How to control the fan with a pin

[Pjeran]

First - great design - love how it integrates into the original SB design. Not an issue, but an addition to the great design.

At first I just pulled the 5V for the fan off the I2C connector but this left the fan on all the time. Having a fan that runs all the time when the printer is powered on regardless of if it is printing was just bothering me. I put together a little cable with an 2N7000 MOSFET that allows me to turn the fan on and off using the PB3 pin on the EBB36. I used a 330 ohm resistor on the gate because it is what I had lying around, but any low resistance will work to keep the gate current inrush low when the MOSFET turns on.

I just turn it on when the hot end turns on:

[heater_fan EBB36]

Cools the EBB36 and extruder driver

pin: can0:AUX0 max_power: 1.0 kick_start_time: 0.5 heater: extruder heater_temp: 50.0

Just in case anyone wants to control the fan.

[danielfmo]

I like this, I'm doing it but... how can one fit the DuPont connectors into the EBB? the lid does not close.

[Pjeran]

Had to give a bit of a downward bend to the Dupont pins. Just had to go slow.

[ChaosBlades]

Or you could just buy a 24v 2010 fan and crimp both the hotend and 2010 fans into the same connector like I did. Looks like only one manufacturer makes a 24v 2010 fan. I see them on Aliexpress and eBay. Below is a link the the exact one I bought. Ended up getting 3 just in case I needed a replacement and could not find another. It seems to be holding up after over a hundred hours worth of printing I just would not have your hotend fan run below anything under 100% as none of these 2010 fan push much air and would be virtually useless at less than 100%.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175500018119?var=474821533001

Here is a picture of it in case the above link dies and you need to hunt around for this exact fan.

[ChaosBlades]

Disregard my last comment. The 24v 2010 fans do not last I am already on my 3rd.

I have opted to go fanless. With 50C chamber temps and 9x9x12mm heatsinks (same one as included in EBB36 kit) on both the stepper driver and MCU the MCU levels out at or just below 80C with a spec at 110C as acceptable temperatures. So this is perfectly safe as far as the spec is concerned. If you are running a chamber temp of around 70C+ then you are probably going to want to run a fan. Most people prefer to not use CAN BUS at these chamber temps anyways. Run_Current on extruder is 0.7 and I have not had any skipped steps.

I have included a modded No Fan Cable Door and Rear Door. I have....

• Reduced printed overhang angles. The steepest angle is now 55 degrees. So you don't need as much cooling for a nice print
• Reinforced the heatset hole on the Cable Door
• Improved gap between Rear Door and Cable Door at the top
• Changed the hole on the Read Door to accept the same M3x6mm Button Head as the Cable Door uses so you don't need two hex keys to open the doors. The bolt head is still recessed.
• Enlarged the Voron Logo on the Rear Door as large as possible to allow more air flow.
• Filled the Voron Logo on the Rear Door with hex mesh to prevent cables from popping out.
• Removed a bunch of weird geometry that didn't need to exist.

Attached is both step and 3mf files. Fanless Doors.zip

[kejar31]

ATP I run fan-less too but just leave the back door off for that... Have not had an issue and have been doing it for a while..

[kejar31]

Also while probably not electrically sound ( I am no electrical eng) I have just tied the ground in with the 24volt line on my hotend cooling while using a 5v header off another location on the board.. this worked fine for me without issue