Some 3D printers have controller boards buried deep within their structure so they are not accessible without dismantling the entire printer. This is fine if you are using the Arduino IDE firmware update mechanism via USB as it all worked automatically. However with the Monster8 board if you want to use STM32CubeProgrammer via the USB C interface this requires putting the board into boot0 mode by physically pressing the boot0 pushbutton. The modification described below replaces the pushbutton with a 2 pin header allowing a button to be positioned where it is easily accessible.
Start with a standard 3x2 pin right-angled male header and remove all the metal pins. Then cut down two of the longer right angled pins such that their length matches the SMD pads for the pushbutton. Trim the bottom edges of the header plastic to ensure it sits flush to the board when the pins are re-inserted for mechanical stability. Then pre-tin the pins ready for mounting on the board, unsolder the pushbutton, re-tin the SMD pads and then solder the new header in place. :o)
Using a standard soldering iron instead of a hot air gun avoids disturbing any nearby SMD components.
Some 3D printers have controller boards buried deep within their structure so they are not accessible without dismantling the entire printer. This is fine if you are using the Arduino IDE firmware update mechanism via USB as it all worked automatically. However with the Monster8 board if you want to use STM32CubeProgrammer via the USB C interface this requires putting the board into boot0 mode by physically pressing the boot0 pushbutton. The modification described below replaces the pushbutton with a 2 pin header allowing a button to be positioned where it is easily accessible.
Start with a standard 3x2 pin right-angled male header and remove all the metal pins. Then cut down two of the longer right angled pins such that their length matches the SMD pads for the pushbutton. Trim the bottom edges of the header plastic to ensure it sits flush to the board when the pins are re-inserted for mechanical stability. Then pre-tin the pins ready for mounting on the board, unsolder the pushbutton, re-tin the SMD pads and then solder the new header in place. :o) Using a standard soldering iron instead of a hot air gun avoids disturbing any nearby SMD components.