prusa3d / Original-Prusa-i3

Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer printed parts
http://prusa3d.com
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MK3S: Unable to back off the filament on filament runout #135

Open maximlevitsky opened 5 years ago

maximlevitsky commented 5 years ago

When filament runs out, it is often quite curled due to being on the inner diameter of the spool. When the IR sensor detects the runout, user is asked to unload the filament but when this is attempted, the filament is stuck inside 'adapter-printer.stl' because it is a bit curled around the ball, and thus it doesn't hit the hole through which it was inserted in first place.

I manually fixed that by enlarging that hole, and adding a chamfer to the corresponding hole in the filament sensor cover from below.

ManuGithubSteam commented 5 years ago

Hi This seems like a good upgrade :-) Would you share your stls or design files ? Thanks

maximlevitsky commented 5 years ago

I did that in the old fashoned way, with a knife :)

tkircher commented 5 years ago

I had this exact issue as well. Essentially every time I have a filament runout, I have to unscrew the idler and back the filament out with pliers. Don't really want to disassemble the hotend to fix it, since it happens so infrequently, but Prusa should really fix this.

PeterWelzien commented 4 years ago

I also have this exact issue EVERY time I run out of filament. It's quite annoying having to open the idler and trying to get a hold of the filament with some pliers and pull them out. A fix would be much appreciated.

DWave42 commented 4 years ago

I am starting a chat with Prusa right now about this issue.

acetech09 commented 4 years ago

I've also had this issue every time I run out of filament, since I assembled the machine. I saw this thread a while ago, tried to chamfer/open up the holes, it still occurs.

tkircher commented 4 years ago

The right solution is probably to move the head up and to the home position and then extrude out the rest of the filament, rather than trying to unload it.

bartlee01 commented 4 years ago

I have this same problem on Mk3S and Mk3S with MMU2S. I have been dealing with it by straightening or cutting off the kinked end of the filament but this problem needs fixing. Another fix would be for the end bit of kinked filament to be much longer and have a rounded tip.

tkircher commented 4 years ago

@akukan @josefprusa @veverkaondrej Still looking for a workaround on this issue. It's still an issue.

TurboCooler commented 3 years ago

@akukan @josefprusa @veverkaondrej -- just lost a 20hr print because of this issue. After the filament ran out, it was not able to retract the remaining filament. I opened the door to remove the filament stuck in the extruder. While doing so the X moved as the filament was really jammed. The print did not recover and I lost the print. A very SIMPLE solution would be to add code to firmware that when the filament runs out that the X/Y move to a corner and simply purges the remaining filament. You have the signal that filament has runout. You know the length that is left based on the height from the gear to the sensor. Simply extrude that amount and allow someone to load additional filament and continue. This would eliminate the problem completely.

bartlee01 commented 3 years ago

When filament runs out on mmu2s this problem is even worse. Unless you have manually straightened and cut a rounded point on the filament end it almost always gets stuck in the mmu2s on unload. It should park in a corner and give you the choice to either unload or purge the remaining filament.

tkircher commented 3 years ago

@TurboCooler @bartlee01 Agreed that there should be an option to purge out the filament. Part of the problem is that the extruder gear can't drive the whole dead volume out of the extruder by itself, which is why I suspect they did it this way in the first place. But it's definitely superior to purge out the old filament with the new.

3d-gussner commented 3 years ago

Hello everyone, Nice to see some discussion here, but as this repository is related to the "hardware" design and not the firmware I think it is in the wrong place. Please reopen a new issue here if you think it is firmware related and close this issue here.

tkircher commented 3 years ago

@3d-gussner This is still a hardware issue, but it may also be a firmware issue, or it's possible that the hardware can't be fixed and there can only be a workaround in firmware. TBD.

olilam commented 3 years ago

Exact same issue on my last print! A fix would be great!

TheLion commented 3 years ago

Just had the issue on 2 consecutive prints on my MK3S. I hadn't figured out the issue, but When reading te comments, I now know 😜.

I do wonder if the MK3S+ upgrade fixes this issue, as I already have the kit lying around 😉

Does anybody know if this is the case?

TurboCooler commented 3 years ago

Just had the issue on 2 consecutive prints on my MK3S. I hadn't figured out the issue, but When reading te comments, I now know 😜.

I do wonder if the MK3S+ upgrade fixes this issue, as I already have the kit lying around 😉

Does anybody know if this is the case?

No, it does not. The only thing that works provided you can catch it on time is to cut the end at 45 degrees so there is no hook or blob on filament on the end. Then using your fingers make the end as straight as possible. This works for me but it is a pain to time on very long prints.

The worst part of this problem is if you get a jam and while clearing it you move the head or plate even a tiny bit it will never be able to restart correctly. If they homed the head or somehow reset where it left off it could work if you get a jam. Glad to see I am not the only one with this issue and hopefully there is a fix.

tkircher commented 3 years ago

Unfortunately, limit switches (or collision detection in the case of the Trinamic drivers) aren't precise enough for reliable re-homing. There just needs to be a better way to back out the filament and remove jams. Though, the MK3S+ did include some extruder tweaks to improve the situation.

UltraSalem commented 3 years ago

It's been a while since I used it, but I seem to recall my mk2s runout sensor worked fine and the filament would back out and let me reload new filament without issue. Not sure what changed inside the extruder block for the mk3s to break it, but it jams backing out every time on my mk3s

napter commented 2 years ago

Does anyone have a good solution to this other than snipping the filament end? I was thinking of designing a mod to move the sensor up and out of the extruder body so that there is a gap where you can pull the filament out. I made a similar setup on my ender 5 but that sensor was separate to begin with.

TurboCooler commented 2 years ago

Does anyone have a good solution to this other than snipping the filament end? I was thinking of designing a mod to move the sensor up and out of the extruder body so that there is a gap where you can pull the filament out. I made a similar setup on my ender 5 but that sensor was separate, to begin with.

The only thing that I have come up with is a filament spool runout sensor. I am still designing the enclosure for the spool. Essentially, once the spool runs out send a text message and given the lead between the spool end and when it enters the extruder I figure I have as much as 15min before I need to reach it and snip the end. No, not elegant at all but easy to implement until maybe there is some future integrated solution.

lifewithmy3Dprinter commented 10 months ago

I'm having the same issue. The filament gets stuck when trying to back out.

Three fixes:

ArmoredCarbon commented 3 months ago

I am having this issue as well, and I always clip the bent ends of the filament and straighten it. Has anyone come up with an easy solution yet? If not I'm just going to rebuild the runout sensor which I know is going to be a complete pain. My current idea is to drill it out and run a ptfe tube through the sensor assembly. A hole in the side of the tube should allow the sensor to detect the filament.

napter commented 2 months ago

I am having this issue as well, and I always clip the bent ends of the filament and straighten it. Has anyone come up with an easy solution yet? If not I'm just going to rebuild the runout sensor which I know is going to be a complete pain. My current idea is to drill it out and run a ptfe tube through the sensor assembly. A hole in the side of the tube should allow the sensor to detect the filament.

I made a very crude mod that takes the original sensor housing and puts it on a leg so it sits above the extruder. Since there is a gap between the sensor and the extruder, the bent end never goes into the extruder (and can be pulled out of the sensor if it didn't exit completely).