project gallery

[martin2250]

Hi everyone, I love seeing what you make with OpenCNCPilot, feel free to post pictures of the PCBs (or other projects) you make here.

[martin2250]

first attempt at a double sided PCB, 0.4mm traces, SOT-23 and 1206:

[deHarro]

Adapter board for a display (obvious from SIEMENS LOGO!), sold at Pollin. It carries an Arduino Nano V3 and an I2C adapter on one side and the display on the other:

This was the first approach, the conneection between board and display is made of wires. Display and board are aligned when mounted, of course. My second approach uses matching connectors on board and display, so both parts are located closer together. The housing is made from POM and holds both parts together. No pictures yet, sorry.

[deHarro]

Another project I made I already posted here, but to keep the pictures together, here again... It's the controller board for an electrically boosted city scooter (in german). The design is two sided.

The structures for the MPU9250 are 0.2 .. 0.3 mm

Not possible without height mapping -> OpenCNCPilot! :)

[S2000Stefan]

Time for a Change, no PCB but something OpenCNCPilot can also very good. ;) height mapping rules. :+1:
Stefan

[canbaytok]

I'll just leave my Imgur Album here, since I dont want to spam this thread with 10 pictures of my crappy PCBs:

Look here!

All in all I gotta say that most of my circuit are just impossible to route, without the height adjustment of the CNC and OpenCNCPilot does a pretty good job with that.

Kind of off topic, but did any of you guys think about protection of the bare copper of your PCBs. My PCBs are getting very dirty, as time passes and I would love to get some input as to how I would protect the from corrosion etc.

[bensonsbc]

Hi @sirsenor !

I did not try it yet, but I have read about using a spray coat (does not know the English name, in Portuguese it's called "Verniz", it's used to coat wood, or even paint to make it gloss and help to protect, I will post a picture later of how it looks like), the people said it would not interfere on the solder process (I am a bit skeptic about this, but need to try it out) and will protect against oxidation.

I had seen a process that I thought is very nice, look at the video below, but I will need to make a spring loaded tool holder to try it. Don't know if this is an easy job... I think to get the spring pressure right will not be easy.

Look here: https://youtu.be/7EctuSTL7-w?t=180

best regards

[Borntrippy]

Thanks m8 will send some beer money very soon via donate, really appreciative of all the hard work you have put in :)

[Borntrippy]

i have used circuit board varnish before when i used to chemical etch my boards... it does a great job and can be resoldered after the varnish is on.. ie to replace a part... it acts as an insulator as well i think from memory - should be able to buy it at thew local electronics store

[trietdao95]

can anyone upload the layout or gcode file to test on my machine?

[martin2250]

My latest project, a three-phase power monitor built around the ATM90E36A:

As of yesterday it is mounted in a DIN rail case inside our main fuse box and is providing data to my RPi/InfluxDB/Grafana setup.

@trietdao95 : here are the design files for the bottom right board in the first picture gerber_esp-carrier.zip

[canbaytok]

I needed an excuse to test out my solder mask technique and cutting the pcb out with my new bits so I designed this little breakout board for an LM324N. I hate it to connect 5 jumper wires to build up a quick little NIamp. The board will be a new home for an LM324N and four potentiometers to adjust the gain.

I tried to use every step I can to "manufacture" this pcb.

1. Isolation of traces
2. Applying and curing soldermask
3. routing soldermask off the pads
4. drilling the holes
5. cutting the pcb out

I will most likely never cut my pcbs out again ( I think fiber glass dust is not really good for your lungs :D )

You can also clearly see that the left pads are nice and clean and the right pads have scratch marks on them. Thats because I noticed halfway trough the process that my spindle is not mounted firmly and had a little of a wiggle. Well at least my copper is safe and wont degrade as much.

[bensonsbc]

Hi!

How do you remove the ink from the pads?

See you!

Alexandre Benson Smith Desenvolvimento THOR Software www.thorsoftware.com.br (11) 9 9641-1808 (11) 4992-3496 (Enviado pelo celular)

Em qua, 18 de jul de 2018 15:44, sirsenor notifications@github.com escreveu:

I needed an excuse to test out my solder mask technique and cutting the pcb out with my new bits so I designed this little breakout board for an LM324N. I hate it to connect 5 jumper wires to build up a quick little NIamp. The board will be a new home for an LM324N and four potentiometers to adjust the gain. [image: image] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/25607877/42900852-3f7c4f74-8aca-11e8-9303-9d2d2bdf30ae.png

I tried to use every step I can to "manufacture" this pcb.

1. Isolation of traces
2. Applying and curing soldermask
3. routing soldermask off the pads
4. drilling the holes
5. cutting the pcb out

I will most likely never cut my pcbs out again ( I think fiber glass dust is not really good for your lungs :D )

You can also clearly see that the left pads are nice and clean and the right pads have scratch marks on them. Thats because I noticed halfway trough the process that my spindle is not mounted firmly and had a little of a wiggle. Well at least my copper is safe and wont degrade as much.

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[canbaytok]

I use the soldermask gerber file I get from easyeda in combination with FlatCAM to generate a gcode file that routes the pads geometry at Zheight of 0mm. The trick is that the spindle speed should be set as slow as possible so the copper underneath it doesnt get damaged when the bit passes over it. The results look pretty darn good, even if it means that the process of creating a pcb takes longer.

[martin2250]

It's a bit rough around the edges but damn, this is the most beautiful milled PCB that I've seen yet!

Why worry about FR-4 dust? Just drip some alcohol on the board before you start isolation milling, this will bind all the dust. Cutting out should be quick enough that you can vacuum up the dust as the machine is working.

[bensonsbc]

Very Nice tip!!!!

I saw a cnc milling machine that uses a spring loaded bit to mill the ink...

Take a look at it, you will not regret the time spent. https://youtu.be/7EctuSTL7-w

I will give it a try....

Thanks for the tip!

Alexandre Benson Smith Desenvolvimento THOR Software www.thorsoftware.com.br (11) 9 9641-1808 (11) 4992-3496 (Enviado pelo celular)

Em qua, 18 de jul de 2018 16:19, sirsenor notifications@github.com escreveu:

I use the soldermask gerber file I get from easyeda in combination with FlatCAM to generate a gcode file that routes the pads geometry at Zheight of 0mm. The trick is that the spindle speed should be set as slow as possible so the copper underneath it dont get damaged when the bit passes over it. The results look pretty darn good, even if it means that the process of creating a pcb takes longer.

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[canbaytok]

@bensonsbc this is the video I was inspired from, but I knew that the time spent on finding a good spring that fits and gets the job done was not worth it so I experimented to find another way.

@martin2250 I also thought about using some plain old vegetable oil, but I didnt want my bits to get greasy. For now I will stick to not cutting out my pcbs and just use my clippers (as long as the pcb is rectangular).

[deHarro]

Hi all! Since I always sit by and watch the milling process and don't want to get my working area spilled with dust, I use a vacuum cleaner with modded nozzle to suck away any dust and pieces the tool produces. I take it as some sort of meditation - just sitting there and following the tool with my nozzle for hours... ;-) Needless to say, I wear noise protection equipment when attending my CNC router.

The modding is straight forward: A short piece of PUR foam heat insulation from HVAC (heating, ventilating & air condition) cladded with duct tape and pressed into the standard vacuum cleaner hose. Inserted into this PUR part is a not so short (about 150 mm) piece of 16 mm plastic hose (electrical installation hose). The end of this plastic hose I flattened by applying heat.

The vacuum cleaner runs at its slowest setting, the reduced diameter produces enough airspeed to suck in all dust and most of the flitter. Leave it at the slowest setting since the reduced diameter restricts airflow through the vacuum cleaner, reducing the needed cooling for its motor.

[A-J-Bauer]

Hello Martin,

thank you for your great work!

Did this PCB with a cheap mill and OpenCNCPilot after many failed attempts to get it done without leveling (before I found your program :-))

I made a quick branch with an icon you might want to use.

I like your coding style, nicely done.

Thanks again and regards A.J.Bauer

[martin2250]

Hi @A-J-Bauer,

thanks, your PCB looks great! I absolute love your icon and I actually was about to ask for permission to use it :) I'll definitely add it before the next release!

Happy milling! Martin

[canbaytok]

I just completed my last attempt at milling and protecting the footprint of a QFN IC (NCP5911 Dual Mosfet Driver IC) and took some pictures along the way. Take a look here!

I think the next step would be completing my QFN breakout board and then maybe a fully fledged breadboard module.

[deHarro]

Hi sirsenor, looks quite good :)

Do you remove the solder mask with a spring loaded stylus or just made another pass with the engraving bit, adjusted somewhat higher?

You ask why the height map didn't work any more. Did you perhaps forget to apply the map?

Harald

[canbaytok]

Do you remove the solder mask with a spring loaded stylus or just made another pass with the engraving bit, adjusted somewhat higher?

The latter. I let the spindle spin at a very slow speed. You can see the markings of the engraving bit in the forth and fifth picture.

You ask why the height map didn't work any more. Did you perhaps forget to apply the map?

I believe Ive applied it. I think this issue might be caused when I apply the solder mask and press it down to even it out.

[martin2250]

This is the PCB for my latest project, an energy monitor to plug between an outlet and a device. For clearing out the large copper areas, I used a 1mm endmill and FlatCAM to generate the gcode.

[luizabbadia]

Beautifull job!

On Mon, Dec 24, 2018 at 2:58 PM Martin Pittermann notifications@github.com wrote:

[image: 20181221_104728] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/8293473/50404145-e173bb80-07a4-11e9-99ab-c449b220d9a1.jpg [image: 20181221_104815] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/8293473/50404147-e2a4e880-07a4-11e9-9f78-780a88a8d1c6.jpg [image: 20181222_231439] https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/8293473/50404148-e46eac00-07a4-11e9-8760-08b1ccc5a672.jpg

This is the PCB for my latest project, an energy monitor to plug between an outlet and a device. For clearing out the large copper areas, I used a 1mm endmill and FlatCAM to generate the gcode.

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-- Sds L.Abbadia

[deHarro]

Very clean, congrats!

[martin2250]

Thanks!

[canbaytok]

After 3 or 4 tries I was finally able to get a decent looking double sided and masked PCB: Gotta tweak my settings a little bit, since flatcam produces tiny copper strands between the copper areas.

This time I tried to print a real solder mask onto some transparent foil, but unfortunately my printer is not the newest and the toner is almost empty so the saturation of the black ink was not enough and the UV light managed to get trough and solidify the solder mask on the pads. I tried to remove the solder mask with a little motor and a 0.3mm isolation bit, which does not look good (I only routed of the pads that I had to solder to the board)

For the other side I printed 4 copies of the solder mask and stacked them on top of each other, which helped a lot, but after 4 hours of working on this PCB with no breakfast I was exhausted and the alignment took a hit.

[deHarro]

Fine! Recently (somewhere?) I saw one using a spring loaded stylus to scratch away the solder mask from the pads, again using the router. If you find an easy to implement solution on that (fixing the stylus in whatever to make it scratch lightly enough to not hurt the copper and be guided enough vertically to hit only the pads), please let us know... :-)

[canbaytok]

I will try that technique tomorrow. I just found a suitable spring, which lets the bit move up and down and not fall out of the chuck.

I would also love to know if you guys have any idea which chemical I could use to pretin the pads and more importantly the fiberglass between the pads, because without this the components always have to be soldered to the pad that is connected to something else, which leads to very awkardly soldered components. I found some videos/blog posts/tutorials online that suggest using hydrochloric acid (not a fan of this method) electroplating a copper layer on the fiberglass (which is done industrially, but would require drilling the holes before isolating the pads, which would make solder masking the pads messier, because the solder mask would leak through the holes) or use liquid tin (which seems to be the easiest method, but that stuff is pretty expensive and also very hazardous)

[deHarro]

I found this tutorial https://www.all4hardware4u.de/platinenherstellung/platine-verzinnen/ It's in german, but perhaps you get the point.

He uses a chemical that is used by pipe-fitters to solder copper tubes for water or heating installations. -> Fittingslötpaste Rosol 3 von Rothenberger

[I haven't tried that myself]

[canbaytok]

It's in german, but perhaps you get the point.

I am german too, so there is no problem there :D

I like this method, but I am sure that the paste will not adhere to the fiberglass between two opposing pads and connect them together. I think I will have to abandon the idea of getting the pads of the components to be connected to each other and just order some rivets to create vias

[deHarro]

Ah, now I get the point of "two opposing pads" :-) A through-hole-connection == a via. The rivet methode is usual, I think. (I didn't try that as well)

[canbaytok]

Alright I just completed my tests with a spring loaded routing bit to mill away the solder mask and my results look pretty good for a DIY PCB. Album here!

I think I should create a video of the whole process, as a tutorial or something.

[deHarro]

Very fine! Video would be welcome, and please give a hint on what sort of spring you used as starting point.

Concerning your "strands" issues: Why not give pcb-gcode a chance? I just tried my first design using pcb2gcode, struggled with Eagle to generate the needed Gerber files for pcb2gcode and finally ended up with error messages and "please tell the crew of this problem" hints, resulting in an empty milling file for the text. (I guess I did something wrong, but please don't dive into "do this and thats", I will not switch, at least not now.)

No such problems with pcb-gcode :) and the etching file looks very! similar to the one generated with pcb2gcode (both viewed in OCP), so I will stay with my used-to ULP method.

Harald

[deHarro]

Hi Sirsenor, what type of solder mask do you use? I scanned the net for "lötstopplack" but I found nothing what made me cry "yes, that's it!" There are foils which have to be laminated in some way and some very expensive and some very cheap fluids, but the descriptions of those fluids (on ebay) don't look very accurate. And they seemingly need UV to harden. Harald

[canbaytok]

And they seemingly need UV to harden.

I think you are on the right track, cause I also use a UV flashlight to harden the solder mask, befoure routing it off. I ordered my solder mask from aliexpress. I would personally not recommend buying it off of ebay, because it will still be shipped from china, while costing more... This is my favorite offer: Click! You get to choose from a varienty of different color and the price is not too shabby either (1.50€ for one green solder mask). You will need a plunger for the syringe (I printed myself one from this thing; make sure to modify the OpenSCAD model and tweak the syringe diameter, length, etc.) and a UV light source (I got this 100 LED UV Lamp). To get an even coat of solder mask I use a combination of a spatula (Spachtel) and transparent foil (Folie für Overheadprojektoren).

please give a hint on what sort of spring you used as starting point.

I am using a spring I took out from a pen (Kugelschreiber). But too be honest you will have to DIY yourself a solution. I got lucky, because my routing bit is very long (the end sticks out of the chuck) and the spring has pretty much the same diameter as the bit and wraps around it very tightly (preventing the bit from falling out of the chuck, while still allowing compression). This is (unfortunately) the only problem I couldnt find a universal solution for yet.

[luizabbadia]

Happy New Year to all!!!

Em Seg, 31 de dez de 2018 11:51, sirsenor <notifications@github.com escreveu:

And they seemingly need UV to harden.

I think you are on the right track, cause I also use a UV flashlight to harden the solder mask, befoure routing it off. I ordered my solder mask from aliexpress. I would personally not recommend buying it off of ebay, because it will still be shipped from china, while costing more... This is my favorite offer: Click! https://tinyurl.com/yc52fws3 You get to choose from a varienty of different color and the price is not too shabby either (1.50€ for one green solder mask). You will need a plunger for the syringe (I printed myself one from this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2161401; make sure to modify the OpenSCAD model and tweak the syringe diameter, length, etc.) and a UV light source (I got this 100 LED UV Lamp https://tinyurl.com/ycnyz8dm). To get an even coat of solder mask I use a combination of a spatula (Spachtel) and transparent foil (Folie für Overheadprojektoren).

please give a hint on what sort of spring you used as starting point.

I am using a spring I took out from a pen (Kugelschreiber). But too be honest you will have to DIY yourself a solution. I got lucky, because my routing bit is very long (the end sticks out of the chuck) and the spring has pretty much the same diameter as the bit and wraps around it very tightly (preventing the bit from falling out of the chuck, while still allowing compression). This is (unfortunately) the only problem I couldnt find a universal solution for yet.

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[deHarro]

Same to you!

Gruß Harald Sattler

---

Am 31. Dezember 2018 22:39:03 MEZ schrieb luizabbadia notifications@github.com:

Happy New Year to all!!!>

Em Seg, 31 de dez de 2018 11:51, sirsenor notifications@github.com escreveu:>

And they seemingly need UV to harden.>

I think you are on the right track, cause I also use a UV flashlight to> harden the solder mask, befoure routing it off.> I ordered my solder mask from aliexpress. I would personally not recommend> buying it off of ebay, because it will still be shipped from china, while> costing more...> This is my favorite offer: Click! https://tinyurl.com/yc52fws3> You get to choose from a varienty of different color and the price is not> too shabby either (1.50€ for one green solder mask). You will need a> plunger for the syringe (I printed myself one from this thing> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2161401; make sure to modify the> OpenSCAD model and tweak the syringe diameter, length, etc.) and a UV light> source (I got this 100 LED UV Lamp https://tinyurl.com/ycnyz8dm). To> get an even coat of solder mask I use a combination of a spatula (Spachtel)> and transparent foil (Folie für Overheadprojektoren).>

please give a hint on what sort of spring you used as starting point.>

I am using a spring I took out from a pen (Kugelschreiber). But too be> honest you will have to DIY yourself a solution. I got lucky, because my> routing bit is very long (the end sticks out of the chuck) and the spring> has pretty much the same diameter as the bit and wraps around it very> tightly (preventing the bit from falling out of the chuck, while still> allowing compression). This is (unfortunately) the only problem I couldnt> find a universal solution for yet.>

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[deHarro]

Just finished another board (without solder mask, still :)

This result is accomplished after I corrected the Z axis manually to be -0.02 mm deeper than probed.

On the first run (without manual correction) the stylus just carved the surface of the copper, one could see the routing, but the trench didn't touch the base material, so the traces were connected still.

This happened multiple times (with different layouts) after having updated to 1.5.4.0, but I also got good results on the first try (without changing something) with this version.

This time I sanded the surface before probing since I realized, that probing on my old copper boards coated with UV-film results in to deep carvings. (The idea behind: I think this coating induces increased pressure to penetrate the coating before contact to the copper. Since I glue my boards to the desk with double sided adhesive tape, I think there is some play (the board can give way) so the resulting height map is somewhat too deep (this is easily to be seen, the traces are way to narrow, the gaps too wide on those boards) This only happens when probing. If the stylus rotates - when carving - the parting of the board is less distinctive since the copper is removed by the stylus).

Oh I forgot... It's a DCC Accessory decoder for my modeltrain used to control 4 servos for switching turnouts.

Harald

[martin2250]

I finally had another design that called for a double sided board. It's a testbench for the RFM98 LoRa module. The SMD footprints are 0805, TQFP-32, SOT-23 and 0603 quad resistor arrays. The whole process (excluding design) took me around two hours. A bit of raw footage of the front side is here Cheers!

[deHarro]

NIce! :)

I did some layouting, too. I have some parts, bought back in 2005, to build eight handsets to control one loco with each. Those handsets were meant to work together with other designs of MERG, an mostly british model railroad group. Their designs are somewhat old stilish in the meanwhile, so I decided to switch to a modern, Arduino based design for the digital control system. Since I had these parts on hands, I had to construct some means of connecting the MERG handsets to my DCC++ system and made this adapter. It consists of an Arduino Nano which polls the eight handsets and translates the information to something conform to DCC++.

This is the resulting hardware:

Top left sits a step down converter to derive 5V for the electronics from the 14 V layout voltage. The big capacitor was meant to sit on the backside of the converter, but that position interferes with the USB connector of the Ardino :( Top right sits a driver for the eight clock lines to the handsets. For code writing I replaced the driver IC by a wire since I had only one handset ready. The capacitors next to each RJ connector smoothes the analog readout line of each poti. The handset has some switches and two BCD adress coders which all are read serially by clocking out two parallel in/serial out converters.

Sure enough, the handsets are routed with OCP as well :-)

The thirds IC on the handset is a one shot which derives the parallel load signal from the clock.

The spacing between the traces of the DCC adapter (first picture above) is too wide. I had the same issue I described in my last post in this thread, after having probed and applied the map to my g-code, the carves are too shallow, not touching the base board in some areas. So I manually adjusted the Z axis and gave it another round. As to be expected, my adjustment by hand was way too big, so the carves are too deep. Luckily this time I had choosen wider traces, so all connections were maintained, the layout works as expected :)

Perhaps I have to increase the depth in the generating tool? At the moment I work with -0.04 mm as carving depth, what should go through the usual 35µ copper layer well enough. -> Any thoughts on that topic?

Another observation I encounter: The height map is generated with the standard settings, ~5 mm distance between points. I expect that all bendings of the board should be reckoned into the g-code and all trenches should be equally wide and equally deep. This is not true. I always get areas, about 1 x 2 cm, where the trenches are shallower than in other areas. As far as I remember, those areas are always in the blueish parts of the height maps. -> Is there some tweaking I can do?

Thanks!

Harald

[martin2250]

Cool project, that reminds me I'll have to check for new content on your website soon :)

0.04mm is too little for me as well in most cases. I use 0.05 for most boards (eg. the above). For really fine boards, I use 0.04 and lower it down in 0.005mm steps. By how much do you adjust your Z if you overshoot it every time?

I'm not sure what causes these large areas where the engraving is too shallow. If these areas were smaller than the grid size, that would be pretty obvious... Are your boards glued down over the entire surface or could it be some tiny bit of flex in the affected areas?

[deHarro]

Hi Martin, I did two more boards since yesterday :-) This time I used a 28mm thick POM plate as bed for the boards. Guess what... Yepp, the areas are gone, so I assume, they came from my bad undergrounds I used formerly.

I experimented with wood, thin POM plates and cardboard. The boards are glued to the underground with double sided adhesive trape and I only apply two patches, around 3x5 cm when carving a board in the mentioned size (100 x 60 mm).

Since I have to make 8 handsets I started to make a series with different parameters. All my former designs were carved with the standard settings of pcb-gcode.ulp, thas is 0.04 as depth for the trenches and 0.08 for text. Now I came to 0.06 for trenches and 0.03 for text, but had to adjust the height still. Next board will be carved with 0.07. What I do not understand is, that we probe for Z=0, carve - let's say 0.04 down and still get not through the copper but hardly scratch the surface of the copper. For me it seems, that OCP miscalculates something (please be not offended, I just think "aloud" ;-) I checked the outcome of the applied height map and found, that the Z values are adjusted correctly - original value plus correction from the probing.

Is there the faint possibility that you correct the Z values in the wrong direction? Lets say

• original Z=0.04 (that should go through the copper)
• probed correction -0.02 (the board is bended, the surface is 0.02 mm deeper than expected)
• OCP adds the correction in the wrong way and we get Z=0.02 as result. That would match our experience in resulting in too shallow carves.

I'm not very good in mathematics, so I cannot say whether this is a possible reason. Especially I do not know, if there is really such a wrong calculation in OCP, if then we can still follow the surface correctly. My thought on this is in the direction that a positive probe value (e.g. surface bended higher, +0.02 mm) might put the stylus deeper into the copper... You get the point? (perhaps we may discuss that in german, per PM or ... I get knots in my brain when I try to explain a complicated matter in english ;)

If I missed to apply the height map (or in gray former times even had no means of probing and just carved away), then the stylus got through the copper every time (if the board was not bended too much).

To your question: I adjust the Z axis manually with a handle at the stepper, mostly two to three "clicks".

Harald

[edit] I just realized another silly riddle: I lastly combined the etching part and the text part into one file. Etching uses 0.05 mm, text uses 0.03 mm). The job is done in one continuous run. I had to adjust Z manually by three clicks (Rastungen des Steppers, 200 steps/revolution, lead 3 mm/ revolution) to get through the copper for the etching (the routes and trenches). The text carves go the copper cleanly, despite the fact that they are 0.02 mm shallower than the etching carves. Look at the text:

I didn't let the job come to the text part when not corrected, perhaps I do that in the next days, just to see how the text comes out uncorrected manually... [\edit]

[martin2250]

Hi Harald,

Sadly GitHub does not allow private messages, so here we go:

I've also had issues with flex in the past and since then I always glue down my boards over the whole surface (or at least spread out smaller bits of tape to minimize unsupported regions). My work surface of choice is plywood (at least 9mm) or MDF (>15mm, second choice as it's very sensitive to the ethanol used to bind the dust).

As for your manual adjustment: why risk doing this by hand when you can adjust it precisely in software? When you notice that the engraving is too shallow, stop the file, move your machine to Z=1mm ("G0 Z1") and set the work position to Z=1.005mm ("G92 Z1.005"). The machine will think that it is at a higher position than before and thus engrave 5µ deeper.

I'm pretty sure that the calculation is correct. You can try generating a height map with a formula (see the bottom of the "New HigheMap" dialog) and make the unevenness large enough to see by eye. Then apply the height map to a file and you should see something like the image in the readme.

Martin

[deHarro]

...and here again are my three problems... at least one of them. Did I already mention that I'm not very keen in g-code? I think I did ;-) So, thank you for the correct codes for manual correction of the new offset!

Is this new offset stored "forever" anywhere in GRBL or in OCP, or is this to be done on every new run?

Laying in bed tonight I already thought of a similar environment to prove the mathematics in OCP. I will stagger some metallic parts and do some probing. I'll keep you posted :-)

What's that dust binding ethanol thing? You spray ethanol over your board when carving to prevent dust from flying around? I quickly mounted a nozzle at my machine which I attach to a vacuum cleaner:

The nozzle is made of 16mm plastic tube "Installationsrohr", the lower part is fixed in a standard clip, somewhere above I mounted a piece of thin metal with a clip, too, to adjust the tilting of the tube (and so the distance between bit and nozzle). The curve is done with hot air. I may post some detailed pics, but at the moment I have no pics on hands and am awaiting guests... ;-)

Harald

[edit] Here are the promised pics of my quick and dirty dust absorption:

(Is there any means of rotating uploaded pictures? This is the first time that my uploads are not in the same orientation as the originals on my computer...) (hint: if you click on the pics they open in a separate window where the orientation is correct)

The neccessity to attach a permanent dust vent arouse when I made 6 word clocks for Xmas in series and the milling of the front cover with 144 characters and 4 circles lasts for roughly 2 hours. Back then I decided to not want to sit and stare and guide the vacuum cleaner manually :-) [\edit]

[alfadex]

Hi guys , i am reading with loyalty all conversation and i am happy i found it. I am here from martin 's program and i am also very happy with , i used bcnc which is great also. I would like to join in conversation but accuracy of my machine does not allow me that. i have made Portalcyclone here I have design a new one cnc for pcb and i am waiting for parts to arrive. It is here but i have expand all axis for 10cm. Martin are you using cnc 1610? DeHarro what is your machine? Do you have to suggest any improvement to my new machine?

[deHarro]

Hi alfadex, you can see all about my machine here HTH Harald

[mike6000]

I am looking to build a pcb milling setup and find the pictures here interesting. Is the Zen toolworks machine stiff / low backlash enough to achieve good results (using height compensation by probing?) https://www.zencnc.com/shop/cnc-machines-kits/ or should I loook for another machine. I will use the machine for pcb milling. Not for milling in other materials.

[deHarro]

Cool project, that reminds me I'll have to check for new content on your website soon :)

Hi Martin, now it's time to check back at my site, I uploaded some pages on DCC controlling of my ROKAL model train layout :)

All the boards mentioned are routed with OCP, of course ;-)

Have fun... Harald

[luizabbadia]

Very well done,deHarro.!!! Congrats!! Although german is a tough language for me to read, and a lot of work to translate to english or my native portuguese, I can see that you are a very busy, active and creative person. I think you would reach a bigger audience if your site have an English option so many people could appreciate your work. Well done!!

On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 6:01 PM deHarro notifications@github.com wrote:

Cool project, that reminds me I'll have to check for new content on your website soon :)

Hi Martin, now it's time to check back at my site http://www.harald-sattler.de/html/anderungen.htm, I uploaded some pages on DCC controlling of my ROKAL model train layout :)

Have fun... Harald

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