Hi all! In the release from June 2023, you fixed issue #4195 (Swedish grades were slightly off in relation to others). However, not all problems are solved: While route grades are mapped correctly, some ascents are both represented incorrectly in grade pyramids and when using route filters; however, at the same time, other ascents are mapped correctly.
To illustrate the problems, let me guide you through some issues I discovered on my profile on theCrag:
Problem 1: Grade pyramids show ascents under wrong grade
The grade pyramid for my Trad climbs shows three ascents for French 7b+. When clicking on that bar, all three notable ascents are SWE 8-. But even within theCrag's internal mapping, a SWE 8- is not a FR 7b+ but a FR 7a+/7b (see the "Notable Ascents" section, where two of these ascents are shown). Thus, all three ascents should be represented by the 7b-bar.
The same goes for other historical ascents: The SWE 7+ represented by the 7a+ bar is actually a 7a etc.
The "Notable Ascents" section shows two of the ascents with the correct corresponding French grade:
Problem 2: When filtering ascents, some ascents are being mapped correctly while others are being mapped wrong.
When I filter my trad ascents using the French grading system, and select only ascents that are 7a (using the ascent filter), the query returns some routes that are graded as SWE 7 (which actually is 6c+). But the query doesn't return all my ascents with grade SWE 7. It seems to me that for some routes, a SWE 7 corresponds with a 6c+ (which is correct) while for others, the same grade corresponds with a 7a.
At first, I thought the issue could be explained by the date of the ascent (when before the system release, it's still mapped to 7a, after the system release, it's 6c+). But that's not the case: There is at least one ascent of a SWE 7 that happened before June 2023 (and got logged at that time) but it's mapped as a FR 6c+. And filtering for UIAA doesn't help, either: Querying for UIAA 8- returns exactly the same routes as 6c+ does (plus a few extra, because some SWE 7- are then also considered 6c+).
In fact, even when filtering my ascents using the Swedish grading system in the ascent filter and only selecting 7s, I get some routes with grade 7- in there. And vice versa, if I use both ascent and route filters and narrow both those to only a Swedish 7, I don't get all ascents with a SWE 7 (but some with SWE 7-).
Thus, it seems to me that the grading conversion is inconsistent. Any route with the grade of SWE 7 should always be mapped to the same grade(s) (and preferably, the correct one).
Hi all! In the release from June 2023, you fixed issue #4195 (Swedish grades were slightly off in relation to others). However, not all problems are solved: While route grades are mapped correctly, some ascents are both represented incorrectly in grade pyramids and when using route filters; however, at the same time, other ascents are mapped correctly.
To illustrate the problems, let me guide you through some issues I discovered on my profile on theCrag:
Problem 1: Grade pyramids show ascents under wrong grade
The grade pyramid for my Trad climbs shows three ascents for French 7b+. When clicking on that bar, all three notable ascents are
SWE 8-
. But even within theCrag's internal mapping, aSWE 8-
is not aFR 7b+
but aFR 7a+/7b
(see the "Notable Ascents" section, where two of these ascents are shown). Thus, all three ascents should be represented by the 7b-bar.The same goes for other historical ascents: The
SWE 7+
represented by the 7a+ bar is actually a 7a etc.The "Notable Ascents" section shows two of the ascents with the correct corresponding French grade:
Problem 2: When filtering ascents, some ascents are being mapped correctly while others are being mapped wrong.
When I filter my trad ascents using the French grading system, and select only ascents that are 7a (using the ascent filter), the query returns some routes that are graded as
SWE 7
(which actually is 6c+). But the query doesn't return all my ascents with gradeSWE 7
. It seems to me that for some routes, aSWE 7
corresponds with a 6c+ (which is correct) while for others, the same grade corresponds with a 7a.At first, I thought the issue could be explained by the date of the ascent (when before the system release, it's still mapped to 7a, after the system release, it's 6c+). But that's not the case: There is at least one ascent of a
SWE 7
that happened before June 2023 (and got logged at that time) but it's mapped as aFR 6c+
. And filtering for UIAA doesn't help, either: Querying forUIAA 8-
returns exactly the same routes as 6c+ does (plus a few extra, because someSWE 7-
are then also considered 6c+).In fact, even when filtering my ascents using the Swedish grading system in the ascent filter and only selecting 7s, I get some routes with grade 7- in there. And vice versa, if I use both ascent and route filters and narrow both those to only a Swedish 7, I don't get all ascents with a
SWE 7
(but some withSWE 7-
).Thus, it seems to me that the grading conversion is inconsistent. Any route with the grade of
SWE 7
should always be mapped to the same grade(s) (and preferably, the correct one).