Tana58
Handwired 58 key wireless split keyboard powered by ZMK
Interesting files:
- What passes for a wiring diagram in /images
- STL files for 3d printing in /stls (There's only the left side, so you'll want to print a mirrored set)
- Freecad files if you wish to modify this for yourself, or for use with other components
Firmware for this board can be found here
BOM:
- 2x Nice!Nano controllers or compatible. I used some Supermini NRF52840 Nice!Nano compatibles from aliexpress. I have since replaced them with proper Nice!Nanos however for better battery life and purchased them from splitkb.com.
- 2x Mill Max low profile sockets (Mill Max 315-43-112-41-003000) with pins (Mill Max 3320-0-00-15-00-00-03-0). I used these from splitkb.com
- 2x PCB grid boards that you don't mind chopping to size and drilling a hole through to mount on the controller bracket. I used some like this from Amazon and scored them carefully with a stanely knife before breaking them.
- 58x MX Switches
- 58x MX Keycaps. I used DSA caps from spkeyboards.com
- 58x THT signal diodes. I used these from splitkb.com (1N4148 Signal Diode)
- 2x Reset switches. I used these from splitkb.com (SKHLLCA010). These were glued in to the support bracket in the model
- 2x power switches.
I repurposed some three position ON-OFF-ON (SS 25539 N) switches for this from Reichelt. The 3d model is set such that the second on position is physically blocked so that it acts only as a two position switch. You could follow this part, or update the bracket it's glued into in the freecad model for whatever you'd rather use.
- 22x M2 threaded heat set inserts
- 22x M2x8 screws
- 2x 3.7v Lithium Polymer batteries with JST connector. I used some small 150mah ones from Kiwi Electronics. I would say that there is a lot of room in the keyboard though due to the tenting, so you could easily fit 1200mah batteries (or larger) inside.
- 2x Male JST-PH2.0 connectors. Do ensure the wire colours match the battery connectors before using any you buy. I bought some off Amazon and the connectors originally connected red to black and black to red...
Of course ALWAYS check the battery with a multimeter before connecting it to ensure the polarity is as expected.