82nh/guide_to_get_stock_filament_runout_sensor_to_work/

or did you meant something else with it

[freakydude]

Yes if you rewire it, it should work.

[cparravicini99]

Hello!

first: Thank you for your work! second: i can't enable linear advance, from the source is activated but the m900 command isn't recognise. do you now why?

Thanks!

[Clankcoll]

Hello soo i tried rewiering the cable from the Filament runout sensor to the Z Endstop which is by Default there and i am sorry to tell but it is not working as inteded or as described in the Reddit post i mentioned.

[freakydude]

Did you query the sensor? With/without filament? Was it recognized?

[253Bigfoot]

Installed the newest Firmware but after, Hotend would stop trying to preheat once i started a print

[Clankcoll]

Do i need a Plugin in Octoprint for the Querying ?

If u mean the LED light it lights up when there is a Filament and goes out if there is none

[electricar]

Hi, can I follow your instructions for my X2 with the old TFT from BTTor will some functions be missing? Currently I am on this version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186707 Thank you in advance.

[freakydude]

Hi, can I follow your instructions for my X2 with the old TFT from BTTor will some functions be missing? Currently I am on this version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186707 Thank you in advance.

Should work as before. Not more, not less. Just try it, if not flash back you old firmware. Be aware, while flashing, all eeprom settings are reset. So save them and restore them afterwards

[eRaz3r]

Hi, I finally flashed my TFT (Marlin I flashed before) and now I want to get the filename and the progress on the display while printing. I send the files with cura and octoprint to the sidewinder. Any idea why the filename isnt't shown?

[freakydude]

Hi, I finally flashed my TFT (Marlin I flashed before) and now I want to get the filename and the progress on the display while printing. I send the files with cura and octoprint to the sidewinder. Any idea why the filename isnt't shown?

Sorry, don't know the reason. I would search in Octoprint/Slicer configurations.

[MarioL77]

Hi could you share the latest version of *.bin with settings for all metal hotend?

[MarioL77]

I installed your file version: v2.1.2.1.swx2-fd.01 but you can set the hotend max temperature there to 260 celcius

[freakydude]

Yes, it's compiled with safety values for the stock (not all metal, ptfe) extruder Version.

[MarioL77]

Hi. Could you please add a *.bin file with the features enabled as in your latest file plus the hotend temperature for the all metal version? I have no experience with compiling the firmware yet and I'm afraid that I might mess something up. :-)

[ckarantanis]

Hi, thanks for the good work! it helped me a lot. I have a question. When I heat up the print bed after the update, the fan in the case starts to rattle. When I restore the original firmware, the fan runs normally. Is the fan somehow throttled?

I enabled the hardware pwm instead of the software pwm to control the fans. They run at the same speed but with faster power spikes. Because Artillery installed cheap fans some models begin to rattle. I will chance that back the next days. Till then, don't worry. This is not a defect

Hello, and thank you for your great work! Concerning this, is it possible to make a new firmware that stills uses the software to control the fans? I upgraded to a new 5015 fan, and there is always a very loud electronic noise when not working @100% the fans. I am trying to understand if there is a way to implement this using your firmware, but I have a lot of reading to do before I fully understand...

[freakydude]

Thank you.

In theory it is possible. But at the moment I would recommend to compile the firmware yourself for further customizations.

The reason is, that there are so many options I can't provide all combinations nor can I test them. And in meanwhile I use klipper firmware as an alternative for my model.

So I decided to compile only one variant which fits stock. Derived from the stock configuration provided by artillery.

That's all. Sorry.

[ckarantanis]

Thank you.

In theory it is possible. But at the moment I would recommend to compile the firmware yourself for further customizations.

The reason is, that there are so many options I can't provide all combinations nor can I test them. And in meanwhile I use klipper firmware as an alternative for my model.

So I decided to compile only one variant which fits stock. Derived from the stock configuration provided by artillery.

That's all. Sorry.

Oh, I am terribly sorry if I offended you in any way. I had understood that it was a change that you had in your "to do" list, something like an alternative variation. My bad! Thanks again for your great help, keep up the good work.

[freakydude]

Thank you. In theory it is possible. But at the moment I would recommend to compile the firmware yourself for further customizations. The reason is, that there are so many options I can't provide all combinations nor can I test them. And in meanwhile I use klipper firmware as an alternative for my model. So I decided to compile only one variant which fits stock. Derived from the stock configuration provided by artillery. That's all. Sorry.

Oh, I am terribly sorry if I offended you in any way. I had understood that it was a change that you had in your "to do" list, something like an alternative variation. My bad! Thanks again for your great help, keep up the good work.

You didn't offended me. Just like to explain the background.

Greetings

[MarioL77]

Hi I updated my sidewinder x2 Marlin to the latest version of yours, at the same time I changed the slicer from CURA to Prusaslicer and I have a small problem: Prior to these changes, the printhead would rise a few millimeters after printing and move to X0 and Y300 With manual emergency interruption of printing, the head was raised by a few millimeters and moved on the X axis to X0. After changing Marlin and slicer the printer after printing is raised by several tens of millimeters on Z and no longer extends the table while in the event of an emergency interruption of printing, the head is raised to Z by a few millimeters, after a while it returns to X0 Y0, lowering the head at the same time on the Z axis, causing a collision with the interrupted printed element

Where are the commands for what the printer should do after an emergency printing interruption - in Marlin or maybe in the slicer?

[freakydude]

Emergency Stop "M112" is just a emergency stop. Means, everything is powered off instantly. There is no more move ... the machine has to be reset afterwards. Marlin M112

So what you describe here sounds more like a pause print or something. Would you describe as, what you are doing to stop/cancel/pause the print?

[MarioL77]

So when I press pause, the hotend stops printing and slightly hovers above the printout - it works OK. If I want to permanently stop the printout for some reason, I pressed the stop button and then the head was raised by a certain distance and, if I remember correctly, it switched to X0 without changing Y and remaining on Z. after updating to the latest stable Marlin and changing the slicer to prusaslicer at the same time: currently, when I finish printing through stop (not pause), then the head rises for a moment on the Z axis to switch to X0 and Y0 after a while, lowering to Z at the same time. I don't know where it will stop - I've always been able to disconnect the power to the printer but unfortunately, the head when moving to X0 and Y0 and some Z caused collisions with the partially printed printout. And I don't know if the reason is Marlin or maybe the new slicer.

[freakydude]

For my klipper setup I got these days a similar result. I was able to debug it there.

by pressing the stop print button on the touch screen, it sends a M108 to the firmware.

if the there is no answer from printer (because busy with other commands), the screen firmware repeats the command infinity. And these M108 commands are queued and may result in your problem...

Do not have a solution right now. Maybe someone has an idea?

[djscholas]

Hi @freakydude,

I forgot to wrote down Z value and extruder value for basic setup… how can i set them now properly ? Could you Help me with that ?

[freakydude]

@djscholas

It's a individual printer specific value anyway.

Just search for things like "z-offset, marlin, babysteps, calibration". For example, I found a very short list of instructions here: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9820/specifying-z-offset-in-marlin-firmware

Don't forget to save to eeprom at the end.

Regards.