Wildcards in upload_port not working

[wackyfrog]

$ pio device list

/dev/cu.wlan-debug
------------------
Hardware ID: n/a
Description: n/a

/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port
-------------------------------
Hardware ID: n/a
Description: n/a

**/dev/cu.usbmodem11201**
---------------------
Hardware ID: n/a
Description: n/a

platformio.ini

[env:uno]
platform = atmelavr
board = uno
framework = arduino
upload_port = /dev/cu.usbmodem*

System: mac os 12.3.1 Board: Arduino UNO PlatformIO Core, version 5.2.5

$ pio run -t upload

Looking for upload port...
**Error: Please specify `upload_port` for environment or use global `--upload-port` option.**
For some development platforms it can be a USB flash drive (i.e. /media/<user>/<device name>)
*** [upload] Explicit exit, status 1