Create 3D model of Dimmer Switch and Motion Sensor for 3D printing

[mariusmotea]

Will be nice if somebody can create 3D projects to have these devices that will look like original ones. Hue Dimmer switch need to be like original dimmer switch (i guess ESP-12S + 1x coil battery will fit the case) Hue Motions Sensor size need to accept one HC-SR501 sensor, two AAA batteries and one ESP-12S device. Soon i will push a new update to Hue Motion project that will fix rf interferences with PIR.

[ATSTWar]

If you are not in a rush I can model them up within a month or so.

[mariusmotea]

This will be great. Thanks.

[ghost]

I have started modelling the Dimmer Switch. I have created a GitLab repo here where I will upload the files as I complete them. I have taken the controller apart in order to model every piece individually. The models are exact (or as close as I could get) copies of the plastic parts of the controller, so will need to be modified to be 3D printed and support a different circuit.

[ghost]

Ok the models are all done. You can get them here. They seem to be pretty close to the original. Some measurements had to be done a bit by eye because it was physically impossible to measure some parts. I don't have a 3D printer so I cant promise all the parts fit and work correctly but my assembly in Fusion 360 seemed to iron out all the obvious errors. The next step is to get someone to 3D print these to see how accurate they are. I have yet to model the PCB but I will do that shortly so it can be used as a reference when creating a replacement PCB. I'm working on that also

[mariusmotea]

Is looking very good. I have one question, what is the battery size, because esp power consumption is bigger than zigbee switches? My recommendation is to use CR2450 that is much powerfull, like the one in Xiaomi sensors.

[ghost]

The Hue Dimmer Switch also uses a CR2450 so the current model supports that.

[mariusmotea]

Ok, i will search for an 3d print studio and very likely i will come with some new updates to this sketch and schematic.

Marius.

[mariusmotea]

I receive an message from 3d print studio that is possible to be printed with defects because this project is not optimized for 3d printing. I don't know exactly what this means but i believe the issue is that the print head has a lack of creating bridges over the holes.

[ghost]

Yeh that doesn't surprise me. I designed it as an exact copy of the original rather than a copy that could be 3d printed as I don't have a 3d printer or any experience with one I wasn't sure how to optimise the designs. Part of the problem may be the clip system used to secure the two halves. It might be a good idea to start designs for the PCB then the case and mounting can be redesigned in tandem a bit with the PCB.

On Sat, 16 Jun 2018, 10:11 am Motea Marius, notifications@github.com wrote:

I receive an message from 3d print studio that is possible to be printed with defects because this project is not optimized for 3d printing. I don't know exactly what this means but I believe the issue is that the print head has a lack of creating bridges over the holes.

— You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/mariusmotea/diyHue/issues/36#issuecomment-397799535, or mute the thread https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/APkprKJGdnP6TwFMU5yFwX8guIM1f8qSks5t9MumgaJpZM4Otkez .

[basktrading]

I came upon this and thought I'd optimize the Fusion 360 models for printing using Netfabb. The top case has two button (?) pieces that were disconnected from the remainder, so I processed those as separate parts.

Some parts will need supports generated prior to printing, which is usually done by whatever slicing program is used. Looks like they should print fine though.

Here's a google drive folder link with the cleaned up and oriented STL files

[ghost]

Thanks for sorting out my models. As I don't have a 3d printer, I lack the understanding on creating models to print. I'll take a look at what you have done later. There are 4 buttons on the top. On, off, brightness up and brightness down. The brightness buttons use the same models.

[ghost]

Ah, I have seen what has happened. The top case, I think i made those two "buttons" you mentioned as separate bodies from the main body as it was easier. However, the whole thing should be printed as one piece. Are you able to fix this @basktrading ?

[basktrading]

I think so, I've been playing with Fusion 360 a lot lately. I edited the sketch and extrusions to make the first two button looking things the same as the rest, joined the bodies, remeshed, cleaned up in Netfabb, and uploaded the revised STLs as "Top Case - Fixed" and "ALL" files in the google drive folder link above. Btw, thanks for the F360 designs!

[basktrading]

I was thinking about this again - depending on the 3d printing technology used, there are a couple potential obstacles with these parts. Typical 3d printers like mine use an FDM process, where filament is extruded in thin layers, and consequently part strength sometimes relies heavily on the orientation of the print. This is of extra concern when there are tabs involved, as the layers of filament are going to resist delamination and fracture much more so when forces are applied perpendicular to the sides of the layers. Using an FDM type printer, it would be possible to orient the parts in a way to maximize tab strength, put the chance of print failure would go up due to the additional support required and other factors like a smaller, less stable footprint sitting on the print bed, etc. (well, at least with my setup)

A second option would be an FDM 3d printer with a dual extruder and water soluble support filament. The part itself would be printed out of the 1st material, and the water soluble material would be used only for the support structures (you can't print stuff in midair, so most features over about a 60 degree angle need support material printed between the feature and the print bed). This would take a lot of headache out of removing supports after the prints are done, as they can just be dissolved in water.

These parts would probably hold up a lot better over time using a different technology called SLS which uses a laser to fuse thin layers of printing material and is not subject to the same risk of delamination. It is also more precise in general, and there is less shrinkage to deal with. SLS nylon would probably be a good choice.

Lastly, I didn't check any of the tolerances but all FDM printing materials are going to experience varying shrinkage and precision to one degree or another depending on type of material. So you will want to account for this in the design, especially the snaps. I print a lot in a material called PETG which is a bit stronger than ABS and has minimal shrinkage. For a "tight" fit I usually leave .2 to .3mm of space on both sides of a fitting - for a "loose" fit or a joint, I'll use anywhere between .3 to .5mm of space on both sides. Even though all the dimensions of the model experience about the same shrinkage, I find that leaving some room will usually result in a better result without a lot of additional post-processing (filing, sanding, and general making everything fit right).

I don't mind printing up a test model if the tolerances seem about right.

[jamesarm97]

I do a lot of 3d design and 3d printing (I have about 9 printers) and can give some help or feedback.

[mariusmotea]

This will be great. I'm waiting for this for a very long time.

[basktrading]

@jamesarm97 thanks for the help! Here are links to the original designs by @cheesemarathon
and the cleaned up STLs of the current version, including a fixed version of the Top Case in Fusion 360.

Besides the fixed Top Case, the STLs are all generated from the original designs in Fusion 360. I only combined the bodies and generated meshes in F360, then exported the OBJs, ran them all through Netfabb and exported the STLs.

[mariusmotea]

Anybody management to print the hue switch?

[ghost]

I'm closing this as further conversation is occurring on Slack