Quality rating in gym's

[brendanheywood]

I would like to make rating quality in gyms really easy, the obvious candidate is a star rating system instead of the 7 word based ratings. I don't see this as a hard challenge as the rating of gym routes don't need to correlate in any way at all to the ratings of routes outside - I don't want to touch anything outside of gyms.

The 7 word based rating gets mapped in some way into a 3 star system, so if we went with a 3 star system then this mapping should be well understood and we can just use it directly without the mapping.

But if we go down the more normal 5 star rating system used almost everywhere, mobile apps, hotels, movies etc then I think we'd get more consistent feedback by users, especially given that gym users often are new to climbing and don't have any context of the 0-3 star system used predominantly on outside routes (at least in aus?)

I've just had a look into the scores in the DB and I think the 5 star rating system would actually fit exactly over the 7 words one but with 'average' and 'very good' removed:

 -10 Crap          *
  -5 Don't bother  **
   0 Good          ***
   5 Classic       ****
  10 Mega classic  *****

So I think implementing 5 stars would be super simple on the ticking side, and because it is just a rebrand of the existing levels with the same scores we should be able to get a combined score out using the same existing process and convert that back into a 5 star rating for display without too much work.

Another option is to simply have a thumbs up or thumbs down rating like youtube, and instead of showing an average rating you show a proportional rating, eg 72% thumbs up. This one has quite a lot of merit in the gym setting too.

Regardless of which way we go I don't think we need to over think it, as the impact is quite low as we only have one real gym, the turn over of gym routes is high, so any of kilter ratings will be not important within a month, and we can rejig the mapping easily and evolve it. Would want Chris's feedback on this

[scd]

if we are only touching in the gym then this is ok. Let's just do a mapping, any mapping. The one you suggest is fine.

[brendanheywood]

Ok, what about if we search across both artificial and outside, would we show each route using it's own way?

[scd]

We don't store quality ratings on routes, but a conversion to stars which includes stars from publishers.

This means we will be converting stars to stars in a gym???

[lordyavin]

Btw: why isn't it possible to log second ascends? Of course it is harder than top rope and easier than leading.

[brendanheywood]

@lordyavin do you want to explain that a bit more? Do you want to be able to 'second' a climb in a gym? Unless a gym has multipitch I'm not sure what this would mean?

[lordyavin]

Sorry for being so brief. I meant the situation where one leads the route and the partner seconds it and has to unclip the quick draws. Of course this is more difficult then just top roping the route because the unclipping consumes power. But it easier than leading because you don't have to be afraid of falling.

[brendanheywood]

And this is in a gym? I've never seen this in a gym due to safety issues, normally the draws are permanent and you pull the rope

[lordyavin]

In the Germany every lower off anchor has to be redundant. If the anchor is redundant and correct used it is no problem to remove all protection while climbing. In most gyms the draws are permanent and you just remove the rope from the draw. But in my clubs gym there are draws in the overhang only. If you want your gear back, you have to remove it while lowering or while seconding.

[brendanheywood]

Ok so our assumption that seconding doesn't make sense in a gym is just not always correct. I'm a little hesitant to add it back for all gyms, perhaps we need a bit of config for each gym to say what tick types make sense. I'm going to split this off into a new issue #1631

[Drazhar]

This is the topic where my question fits the most I think:

Why not change the rating system for natural also in just a star system? Most people I know are confused what word means what rating. A simple 0-3 Star would be easier. Or if this is hard to do afterwards (now), just add the star rating to the quality dropdown if you tick multiple routes. The same as they are of you log a single route. This should give the people a better understanding what quality results in what star rating.

[brendanheywood]

@Drazhar I've just done that, this is live right now:

I think I'll close this issue completely