replace rusty hard brake lines to rear

[tewhalen]

• [x] dry fit to front
• [x] torque to spec?
• [x] attach to fixed points with cable ties i guess

[tewhalen]

The hard lines from the engine bay connection all the way to the rear calipers need to be replaced, as they're corroded and unreliable. To do this job properly, the lines need to be routed over the fuel tank (and apparently it's difficult to do this job without moving the rear subframe).

Brake hard lines are made of nickel/copper now, and they're bent by hand like copper plumbing. Also, you've got to get a flaring tool to attach the connectors. This sounds like a nightmare. Another option is this set from Chase Bays which costs $220 and means you don't need to do all that bending and flaring (which can go wrong in lots of ways).

Properly doing this job also means getting the brake line up around the fuel tank, which means possibly removing the fuel tank.

Removing the fuel tank means removing the rear seat and the exhaust and the driveshaft (see r3vlimited thread). Removing the driveshaft means getting up really close to the transmission mount point (see #36). This is troubling. But, potentially, this is good news? Since we'd be in there, we could replace the guibo (which is a flexible rubber disc that reduces drivetrain vibration) and we could inspect/replace the driveshaft bearing (which also reduces vibration) and this might extend the life of our precarious transmission mount? OTOH, if we've got an idea to actually repair (#36) the transmission mount bracket, we're probably going to have to do all this anyway?

[tewhalen]

Will also need to flush/bleed the brakes after this is done. Consider a kit ($65).