Additional pictures and bend info

[vactomas]

Hello, I stumbled upon your design and I think it's absolutely terrific. I'd like to modify it to accept XT60 connector as an input instead of the USB PD decoy module. That said, I am a bit lost on how you put together the whole case.

When you bend the lid, do you heat the part 42.4 mm from each end and bend it?

There is no mention of power switch, but in the provided photo, there seems to be one. Is it a switch or fuse? I presume it's wired between the Decoy positive output and input of the RK6006, correct?

Also, would you mind posting a couple more photos?

Thank you!

[milelo]

I've created the 3D CAD design as an assembled unit. If you open it up in FreeCAD you can show and hide the various elements and pan, zoom, rotate etc.

[milelo]

Regarding the bends:

1. You need something with a 90deg angle to set the bend angles against. I used a book stop but most things with a right-angle will do.
2. When heating, shield the acrylic beyond the ends of the bend line, exposed to the heat. I use a thin metal ruler with heat-resistant tape on it.
   1. For the base, you can easily see where the bend-lines need to be be from the shape of the acrylic.
   2. All the base bends are easy to do precisely if you understand what you are trying to achieve. Do the sides first; the unbent front and back act as a guide for the bend positions.
   3. Place the bend lines directly over the hot nichrome wire until the acrylic is pliable. ~1.5mins for the setup I had.
   4. Don't force the radius of the bend to anything other than the natural radius that forms when you bend the acrylic with your two hands without any guides, then set the correct angle with the guide.
   5. After the sides bend the back and front. This time the sides act as a guide for the bend positions.
   6. The top is more tricky as there are no guides other than the measurement.
   7. Measure from each end and draw a line parallel to the each end which will be the centre line of the bend. Heat with these lines directly above and aligned with the hot nichrome wire.
   8. Best to bend the right side of the top first as viewed from the front. Ensure you bend it the correct way relative to the vent position.
   9. The second top bend is critical so you need to be careful with it; if the width is too narrow the top won't fit.
   10. After you have bent the top side and set the angle, you have a few seconds to make sure it fits the base while the material is still pliable and could potentially be corrected. I've helped make a few and they all ended up fitting perfectly without any correction.

I'll add a picture of the simple line bender I made, when I get chance.

[milelo]

Here a photo of the base of first version of the case I made, along with my line-bender

[milelo]

There is no switch or fuse, they aren't necessary. The RK6006 has its own power switch and protection.

In the unit I made, as well as the decoy module USB-C input I have also provided a barrel jack input.

The the decoy module output, and barrel jack are wired in parallel to RK6006 input. Obviously you shouldn't connect both at the same time. There is no protection against this.

[vactomas]

Thank you so much! This info is very helpful. Looking forward to building it!

[milelo]

Your welcome. Let me know how you get on.

[vactomas]

I was able to put it together. That said, I ran into a couple of issues. The main one concerns the location of the bend of the upper "lid" part. In the spreadsheet you provided, there is a number 42,4 mm. When I tried that, the upper part of the lid was way too big. I then tried going for 48 mm as center line of the bend. The resulting part is functional, but the fit isn't the greatest. Ideally, I think I should have gone for 46-47 mm. I might redo it. That said, I am happy with the result!

[milelo]

Looking good. The lid is on the wrong-way round, the vents should be at the front over the module so the air is directed over the heat-sink. The 42.4 mm is correct, it was calculated and worked for me. I think you must have misunderstood what its for. The line is the centre line where you apply heat to, so it becomes the mid-point of the bend radius. So the length of the side before the bend + half way round the curve = 42.4mm. https://photos.app.goo.gl/rWuVo1AePfBYJ8LRA

[milelo]

A nice touch is to give it a bottom adhesive foot to pivot on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/GayYmg5KtVRR9Q8TA

[vactomas]

The pic was before I swapped the screws for shorter ones. Now it looks much more polished. The bottom "legs" part is there, just not visible.

About the 42.4 mm. I know it is the location of the center of the radius. It just didn't work out for me. The reason might be because I used a dedicated heater and plastic bender, which might have been the reason, why it is offset.

I might probably rotate the lid just like you said.