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Add ranking tick shift offsets to article template data for CPR article #2503

Closed brendanheywood closed 7 years ago

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

https://www.thecrag.com/article/TickTypes

scd commented 7 years ago

@brendanheywood I think we discussed creating a separate article for this. I have created a template with tick shift template date here:

https://dev.thecrag.com/article/CPR

Do you have thoughts on what should go in it. I have not included the gradeFactor as yet.

The tick shifts are in the internal rating system. We could convert to particular grades, but grades are not necessarily evenly distributed.

Anyway I will had it over to you for a bit. Please let me know what else you need from the backend.

rouletout commented 7 years ago

this link doesn’t work for me…

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

@scd please add the grades data to the tick shift article

scd commented 7 years ago

done and pushed

scd commented 7 years ago

try again. I had added the extra data to the CPR template. Extra data should now be on both CPR and TickTypes

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

Ok what does everything think of this concept. That's live data in the article and with a performance grade picked to target a typical intermediate climber for each style:

https://dev.thecrag.com/article/CPR

image

rouletout commented 7 years ago

With some explanation in the caption it should work - can we use a different color for flash?

On 27 Jan 2017, at 04:24, Brendan Heywood notifications@github.com wrote:

Ok what does everything think of this concept. That's live data in the article and with a performance grade picked to target a typical intermediate climber for each style:

https://dev.thecrag.com/article/CPR https://dev.thecrag.com/article/CPR https://cloud.githubusercontent.com/assets/187449/22369324/4aceaf94-e4df-11e6-80b0-9e9233f96844.png — You are receiving this because you commented. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub https://github.com/theCrag/website/issues/2503#issuecomment-275644917, or mute the thread https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/ASRnSBWZqOjIpMQL-03CkMn9EaqnXA3iks5rWdQGgaJpZM4LaiTL.

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scd commented 7 years ago

I really like this.

I updated the article so that the top of the pink point is the same difficulty level for both sport and trad. The slider still visually aligns on red point but there is an additional concept of being able to directly compare where you should be onsighting for sport vs trad.

I also reviewed the grade widths we used for tick shift. This is something I had forgotten to do after we restricted the stats to be in a specific grade range. Also I may have just made a mistake with the boulder widths. Anyway I have updated these. The tangible change is to boulder which has much wider widths (I had it as 9 internal grade points but it should have been 17). Sorry for this big mistake.

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

Just swashed a css bug which made the background tick type bars not overlay exactly where they should.

can we use a different color for flash?

sure, gimme a color and I'll swap it out. If there is room I'll also add in the icons, I'd preferably like to get a set of consistent colors to match tick types and use them across the site, but that is a secondary concern.

I updated the article so that the top of the pink point is the same difficulty level for both sport and trad.

If we were to compare trad to sport directly, just thinking apples-to-apples it's more useful to line up the right side of pink point where we know that these two are exactly equivalent. eg:

image

This is on dev but not committed yet, I much prefer this. It clearly shows that onsighting a trad route is harder than onsighting a sport route at the same grade (which btw is interesting in it's own right as at least the ewbank by definition is supposed to be an onsight grade)

scd commented 7 years ago

Yup better. Fyi I am most of the way through the release. Site updated, and running through scripts. Out to lunch now

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

@scd this half done article is now in prod, I was hoping to get this finalized and all the text brought over before the release.

I've just renamed it to .CPR for the time being and we will hot fix later

scd commented 7 years ago

yup I had on my list of things to do to put a hotfix on this.

rouletout commented 7 years ago

Use something greenish or the color we use for trad on crag level - I would just like to avoid that we have 2 times the same color

scd commented 7 years ago

@brendanheywood, I have updated the CPR article with @rouletout google doc content. All figures and graphs are dynamically created from our CPR configuration and/or embeds.

https://dev.thecrag.com/article/cpr

I have created an embed for the ranking leaderboard.

Please pull from repo and have a look. Note that the tick shifts I am using are not the original ones but the new ones based on the more recent analysis. Give the status of this recent analysis is incomplete I might revert these figures back. I will make a decision shortly.

I have made a few additions to the article.

I think this article is ready to go for the release

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

looks great overall :)

Most of these bits below are fine polish and nice to have but not critical:

scd commented 7 years ago

I have made most of these updates.

I think flash should be a different color as it clashes with intermediate band color. This makes the ticck shift grade slider a little bit confusing with two very similar colors with total different meanings.

Also I am having troubles with the vertical scrolling the embedded ranking. It is always on, no mater what height we choose. We fixed this for the timeline by removing the css. I don't know if this is the problem, but we cannot remove the css for the grade slider. So the best I can do at the moment is to force the vertical slider off, which is not ideal.

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

Also I am having troubles with the vertical scrolling the embedded ranking.

I fixed this last night, this was possibly what you may have lost in the merge

scd commented 7 years ago

Is there anything else to do here?

brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

I think only thing is to re-order the articles, TickTypes should be second after LoggingAscents, as it's more important than the cpr stuff

scd commented 7 years ago

So we don't tread on each others toes. Do you want me to do this?

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On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 1:07 PM, Brendan Heywood notifications@github.com wrote:

I think only thing is to re-order the articles, TickTypes should be second after LoggingAscents, as it's more important than the cpr stuff

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brendanheywood commented 7 years ago

You please

scd commented 7 years ago

done