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lshachar / Arduino_Fanatec_Wheel

A do-it-yourself steering wheel to Fanatec's wheel base
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Which one is the correct schematic? Easy to understand or simplified? #20

Closed Shane87F3Ng closed 2 years ago

Shane87F3Ng commented 2 years ago

Hi Ishachar,

is it possible, that the schematic shown at

https://github.com/lshachar/Arduino_Fanatec_Wheel/blob/master/schamtics%20arduino%20nano-level%20shifter-fanatec%20round%20plug.png

is not correct (anymore?)?

Because you connect the 3V3 from the Base to the 3V3 connector on the arduino, but in your detailed schematics, this connection line is not shown. So which one is right? :)

Cheers Shane

lshachar commented 2 years ago

Hi Shane, There is no need to connect the 3v3 on the arduino nano to the low level side of the logic level shifter. Thanks for noticing that. (It was a different user who've made that schematic in the first place!)

(edit: the link that is in the Original Post here does not show the aforementioned bug anymore)

This is the correct schematic

Shane87F3Ng commented 2 years ago

Thanks for your quick response Ishachar :)

A further question, have you ever tried to power your nano board with the 3v3 line from the base to the 5v pin of the arduino? Because at that pin, there is no voltage regulator followed, so digital pin output is also at 3v3. Most of the boards (CH430 clone versions) are actually capable of running at 16mHz at 3v3, as i am using it like that on my Thrustmaster wheel. The positive effect on that is, that no logic level shifter is needed and getting rid of all the noises cause by it.

But i am not sure if the 5v line of the base needs to be used in order to get the wheel recognized

Greets Shane

lshachar commented 2 years ago

I've never tried running it like that, (and I suppose that the processor isn't ment to run at 16mhz at 3.3v, even if it can), but anyways - once you connected the nano to usb, the outputs will go up from 3.3v to 5v. then you're feeding 5v to 3.3v inputs on the fanatec wheelbase side.

Shane87F3Ng commented 2 years ago

OK, yeah tomorrow i will have time to solder everything together. Does anybody know, If i need all 13 Pins or can i just go with 8, that are actually used?

lshachar commented 2 years ago

...What would you solder all the unused pins to? Obviously you don't need to solder them.

On Wed, Mar 30, 2022, 20:46 Shane87F3Ng @.***> wrote:

OK, yeah tomorrow i will have time to solder everything together. Does anybody know, If i need all 13 Pins or can i just go with 8, that are actually used?

— Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/lshachar/Arduino_Fanatec_Wheel/issues/20#issuecomment-1083435300, or unsubscribe https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/ADJOFTPIDOU74G2LCNDDXRLVCSHPJANCNFSM5QIVJULA . You are receiving this because you commented.Message ID: @.***>

Shane87F3Ng commented 2 years ago

I mean not to solder them, but are they necessary in a way, that the base can detect the pin contact. otherwise i would just go with 8 Pins, you know what i mean?

ProjectCoops commented 2 years ago

Hi Ishachar great project, i have and original pcb csl elite p1, i would like to cut the pcb board down for a drift wheel and require no buttons,

  1. MISO 2 .MOSI
  2. GND
  3. 5v
  4. GND
  5. SCK
  6. 3v3
  7. CS Could you please tell me which of the first 8 pins are necessary for the wheel to be detected for ffb, i can calibrate via fanatec properties. Thankyou.
lshachar commented 2 years ago

All of them.