Closed mcer12 closed 6 years ago
One option will be to decommission the integrated wifi antenna and replace it with something like this
Yes I thought of this but I have one of the lights literally few centimeters from wifi AP and second one across the room with little to no difference, so I doubt it's antenna related. I dont own an oscilloscope but I think this might be due to insuficient ripple filtering. I'm trying it with powerbank and so far no lights went "unavailable".
Place a capacitor near the esp on power circuit. Very likely the current ones are not that good.
@mcer12 I have soldered two capacitors, one electrolytical capacitor (beefy) and a small ceramic cap and this makes a big difference!! Definitely worth a try, I solder caps things standard to all my esp's...
Thanks for replies guys. The ESP is powered by mini360 buck converter to drop 12v to 5v which is directly connected to VIN. I have already got an addituonal 22uF electrolytic cap on the output of the buck converter but it doesnt seem to make any difference. @betonishard Do you have this particular board I posted or different? Can you post your values of capacitors you use?
@mcer12, There is a 5v line which is being converted with an ams117 to a 3v3 voltage. I have used an esp-01 (the black version) as well as a wemos d1. The D1 is a multisensor (with temp, hum, motion, light level, and 166 ws2812B leds) and I use the esp-01's as a standalone dedicated for a ws2812B ledstrip
I got a 1000uF 25v electrolytic cap in parallel with a 104 ceramic cap
Here is the link of the big one. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-Aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor-25V-1000UF-1000-uf-25v-size-10-17mm-25-V-1000-UF/32725883192.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.SjTDjJ
ceramic cap, i soldered it just like this, as close as possible to the 3v3 and ground. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2dqlqah&s=8#.WvCemy-B3OQ
Good luck...!
@betonishard Thanks but this is not really relevant since its interirely different board.. I will try the ceramic cap though and tinker with it little little more.
BTW one instable esp powered by a bad PS in my home cause connectivity issues with other esp's from proximity. Ceramic caps are a better solution, i saw all cpu's have ceramic caps near them for filtering.
@mariusmotea Hmm good thought but wouldnt that affect the other ESPs too? I have one d1 mini right between these two nodeMCUs and it's working flawlessly.
EDIT: I will try to do some makeshift aluminium shielding for it and report back. Since other ESPs all have shields, this might be the reason.
For sure they can create unwanted noise in 2.4 spectrum. I had hard time to fix my ceiling light in the bedroom. In the end i find out that other esp in the room was the problem. It still cause me issues once 2-3 months, but now i know what to reset when ceiling light stop responding
I'm closing this, these boards are just shitty. I urge everyone not to use those.
Hi this is more related to NodeMCU itself than diyHue but I wonder if anyone else experienced this problem. I bought some supercheap NodeMCU with bare ESP chip soldered to the board. Board looks like this http://robotstore.cz/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/nodemcu-v3-lua-cp2102-wifi-vyvojova-deska-esp8266-8mb-arduino-1.jpg but it has very poor signal. Has anyone found a way to make it better? It works most of the time but sometimes lights change state to "unavailable". Also the light changes take longer to take effect. Maybe it's just a design flaw so take this as a warning not to buy these. Other NodeMCUs and D1 minis (with ESP-12 module) work great.