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joric / jorne

Jorne is an extended Corne keyboard with extra keys for brackets and international layouts
https://github.com/joric/jorne/wiki
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cherry hot swappable acrylic tented design query #11

Closed browntownington closed 3 years ago

browntownington commented 3 years ago

I just wanted to clear up some ambiguity before i start ordering wrong things.

https://github.com/joric/jorne/wiki#switches "* Use 1.5mm plate for the hotswap version, switches won't snap onto plates thicker than 1.5 mm!" I assume you are referring to the cherry mx switches as the point above mentioned Kailh LP can have 2mm max plate?

For someone that wants to do cherry hot swappable acrylic tented design - would they have to deploy 1.5m plate on top of 3mm acrylic similar to foostans's tenting guide?

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Also I think there might be a typo here "6 mm standoffs are for 3mm plates, 6 (8?) mm are for 1.5mm plates, 10mm for OLEDs."

joric commented 3 years ago

It specifically says that 1.5 mm acrylic is a no-no, I broke too many, I can't in good conscience advice people to order that. Use a single metal or FR4 plate for 1.5 mm. You can make tented metal 1.5 mm the same way as 3 mm no need to use two plates.

6 mm standoffs are for 3mm plates, 6 (8?) mm are for 1.5mm plates, 10mm for OLEDs

fixed typo

browntownington commented 3 years ago

It specifically says that 1.5 mm acrylic is a no-no, I broke too many, I can't in good conscience advice people to order that. Use a single metal or FR4 plate for 1.5 mm. You can make tented metal 1.5 mm the same way as 3 mm no need to use two plates.

Thank you yes that was clear. I just wasn't sure if it was directly in reference to cherry switches and it was.

I'll look into the metal option! Thanks again.

browntownington commented 3 years ago

I keep seeing photos of people builds that use an acrylic top plate and hot swappable switch sockets. I'm guessing the switch must still sit in the the plate and make a connection to the socket just without it being fully snaped in.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crkbd/comments/l3k18p/assembly_crkbd/

joric commented 3 years ago

I did thick acrylic. swtiches just jump out even if you cut 13.9 holes instead of 14.0. there's absolutely nothing to snap onto and acrylic is pretty slippery so you get yourself a build that doesn't hold switches AT ALL.

browntownington commented 3 years ago

I might make the cut holes a few mm's bigger and trial engraving out a ridge/lip for the switch to snap in. If that fails i might see if i can make a small insert (with 3d printer or some stronger material) which glues in to the slightly wider cut hole. If I come up with a good solution I'll share it back here.

browntownington commented 3 years ago

I might have a go at CNC milling a notch in the acrylic. Otherwise I might manually do it will a drill press and a sander peace. Excited to see how it might come out.

The GamaKay looks amazing. Looks like they CNC.

Might mod the design to be a bit wider so the PCB can be encased by acrylic too.

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