Open jlm70 opened 1 year ago
Thanks for mentioning! I was not aware of a wireless version, I suspect that it is a new product. I will read more carefully in a few days. Edit: a link to the device, so I don't have to Google it again: https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/badger-2040-w
My first reaction is Pico W may add a few mm to the thickness of the device. Would it be a badge at the end? Not sure. For instance, the case that I have for 2040 is already ~12mm thick. I am sure that I can make it a little thinner ~9mm and solder the battery module.
That said, Wireless option is what I truly missed while I was working on the project. It would have been more fun if I uploaded a little puzzle that one has to solve with a team. An alternative option that I considered was to attach Adafruit ST25DV16K I2C RFID: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4701 to a built-in Qwiic / STEMMA QC connector.
A quote from the website: "Measurements: 85.6mm x 48.7mm x 10mm (L x W x H, including connectors). The mounting holes are M2.5 and 3.0mm in from each edge. The corner radius is 3mm." I could not find a side photo, but at least dimensions are identical to Badger2040.
I have a feeling that @Gadgetoid might have some insights. Thoughts?
The battery connector is still the tallest component on Badger 2040 W. The WiFi can is a little shorter than the qw/st connector and the microB connector just a little taller. You'd probably need a thicker case to accommodate it, since there's no longer a good clear spot on the back to squeeze a LiPo (though it does depend which one you use).
Other differences include the loss of the boot/USR button (since this pin isn't exposed on Pico W like it is on RP2040) and slightly larger mounting holes (though my Badger 2040 might be a prototype)
If "we decide" to use a specific battery option (eg. the 3 button batteries), maybe it would be better to directly solder the battery compartment to the board and get rid of the tall battery connector... But I'm a bit newbie on soldering electronics and I should learn how to do it - but I've the tools, so... "only" to study a bit and do.
Should you need any info about 2040W dims, let me know!
Cool beans! I'll get mine a couple of days to play around with. We'll need to create a blueprint first to get started, i.e. placements & dimensions of mounting holes, buttons, components, etc. Also, while I remember this, an option to explore -- AAAA-batteries.
That said, I need to finish another project in-flight first before I fall down the rabbit hole.
Just leaving a note to myself... I came across these batteries https://www.powerstream.com/thin-lithium-ion.htm. Although, I believe RPi Pico will drain them in an hour or two, but -- hey -- these batteries are really thin. RP2040 will double/triple the lifetime. Edit: these or similar batteries are being used in Arduboy.
Nice batteries! Meanwhile over the last 3 days... your rabbit passed across my house and i did measure, design, test print... and test print... and test print... and test print a "naked" case version that i like a lot, mixing my laser cutter and 3d printer to create a dress really made to measure... impossible to have something thinner. I created two versions: one for the nice LiPo battery 400mAh (super thin) and one for the 2xAA case (a bit bulky). I've ordered some more precise M2 bolts/nuts and a micro switch to finish my work (that i'll place on etsy, already printed, but to all of you with no probs). Precise to 1/10th of mm... i got a bit crazy 😆 Do you like it? On the left edge I've given the possibility to exchange "the brand logo" easily, so to easily repurpose the badge for different occasions/clients/companies...
Splendid! Curious, which laser cutter do you have? From what I can see, edges are not burned at all--did you use sand paper or they came out clean as is? I bought Emblaser 2 a while ago; however, these days I don't use it as much as I used to.
Thank @oneearedrabbit! I'm using a simple xTool M1 10W for this (1.5mm wood). In short I should take home a Glowforge Pro (45W) that I used at the office. I didn't sand it: pieces are just as they come out from the laser.
Normally I rather prefer using the laser, when I can, vs the Ultimaker. Pieces seems more refined. Probably the best in our badger case would be the front cover done with the laser and the back/sides with the 3d printer...
Now I did a similar naked enclosure for the LiPo Amigo Pro battery charger. Effectively... if Pimoroni integrated a similar charger, the 400mAh LiPo i'm using, a switch and a buzzer on a new badger... it could become an awesome little device :)
Really a great, great, great work! Have you perhaps in plan to make a similar case for... the one I have, that is the new 2040W? Unluckily the new one is different in terms of buttons and electronics position :(
PS: as a (very) nice add-on for the new "W" wireless version: it would be great (!) to find the space to solder and include a little buzzer, so to produce a beep when some information is wirelessly received that could change the screen... Just an idea for many potential use cases... (for instance in a team with many persons with badges, to change related group, score, or the like from a centralised served - with the badges polling for new infos every minute).
Many many thanks!