French grades for sport routes under SWE context

[morbult]

I would like thecrag to use French grades for sport routes and sport crags under the SWE grade context.

As far as I know all sport routes in Sweden are graded using French grades, and all gyms use French grades for rope climbing. I have guide books of three areas in Sweden (Göteborg, Stockholm and Mälardalen) and they all use French for sport routes. Two of them even use it for trad routes and only write the Swedish grade in parentheses. See evidence at the end. All in all, I'd say most climbers here are much more familiar with French grades than Swedish grades, and many sport climbers are probably not accustomed to the Swedish grading scale at all, which is why I think it's not user friendly to have sport crags on thecrag displaying grade summaries in Swedish grades. Of course, there are a lot of all-trad areas and mainly-trad areas which I still think should be displaying grade summaries in Swedish grades on thecrag, because Swedish grades are used for trad and mixed.

thecrag currently does not expect French grades for sport routes under the SWE context, which means their grade will be displayed as either of these two cases, both of which look quite messy

• FR:5c, FR:5c+, FR:6a etc. (keeping the route's grade context SWE)
• {FR} 5c, {FR} 5c+, {FR} 6a etc. (changing the route's grade context to FR)

Expected outcome

• Grade summary of an area with SWE grade context to use French grades if the majority of the routes in that area are sport routes, otherwise use Swedish grades.
• Sport route grades in an area with SWE grade context to be displayed as 5c, 5c+, 6a etc.

Evidence for sport routes in Sweden using French grades

Göteborg guide: French grades for sport routes, Swedish grades for trad and mixed.

Stockholm guide: French grades for all routes, Swedish grades in parentheses for trad and mixed routes. 53 and 54 are sport, 55 is trad.

Mälardalen guide: French grades for all routes, Swedish grades in parentheses for trad and mixed routes.

Are there counterexamples or is this a general rule for all of Sweden? I don't know since I haven't climbed in any other parts of the country. I need help from other climbers to confirm or disprove this rule. Please make a comment here if you have experience from other areas of Sweden.

[fritz-raphael]

I'd like to support this case: I mainly climb in the south of Sweden (different areas from @morbult), and for Sport routes, we always use the French system. For Trad and Mixed, it's mostly Swedish, but can also be a mixture.

In fact, the people I climb with rarely know the Swedish grading system. French is the lingua franca. So IMHO, having French as the grade context in Sweden makes sense as more people will be able to intuitively understand the grade summaries of a given crag.

[scd]

It sounds like the Swedish grade was a mistake. We need to find somebody to advocate for the Swedish grade so I can see a two sided argument. These kind of changes are time consuming and as you can see easy to go down the wrong path because the full view was not taken into account.

[lordyavin]

What about just changing the default grade context for Sweden? After that, change the grade context of affected crags if not already inherited from the country.