MyLab-odyssey / ED_BMSdiag

Retrieve battery diagnostic data from your smart electric drive EV.
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Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS #19

Closed vioilio closed 4 years ago

vioilio commented 6 years ago

Hello. My Smart Car EV Electric is giving me codes stored in the BMS: P1D799A - HV battery contactor open due release fault. Ops condition not met.

U01A200, U01A100 and U01A000 - lack of CAN communication with internal control unit with A, B and C cells respectively.

P1614FA -Control unit internal fault initialization unsuccessful.

Car was involved in an accident and airbags were deployed. We have fixed everything but those errors wont clear. Can you please help?

MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Seems to be a communication problem of the BMS board with the three cell supervisory electronic boards (CSE). What is the voltage level of the pack? The CSE boards are feed by the module (á 31 cells) itself and are galvanically separated from the 12V bus. My friend Sonny Dahunsi found a special deactivation input on those CSE boards and maybe this was triggered by the accident? But I suspect the HV voltage(s) to be depleted. What is the status of the HVIL? Is the Pyrofuse repaired?

I am sorry, but without access to the pack and without further measurements this is beyond my abilities!

vioilio commented 6 years ago

Hi. Do you have Viber or whatsup?

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 5:05:50 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Seems to be a communication problem of the BMS board with the three cell supervisory electronic boards (CSE). What is the voltage level of the pack? The CSE boards are feed by the module (á 31 cells) itself and are galvanically separated from the 12V bus. My friend Sonny Dahunsi found a special deactivation input on those CSE boards and maybe this was triggered by the accident? But I suspect the HV voltage(s) to be depleted. What is the status of the HVIL? Is the Pyrofuse repaired?

I am sorry, but without access to the pack and without further measurements this is beyond my abilities!

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Sorry, no other communication channels than this one here! This conversation should be useful also for others: Please tell me the voltage level of the complete pack...

vioilio commented 6 years ago

I have no access to the voltage pack. It says no signal available. Look at this picture [Image]

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 5:25:21 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Sorry, no other communication channels than this one here! This conversation should be useful also for others: Please tell me the voltage level of the complete pack...

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

I can only tell you what Sonny did with his "dead" voltage pack:

Initially he had the same fault codes. initial bms fault code He removed the battery from the car and opened it up. Due to the HV contactors you can't access the terminals (plus/minus) from the outside. Engaging the contactors is overridden by the BMS safety mechanism. All cells were at about 1V and he bravely tried to charge them with a very low current (about 300 - 350 mA) and closely monitored the process. Only one cell was really bad and the other ones reached acceptable levels. Then the CSE boards had enough power to function and the BMS was able to communicate with them. Now he managed to reset the fault codes, but the defective cell prevented to clear the internal fault status within the BMS and the HV contactors still could not be engaged :(

So for further progress you have to remove the pack and open it up... sam_0328

vioilio commented 6 years ago

I really appreciate all your help. I will remove the battery today. Can you please tell me how to actually charge it? Should i charge the complete battery or i should charge cell by cell. Can you guide me in this process?

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:02:35 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

I can only tell you what Sonny did with his "dead" voltage pack:

Initially he had the same fault codes. [initial bms fault code]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45737567-7ab39480-bbee-11e8-9aac-2a1667da76b9.JPG He removed the battery from the car and opened it up. Due to the HV contactors you can't access the terminals (plus/minus) from the outside. Engaging the contactors is overridden by the BMS safety mechanism. All cells were at about 1V and he bravely tried to charge them with a very low current (about 300 - 350 mA) and closely monitored the process. Only one cell was really bad and the other ones reached acceptable levels. Then the CSE boards had enough power to function and the BMS was able to communicate with them. Now he managed to reset the fault codes, but the defective cell prevented to clear the internal fault status within the BMS and the HV contactors still could not be engaged :(

So for further progress you have to remove the pack and open it up... [sam_0328]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45739006-227e9180-bbf2-11e8-94d5-d1e696e1c484.JPG

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vioilio commented 6 years ago

Can you tell me how to charge the battery? Im only getting 30v from one side to the other? [Image]

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From: Chanko Penchev chankopenchev@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 1:39:00 PM To: Chanko Penchev Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Can you show me where is the + and where the - on each cell? [Image]

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From: Chanko Penchev chankopenchev@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 7:03:08 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

I really appreciate all your help. I will remove the battery today. Can you please tell me how to actually charge it? Should i charge the complete battery or i should charge cell by cell. Can you guide me in this process?

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:02:35 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

I can only tell you what Sonny did with his "dead" voltage pack:

Initially he had the same fault codes. [initial bms fault code]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45737567-7ab39480-bbee-11e8-9aac-2a1667da76b9.JPG He removed the battery from the car and opened it up. Due to the HV contactors you can't access the terminals (plus/minus) from the outside. Engaging the contactors is overridden by the BMS safety mechanism. All cells were at about 1V and he bravely tried to charge them with a very low current (about 300 - 350 mA) and closely monitored the process. Only one cell was really bad and the other ones reached acceptable levels. Then the CSE boards had enough power to function and the BMS was able to communicate with them. Now he managed to reset the fault codes, but the defective cell prevented to clear the internal fault status within the BMS and the HV contactors still could not be engaged :(

So for further progress you have to remove the pack and open it up... [sam_0328]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45739006-227e9180-bbf2-11e8-94d5-d1e696e1c484.JPG

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vioilio commented 6 years ago

Can you tell me how to charge the battery or the individual cells? Im only getting 30v from the one side to the other. [Image]

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:02:35 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

I can only tell you what Sonny did with his "dead" voltage pack:

Initially he had the same fault codes. [initial bms fault code]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45737567-7ab39480-bbee-11e8-9aac-2a1667da76b9.JPG He removed the battery from the car and opened it up. Due to the HV contactors you can't access the terminals (plus/minus) from the outside. Engaging the contactors is overridden by the BMS safety mechanism. All cells were at about 1V and he bravely tried to charge them with a very low current (about 300 - 350 mA) and closely monitored the process. Only one cell was really bad and the other ones reached acceptable levels. Then the CSE boards had enough power to function and the BMS was able to communicate with them. Now he managed to reset the fault codes, but the defective cell prevented to clear the internal fault status within the BMS and the HV contactors still could not be engaged :(

So for further progress you have to remove the pack and open it up... [sam_0328]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45739006-227e9180-bbf2-11e8-94d5-d1e696e1c484.JPG

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vioilio commented 6 years ago

Also can you show me on the picture where are the plus and minus terminals on each cell so i can charge them individually?

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:02:35 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

I can only tell you what Sonny did with his "dead" voltage pack:

Initially he had the same fault codes. [initial bms fault code]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45737567-7ab39480-bbee-11e8-9aac-2a1667da76b9.JPG He removed the battery from the car and opened it up. Due to the HV contactors you can't access the terminals (plus/minus) from the outside. Engaging the contactors is overridden by the BMS safety mechanism. All cells were at about 1V and he bravely tried to charge them with a very low current (about 300 - 350 mA) and closely monitored the process. Only one cell was really bad and the other ones reached acceptable levels. Then the CSE boards had enough power to function and the BMS was able to communicate with them. Now he managed to reset the fault codes, but the defective cell prevented to clear the internal fault status within the BMS and the HV contactors still could not be engaged :(

So for further progress you have to remove the pack and open it up... [sam_0328]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45739006-227e9180-bbf2-11e8-94d5-d1e696e1c484.JPG

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Charging a "dead" Li-Ion cell is really dangerous! You have to monitor the current carefully and start with an even lower current (about 50mA) for a first test. See here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/reviving-a-0v-lithium-ion-battery/

Sonny did charge the pack completely with a 400V DC source set to 350mA max. The cells are connected in series, so you need that voltage at least. His pack hat about 110V initally (when I remember correctly).

With two lab dc power supplies in series you could test the current drain first. Test the current limiting on an resistor (low value) and an ampmeter first. Kown your setup and work carefully!

I will try to find a good picture to give you insight to the cell contacts. The foil cable is very sensitive and contains a thermocouple under each "dot" - DO NOT break them! Everything is FRAGILE there!!!

vioilio commented 6 years ago

Can i just try to charge each cell individually while there are on the pack?

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:17:34 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Charging a "dead" Li-Ion cell is really dangerous! You have to monitor the current carefully and start with an even lower current (about 50mA) for a first test. See here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/reviving-a-0v-lithium-ion-battery/

Sonny did charge the pack completely with a 400V DC source set to 350mA max. The cells are connected in series, so you need that voltage at least. His pack hat about 110V initally (when I remember correctly).

With two lab dc power supplies in series you could test the current drain first. Test the current limiting on an resistor (low value) and an ampmeter first. Kown your setup and work carefully!

I will try to find a good picture to give you insight to the cell contacts. The foil cable is very sensitive and contains a thermocouple under each "dot" - DO NOT break them! Everything is FRAGILE there!!!

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

I think this would work, as long as you get a good contact to the poles. The HEA50 cells look like this and are connected in series by busbar clamps. Try to measure the cell voltages of one of the three modules and sum them up and verify with the voltage of that module (31 cells).

MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Also see this picture of the contacts normally covered by the cooling loops.

vioilio commented 6 years ago

Can you point me the exact location of the + and - on each cell? The exact points to which i will connect the charger. I also bought this charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ1ZZ7Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amazon.com: SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 AC/DC Dual Power Professional LiPo Battery Balance Charger/Discharger: Toys & Gameshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ1ZZ7Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Buy SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 AC/DC Dual Power Professional LiPo Battery Balance Charger/Discharger: Office Products - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases www.amazon.com

Do you think it will work?


From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 9:00 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Also see this picture of the contactshttp://www.dnn.de/var/storage/images/dnn/region/region-news/daimler-stuttgart-will-stueck-vom-kamenzer-kuchen-abhaben/517831838-1-ger-DE/Daimler-Stuttgart-will-Stueck-vom-Kamenzer-Kuchen-abhaben_big_teaser_article.jpg normally covered by the cooling loops.

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Theoretically - yes, but you are dealing with 51Ah capacity per cell and this will take way to long. Also getting a stable contact is very difficult on the individual cells! Each module (á 31) has a positive an negative terminal to interconnect to the other module(s). Test the polarity there and disconnect one from the other two modules. Get a lab dc source like this to charge one module to about 100V resulting in about 3.2V per cell. The CSE should definitely work with with cell voltages of 3V and above (>= 93V on a module). Do you have a good multimeter for verifying the current?

EDIT: by the way, Sonny did recover the pack from 10V across all three modules (just checked old conversation). It is worth a try - be careful!

vioilio commented 6 years ago

I have multimeter but I do not have a charger. I only have have the one that I showed from amazon you and also 12v 2amp charger. What is your suggestion? How should I proceed?


From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 9:22 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Theoretically - yes, but you are dealing with 51Ah capacity per cell and this will take way to long. Also getting a stable contact is very difficult on the individual cells! Each module (á 31) has a positive an negative terminal to interconnect to the other module(s). Test the polarity there and disconnect one from the other two modules. Get a lab dc source like thishttps://www.amazon.com/Precision-0-100V-Adjustable-Digital-Regulated/dp/B01831QRFY to charge one module to about 100V resulting in about 3.2V per cell. The CSE should definitely work with with cell voltages of 3V and above (>= 93V on a module). Do you have a good multimeter for verifying the current?

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Are you familiar with the charger (from amazon)? Get uses to it and its menu system. Test charging on another cell (e.g. from RC toy).

When you start using this charger, you have to charge all cells individually! This is not a good idea! You can use my previous method for each module or get / make a supply with a even higher voltage (Sonny charged to 327V in total). BTW: where are you located? Can someone else help?

I will get you the polarity picture tomorrow...

vioilio commented 6 years ago

Not familiar with it. I'm located in USA Delaware state. What was your method? How can I make a supply so i can charge each module to 110v?


From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 9:50 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Are you familiar with the charger (from amazon)? Get uses to it and its menu system. Test charging on another cell (e.g. from RC toy).

When you start using this charger, you have to charge all cells individually! This is not a good idea! You can use my previous method for each module or get / make a supply with a even higher voltage (Sonny charged to 327V in total). BTW: where are you located? Can someone else help?

I will get you the polarity picture tomorrow...

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Do you know someone with good electronic skills and some equipment? I think you should get some help. I recommend a laboratory power supply with about 100V and constant current mode (adjustable) like in the link https://www.amazon.com/Precision-0-100V-Adjustable-Digital-Regulated/dp/B01831QRFY or this one (1A max): https://www.amazon.com/Precision-0-100V-Adjustable-Digital-Regulated/dp/B01N4W33EF

vioilio commented 6 years ago

So best way would be to charge it at 100v 1amp for 50 hours module by module. I disconect the bus lines and separate each module. Then i connect and charge each module.

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 6:14:13 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Do you know someone with good electronic skills and some equipment? I think you should get some help. I recommend a laboratory power supply with about 100V and constant current mode (adjustable) like in the link https://www.amazon.com/Precision-0-100V-Adjustable-Digital-Regulated/dp/B01831QRFY or this one (1A max): https://www.amazon.com/Precision-0-100V-Adjustable-Digital-Regulated/dp/B01N4W33EF

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

NO, not 1 A at the beginning! Start with <20 mA first for 1min and monitor the voltage levels. When they are rising, slightly get the current up to 50 mA and then carefully increase when the cell voltage is over 2.2 V. Please don't use currents > 350mA before you reach the 2.8V on ALL cells! This is really tricky and you should know what you are doing! Contact someone who is familiar in reviving run down cells - maybe someone of https://www.diyelectriccar.com or https://www.eevblog.com is around your Delaware location?

Watch the video in my link (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/reviving-a-0v-lithium-ion-battery/) closely and think of the energy about 20 times higher in one HEA-50 (the cell in the E18-1 Smart battery)!

vioilio commented 6 years ago

It is very hard to find 100v power supply that has adjustable current. Do you think I can use 60v power supply? I can buy 2 of them and adjust them to 50v and around 20mA each. Then I will connect them in series and start the process. Once i reach 2.8V on each cell I can switch to one power supply of 100v @1A. Do you think this will work or no?

Take a look at this.

https://www.amazon.com/Haitronic-HPS605D-Adjustable-Switching-Alligator/dp/B072M79X96/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072M79X96&pd_rd_r=5986af39-bcc8-11e8-9069-65b0c08f01f2&pd_rd_w=ySRPy&pd_rd_wg=qN63B&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=PFCH2RN3DG1NEM8M6GAE&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=PFCH2RN3DG1NEM8M6GAE


From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2018 7:39 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

NO, not 1 A at the beginning! Start with <20 mA first for 1min and monitor the voltage levels. When they are rising, slightly get the current up to 50 mA and then carefully increase when the cell voltage is over 2.2 V. Please don't use currents > 350mA before you reach the 2.8V on ALL cells! This is really tricky and you should know what you are doing! Contact someone who is familiar in reviving run down cells - maybe someone of https://www.diyelectriccar.com or https://www.eevblog.com is around your Delaware location?

Watch the video in my link (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/reviving-a-0v-lithium-ion-battery/) closely and think of the energy about 20 times higher in one HEA-50 (the cell in the E18-1 Smart battery)!

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Connecting two supplies in series will work - but is not the best idea: when one supply is reaching the current limit, it will reduce / shutdown the voltage to zero. The other one is still active unless it will see the same exact current limit. In addition the units must have a floating output not tight to ground (from mains). Normally DC lab power supplies have this "feature".

Very good ones like from Keysight or other brand companies have a auto tracking feature, if you connect the units in series, but they are very pricy!

Take a look here for further reading: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/connecting-2-power-supplies-in-series-for-2-sided-voltage/msg1387022/#msg1387022>

vioilio commented 6 years ago

My idea is to set both supplies to 50v and 10mA. This will give me total of 100v and 10mA. I will conect to the module of 31 cells and this should be enough to get the cells to 2.8V. Once this is done and all 31 cells have 2.8V in them I will connect the other power supply of 100v 1A to the module and charge and monitor the process. Sounds like a plan?


From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2018 2:18 PM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Connecting two supplies in series will work - but is not the best idea: when one supply is reaching the current limit, it will reduce / shutdown the voltage to zero. The other one is still active unless it will see the same exact current limit. In addition the units must have a floating output not tight to ground (from mains). Normally DC lab power supplies have this "feature".

Very good ones like from Keysight or other brand companies have a auto tracking feature, if you connect the units in series, but they are very pricy!

Take a look here for further reading: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/connecting-2-power-supplies-in-series-for-2-sided-voltage/msg1387022/#msg1387022>https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/connecting-2-power-supplies-in-series-for-2-sided-voltage/msg1387022/#msg1387022%3E

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

You can also do it step by step. First use one supply at about 50 to 60 V and 10 mA to get the individual cell voltage to > 1.5 V. In this case you only have to deal with one current regulation and can concentrate on monitoring the voltage(s) of that module. When everything is going well you can use two supplies and rise the voltage and later the current. Always keep it simple...

vioilio commented 6 years ago

It looks like there is no way to check actual cell voltage without removing the cooling plates and the electronic board. At this point i wont do that. I will just start with 50v and 50mA for 5min. Then i will do 60v 100ma for 5 min. And then i will do 70v 200ma and 80v to 300ma all for 5 min. At the end i will do 100v at 500ma for 5- 10min. After all this will let the pack sit for an hour. Will check the voltage after that and if 90v or more i will do 100v at 1a for about an hour. Is all this correct?

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2018 11:57:24 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

You can also do it step by step. First use one supply at about 50 to 60 V and 10 mA to get the individual cell voltage to > 1.5 V. In this case you only have to deal with one current regulation and can concentrate on monitoring the voltage(s) of that module. When everything is going well you can use two supplies and rise the voltage and later the current. Always keep it simple...

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Getting contact (for multimeter measurement) to the individual cells is really easy when you take off the cover of the CSE board: sam_0335

I will advise you only one more time: BE CAREFUL! setting the current only depends on the conditions you actually see when applying current (as low as possible) for the first time. Please set a current limit and carefully rise the voltage from zero to the desired value first. If you produce an inrush current in the first attempt / contact you will ruin the cell(s). DON'T BE IMPATIENT!!! Findig the right procedure will take time...

BUT it is totally up to you! I made my remarks!

vioilio commented 6 years ago

So where is the other point of contact for cell voltage measurement? Your picture shows a point that can be accessed without taking the CSE cover off. Can you point to me the two spots for the multimeter leads for taking individual cell voltage measurement.

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 4:27:28 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Getting contact (for multimeter measurement) to the individual cells is really easy when you take off the cover of the CSE board: [sam_0335]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45868490-23482c80-bd86-11e8-9438-bc4d1cbccf55.JPG

I will advise you only one more time: BE CAREFUL! setting the current only depends on the conditions you actually see when applying current (as low as possible) for the first time. Please set a current limit and carefully rise the voltage from zero to the desired value first. If you produce an inrush current in the first attempt / contact you will ruin the cell(s). DON'T BE IMPATIENT!!! Findig the right procedure will take time...

BUT it is totally up to you! I made my remarks!

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MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

Sorry my fault. The point is really not covered by the CSE cover. But here you will find the very logical arrangement of 31 cells in series: e18-1 cell arrangement

vioilio commented 6 years ago

[Image]

After initial charge of low voltage low current now I'm charging 2 of the 3 modules. Im applying 100v at 0.2A currently.

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From: MyLab-odyssey notifications@github.com Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 11:12:29 AM To: MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Cc: vioilio; Author Subject: Re: [MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag] Help needed with Smart Car EV BMS (#19)

Sorry my fault. The point is really not covered by the CSE cover. But here you will find the very logical arrangement of 31 cells in series: [e18-1 cell arrangement]https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/14249372/45889708-6a074800-bdc1-11e8-927b-ed39d00b5d01.png

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bhorrock commented 6 years ago

I'd like to express my appreciation to you both for the great information that is appearing in this thread. This is something that MB would never tackle, and for Smart ED 451 owners this is absolutely priceless.

THANK YOU.

MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

@vioilio: Thumbs up and fingers crossed! Please report. Can you please use github via your browser and upload pictures with the editor there? None of your pictures via e-mail response worked?!

@bhorrock: the credit belongs to my dear friend Sonny Dahunsi. He was brave enough to rip off and dig into the battery and hand over all the details. I am pleased to share his insights here - THX Sonny!

MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

The task is to revive the depleted cells and to do this as carefully as possible. Normally the voltage limit of Li-ion is about 2.5V and levels under this limit lead to significant degradation. The voltage slope is really steep in this area and the low currents have to be applied there. I would suggest to increase the current when passing 2.8V (Open Cell Voltage = without current and after settlement) and increase to <= 1A. After passing 3V the current maybe increase further but then monitor the cell temperatures carefully, as the internal resistance maybe significant due to the degradation process. Sonny did find a defective cell not holding the charge and getting "hot" because of this process. The other cells could be charged with 6A but we don't know what is happening when driving currents >100A are used?

Here the OCV diagram: ocv-interpolation_example

MyLab-odyssey commented 6 years ago

@vioilio: any update?! Please tell us about your progress...

nsb002 commented 5 years ago

Hello, I don't know if you can help me and @MBTP with this fault code when the 12V battery dies : HV System → Workshop smart2014-hv_system_workshop

I don't know if you remember us from another post about the CANBUS address to set the departure time? It works well now, we added a Sonoff to start the car remotely and switched to an Arduino Mega 2560 to be able to add some code and functionalities. You probably know how to remove this fault code? I have a Bluetooth OBD II fault reader and it doesn't work at all on the 2014 Smart EV.

Thanks in advance.

MBTP commented 5 years ago

Please help me for resetting message HV System workshop. If I drop 12v battery to low this message appears. I use sonoff remote for programming departure time with Arduino mega. This control is full functionality for programming departure time am and pm automatically

MyLab-odyssey commented 5 years ago

Please fully describe your problem! As far as I understand you get the HV error when the 12V battery is depleted (e.g. due to very low temperatures). Normally the error is due to a timing failure when the HV-contactors get not enough current from the 12V battery and they don't get into the on position in the right time. Recharging the 12V battery will normally clear the fault in the next attempt. What is the voltage of the 12V battery? If you know that the system is well you have to wait at least until the "P" indicator will switch off - lock the car and wait for 5min and then give it another try. The 12V battery may also be damaged and you have to replace it. Is it really healthy? If the failure persists you may have a damaged HV contactor - what is the actual cycle count? - or you have an insulation problem. Please use my tool and show a complete readout (with 'all' command).

nsb002 commented 5 years ago

The car works well. In fact, I already went three times at the dealer's mechanic garage to have this fault erased, the problem is that it costs 100$ each time, so I would be happy to have a free alternative to erase this kind of fault code. Every time it's the same story: the 12V battery died due to very low temperature and because I have a lot of electronics powered at all time (Arduino, Sonoff, Cell Phone for WiFi and Android Radio). I also already replaced the battery less than a year ago. Is there a way to clear the fault codes with Arduino code and the same CANBUS interface? This fault code is really annoying because I cannot use the dashboard controls to set the time or the departure time.

What I already tried to fix it:

'all' command readout:

Reading data....................OK
-----------------------------------------
Time [hh:mm]: 03:24, ODO : 103399 km
-----------------------------------------
Battery Status : OK

Battery Production [Y/M/D]: 2014/2/3
Battery-FAT date [Y/M/D]: 2014/2/3
Rev.[Y/WK/PL] HW:2013/29/0, SW:2014/18/0
-----------------------------------------
SOC : 43.0 %, realSOC: 62.5 %
HV : 321.1 V, -41.44 A, -13.31 kW
LV : 14.9 V
-----------------------------------------
CV mean : 3441 mV, dV = 128 mV
CV min : 3339 mV
CV max : 3467 mV
OCVtimer: 62593 s
-----------------------------------------
Last measurement : 3 day(s)
Measurement estimation: 0.627
Actual estimation : 0.560
CAP mean: 17049 As/10, 47.4 Ah
CAP min : 14755 As/10, 41.0 Ah
CAP max : 18139 As/10, 50.4 Ah
-----------------------------------------
HV contactor state ON, low current: 0 s
Cycles left : 283523
of max. cycles: 300000
DC isolation : 65534 kOhm, OK
-----------------------------------------
Temperatures Battery-Unit /degC: 
module 1: 1.1, 7.8, 3.1
module 2: 2.1, 7.9, 3.7
module 3: 0.8, 7.7, 2.4
mean : 4.1, min : 0.8, max : 7.9
coolant : -6.3
-----------------------------------------
# ;mV ;As/10
01;3340;12952
02;3406;16074
03;3419;16532
04;3427;16802
05;3436;17081
06;3438;17175
07;3442;17336
08;3445;17207
09;3429;17175
10;3450;17434
11;3453;17401
12;3455;17533
13;3454;17434
14;3456;17533
15;3456;17401
16;3458;17533
17;3457;17434
18;3459;17336
19;3456;17368
20;3456;17401
21;3455;17467
22;3454;17336
23;3451;17336
24;3451;17368
25;3446;17271
26;3444;17239
27;3441;17018
28;3438;17175
29;3434;17049
30;3418;16415
31;3369;14340
32;3379;16018
33;3420;16956
34;3429;16987
35;3438;17144
36;3445;17271
37;3449;17239
38;3453;17336
39;3453;17368
40;3458;17336
41;3461;17368
42;3463;17401
43;3465;17368
44;3463;17401
45;3463;17336
46;3466;17467
47;3464;17336
48;3466;17336
49;3465;17336
50;3466;17304
51;3464;17304
52;3463;17336
53;3464;17336
54;3462;17336
55;3460;17239
56;3458;17112
57;3455;17081
58;3455;17434
59;3450;17304
60;3444;17175
61;3433;16987
62;3392;16474
63;3360;14871
64;3405;16532
65;3420;16956
66;3428;17239
67;3430;17271
68;3437;17467
69;3440;17434
70;3437;17271
71;3440;17207
72;3444;17336
73;3445;17271
74;3450;17336
75;3449;17336
76;3450;17271
77;3451;17336
78;3452;17304
79;3452;17401
80;3451;17401
81;3453;17239
82;3450;17271
83;3451;17144
84;3451;17304
85;3449;17304
86;3446;17175
87;3444;17271
88;3442;17112
89;3436;17049
90;3433;16987
91;3425;16894
92;3423;17207
93;3365;14908
-----------------------------------------
Individual Cell Statistics:
-----------------------------------------
CV mean : 3442 mV, dV= 126 mV, s= 23.95 mV
CV min : 3340 mV, # 1
CV max : 3466 mV, # 46
-----------------------------------------
CAP mean: 17083 As/10, 47.5 Ah
CAP min : 12952 As/10, 36.0 Ah, # 1
CAP max : 17533 As/10, 48.7 Ah, # 12
-----------------------------------------
Voltage Distribution (dV= 126 mV):
*------------------->---------[===|=]---*
3340 06 > [3436; 3450; 3456] < 00 3466
min [p25; median; p75] max
-----------------------------------------
Reading data....OK
-----------------------------------------
Status OBL Charger-Unit: 
User selected : 16 A
Cable maximum : 204 A
AC L1: 0.0 V, 0.0 A
DC HV: 0.0 V, 0.0 A
DC LV: 14.9 V
-----------------------------------------
Temperatures Charger-Unit /degC: 
Reported : NA
Cooling plate : NA
Inlet socket : NA
-----------------------------------------
Reading data.OK
-----------------------------------------
Status Cooling- and Subsystems: 
Temperature : -14.5 degC
Cooling fan : 0.0 %
Cooling pump : 57.3 %, -12 degC
: 14.4 V, 1.2 A
OTR:
Cooling fan : 204 h
Cooling pump : 10317 h
Battery heater: 72 h, OFF
Vaccum pump : 65.728 h
Pressure 1, 2 : -713 mbar, -713 mbar
-----------------------------------------
CMD >>
minorukurata commented 5 years ago

Hi I also have my smart fortwo ED 2014 with before that with BMS error P18051c I already fix the issue with softelectronic and charged the HV battery but right now Icant turn on the car

eading data....................OK

Battery VIN: WMEEJ9AA2EK736711 Time [hh:mm]: 12:00, ODO : 11289 km

Battery Status : FAULT

Battery Production [Y/M/D]: 2013/8/19 Battery-FAT date [Y/M/D]: 2013/8/19 Rev.[Y/WK/PL] HW:2013/29/0, SW:2013/29/1

SOC : 84.5 %, realSOC: 81.5 % HV : 369.1 V, -1024.00 A, -10.24 kW LV : 12.1 V

CV mean : 3968 mV, dV = 272 mV CV min : 3870 mV CV max : 4142 mV OCVtimer: 1075 s

Last measurement : 254 day(s) Measurement estimation: 0.792 Actual estimation : 0.083 CAP mean: 18333 As/10, 50.9 Ah CAP min : 18514 As/10, 51.4 Ah CAP max : 18777 As/10, 52.2 Ah

HV contactor state OFF, for: 0 s Cycles left : 296478 of max. cycles: 300000 DC isolation : 14060 kOhm, OK

Temperatures Battery-Unit /degC: module 1: 33.3, 32.9, 34.5 module 2: 33.5, 32.9, 33.5 module 3: 34.4, 33.3, 34.1 mean : 33.6, min : 32.9, max : 34.5 coolant : 36.0

;mV ;As/10

01;4109;18212 02;3877;18152 03;4077;18212 04;3879;18182 05;4030;18122 06;3879;18152 07;4118;18092 08;3879;18062 09;4021;18062 10;3880;18242 11;4028;18182 12;3878;18152 13;4023;18092 14;3877;18182 15;4137;18092 16;3880;18032 17;4077;18152 18;3880;18212 19;4087;18152 20;3880;18212 21;4026;18242 22;3873;18212 23;4146;18212 24;3873;18212 25;4064;18333 26;3867;18182 27;4030;18242 28;3879;18242 29;4017;18272 30;3874;18092 31;4018;18182 32;4024;18182 33;3873;18062 34;4027;18212 35;3867;18122 36;4052;18122 37;3869;18122 38;4084;18182 39;3881;18092 40;3977;18152 41;3877;18062 42;4005;18062 43;3879;18152 44;4019;18032 45;3880;18032 46;4010;18032 47;3879;18092 48;4134;18152 49;3878;18182 50;4034;18152 51;3878;18092 52;4028;18122 53;3878;18062 54;4065;18032 55;3877;18032 56;4034;18032 57;3875;18032 58;4043;18062 59;3872;18032 60;4025;18062 61;3877;18062 62;4038;18003 63;4048;18242 64;3881;18182 65;4081;18122 66;3884;18242 67;4018;18303 68;3884;18182 69;4030;18303 70;3886;18303 71;4030;18242 72;3885;18272 73;4140;18272 74;3883;18242 75;4046;18242 76;3882;18212 77;4025;18032 78;3877;18092 79;4066;18032 80;3878;18303 81;4043;18182 82;3880;18092 83;4110;18092 84;3879;18092 85;4048;18062 86;3876;18272 87;4080;18242 88;3880;18333 89;4095;18333 90;3880;18272 91;4045;18152 92;3877;18092 93;4028;18092

Individual Cell Statistics:

CV mean : 3968 mV, dV= 279 mV, s= 91.89 mV CV min : 3867 mV, # 26 CV max : 4146 mV, # 23

CAP mean: 18154 As/10, 50.4 Ah CAP min : 18003 As/10, 50.0 Ah, # 62 CAP max : 18333 As/10, 50.9 Ah, # 25

Voltage Distribution (dV= 279 mV): [==================|====]-------------- 3867 00 > [3879; 4007; 4043] < 00 4146 min [p25; median; p75] max

Reading data....OK

Status OBL Charger-Unit: User selected : 32 A Cable maximum : 204 A AC L1: 0.0 V, 0.0 A DC HV: 0.0 V, 0.0 A DC LV: 12.3 V

Temperatures Charger-Unit /degC: Reported : NA Cooling plate : NA Inlet socket : NA

Reading data.OK

Status Cooling- and Subsystems: Temperature : 38.2 degC Cooling fan : 0.0 % Cooling pump : 80.0 %, 40 degC : 11.9 V, 0.2 A OTR: Cooling fan : 14 h Cooling pump : 1838 h Battery heater: 0 h, OFF Vaccum pump : 21.797 h Pressure 1, 2 : -668 mbar, -665 mbar

CMD >>

also have some error

I didt try yet MB star scanner only with Launch x431 pro

screenshot_20190201-093406_diagzone pro

I cant find information about P180D1D and the other one. please if @MyLab-odyssey @vioilio vioiliocan give me a hand regards

vioilio commented 5 years ago

Hi everyone. Its been a while since my last time here. I have been extremely busy the last couple of months and have not had a chance to give any updates. Charging my battery was success! The car is currently getting used on a dally basis and no problems so far. To answer some of the questions here: All users above that asked for help with "HV Workshop Message". You must have Star Diag Mercedes diagnostic system. You must clear all errors and you must run software restart on all modules. If both of the batteries are charged this will take care of any residual problems after charging the HV battery. It is the same for user "minorukurata". Clear all error codes with Star DAS and restart the software on all modules. If both of the batteries are charged and you do not have error code P18051c you should be able to start and drive your car.

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

Thanks @vioilio for answering i will try tomorrow. Both batteries are charged will keep update

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

@MyLab-odyssey question about battery status?

in the code reads BMS.SOH == 0 ok but fault == 0xFF can you share more details im trying to fix a smart fortwo with P18051c fixed but showing some errors still in N82/2

vioilio commented 5 years ago

Have you scan the car with Star Das?

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

today I will, only have Launch X431 Pro with smart 17.90 has the electric version updated, was trying if it erase the dtc airbag or some trouble it does, but no with N82/2 HV battery

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

I contacted with a mechanic that he has will come here to see, I doubt, let see, Im guessing something wrong inside the HV

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

20190204_190904 @vioilio this errors shown me

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

Sensor A has an invalid signal @vioilio

fxmatar commented 5 years ago

Any updates did you find a way to solve this issue about sensor A code, as I’m facing the same. Can any help please. @MyLab-odyssey @minorukurata

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

hi @fxmatar Im working on I found a supple of sensor A was having a 1 o 2 flex cutted, I got from a salvage vehicle from a friend in oregon, his is sending my to Paraguay, but the BMS bricked again with P18051c, I sent again to fix it. mine was

minorukurata commented 5 years ago

@vioilio did your car get the P18051c error DTC?