Initial Testing

[Kranzy]

Hi sfeakes,

Thought I would post here to keep our discussions about AquapureD separate from AqualinkD.

My RS485 converter showed up last night. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0721BB8PQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would you might giving a bit of direction about whats involved in introducing power on the RS485? Will I need to supply power into the Tri Chlor or just the 2 data pins?

Im assuming just setting up rasbian on the pi?

I have a Pi model B (from memory) laying around not doing anything that I'll be using. Ill be running ethernet to the shed (backs onto house) and will be looking at integrating it with home assistant once its all up and running.

[AUPoolUser]

Kranzy, can you please take a photo of the connector? My guess would be from this document below that you only need connect the A and B wires.

https://www.aquatechpoolspasolutions.com.au/image/data/manuals_guides/Zodiac/Zodiac%20Product%20Brochures/Zodiac%20Chlorinators/Tri%20XO/Tri%20XO%20Manual/Zodiac%20TRi-XO%20Manual.pdf

[Kranzy]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11aJhwEV9gFtvIbM6sXoOA5lFJrsw94u4/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HrrM5e3YLhkO3Vik55_4ZlnMCTbozym7/view?usp=drivesdk

Looking at that link that’s my chlorinator so connecting A & B to A & B on the RS485 board?

[AUPoolUser]

That’s correct. DO NOT connect the Ground at all to anything.

[sfeakes]

Looking at that link that’s my chlorinator so connecting A & B to A & B on the RS485 board?

Yes that's correct. Just two wires between Chlorinator and RS485 USB adapter.

Would you might giving a bit of direction about whats involved in introducing power on the RS485?

When I did this before, I piggybacked power from a control panel. So used power + and - from control panel to RS485 connection on chlorinator. Then A / B from Chlorinator to A / B on RS485USB adapter.

So, I would just use a DC power adapter and connect the + & - to the + & - of the RS485 port on the Chlorinator. As for voltage, you should look at specs, I seem to remember 12v, (I can check if you want), but don't take that for granted.

BUT first of all, you could try with no voltage, just to see.

[Kranzy]

Ok so finally got around to running some cable to the shed with the pool equipment.

Im downloading the software now to put on my raspberry pi.

Will be in touch with how it all goes.

[Kranzy]

Ok so couldn't get the software to run based on the readme file.

pi@raspberrypi:~/Documents/AquapureD-master/release $ sudo aquarited -d -c aquarited.conf sudo: aquarited: command not found

Copied the files to the documents folder and when trying to run based on the readme file i kept getting aquarited: command not found

Apologies if I have missed something simple with this.

[Kranzy]

Did a bit of research yesterday and changed the permissions of aquarited to be executable which then ran the script.

pi@raspberrypi:~/Documents/AquapureD-master $ sudo ./release/aquarited -d -c ./release/aquarited.conf Error: Open file failed '/tmp/aquarite.cache' Debug: Starting aquarited! Notice: Starting MQTT client to (null) Debug: Openeded serial port /dev/ttyUSB0 Debug: Set serial port /dev/ttyUSB0 to non blocking mode Debug: Set serial port /dev/ttyUSB0 io attributes Debug: Sent Probe | HEX: 0x00|0x10|0x02|0x50|0x00|0x62|0x00|0xc4|0x10|0x03|0x00| Debug: Send Probe Debug: Nothing read Debug: Sent Probe | HEX: 0x00|0x10|0x02|0x50|0x00|0x62|0x00|0xc4|0x10|0x03|0x00| Notice: MQTT client stopped Notice: Starting MQTT client to (null) Debug: Nothing read Debug: Sent Probe | HEX: 0x00|0x10|0x02|0x50|0x00|0x62|0x00|0xc4|0x10|0x03|0x00| Notice: MQTT client stopped

Currently I have A & B wired from the chlorinator to the RS485 board. No power currently connected to the +/- of the chlorinator comms. I'm not sure if I'm not getting a response because it needs power, or if my chlorintor controller setting is correct.

The options are:

• Aqualink Tri (Current Selection)
• Jandy Rev L/M
• Jandy Rev K
• EOS/PENTAIR

If you could confirm that is the correct controller setting and if so I guess my next option is to inject power. I did have a look around however I could not find any definitive answer for my chlorinator on what power is required.

[Kranzy]

The readme also states:

If you see an ACK after the probe, then we are in buisness. If not, and the RS485 port is setup correctly, then not much can be done.

What can i do to test the RS485 port is setup correctly?

[Kranzy]

@sfeakes

Another question for you. When this is up and running, will I still have my pump plugged into the Chlorinator or will I need to setup a relay to control the pump?

If you can let me know what voltage is required for the chlorinator that would be great. I have tried to find out online but as yet don't have a definitive answer, if you have a controller can you measure what it's putting out over the +/- pins for the RS485.

[sfeakes]

Set the chlorintor controller to either Jandy setting. But if you didn't see any ACK from the PROBE then their might be more to it than just that setting. This software only understands the Jandy protocol, I'm not sure how different (if at all) the other ones are. Next would be to add some power to the RS485 (but only the chlorintor side, not the RS485 USB adapter). I know mine needed power when it was configured without a control panel.

[sfeakes]

According to the below, it's 10 Volt DC that you need to supply. https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6919.pdf

Since the chlorintor has it's own power, I'm sure the power over the RS485 bus is simply for some circuit detection, so no need to worry about amps, BUT I would keep it to the lowest AMP power supply you can find. So something below 1 AMP. Best bet would probably be a 9v battery to test with rather than buying a power supply if you don't have one. The 9V (6LR61) that you find in smoke detectors. And on Jandy equipment it's the two outside wires (labeled red & green).

According to the below (your equipment), the wires labeled Red and Green, but they are at one end of the 4 pin connector. Red is +, green is - https://www.aquatechpoolspasolutions.com.au/image/data/manuals_guides/Zodiac/Zodiac%20Product%20Brochures/Zodiac%20Chlorinators/Tri%20XO/Tri%20XO%20Manual/Zodiac%20TRi-XO%20Manual.pdf

[sfeakes]

One more edit, reading the document on your chlorintor, it looks like it will only try to connect to the RS485 for the first 20 seconds after the initial power on. So start AquapureD, then turn on the chlorintor. Might be worth trying that before you add power if that's not how you did it before.

Also in your manual, it looks like the chlorintor might have a 10v output to manage it's own equipment, so it's also worth trying to jumper the 10v out to the 10v in connections. You need a multimeter to test this theory, read the install guide and understand electronics. You should probably do it with a diode as well. You could really mess things up if you don;t know what you are doing, so be careful. That also goes for adding external power from a battery as well.

[Kranzy]

Ok so had a bit more of a play around with this.

From the photo attached you can see the cat6 cable I used to run into the study, where I can also inject power.

Looking at the photo on the far right, the red/black serves the fan ~20v DC the next is as per the board 15v DC

I have used the A/B from the chlorinator to A/B on the RS485 board.

same result before with or without power, no response (no ACK). Tx light on RS485 board lights up but no activity on the Rx led.

Is there any chance that the A & B needs to be swapped?

I decided not to jump power from inside the unit at the moment as I wasn't confident that it wouldn't fry the board.

[sfeakes]

You could try swapping A and B it won’t damage anything. Did you try to connect after powering up the chlorinator? According to the manual it will only try to communicate for 20sec after a power up reset / boot. So each new thing you try you’ve got to power cycle the whole chlorinator.

[Kranzy]

Yeah I have been turning the chlorinator off then on a again after testing.

Swapped A/B around with no difference in result. No response at all.

Is there a way to test that the RS485 board is setup correctly? Any other reasons why there would be no responses?

Any suggestions on what to try next? Would the length of cable be a potential issue? Currently I have the raspberry pi in the study but once its all up and going ill be putting it in the shed and using the ethernet cable to connect to the network so it'll be a shorter serial cable.

[sfeakes]

RS485 as a protocol is supposed to be good to something like 4000 ft, but no way you can go that far with the power. I'd say 40ft probably about the max for what you are testing with at the moment.

But the next thing would be to put them close to each other to test.

[Kranzy]

Cool, ill give that a shot.

Should this code work using Ubuntu? To make it easier to test I created a Ubuntu live USB so I could test on my laptop rather than having to setup the pi in the shed at the moment. Trying to run in either ubuntu in windows or the live usb i would get

"Syntax error: word unexpected (expecting ")")"

[sfeakes]

You’ll have to compile it for Ubuntu as it’s comes compiled for the pi. Just run ‘make clean’ then ‘make’ from the director you downloaded AquapureD into. You’ll probably also have to install gcc on Ubuntu depending on what distro you’re using. But I don’t think the live CD/usb has gcc, and installing anything on a live CD is a pain, so you may be SOL unless you install a full blown Ubuntu, or have one to compile on.

[Kranzy]

So I was able to install gcc in ubuntu running in windows but now I'm not sure that ill be able to access the usb->serial converter.

Anyway I noticed when I did a make clean and make that it created a new aqualinkd file in the release folder. Should I be running aqualinkd or aquarited? in the commands on the wiki?

When I try and run sudo ./release/aquarited -d -c ./release/aquarited.conf after running make I get ./release/aquarited: 1: ./release/aquarited: Syntax error: word unexpected (expecting ")")

Apologies if these are basic questions.

[sfeakes]

My mistake, it should be make aquarited, not make

[art0]

@sfeakes @Kranzy Any luck connecting to the Tri-Expert? I have a Zodiac Tri-Expert and wanted to control it from Linux. Did you figure out what voltage to put in the "POS" of the PCB board?

[Kranzy]

@sfeakes @Kranzy Any luck connecting to the Tri-Expert? I have a Zodiac Tri-Expert and wanted to control it from Linux. Did you figure out what voltage to put in the "POS" of the PCB board?

I didnt get much further to be honest. I have a raspberry pi that I am going to setup to mount in the shed rather than running a long cable. I just havn't had the time to move and test it. I wasn't getting any responses prior to this. It would be great to have someone else trying to test it also. Hoping I can get this sorted.

[art0]

@Kranzy, can you share an email/url so we can be in touch? Will be good to give it a try. I am not very happy with the ORP tracking of the tri-expert and I want to control it from a Linux box. Did you power the POS with 10V?

[Kranzy]

Did you power the POS with 10V?

I did my initial testing with a 9v battery. As I mentioned I'm going to move the pi to the shed with the pool equipment instead of using a long cable for testing.

If you want to get in touch, my email is kranzy85@ (gmail account). But I think its good to keep as much of the discussion here as possible.

[sbhc68]

Hello,

I am also interested in this project. I have a Zodiac Tri 10 with a raspberry pi 2.

Do you have news about the first tests?

Thank you.

[tortfeaser]

Hi there. I'm keen for this to work.

I've tried it with an RPi3 and a generic USB-485 adaptor, with a Zodiac Tri pH. AquapureD sees the 485 adaptor. The result is below. Connections: A connected to A, B to B. I tried with and without 9v DC to the pos and - terminals on the chlorinator, no difference. I tried with 9v to the cholorinator and - (only) to both the chlorinator and the 485 adaptor, no difference. I tried with AquapureD running, then powering up the chlorinator, no difference. Tried starting AquapureD in less than 10s after powering up the chlorinator, no difference. Tried applying 9v at various times, no different result.

Chlorinator was set on the Jandy controller option (both of them tried, no result).

All the wiring tested with a multimeter, works. I see pulses on the chlorinator A and B terminals on a oscilloscope.

Any ideas on what else I can try? How can I debug this? Seems utterly daft to buy a controller just to be able to turn off and on the chlorinator and set boost/holiday modes.

pi@raspberrypi:~ $ sudo ./AquapureD/release/aquarited -d -c ./AquapureD/release/aquarited.conf
Error:  Open file failed '/tmp/aquarite.cache'
Debug:  Starting aquarited!
Notice: Starting MQTT client to (null)
Debug:  Openeded serial port /dev/ttyUSB0
Debug:  Set serial port /dev/ttyUSB0 to non blocking mode
Debug:  Set serial port /dev/ttyUSB0 io attributes
Debug:  Sent        Probe  | HEX: 0x00|0x10|0x02|0x50|0x00|0x62|0x00|0xc4|0x10|0x03|0x00|
Debug:  Send Probe
Debug:  Nothing read
Debug:  Sent        Probe  | HEX: 0x00|0x10|0x02|0x50|0x00|0x62|0x00|0xc4|0x10|0x03|0x00|
Notice: MQTT client stopped
Notice: Starting MQTT client to (null)
Debug:  Nothing read

[sfeakes]

In the Jandy (& Pentair) protocol, the master RS485 device sends a Probe to a specific ID, and if a device at that ID is alive, with sends an ACK, after that, communication can start and things get more detailed and controlled. On Jandy the maser is fixed at device ID 0x00 and a SWG fixed at 0x50. Pentair the master ID is a bit different. So you can see that Aquapure is sending the "Probe" and not getting any reply (or anything at all on the RS485).

In HEX command above, the 4th byte 0x50 is the address the probe is sent to (ie sent to SWG). Unless you see some other information coming back / being listed, then the SWG is not replying or doesn't understand the "probe" packet.

I'd play with the Jandy protocol settings on the SWG. Until you get some form of reply from the SWG you can't go much further.

[sfeakes]

Few thoughts. 1) Power could be an issue, I'm really not sure what the Trick expects, this software was what I used to control Aquarite SWG (which uses Jandy protocol). That needed Power to the RS485 connectors, then just A & B to the USB adapter. 2) Only other thing I can think of is to switch the A and B wires. A and B means nothing, it's actually Data+ and Data-, A is Data + on the USB adapter and B is data - on the USB. That's usually A = Black and B = Yellow (but that does depend). Switching them will not hurt anything as long as you the the power and ground wires appropriately.

3) The Jandy protocol setting should be "Jandy L/M" from the Tri manual, but either should work the only difference is the initial device signature after they start communicating, and you haven't got that far yet.

You could use some other tools that will monitor the RS485 network, (like serial_logger from aqualinkd), just to see if you notice anything from the Trip unit. But from my knowledge of Jandy SWG they are completely silent on the RS bus until they get that first Probe packet.

[Kranzy]

Hi there. I'm keen for this to work.

I tried with and without 9v DC to the pos and - terminals on the chlorinator, no difference. I tried with 9v to the cholorinator and - (only) to both the chlorinator and the 485 adaptor, no difference. I tried with AquapureD running, then powering up the chlorinator, no difference. Tried starting AquapureD in less than 10s after powering up the chlorinator, no difference. Tried applying 9v at various times, no different result.

Chlorinator was set on the Jandy controller option (both of them tried, no result).

Does your controller look the same as the image of mine posted above? With the 15v terminals next to the RS485 connections? Have you tried jumping those over to provide power to the RS485 bus? Im sceptical to try this as all the docs I can find suggest its only 10v.

I have been a bit busy so havnt had a chance in a while to try this however I'm glad your giving it a go also so hopefully together we can come up with a solution as I would love to be able to integrate it with Home Assistant.

@sfeakes I'm assuming you're all over the forum threads around this but I found this while looking https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/control-your-jandy-equipment-from-your-pc-with-a-15-adapter.27391/page-12#post-1132598

[sfeakes]

@Kranzy. Yup, I've read that. That is all about how to mimic a keypad to control the RS485 master, same thins AqualinkD does. This (Aquapure) needs to mimic the RS485 master to control the SWG, meaning it has to control the RS bus and not be a slave to it.

If the Tri can correctly mimic Jandy AquaPure, then it must be some the power that's the problem. I used the. I used the control panel to power the RS bus for this, just didn't connect the data terminals to the master, they connect to the USB device.

The other thing you could try is this. https://github.com/tagyoureit/nodejs-poolController

Since the Pentair uses the Jandy protocol for SWG, and the above project states it can support stand alone SWG, it should work to control Pentair SWG. Since it uses the same hardware, it should be easy to test.

[art0]

Hi Just to make sure that we are all the same page. This is what I found around (See picture)

A B

POS OV

So A and B are data ports for RS485 and OV is a nice way to say "Ground". And POS should stand for "positive?"

It is unclear what voltage should be there? 10V?

[sfeakes]

I believe mine is 12v. I seem to remember that the TRi has a ~12vdc on a different terminal block from reading the manual a long time ago. I wonder if you could simply use that (ie jumper the 12v output to the RS485 0v & POS terminal). I actually don't believe the RS485 bus needs to be powered for this to work since the Trip has it's own power for the RS circuit. BUT I think it may need to be powered simply so if thinks something is connected on the bus. You may also try connecting 0V on the Trip to the ground on the USB adapter (if it's a 3 terminal adapter), and not applying any power at all.

[tortfeaser]

Thanks for all this. I'll post a pic of the terminals on my chlorinator and try swapping A and B. I'll have a look at the nodejs project too.

(I had tried connecting 0v to the USB adaptor but not without also connecting 9v to the TRi. My adaptor is a 3 terminal one.)

[tortfeaser]

That nodejs project (https://github.com/tagyoureit/nodejs-poolController) readme has the following. Is this going to be a useful test for our purposes here? I'll try it too and post the results.

To see if you are getting the proper communications from the bus, before you even try to run this program, run from your unix command line od -x < /dev/ttyUSB0 Of course, you'll need to change the address of your RS-485 adapter if it isn't the same as mine (here and in the code). You'll know you have the wires right when the output of this command looks like (you should see multiple repetitions of ffa5ff):

0002240 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 ff00 ffff ffff
0002260 **ffff 00ff a5ff** 0f0a 0210 161d 000c 0040
0002300 0000 0000 0300 4000 5004 2050 3c00 0039
0002320 0400 0000 597a 0d00 af03 00ff a5ff 100a
0002340 e722 0001 c901 ffff ffff ffff ffff ff00

This is the WRONG wiring (no ffa5ff present).

0001440 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 6a01
0001460 e1d6 fbdf d3c5 fff3 ff7f ffff ffff f9ff
0001500 7fff 5ff7 bf5f 87ff ff8d f7ff ffff 4d0b
0001520 e5ff adf9 0000 0000 0000 0000 0100 d66a
0001540 dfe1 c5fb f3d3 7fff ffff ffff ffff fff9

[tortfeaser]

Nope, 12v didn't work, swapping A and B didn't work. The od -x command did nothing. My board is the same as art0 posted above, see the pic below.

As I understand a few manuals (eg https://www.zodiac-poolcare.co.uk/medias/product/EN_MANUAL_Tri%20Expert%20LS_01-2018_D_H0493600.PDF) the 15v is needed to be able to use some automatic pool covers (chlorine output reduced when cover is on). So I'm reluctant to put 15v across the RS485 terminals. I might get brave later.

[Kranzy]

I’m not sure it’s worth jumping the 15v and damage the board.

[art0]

In my unit when powercycling the unit I have this firmware: TRi SERIES V3.04 OCT 2014 When I got to EXT CONTROLLER I have only one option to choose EOS/PENTAIR

I get the feeling that other geeks in this issue have different firmware versions and options in EXT CONTROLLER?

[tortfeaser]

This doc, for a predecessor project to the nodejs-poolController one suggests anything between 5v and 15v is acceptable: https://github.com/tagyoureit/nodejs-Pentair/files/590407/Pentair_Pool-ZODIAC-Tri.pdf

I can't make the nodejs-poolController give me any results either. Frustrating.

[tortfeaser]

@art0 My firmware is v2.03 from April 2011. I have three controller options, eos/pentair, jandy rev k and jandy rev l/m. I used the latter, given @sfeakes tip.

[art0]

At @tortfeaser does it say "TRi SERIES"? strange that version that is V3.03 has less option of external controllers. Have you tried with Nodejs-poolController and EOS?

[tortfeaser]

@art0, yes, says TRi SERIES, V2.03 APR 2011. I tried nodejs-poolController. No result. I didn't know about EOS, I'll look that up. I'm thinking I should get something from the RS485 stream. I'll check wiring again and maybe try a different RS485 adaptor.

[art0]

I am confused with the protocols and brands. Maybe this is something for @sfeakes to clarify. To my understanding the Zodiac boxes can do the following remote controllers

Aqualink Tri 
Jandy Rev L/M
Jandy Rev K
EOS/PENTAIR

AquapureD runs Jandy Rev L/M and the nodejs-poolController runs Pentair that is also Jandy?

Can anyone bring some light? I guess one thing is the "discovery" process and the other is the commands?

I fail to understand why @tortfeaser firmware that is from 2011 supports more types of controllers (v2.03 April 2011) that (v3.03 October 2014). My unit is labelled as Dual-Link Tri-Expert.

It is clear that "noise" is part of the strategy of vendors. I am totally displeased with how ORP is used in the Zodiac and that is why I want to control the SWG directly myself.

[sfeakes]

@art0 My firmware is v2.03 from April 2011. I have three controller options, eos/pentair, jandy rev k and jandy rev l/m. I used the latter, given @sfeakes tip.

One thing to note. ALL Jandy & Pentair protocols are the same for a SWG. (But they are different for other devices). Jandy in their infinite wisdom decided to block any SWG that's not Jandy on rev L and above. So once the controller and SWG start communicating, the SWG sends it's Information (rev / manufacturer etc), if a Jandy control panel sees it's not a Jandy SWG it will block any future SWG access. So all those different settings are simply telling the SWG to send a fake identifier so a Jandy control panel doesn't block communicating with a SWG. Since none of the software here does the same it really shouldn't matter.

However the above it to the best of my knowledge, after testing a few SWG. There is no documentation on this stuff and neither Jandy or Pentair will give it out. That's why I say use Jandy rev l/m. It shouldn't matter, but I can assure you that Aquapure & the above mentioned Node JS implementation both are designed / tested around how that protocol works.

[sfeakes]

Protocol Information. Jandy and Pentair are the only protocols I've looked at and AqualinkD / Aquapure understand both, also any control panel from either manufacturer from around 2010 or newer will also understand both. (Zodiac is Jandy to the best of my knowledge)

• The "standard" RS protocol for Control Panels & Keypads are different between Jandy & Pentair.

• Variable Speed Pumps from any manufacturer usually follow the Pentair protocol. (except one line of Jandy pumps.)

• SWG from all manufactures follow the Jandy Protocol. (I've never seen a SWG that uses Pentair protocol)

• All other devices usually follow that manufacturer protocol. Heaters / Keypads / Chemical readers, etc.

Few other notes This is why when you read over that NodeJS project that's designed for Pentair you'll see is states that SWG uses a different protocol. (It's the Jandy protocol, they just haven't figured that out yet). Also when using that project, completely ignore the first page when it states look for **ffff 00ff a5ff**, you will never see that since it's part of the Pentair protocol, and not part of the Jandy protocol.

Since some of you have tried both Aquapure and the NodeJS project and neither work for the TRi, I think it's now down to having to work out how the TRi detects a RS485 connection and faking that. Aquapure will fake the software part, (I assume that NodeJS project does as well) but there is obviously something else now we need to figure out.

[art0]

In the Jandy (& Pentair) protocol, the master RS485 device sends a Probe to a specific ID, and if a device at that ID is alive, with sends an ACK, after that, communication can start and things get more detailed and controlled. On Jandy the maser is fixed at device ID 0x00 and a SWG fixed at 0x50. Pentair the master ID is a bit different. So you can see that Aquapure is sending the "Probe" and not getting any reply (or anything at all on the RS485).

In HEX command above, the 4th byte 0x50 is the address the probe is sent to (ie sent to SWG). Unless you see some other information coming back / being listed, then the SWG is not replying or doesn't understand the "probe" packet.

I'd play with the Jandy protocol settings on the SWG. Until you get some form of reply from the SWG you can't go much further.

@sfeakes My Zodiac Tri-Expert

only shows EOS/Pentair in the EXT CONTROLLER menu. What is the master/slave ID in this scenario?

This was an artifact of the Zodiac scroll-down/up menu. Using the arrow keys shows all the options.

AquapureD should act as RS485 master? and Zodiac SWG as slave?

[sfeakes]

@art0 Master ID = 0x00, Slave ID = 0x50

Aquapure = Master

[DutchForce75]

I managed to get my newly bought pcb for the Zodiac Tri with version 3.03 (from memory) working with Jandy Rev L/M protocol. I wrote my own python scripts based on various sources on the internet, probably the code used here as well. It also worked on a previous board I owned, with version 2.x

Just using the a/b wires didn't do the trick, and after I inspected the pcb I found out that the connectors on the PSU board lead to a Max481 chip, and should be powered since they aren't by default. The datasheets for the Max481 chip said it should be powered by 5v, and after applying that worked using Slave ID 0x50.

Just wondering if anyone ever managed to read pH and ORP values from this board?

[Kranzy]

I managed to get my newly bought pcb for the Zodiac Tri with version 3.03 (from memory) working with Jandy Rev L/M protocol. I wrote my own python scripts based on various sources on the internet, probably the code used here as well. It also worked on a previous board I owned, with version 2.x Just using the a/b wires didn't do the trick, and after I inspected the pcb I found out that the connectors on the PSU board lead to a Max481 chip, and should be powered since they aren't by default. The datasheets for the Max481 chip said it should be powered by 5v, and after applying that worked using Slave ID 0x50. Just wondering if anyone ever managed to read pH and ORP values from this board?

@DutchForce75 Would you mind sharing your code and a wiring diagram for how you have connected to the system? I'm assuming that you don't have a controller in the system and you are interacting directly with the SWG? Good to hear others have had success in this.

[DutchForce75]

@Kranzy: Sure, but I have to warn you, I am an amateur programmer and used GitHub for publishing for the first time : https://github.com/DutchForce75/pyZodiacTri/

[art0]

@DutchForce75 and @Kranzy, Sounds like great news! So the problem was just the voltage? Sounds strange that applying 9V to the "POS" will not trigger a response.

Can you share the RS debug too? Will be nice to see the protocol back and forth.

Also my unit has firmware 3.03 but i can only see "EOS/PENTAIR" option. What options do you get?